Austrian chain weaving. Italian - traditional weaving with modern processing

A gold chain is one of the most popular types of jewelry made from precious metals. Since ancient times, it has been a sign of prosperity, as well as power and good wealth. This jewel Worn either alone or in combination with a pendant or pendant.

In our blog we will discuss the most famous types of gold chain weaving, and also select 5 of the most durable types of weaving.

Gold chains have always been very popular, because a correctly selected necklace will not only complement the image, but also emphasize a person’s status. As practice shows, with the onset of spring, the demand for handmade items increases. This is explained primarily by the fact that in the warm season we expose our necks, on which gold jewelry - chains - sparkle elegantly and play in the sun.

Thin, neat women's chains for a pendant or cross, massive gold men's chains, or long jewelry for girls' necks - what is most often ordered from our Centaurus workshop? Surprisingly, it is thick, massive men's chains. This decoration emphasizes the respectable status of the stronger sex and always goes well with any style of clothing. It is worth noting that gold products are a profitable investment, because the price of precious metals only increases over time!

Everyone loves jewelry, but if a woman has 5 rings and 10 pairs of earrings and 1-2 gold chains, then in the arsenal of a real man there are at least three or even more chains made of yellow and white gold of varying thicknesses, as well as types weaving. The latter will be discussed below.

So, there are many types of weaving gold chains, but we will look at the most popular 10, and you will choose the one that is perfect for you!

TOP 10 popular weaves of gold chains:

Anchor weaving
Cardinal
Rollo (Chopard)
Fox's tail
Armor weaving
Weaving chamomile (rose)
Cartier weave
Weaving a spikelet (Byzantine weaving)
Bismarck
Triple weaving (harness)

1. Anchor weaving.

Floor:
Weave strength: durable
Difficulty of doing the job: medium difficulty

Anchor weaving is a fairly common type, which is most often used in thin chains for pendants or crosses. This weaving is more typical for women's and children's chains. The essence of this type of weaving is to make identical gold links of an oval or other shape, which are then connected perpendicularly to each other, thereby forming a chain that looks like a real anchor chain. This type of weaving gold chains also has its own subtypes, which you can see in the photo below:

Subtypes of anchor weaving:

A sea anchor, or a sea chain - if there is a reinforcing bridge in the golden link.
Double anchor – double oval-shaped gold rings are used.
Rollo (belzer) - the links are not oval, but even round in shape. By the way, this type of weaving has another name - “Chopard”, in honor of the fashion house Chopard, which actively uses and popularizes this type of knitting of gold chains.
Garibaldi or double rollo - 2 links are connected. This type of gold chain weaving received this name in honor of the heroes of Italy - the spouses Giuseppe and Anita Garibaldi, who were always together.
Venetian weaving - the links have a thin square or rectangular shape. Depending on the number of gold links woven into one block, the Venetian can be double, triple, etc.
Cord weaving involves connecting several links at once, jumping over 2-3 links. Gold chains made of cord weaving have a twisted shape.

2. Bismarck.

Floor: unisex (male, female)
Weave strength: very durable
Difficulty of doing the job: highest difficulty

Bismarck is one of the strongest types of gold chain weaving. Very labor-intensive work, but it's worth it. The aristocratic appearance of the gold chain only favorably emphasizes the wealthy appearance of its owner. The weight of such a chain may vary depending on the wishes of the customer. After all, in any size, a gold chain made with Bismarck weaving looks very good!

The principle of weaving consists of a fantasy connection of links, which in turn consist of several multidirectional “rings”. Bismarck is the strongest type of weaving, so this chain can be worn without removing it.

A little history. Just a few hundred years ago, such weaving was considered truly feminine, and chains made in this style were thin and long. Over time, thanks to its excellent strength, Bismarck chain weaving began to be used in men's jewelry. Only the gold chains were more massive and thick. In the 90s, every “new Russian” wore a heavy gold chain weighing 150-200 grams, thereby indicating the wealth and high status of its owner.

Subtypes of Bismarck weaving:

The semi-volume bismarck is characterized by the fact that the thickness of the link is the same or slightly greater than the width of the gold chain.
Python (American, Cardinal, Pharaoh) - characterized by elegant openwork weaving. Looking for an inexpensive, beautiful and durable gold chain? This type of weaving is ideal for you. Below we will look in more detail at the weaving of Cardinal gold chains.
Triple - the golden link consists of three turns in a spiral, whereas in the classic Bismarck there are only two.
Arabic Bismarck resembles Arabic letters (calico)
Flat is a classic version of weaving, where the link has a double curl in a spiral. The link thickness does not exceed half the width of the chain.
The Royal Bismarck will surprise you with its exquisite shape, as well as its ornate type of weaving. These gold chains are suitable for both men and women.

Men's chain "Bismarck flat"

3. Cardinal

Floor: unisex (male, female)
Weave strength: very durable
Difficulty of doing the job: high complexity

Bismarck Cardinal has many more names - American, Python, Pharaoh. Gold chains made with this type of weaving are very popular. Despite its elegant and airy appearance, this decoration is very durable and can be worn daily without taking it off. The minimum weight of jewelry is only 15 grams. Therefore, such a gold chain can be ordered on a limited budget. Want to save money? Make custom jewelry from your own metal (gold, platinum), thereby you only pay for the work of the jeweler.

Thin gold chains made with Cardinal weave go well with pendants, crosses and amulet, which are worn under clothing without being revealed to the public. But thicker chains can be worn without additional accessories.

4. Fox tail

Floor: male
Weave strength: durable
Difficulty of doing the job: medium difficulty

Fox tail (Byzantine or royal weave) is used to make massive thick gold chains. This weaving method involves using ring links of the same type and size. Thanks to the fancy connection, such a chain shimmers very beautifully under sun rays. Neck jewelry made with fox tail weaving is also particularly dense and durable, chic in appearance and exquisitely beautiful. Such chains are preferred mainly by men. Fox tail looks great in any gold color, which is why many people choose it.

5. Rollo.

Floor: unisex (men's, women's, children's)
Product strength: durable
Difficulty of doing the job: medium difficulty

This anchor type of weaving of gold chains is known in wide circles as Belzer, or Chopard, in honor of the fashion house Chopard. Jewelry made with this type of weaving can be worn individually or with a pendant or pendant. The links have an even round shape and are connected perpendicularly. Both men and women prefer such gold chains.

6. Armor weaving.

Floor: unisex (male, female)
Weave strength: very durable
Difficulty of doing the job: high difficulty

Armor weaving is very popular in the manufacture of chains. If in the anchor weaving of chains the links were located perpendicular to each other, then in the armor weaving - in the same plane. Thanks to this method, the gold chain has a smooth surface and looks like a single whole. Externally, the method of placing the links resembles a chain mail shell, which is where the name of this method of weaving a gold chain comes from. Such jewelry is also highly durable.

There are the following types of armor weaving:

Nonna – a diamond cut is applied on both sides of the gold chain, thanks to which this decoration sparkles delightfully under the sun’s rays. By the way, this is not a woman’s name, but from Italian maglia della nonna - grandmother’s weaving. Just as beautiful, durable and smooth =)
Figaro is also known as Cartier due to its widespread use by the famous fashion house. Like “Figaro here, Figaro there,” the shapes of the links vary and alternate. Below we will take a closer look at Cartier weaving.
Armor parallel - two round gold links are used at once, which are intertwined together.
Love – links that resemble hearts are used. These gold chains are light and airy. Do you want to buy jewelry for your beloved? We advise you to pay attention to this type of weaving of a women's gold chain.
Snail (paperclip) - links twisted into a spiral, when connected, they look like a snail shell.

7. Cartier weaving.

Floor: unisex (male, female)
Product strength: durable
Difficulty of doing the job: medium difficulty

Cartier is highly valued by lovers of unusual jewelry. This type of armored weaving of gold chains is also called Figaro. The main feature is the use of round and oval links that are connected to each other in the same plane. Most often, in a classic Cartier chain, 3 round links alternate with 1 oblong link. The name or article indicates the number of short and long links in the form (3+1 or 2+1).
This piece of jewelry looks great in any length, either as an individual piece or in combination with a pendant.

8. Weaving a spikelet.

Floor: unisex (male, female)
Weave strength: very durable
Difficulty of doing the job: high complexity

Spikelet weaving (Byzantine weaving) is very similar to Fox tail, but the difference is that the links are directed in the same direction. The chain, made of Byzantine weaving, looks like a spike of wheat. This gold decoration very popular in England. The gold chains of Kolosok are quite strong and are worn well every day. By the way, they are difficult to confuse, which is a definite advantage when choosing the type of weaving of gold chains!

This is a wonderful birthday gift or a nice purchase that will add to your favorite accessories. But the variety of weaves of these products makes your eyes widen. And how to choose among them a piece of jewelry that will please the eye and last for many years?

What types of chain weaving are there?

The types of weaving often depend on the manufacturing method: handmade, machine knitting or stamping. Thanks to progress, the links of chains made using the machine can reach a thickness of up to 0.2 mm. But the possibilities of machines are not limitless. Certain types of weaving (if we are talking about “heavy” products containing more than 6 grams of gold) are made by hand by jewelry craftsmen. Such chains are considered the most reliable. But it is worth noting that this directly depends on the experience of the master. Bracelets and chains are made by craftsmen both in small workshops and in large production facilities.

Let's take a closer look at popular weavings and their features.

Anchor weaving

The simple weaving got its name due to its resemblance to the chain to which the anchor is attached on sea vessels. The classic version of the chain is characterized by the fact that each link has the shape of an oval.

Chains made using the technique are suitable for men and women. These are quite durable products on which you can hang pendants and crosses.

Anchor weaving has its own subspecies, among which we will highlight Venetian.

Venetian weave

Unlike the classic anchor weave, in the “Venetian” the links are not oval-shaped, but square or rectangular. One block can consist of two, three or more links.

Armor weaving

If in anchor weaving the links are attached crosswise, then in armor weaving they are in the same plane. These chains are smooth, and the links smoothly transition from one to another, creating the appearance of a single whole.

This weaving is highly durable and versatile, suitable for women and men. But children's jewelry is not made using this technique. Armor weaving has many subtypes: Mona Lisa, Love, Cartier, Singapore and others.

Weaving Mona Lisa

A delicate and elegant chain consists of large rings into which small ones are soldered. This makes the decoration beautiful and durable. Externally, the weaving resembles the surface of chain mail or lace. Jewelry made in this way is worn independently without a pendant.

Weaving Love (love)

Heart-shaped link - main feature weaving. Such chains are airy and light. Women's gold chains look especially beautiful when made with this weave. This chain can be complemented with a pendant.

Cartier weave

Its second name is Figaro. Such chains look unusual and arouse interest among extraordinary individuals. The difference between this weaving is the connection of the links different shapes: round and oval. Their order may vary. For example, three short links and one long link, or 2+1. Because of such chaos, weaving received the popular name “figaro”.

Weaving Singapore

Originally connected links create an exquisite weave with a luxurious shine. This is achieved due to the fact that the links are twisted in a spiral. And despite the delicacy of the product, such weaving is considered durable and harmonizes with pendants.

Weaving Snake

A smooth cord with tightly fitting links resembling the scales of a snake is called a snake. This effect is achieved due to the close fit of the polished links to each other. The weave is suitable for chains with pendants or bracelets with charms.

Bismarck weave

Bismarck received the title of the most reliable weaving. One section has four links connected in pairs. A chain made in this style sits securely on the hand and relieves the owner of the jewelry from the fear that it will break and get lost.

Trismark weave

Trismarck is one of the subspecies of Bismarck. Its feature is a larger number of links in one section - three pairs. Chains made in this weave serve as separate jewelry. It makes no sense to complement them with pendants - the chain is usually massive and it is impossible to put a pendant on it.

Weaving Rhombus

Diamond-shaped links located inside each other give the products a sophisticated, delicate look. There are three subtypes of this weaving: single, double and triple. Weaving is suitable for people of any gender and age. Therefore, consultants in a jewelry store are often asked about them.

Weave Seagull

Weaving chains for men is called Chaika or Double Stream. Large links fit very tightly to each other, and create the appearance of a heavy, brutal decoration. Women often choose products with such weaving as gifts for men. It is considered one of the original handmade weaves.

Spig's Weave

Jewelry made using this technique has an interesting texture, so it can be complemented with a pendant or acts as an independent decoration. However, you need to choose a pendant carefully. Simple easy decoration will not work. It will be lost against the background of a delicate but original chain. But a large pendant with an interesting design will sparkle with all its colors.

Fantasy weaving

One type of weaving cannot be classified under this category. This is a general name for those chains and bracelets that are made in a unique way. For example, a link of an original shape, an unusual combination of elements, or different metals.

Where to buy a gold chain?

You will find a wide variety of gold chains and reliable types of silver chain weaving in our assortment. jewelry factory"Golden age". Handmade and machine-made chains can be ordered in the online store at competitive prices. There are discounts on jewelry every month. Buy gold chains from to please yourself or your loved ones with the perfect gift.

“Italian” weaving consists of chains and bracelets that are made using a special technique. They are made manually as well as mechanically. Chains and bracelets are famous for their durability and uniqueness, suitable for any outfits and suits. They are an alternative to Bismarck weaving.

Weaving "Italian"

What does it look like?

An “Italian” bracelet or chain is a weave that goes with any clothing. Jewelry of this type is heavy and can be decorated with a pendant or pendant.

What makes it unique:

Suitable for everyday wear and more.
Has durability.
Has a unique design.

Italian jewelry design is popular. A chain of such weaving does not deform, is worn for a long time, and is made of the following metals:

gold;
silver;
brass.

The chain has a structure of several links, due to this the decoration is heavy and does not have a low cost. Most often, chains and bracelets of this design are made of 585 gold or silver.

Brass is also suitable for such weaving, but the cost of such decoration will be significantly lower than products made from precious metals.

This decoration is suitable for both men and women; The length of the chain is determined individually at the request of the buyer.

“Italian” weaving is complex; its production requires thick wire made of gold or silver. If the work is done manually, the cost of the product may be higher. Mechanical production is cheaper, but when purchasing jewelry, it is worth studying all the pros and cons of hand-made and machine-made.

Silver bracelet made with Italian weave

Advantages and disadvantages

Italy is a country strong men And passionate women. Therefore, a chain with this name has certain specifics:

Quite massive.
It is difficult to choose a pendant or pendant.
The decoration is quite heavy.

It is difficult to imagine such a product on the neck of a fragile girl; it would be more suitable for a woman mature age. It looks quite respectable and immediately speaks of the status and position of the owner or owner.

Men often purchase such products because they look impressive in addition to any style.

The “Italian” chain fits perfectly under evening dresses, many stylists recommend this weave as an addition to long dress. In this case, there is no need to select a pendant or pendant for the chain.

Jewelry is heavy, so jewelers provide them with a reliable lock - this is another plus of the “Italian”. In addition, the links do not deform; they fit tightly to each other; if the decoration was made by hand, then its minimum weight is 6 grams.

There are products that are classified as women's or men's, for example, “Bismarck” is more often chosen by men. The product is massive, its weight and appearance are not entirely suitable for women and girls.

“Italian” is a weaving of several links. The decoration can be of any length, and it is not gender specific. Not produced specifically for women or men. If desired, a man can purchase the product and give it to his business partner or girlfriend.

How to choose?

Jewelry should be chosen based on the basic rules:

the metal must have a uniform color;
be durable in appearance;
There should be no stains or damage on the surface of the gold.

Jewelry made from gold has a characteristic shine. When choosing, you should pay attention not only to the sample, but also to appearance decorations. Gold is a metal that is not subject to corrosion, so chains made from this material will last a long time.

Silver jewelry is not as durable and the metal can oxidize due to contact with air or water. If the alloy contains many impurities, the silver may change color or become coated with a film.

Brass is a metal that is not subject to corrosion, but it is not classified as precious metals. Therefore, its cost is quite affordable.

A gold chain or bracelet is a great gift to give to a colleague, friend or wife. You can choose jewelry based on a person’s taste and preference. "Italian" is a good choice, which is suitable for both men and women, will complement any outfit.

Christina Tsurtsumiya

2015-07-14

The chain is the most versatile and functional product, which, thanks to the skill of specialists, has become a complete jewelry. It is worn like independent accessory, complemented with a pendant, body icon or cross.

Now they offer us a huge number of chains: short and elongated, wide and narrow, classic and decorative, men's and women's, gold and silver, not to mention dozens various types weaving. How to choose a chain that is right for you? We invite you to figure this out together.

Chain weaving technologies

Chains are made in several ways - by hand, machine knitting or stamping.

Machine weaving is an automated technology using special equipment. The use of machines allows you to create jewelry with links up to 0.2 mm thick.

Despite Newest technologies, some types of weaving can only be done by hand. And here you can’t do without specialists—chain tyers. The minimum weight of a hand-woven chain is about 6 grams, and its quality largely depends on the skill of the jeweler.

This is really painstaking and time-consuming work. First you need to stretch the gold or silver wire, wind it on the prepared base and cut the resulting spiral into rings of the same size. The chain maker manually fastens the links using pliers, “linking” the pattern, which involves the type of weaving. To prevent the rings from falling apart, all the links are soldered. The resulting chain is clamped between special shafts so that the links become flat.

Stamped chains are made from ready-made links - stamps. At the same time, they are not soldered together, but threaded into each other. As a rule, such jewelry is less durable, easily twisted and deformed.

Solid or hollow: what's the difference?

All chains, regardless of the type of weaving, are divided into solid and hollow.

A distinctive feature of hollow chains is the combination of volume and lightness. The wire from which the decoration is woven is hollow inside, so despite the external thickness of the links, hollow chains have little weight. Most often they are made using complex decorative types of weaving and look quite solid. The advantage of such chains is their affordable price, which is determined by the weight of the product.

Solid chains are much heavier than hollow ones, which affects the cost of the jewelry. However, they are very comfortable for everyday wear, resistant to deformation and external influences and therefore durable. If the links are damaged, a specialist can easily solder the product and restore its original appearance.

Types of chain weaving

There are three basic technologies for knitting chains: “Anchor”, “Pantsirnaya” and “Bismarck”. Over time, they received so many variations that today there are more than 50 types of weaving: from the simplest to the most intricate with links of a complex configuration. Each weave has a special name and can be made in either gold or silver.

It’s easy to guess that “Anchor” weaving got its name due to its resemblance to the weaving of a real anchor chain. It is simple and uncomplicated. IN classic version weaving, each link has an oval shape.

Links can consist of either one or two “rings”. Therefore, the “Double Anchor” technology is also highlighted.

"Anchor" weaving with links round shape known as "Rollo". At one time, this type of knitting became popular thanks to the fashion house Chopard, so it has a second name - “Chopard”.

Garibaldi weave is very similar to Rollo. The links of these chains have a round forked shape. It is believed that the knitting was named in honor of the spouses Giuseppe and Anita Garibaldi - folk heroes of the liberation movement of Italy, who were very friendly and shared each other’s views.

Fantasy types of “Anchor” weaving also include “Aurora” and “Hawaiian”.

“Shell” technology has become the basis for creating various types of decorative weaving. Its distinctive feature is that the flat links, polished on both sides, are not attached perpendicular to each other, but as if in the same plane. The technology, characterized by its high strength, got its name due to its resemblance to chain mail links.

Weaving can be single, double or triple, depending on the number of rings connected. A “shell” knit with diamond-shaped links is called “Diamond” (it can also be double or triple).

“Nonna” is one of the most elegant varieties of armor weaving. Thanks to the diamond edge applied on both sides, such chains shine more in the light. Despite the external sophistication, these jewelry are very durable. Oddly enough, the name of the weaving has nothing to do with female name. Nonna is short for the Italian maglia della nonna, which means "grandmother's weaving."

An equally spectacular variety of armor knitting is “Figaro”, named after the famous comedy hero Beaumarchais, who was distinguished by his changeable temperament. Just like Figaro, weaving is characterized by “inconstancy” - links of different shapes, short and long, alternate in the chain. The most common combinations are from 1:1 to 1:5. Figaro chains gained popularity thanks to the jewelry house Cartier, and gradually became known as Cartier.

Often chains get their names due to the special shape of the links. Thus, the “rings” reminiscent of hearts gave the name to the romantic and delicate weaving “Love”. Thanks to the links twisted into a spiral, the “Snail” weave appeared (it is also called “Clip” for the similarity of the “rings” with the same name stationery), and similar to beautiful flower divisions gave the chain the name "Rose".

A smooth, snake-like jewelry cord with tightly fitting links is known as a “Snake.” This weaving is comfortable for everyday wear, so it is often used not only in the manufacture of chains, but also bracelets for pendants and charms.

The most popular twisted weaves are the rope-like “Korda” and the “Singapore” shimmering in the sun. Such chains are usually worn by women. These decorations are elegant and at the same time reliable in use.

But the truly masculine type of weaving in Russia is considered “Bismarck”. Named, according to one version, in honor of the first Chancellor of the German Empire, Otto von Bismarck, he is also known as "Kaiser" or "Cardinal". This weaving is one of the most complex and is therefore often done by hand. Fantasy knitting consists of links, which in turn consist of several multidirectional “rings”. The weave can be double, triple or quadruple, making it one of the strongest. Due to its thickness and volume, one of the varieties of “Bismarck” was called “Python”.

An undeniable trend is the so-called fantasy chains. These decorations are distinguished by unusual types of weaving, a combination of different shades of metals, multi-layering and the inclusion of decorative “links”. Fantasy chains resemble more necklace or beads and are a completely independent decoration that can be worn without a pendant.

Which weave to choose?

Of course, first of all it is a matter of taste. However, some types of chains are traditionally classified as women's, men's or universal. Thus, the massive and solid “Bismarck” is most often preferred by representatives of the stronger sex, and the graceful “Nonna”, “Singapore”, “Rose”, “Love” and a number of other varieties are considered truly feminine. A typical unisex weaving option is “Anchor”.

For children, the most optimal are densely knitted chains, for example, “Snake”, as well as jewelry cords made of rubber or leather.

Choosing the chain length

One of the important criteria when choosing a chain is its length. As a rule, the size range consists of models from 40 to 70 cm.

40 cm - the chain is worn close to the neck
50 cm - the chain is worn at the level of the upper part of the neckline
60 cm - the chain is worn at the level of the middle part of the neckline
70 cm - the chain is worn at the level of the lower part of the neckline

It is believed that it is better for women to choose chains up to 50 cm, and for men - longer. Still, there are exceptions to every rule, and when purchasing jewelry, you must try it on.

Types of chain locks

When purchasing a jewelry chain, pay attention to its lock. Firstly, it must be of high quality, since the safety of the jewelry depends on this “minor” detail. And secondly, the lock should be comfortable so that you can fasten and unfasten it yourself, easily putting any pendants on the chain.

As a rule, the type of lock is selected by the jeweler depending on the weight and type of weaving of the item. More massive chains have reliable carabiners, while elegant, thin models are more suitable for a spring lock. Most often, both types of fasteners allow you to easily put pendants with different eye thicknesses on a chain, so they are approximately equivalent to each other in terms of convenience and reliability.

Combination of chain with bracelet and pendant

Many of us wear a chain all the time, so we don’t perceive it as decoration. However, we should not forget that this is an accessory that, like any piece of jewelry, requires special combination rules.

The pendant should match the chain in size, weight (about twice as light) and metal color. Thus, a large pendant or cross on a thin chain will look ridiculous, and at the same time, a pendant that is too small will not fit on a massive item.

Be sure to check that the ear of the pendant fits freely through the lock.

In addition to ordinary chains, there are also chain bracelets that are often worn by both women and men. Ideally, the types of weaving of both products should match, but this does not happen often - jewelry can be given as a gift, purchased in different places, or several years apart. Therefore, it is enough that the bracelet and chain match each other in thickness and metal. For example, the “Nonna” chain will look good with a “Rhombus” or “Love” weave bracelet, and the “Bismarck” chain will look good with a wide “Armor” knit.

Lyudmila 03.12.2019 When choosing chains, I am guided primarily by the strength of the weaving and the convenience of the lock. I don’t like thin twisted chains and spring locks. I prefer wide flat chains middle length, they always go well with large pendants or can be worn as an independent decoration. But you also can’t do without a thin chain in your wardrobe; they are ideal for miniature pendants. Answer

Olesya 11/28/2019

I have three chains. One with a lace-like weave - “snake”, and two with anchor weave. The first chain has a carabiner lock. One of the chains has no lock at all and one has a spring lock. In terms of weaving, I don’t have any special preferences. Each of the weaves is good in its own way. The only thing is, if you plan to wear a chain with a pendant, then it is better to choose a simple weave. But the carabiner lock is much more convenient than the springel lock. Answer