Jumper with boat neck. Knitting a neckline with knitting needles: the simplest methods for beginners, description, video, step-by-step lessons

Knitting a neckline is one of the most important points in the process of creating any sweater, cardigan or dress. A sloppily made, unevenly sewn or stretched neckline will ruin even a beautiful and original product. How to make it frame it, emphasizing only its advantages? We'll talk about this in today's master class! Our advice and step by step instructions will help you quickly and easily learn how to knit and process different kinds neck, and the finished item will always look stylish and neat.

Option one: smooth edge

This type of knitting of the neckline is universal: it is suitable both for products for children and for framing “adult” clothes.

To create it, you should knit all the cast-on loops in seven rows of k. P..

Turn the knitting inside out and carefully, not tightly, using an overlock stitch, sew the edge to the finished product.

From the wrong side of the binding it will look like this:

From the front side, the processing looks perfectly smooth.

Option two: decorative small zigzags

Another simple decorative neckband that even novice craftswomen can do.
To begin with, we make seven rows of l. P..

We do the eighth row as follows: 2 l. p.vm. l..

Then we make a yarn over, and again 2 liters. p.vm., yarn over again, and so on until the end of this row.

Having reached the purl row, all stitches of the previous row should be knitted only purl.

Now we will need another joint. as an auxiliary stitch, we cast on loops from the cast-on row.

Now the binding is bent in half lengthwise along the pattern line. After this, right sp. grab the item from the far back..

We put it on the back, which is in front.

We knit from the front sp. 2 p.vm. facial (crossed and own). This will give us a row of small cloves.

This is how the processing should look from the inside out:

Front side of the neck:

Neck tying: video master class

Option three: tying the neckline with knitting needles using binding

This processing is the most popular and ultimately gives a one-piece neck, so the binding is done with circular knitting needles.

On the side, along the neckline, we collect stitches from the row located under the edge stitch.

At the end, we pull them out with knitting needles from each subsequent stitch, but one row lower - this way we smooth out the neckline.

Having reached the horizontal part, we pull out the loops from the edge loops with knitting needles. It is important to remember that, in order to avoid deformation of the cutout, you should skip every 5th loop.

Having finished casting on stitches along the entire length, we begin knitting in any usual way. You can, for example, do this with a 1 x 1 or 2 x 2 elastic band.

Option four: separate binding (first method)

This treatment is also universal for tying the necks of products for adults and children.
Using regular knitting needles, cast on the number of sts we need, then “rib” for seven rows.

Now we compare two loops - from the binding and from the neckline, and connect them using a free kettel stitch.

We start it from the wrong side, inserting the needle and thread immediately into the second loop, then bring the needle out from top to bottom to the back side through the first loop. Next, at the bottom we bring the needle into the third stitch, and from the front side to the back side into the second and then by analogy, thus connecting the frame and the cutout on both sides.

If we do everything correctly, the processing will look like this:

Neck with kettel stitch: video master class

Option five: separate binding (second method)

Another way to tie the neck separately.

Using knitting needles, cast on the required number of stitches, then use a 2 x 2 elastic band.

Having made 7 rows in this way, we perform double knitting. We remove the first edge with knitting needles without knitting, yarn over, l. p. and so on until the end of the row.

In the next row, remove the purl stitches without knitting, always keeping the thread in front.

Having reached the yarn overs of the previous row, we knit them with facial loops.

Turn the knitting over.

We continue further: reaching the yarn overs, knitting. from l. p., remove all other p. without knitting, always keep the thread in front. Having knitted three more rows, we divide the knitting in half into 2 separate sp. Close the loops on one of the joints. in the manner described above.

We smooth out this part well and the second one, which remains with open stitches for now. We apply the parts one to the other and sew them together with a quilt stitch.

We sew the part with open loops on the wrong side using an overlock stitch.

As a result, we will end up with processing like this:

Option six: double binding

We monitor the smoothness of the lines.

After processing the part and making the seams, we cast on circular sp. loops along the edge: divide the edge into sections of 10 cm each, cast on sts at the rate of “number of sts + 3-4 sts.” Now we alternate 2 liters. p. and 2 i. p. (“elastic band” 2 x 2) or 1 l. p. and 1 and. p. (“elastic band” 1 x 1), the number of p. is a multiple of four or, respectively, two.

Having knitted the frame, we loosely close all the stitches, cut the thread, leaving a long tail. We fold the knitting in half, turn it inward and pin it with pins, sew the closed edge to the neckline.

Option seven: V-neck (first method)

We start by casting on sts, as shown in the photo below.

After casting on the loops, you can start knitting 1x1 elastic.

The height should be selected depending on the type of product.
Upon completion of work, all items should be closed like l. p.. At the cape we sew the edges together using thread and a needle.

Option eight: V-neck (second method)

We cast on the loops in the usual way, starting from the shoulder side.

We knit one row of l in the circle. p., mark the corner p.. Then we continue, alternating l. p. and i. p., there should be faces on the corners. p., if necessary, here you can add or subtract additional p..
In all rows of elastic, we remove the corner and previous stitches together, as with knit stitches. knitting, and knit the next stitch and pull the removed stitches through it..

We make the binding of the width we need and close the loops. We perform angular decreases as when fastening the loops.

Variation tenth: with binding and Italian edge

We start like double binding, but for the elastic band we knit 1 x 1, alternating l. p. and i. P..

In the last 4 pp. take sp. half a size smaller and continue. knit the neckline.
In the first of the last 4 pp. every l. We remove the item, as with facial expressions. elm., and pull the thread past the point..
I. p. as i. P..

In the words r., each and. n. we remove it, as with the inside out. elm., and stretch the thread in front of the stitch..
L. p. like l. P..

Once again repeat. these two r. and fasten the last point. R..

Variation eleven: “boat” treatment with elastic band

We process the neck with an elastic band. A basic diagram of the back is made, on which we draw another line and a finishing strip, 6 cm wide. The front diagram is similar.

We knit the front and back “squares” up to the finishing strip, then knit 1 x 1 or 2 x 2 elastic for 3 cm, changing the sp number. through each 2-3 r. from larger to smaller, now we change sp. from smaller number to larger number at the same intervals. We complete the plank several times. R. auxiliary n. and, without closing the last paragraph. p., remove the knitting from the back..

We do the same with the front part, then we sew them along the shoulders, fold the strip in half, baste it, then the “boat” is sewn with a quilt stitch to the wrong side of the product.

Variation twelfth: “boat” in stocking stitch

A diagram of the product is made, on which we draw a new cutout line and a 2.5 cm strip.
Upon completion of the main work, knit. 2.5 cm stocking stitch, then several. R. auxiliary thread, do not close the st, remove the work from the sp. and make the front part. The basted boat is sewn with a kettel stitch, without passing the needle to the faces. side of the product - grab only half the thickness of the thread.

Closing neck loops: video master class

We will be glad if today's lesson helps you in your work. Even loops!

Every craftswoman knows that the process of knitting a neckline with knitting needles is extremely difficult, but important for the final result of the work. It doesn't matter whether you knit a sweater, a dress or a cardigan. The neckline should always be knitted extremely carefully and precisely calculated. Only in this case will the product look flawless. Today we will get acquainted with one of the many patterns for calculating the neck and consider the process of knitting a boat neck.

Product calculation scheme

To start calculating, we need to know your knitting density. To do this, we knit a small sample and calculate the knitting density.

In our case, 17 loops per 10 rows per segment of 10 by 10 cm. In other words, a segment of 10 cm will include 17 loops and 10 rows.

Next, we determine the width of the neck. In our example, the neck width will be 25 cm. To calculate the number of loops per neck width, multiply 25 * 1.7 and get 42 loops, this is the number of loops that will fit into the neck width. Divide 42 in half and get 21 loops, we do this because we do the calculation for half the neck. The second half is knitted similarly.

We measure the depth of the cutout. In our case it is 7 cm. We count the number of rows per depth. 7*2.8 and we get 20 rows of knit and purl stitches. Accordingly, we knit 10 front rows.

If we visualize the diagram of the neck, divided in half, we will see that it can be divided into 4 segments:

Horizontal;
Gentle;
Inclined;
Vertical.

We distribute the number of loops into 4 segments and get 1 - 6 p, 2 - 5 p, 3 - 5 p, 4 - 5 p. In the first segment we close off 6 loops at a time. We divide the second part into two, i.e. we will close it in two steps (3p*1 and 2p*1). We divide the third part into three parts (2p*2, 1p*1). We divide the fourth part into four segments (4p*1, 1p*1). As a result, we get the following result: close 6p -1 times; 3p - 1 time; 2p - 4 times; 1p - 4 times.

If all the loops have been closed, but there are still unknitted rows, in this case we knit straight, without decreasing.

Note! If you are knitting a product with patterns, for example, braids, then you will have to focus on the pattern. The middle of the neckline must coincide with the pattern, otherwise the product will look out of proportion. We calculate the back neck according to a similar scheme.

A more detailed and clear diagram for calculating the neck is given in the video selection at the end of the article.

For a feminine look

The boat neck option is ideal for lightweight, feminine products. Whether it's a sweater or a dress, such a neckline will definitely emphasize the line of the collarbones and the feminine curve of the shoulders. This collar turns out to be very delicate. Looks great with a long string of pearls.

This option is often preferred by those who are knitting a large item for the first time. Knitting this type of neck does not require any special skills.

Let's take a step-by-step look at knitting a boat neck using a size 44 pullover as an example. With a knitting density of 24 loops x 32 rows (10 x 10 cm).

We cast on 109 loops on knitting needles (4 mm) and knit with an English elastic band 1 knit x 1 purl - 5 cm. Finish knitting in the purl row. We continue with knit stocking stitch from the first cast-on edge to a height of 51 cm. Using smaller knitting needles, we knit 1×1 elastic (length 2.5 cm). We close the loops.

We knit the sleeves: cast on 49 loops on knitting needles (4 mm). We knit a 5 cm fabric with a 1×1 elastic band, finish knitting in the purl row and continue with stockinette stitch. Add 1 loop in each row, on each side. Next we add in every 4th row and so on 5 times. Then in every 6th row 18 times. As a result, we should get 97 loops. We close the loops after 48.5 cm from the first row.

Assembling the product: we assemble the shoulder seams from the edge to the center. Sleeves must be sewn in so that in the center of the sleeve is located shoulder seam. The sleeve seams and side seams are sewn together.

Types and forms

There are a huge variety of types of necks. Of course, the choice of neck will depend on the style and type of product. Let's look at the most common types of necks:

Small decorative zigzags:

Tying the neckline with knitting needles using binding:

Binding knitted separately:

V-neck:

Rectangular cut:

Bake with Italian edge:

“Boat” in stocking stitch:

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about knitting a neckline with knitting needles. You just need to strictly follow the master classes, videos and all recommendations. It is important to clearly calculate the knitting pattern, and you will definitely succeed.

Experiment and enjoy the results.

Video on the topic of the article

In conclusion, we present a selection of video tutorials with which you can easily understand other methods of knitting a neckline.

The shape of the neckline determines how the line of the chest, shoulders and neck will look. The boat neckline will visually widen the shoulders and emphasize the beautiful curve of the neck.

The boat neckline looks like a straight line.

Most often, the neckline is knitted together with the main parts of the back and front - this is a one-piece knitted collar.

We model the line of the back neckline called the “boat”.

You can use any pattern as a basis.

Let’s take for example the base pattern from the article
Or

And draw a straight line from the shoulder.

But it should be remembered that this is a basic pattern and the neckline is designed in it so that it runs strictly along the base of the neck.

If we draw the line of the neckline clearly along the highest points of the shoulder, then the collar will seem to climb onto the neck. Therefore, you need to lower the neck line by 3 cm.

You can adjust the depth of the boat neckline yourself, based on your goals.
Given as an example, 3 cm, which we set aside from the edge of the shoulder, is not a constant value, you can change it at your discretion.

For example, 5 cm. Let's mark it on the pattern.

The width of the strip can also be different.
The placket is usually knitted with an elastic band, but it is not necessary that it can be knitted with any other pattern that holds the edge - does not curl.

The bar can be knitted separately, then before knitting it only reaches the edge of the bar.
The strap is knitted separately and sewn to the main product.
But it’s better to knit together with the shelf.

The same steps need to be done with the back pattern.

You don’t have to knit the shoulder bevels, then finishing the knitting is simply closing off all the loops in a straight line.

What could be simpler?

Now let's talk about secrets. There is also one little secret here.

As a result of all the transformations with the pattern, it turns out that the back and front in the neck area are equal in length.

Very often this looks acceptable, and this is exactly how almost all magazines suggest knitting. For beginners, I advise you not to bother and knit this way.

But if you are not satisfied with the result and you have enough experience, then you can use a trick. Make the straight line of the front boat neckline concave a little - 2 cm.

And leave a straight line on the back.

Now there are several models and ideas where and how this cutout can be used.

For example, here is a model

There is still the same “boat”, but the neck line is lowered quite low.
The line also includes part of the sleeve neckline.

The question arises immediately - How can you determine how many cm to remove from a sleeve?
You need to measure how many cm from the bottom point of the shoulder!

Or you can tie the bar in a straight line, and you’ll get a model like this.

Plank with an inflection.

Dimensions: 42/44 (46/48)

You will need:

200 (300) g melange yarn Cotton Soft Stampe (100% cotton, 180 m/50 g);

knitting needles No. 3 and No. 4.

Double elastic: Use a contrasting thread to cast on half the required stitches;

1st row: using a working thread, knit *1 knit, 1 yarn over,*, repeat from * to *;

2nd row: “knit yarn over, remove 1 st as purl without knitting, thread before work *, repeat from * to *

3rd and subsequent rows: *K1, remove 1 stitch as purl, thread before work*, repeat from * to 9; Unravel the contrasting thread in the finished part.

Facial surface: persons R. - persons p, out. R. -outside P.

Purl stitch: persons R. - purl p, out. R. - persons P.

Knitting density.

Alternation 6 p. persons smooth and 2 r. purl satin stitch, knitting needles No. 4: 18 sts and 24 r. = 10x10 cm.

Description of knitting a pullover with a boat collar:

Back/Front:

On knitting needles No. 3, cast on 135 (145) sts and knit 8 r. double elastic band. Switch to needles No. 4 and knit alternately 6 rows. persons satin stitch and 2 r. purl satin stitch, after 30 (33) cm for sleeves, cast on again on both sides in every 2nd r. 5x8 p. and 0(1) x 10 p. After 51 (56) cm, decrease on both sides in every 2nd r. 5 x 8 p. and 0 (1) x 10 p.;

at the same time, for the neckline, close the middle 26 (30) sts and then knit separately, closing 2 x 5 sts, 1 x 3 sts and 2 x 1 sts along the edges of the neckline. After 56 (61) cm, bind off the remaining loops for each shoulder.

Assembly:

Sew one shoulder seam. For the strap, on knitting needles No. 3, cast on 179 (182) sts along the neckline, knit 6 r. with a double elastic band and close all the loops with a knitted seam. Sew the second shoulder seam. Using knitting needles No. 3, cast on 76 (81) sts along the edge of each sleeve and knit the strips as for the neckline. Sew sleeve seams and side seams.