Men's fragrances of the 80s. The best aromas of perfumes made in the USSR

Do you remember perfume aromas from Soviet times? Maybe someone even still has bottles of perfume made in the USSR?

Today, everything Soviet is often criticized, and there is a lot of reason for this, because it’s true that life in the USSR was not easy, associated with many trials. Making basic purchases was not as easy as it is now. Even chocolates, coffee or bananas were not as easy to obtain as they are today. What then can we say about clothes, handbags and perfumes!

Buying French perfume was literally a holiday for Soviet women. For us today this sounds strange, since you can go into a perfume store and buy whatever your heart desires. And no need to say that perfumes are still expensive today. It's not like that at all; today it's very accessible. A bottle of Guerlain fragrance can be bought for some 2-3 thousand rubles, which is an insignificant part of the average salary. And in the USSR, the cost of French perfumes could be a third of the average salary, and they were not sold in public stores, so when buying perfumes, Soviet women also had little choice.

Just imagine a modern store with only 4-5 types of perfumes! Life was so harsh in the USSR. True, today we will not scold the Soviet Union, so much has been said about this, everything that was Soviet has already been mixed with dirt and this is also not good. Whether life was bad or good in the USSR, this is part of our history, in which there was bad, but there was also good, there was a place for feat, selfless work and heroism.

Today we will remember Soviet perfumes that were made in the USSR. Not french perfume, and the aromas of our factories. In the USSR, these fragrances were more accessible than french perfume, and today original Soviet perfumes are more expensive than the average French perfume.

Why does this happen? There are several reasons: firstly, it is not so easy to purchase an original perfume from the times of the USSR, it is somewhat rare, and secondly, Soviet perfumery was made from higher quality components than today's fragrances. For the production of Soviet perfumes and colognes, natural ingredients were often used, and production was regulated by GOST requirements, therefore the perfumes were of high quality.

Many bottles of Soviet perfumes, released 30-40 years ago, still preserve the aromas of the past to this day. Such perfumes can be purchased at various online auctions and in specialized stores. And for perfume connoisseurs, these fragrances become collector's items. In some collections, the amount of vintage perfumes - Soviet, French... is measured in hundreds of bottles!

What about current fragrances, modern perfumery?
Now, in pursuit of profit, perfume companies are trying in every way to reduce the cost of production, saving on everything possible - on the bottle, on the box and on the aroma itself.

Little is known about Soviet perfumery during the period after the revolution and World War II. In 1917, the world famous house of A. Rallet & Co was nationalized and first renamed State Soap Factory No. 4, and then became the Liberty Factory.

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At the same time, the Novaya Zarya factory (the successor of the Brokar company) took up the production of fragrances, and Svoboda concentrated on the production of soap, tooth powders, creams, shaving products, etc. Unfortunately, the traditions and experience accumulated before the revolution were partially lost. And because of the political regime, there was no talk of free circulation of spirits between the USSR and Western countries.

In the Soviet Union, the following were extremely popular:

“Riga lilac” from Dzintars;
Anais Anais by Cacharel;
Estee from Estee Lauder;
Mon Parfum from Paloma Picasso and other legends, which we will talk about in more detail in this publication.

Industrial development in the post-war period

After World War II, the perfumery and cosmetics industry was restored not only Soviet Union, but also Europe. Already in 1947, Dior released the Miss Dior perfume, and a year later the house Nina Ricci presented its fragrance L" Air du Temps. Production also resumed in the USSR essential oils and aromatic substances. The factories “New Dawn” and “Northern Lights” started working again. And in 1949, the training of future professionals began. But, despite the general growth in production and a wide range ( large and small factories produced up to 400 items!), the lack of variety of raw materials gradually became noticeable. To exchange experience, leading specialists and employees of Soyuzparfymerprom and VNIISNDV began to travel abroad already in the 1950s and 60s - to China, France, Switzerland, then business trips took place to Brazil, the USA and Holland. There they got acquainted with Western craftsmen and the work of perfume companies.

However, the exchange of experience was not one-sided. Then, for the first time in the USSR, a show took place fashionable clothes house of Dior. This happened in 1959, and at the same time Soviet women discovered the Miss Dior fragrance. They say that representatives of the French fashion house brought with them about 500 liters of perfume. Some of them were sprayed during fashion presentations, and some were presented to the wives of diplomats and senior officials.

Despite the fact that “New Dawn”, “Northern Lights” and other factories of the Union republics produced their products in sufficient quantities, good cosmetics and perfume remained in short supply. At the same time, by good they often meant imported goods. Sometimes perfumes from European countries, primarily East Germany, Poland, and France, appeared in the USSR, but they were distributed through narrow channels of personal connections or sold in the Beryozka stores that appeared in the mid-1960s.

The most accessible imported perfumes were, perhaps, Polish ones, for example, Pani Walewska, combining aldehydic notes with tones of rose, jasmine and lily of the valley. Or the Bulgarian Signature, Sonnet, Capri, Sha Noar and others. But, of course, the French ones were considered the most desirable. The bottles were stored for decades, even long empty. Let's remember some of them.

One of the most popular fragrances among Soviet women is Fidji. A light, feminine, airy composition of notes of iris, hyacinth, jasmine, violet and rose with the addition of citrus accents and warm woody musk tones was released by Guy Laroche in 1966. The dream of millions of women was perfect for both daytime use and creating an evening look. Many people are still in search of Fidji, but today this Eau de Toilette, inspired by the Pacific Islands, is licensed from L'Oreal.

Climat from the French brand Lancome is a whole era and, in some way, a symbol of the 1970s. Being the embodiment of femininity, luxury and charm, this composition became one of the most desired gifts for Soviet women. Just remember “The Irony of Fate”, where Ippolit Matveevich gives Nadya a bottle of French perfume. This black and white box contained exactly the Climat! The film shows the original 1967 design. Only later did packaging become familiar to us of blue color. The original composition, created by Gerard Goupy, was built on unforgettable floral-aldehyde chords. Unfortunately, today Climat in its original form is no longer produced. In 2005, Lancome, celebrating its 70th anniversary, brought back some fragrances to life, including Climat. The brand's perfumers tried to recreate the bouquet as closely as possible, but the charm of the original was too difficult to replicate. The bottle, created in the 1960s by artist Georges Delhomme, has also undergone changes.

Another legendary creation by Gerard Goupy - the attractive, mesmerizing, bottomless Magie Noir. More than one woman in the USSR in the 1980s lost her head after hearing the symphony of this magical perfume. A complex composition of notes of black currant, raspberry, hyacinth, Bulgarian rose, honey, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley, narcissus, cedar chords, musk, sandalwood, vetiver and other undertones, it would seem worthy of being the creation of the times of medieval alchemists. But it was then that witches and witches were burned at the stake! Truly, this bouquet is luxurious, as is its black glass bottle, designed by Pierre Dinant.

A real masterpiece and standard of oriental perfumes. At the same time scandalous and seductive, provocative and bewitching, Opium, released by the house of Yves Saint Laurent in 1977, was, according to some, a hidden drug propaganda! According to Yves-Saint Laurent himself, perfumers Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jean Amic were to create perfumes worthy of the Chinese Empress Ci Xi herself. The complex, multi-layered interweaving of citrus notes with sensual, spicy chords, animalistic, balsamic and smoky woody tones is ingenious and unique!

Aroma Yves Saint Laurent - Opium

Other iconic compositions

By the way, oriental perfumery was held in special esteem in the 1970s and 80s not only in the USSR. But in the Soviet Union, among similar fragrances, perfumes such as those from Christian Dior, the Guy Laroche brand, Ispahan from Yves Rocher,

However, it should be said that in the Soviet Union there were fragrances that became popular in the West. One of the striking examples is, released in 1992 under the brand of Soviet fashion designer Vyacheslav Zaitsev. True, this perfume was developed jointly with L’Oreal, but the designer participated in its creation from start to finish and came up with the name himself.
Maroussia is the name of the mother and granddaughter of Vyacheslav Zaitsev, and it is consonant with the phrase “my Rus'” (ma Russie, French). The aroma triumphantly appeared on the Western market and arouses interest to this day. Including in modern Russia. Its intriguing sound intertwines invisible fibers of a whole galaxy of shades, among which animalistic, aldehydic, floral, resinous and sweetish facets stand out.
What perfumes do you remember from the Soviet past?

"Blue fog. Snow expanse,
Subtle lemon moonlight.
The heart is pleased with quiet pain
Something to remember from early years" S. Yesenin.

From time to time, each of us mentally returns to the past, remembering old times. For many this happens under New Year. But today we will not indulge in nostalgia, philosophize, be sad and yearn. Today we will indulge in the most pleasant memories, which will evoke the warmest feelings in most of us.

We will remember what perfumes our mothers and grandmothers used. What perfumes did women in the USSR love? Militta's readers, who are 30+, remember the fragrances that stood on the dressing table of their mother or grandmother.

Basically, many women of the 60s and 70s still had fragrances from our domestic manufacturers on their dressing tables. Perfume such as “Red Moscow”, “White Lilac”, “Silver Lily of the Valley”. Gradually they became a legend in Soviet perfumery, and for a long time enjoyed success among women. And once upon a time their appearance became a whole event in Soviet life.

Perfume “Red Moscow” were appreciated in Europe in 1958, 33 years after their release. Then they received the Grand Prix in Brussels. “Red Moscow” is the calling card of Soviet perfumery, real chic, and a scent with history.

Perfume "White lilac" appeared in 1947. Everyone still remembered the tragic events of the last war. And suddenly - this smell, as if the smell of spring, freshness, soaring over a devastated country, like the triumph of victory. But the White Lilac perfume remained unknown in Europe.

Perfume “Silver lily of the valley” They also became classics of Soviet perfumery, and one of the most sought-after fragrances of that era. In the 50s, to some extent, thanks to Dior, femininity became an ideal, and “Silver Lily of the Valley” personified this style. These perfumes have become business card Leningrad perfume factory "Northern Lights".

The smell of lilies of the valley was wafted about a year and a half apart - first in the USSR, and then in France. The aroma of modest forest flowers is a combination of many aromatic substances. “Lily of the valley silver” appeared in the USSR in 1954, and in 1956 the smell of lilies of the valley was heard in France from Dior. It was "Diorissimo". Josef Stefan Jellinek wrote about them: “Lilies of the valley smell like that only in heaven.” “Diorissimo” appeared in the USSR only in the 70s.

For Soviet women, imported perfumes were the stuff of dreams. For the most part these were spirits from “fraternal” socialist countries. But there were very few of these scents; most often they were perfumes from Poland and Bulgaria. And it was a pleasure to buy them. Because our perfumes “White Lilac”, “Silver Lily of the Valley” and many others that appeared in the very best quality, gradually simplified due to changes in composition. And this was done to increase production output (the five-year plan had to be fulfilled, and better yet, ahead of schedule).

The most popular in the 70s were the Polish perfumes “Pani Walewska” and “Perhaps”.

Perfume "Pani Walewska" were released in the 70s in Krakow. Maria Walewska is the Polish lover of the French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. Maria’s appearance is described by contemporaries as follows: “Charming, she showed the type of beauty from the paintings of Greuze. She had wonderful eyes, mouth, teeth. Her smile was so fresh, her gaze so soft,..."

Perfume "Pani Walewska" became incredibly popular in the 70s and 80s. Therefore, for many women of that time they remained a memory of youth and luxury. The composition of the fragrance included jasmine, lilies of the valley and rose, surrounded by a rich trail. Today, the perfume “Pani Walevska” can be purchased; it is still produced, and in three versions. One of them is called Pani Walewska Classic.

Perfume "Maybe". Eddie Rosner was considered the best jazz trumpeter in Europe. During World War II, a Polish Jew ended up in Belarus, where he gathered refugee musicians and organized Bialystok jazz, which later became the State Jazz of the BSSR. The first concerts - and immediate success.

When jazz appeared in Moscow, there was a stir at the ticket offices. The comedy "Carnival Night" was voiced by musicians of the Rosner Orchestra. The Soviet pop orchestra conducted by Eddie Rosner performed in Krakow in 1955. Its soloist was the aspiring singer K. Lazarenko, she performed a song called “Maybe,” which Rosner wrote for her.

The Poles liked the song so much that after a while they released a perfume with the same name. And the perfume, in turn, became the favorite Polish scent in Russia. The composition is floral-chypre. Today these perfumes are produced by the Miraculum perfume factory, but the aroma is still different from its predecessor.

"Signature" Bulgaria

“Signature” is produced by the Bulgarian factory “Alen Mak” (Scarlet Poppy). These perfumes have also won the hearts of perfume fans, just like Polish scents. The smell reflected the era; elegance and sophistication were now in fashion. The composition contains Bulgarian rose, accompanied by aromas of tulip and mandarin, with a luxurious trail of iris.

Climate Lancome

In addition to the Diorissimo scent, Soviet women were able to smell another French masterpiece - Climat from Lancome. These perfumes were released in 1967, and in the USSR they could only be purchased in the late 70s, and even then not for everyone. They cost serious money at that time, and were also in short supply. And still, there were many women who bought the amazing scent.

The deep and delicate aroma of the perfume, the composition of which included violet, peach, lily of the valley, jasmine, aldehydes, rosemary, sandalwood, tonka bean, seemed worthy of this cost and was purchased when possible. Climate was the scent of luxury. Today it can be purchased in a vintage version, and its price still remains high. As we see, you have to pay for memories.

Undoubtedly, perfumes produced in the USSR also enjoyed success.

Perfume "Elena"

Perfume "Elena" factory " New Zarya"were extremely popular among Soviet women of the 80s. The mysterious composition was released in 1978. Perfume belongs to the fruity-floral group. They feel lightness and freshness, romance and mystery. A woman with this fragrance should have uniqueness, elegance and perfection. She should also be a sweet, gentle and sensitive person.

These perfumes are suitable for women of any age - both mature and serious ladies and young, gentle creatures. The sophisticated composition captivates everyone. It contains black currant leaves and berries, lily of the valley, rose and jasmine, Virginia cedar, musk, tobacco leaf, sandalwood and amber. Today you can buy vintage perfume "Elena" from the "" factory.

Perfume "Tete-a-tete"

These perfumes were released in 1978 by the Novaya Zarya perfume factory together with French perfumers. They enjoyed the special favor of Soviet women. The perfume is more suitable for the fantasy, oriental group of aromas.

The initial release of “Tete-a-Tete” can be described as gentle, soft, they evoke dreaminess. They intertwine fresh notes of greenery and tangerine with the rich aroma of ylang-ylang and jasmine. Shades of rose add tenderness and charm. The scent trail is vetiver, patchouli, musk, amber, moss and sweet vanilla. Vintage perfume “Tete-a-tete” - for dreamy and sensual women.

One cannot forget the fragrances loved by Soviet women from the Latvian perfume factory Dzintars. For example, “The Secret of the Riga Woman”, “Compliment”, “Caprice”, “Coquette” and many others. These perfumes awed women almost as much as French perfumes. And, as they said then, it was easier to get (not to buy, but to get) them than French perfumes, and their cost was lower, although considerable.

Fragrance “The Secret of the Riga Woman”

The main components are rose and violet against a background of lily of the valley, jasmine, iris, magnolia flowers with a rich trail of musk and sandalwood. The perfume was released in 1987 and continues to be produced today. It used to be considered a classic in the 90s. While still at the final stage of development, the perfume “The Secret of Rijanka” was evaluated at an international competition in Paris. It was a passionate, exciting aroma with a mysterious note of bitterness.

What do those who remember them in the 90s say about them? Most women believe that a modern scent is different from the one they encountered in their youth. They say that he is not so warm and sensual. However, note that we have also changed since the 90s. One thing is clear - some people like it, others don’t. But the perfume is elegant and feminine.

Currently, we have a huge selection of perfumes and, in general, those things that make us unique and original. You can choose an expensive and exclusive perfume, touch the magical magic. Enchanting scents have always been in fashion. And today they are available to many of us.

For modern women It's not hard to be attractive. But it was much more difficult for our mothers and grandmothers. They had to “get” high-quality and fashionable things, including perfume.

Now some of the fragrances from the 50s to the 90s continue their lives. Maybe they exist for those who remember them and try to preserve their lost youth by touching these aromas...

“...It’s still as if I’m saving
Lost youth in my soul..."

“...Let your heart forever dream of May
And the one that I love forever.”

In Soviet and perestroika times, the range of perfumes was small: your mother will probably remember 3-4 brands of perfumes that she and all her friends used. For the sake of the coveted bottle, sacrifices had to be made: imported perfumes could cost as much as the average worker’s salary, and it was not easy to buy them.

We have collected 10 of the most popular fragrances from the past that you will be interested in learning about.

Climate by Lancome

The Climat fragrance was first released in 1967 in Paris. And in the 70s in the USSR it became a real hit and the most desired gift for a Soviet girl. There was a piquant legend that it was precisely this perfume that French prostitutes supposedly used! Moreover, in the film “The Irony of Fate,” Hippolyte gives Nadya that very perfume... Well, how can you not start dreaming about Climat after this?

Popular

As for the main notes of the fragrance, these are violet, lily of the valley, bergamot, rose, narcissus and sandalwood. By the way, the Lancome brand recently released a new version of Climat, which sounds very modern and will appeal to many.

"Red Moscow" factory "New Zarya"

This fragrance is perhaps considered the main symbol of the Soviet perfumery past. Now it seems to you that “Red Moscow” can only be used to repel mosquitoes, but earlier perfumes occupied a place of honor on the shelf of fashionistas.

There is a version that “Red Moscow”, first released in 1925, is directly related to pre-revolutionary fragrances. French perfumer August Michel allegedly created the perfume “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet” especially for Maria Feodorovna, and after the revolution, “Red Moscow” was produced at the Novaya Zarya factory based on it.

This fragrance is based on jasmine, rose and spices. And perfume can also be considered a real “bestseller” (though only because Soviet women for a long time there was no other choice): in the early 30s, literally everyone smelled of them, decades later our mothers discovered the scent, and today it is produced in the same packaging as 90 years ago.

"Riga lilac" from Dzintars

If a young man, for financial reasons, did not give his girlfriend “French perfume” (meaning Climat, of course), then he probably opted for another, more budget hit - “Riga Lilac” by the Latvian brand Dzintars. This scent was also in short supply - it was brought exclusively from the Baltic states.

There is probably no need to talk about the key chords - from the name it is clear that it is lilac, lilac and again lilac. Subtle notes of cinnamon give the perfume a special charm, making the aroma spicy and “tasty.”

Opium by Yves Saint-Laurent

The classic Opium fragrance, released in 1977, was the creation of Yves Saint Laurent himself - the master controlled the process of creating perfume from start to finish, from perfume composition to bottle design. In Soviet times, Opium was available only to those lucky women who, by some miracle, managed to “snatch” the coveted bottle: sometimes limited quantities appeared in department stores.

Today, the first version of Opium may seem too harsh and intrusive, but the fragrance has many re-releases to suit every taste. Classic version with a pronounced oriental character, it was floral-spicy and had a slightly “medicinal” trail. This, by the way, was intended - Saint Laurent was inspired by the aroma of Japanese boxes for storing medicine. And, of course, opium - let's be honest.

J'ai Ose by Guy Laroche

Another perfume that enjoyed special popular love is J’ai Ose, which appeared in 1978. Like Opium, the fragrance belonged to the oriental-floral group and was very fashionable. The perfume can rightfully be called legendary: Soviet girls with demanding taste chose it. Of course, J’ai Ose was successfully sold in Europe.

The heart of the fragrance contains sandalwood, patchouli, orris root, jasmine, vetiver, cedar and rose, and an interesting sound was added by chords of aldehyde, coriander, citrus and peach.

L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci

Perfume with the legendary lid in the shape of soaring doves was once the hallmark of the House of Nina Ricci, and even now it occupies its rightful place in the line of fragrances. The brand released L’Air du Temps in 1948, but the perfume appeared in the Soviet Union much later, although it was worth its weight in gold.

Like many perfumes of that time, L’Air du Temps is very rich and quite concentrated. Its most characteristic notes are clove and iris, which are harmoniously complemented by chords of bergamot, rose and jasmine.

Anais Anais by Cacharel

The delicate floral scent of Anais Anais, like other imported perfumes, appeared in the USSR shortly after perestroika, although the “decaying West” became acquainted with it much earlier - back in 1978. Be that as it may, our women immediately fell in love with it and for a long time was the most desired gift for March 8th.

Unlike most perfumes of that time, Anais Anais has an unobtrusive and fresh sound. Of course, because orange, currant, white lily, Moroccan jasmine and “green” shades are a very elegant combination.

Chanel No. 5 from Chanel

An eternal classic, a legend, a perfume masterpiece - there is a lot to be said about this famous fragrance. It was released in 1921 and is still sold to this day - such long-lived perfumers can be counted on one hand. The faces of the fragrance were many stars, from Coco Chanel herself to Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou and even Brad Pitt.

In Soviet times, many perfume lovers, of course, heard about these perfumes, but it was almost impossible to get them. That is why, after the restructuring of Chanel No. 5, as a symbol of luxurious life, enjoyed resounding success among Russian women.

Estee by Estee Lauder

Estee Lauder is the first American brand that managed to break into the USSR cosmetics market during perestroika. Women were immediately interested in the perfume with the laconic name Estee. And this despite the fact that it appeared in the USA back in 1968! But for Soviet ladies the scent was a hot new thing...

The floral aroma is based on aldehyde, coriander, rose, jasmine and iris. And cedar, ylang-ylang and honey are responsible for the interesting original sound... Your mother has great taste!

Mon Parfum by Paloma Picasso

Another popular scent that many women wore in the 80s was Mon Parfum by Paloma Picasso. This perfume was released by the daughter of the great artist Pablo Picasso, who has been inventing for many years Jewelry for Tiffany home. But Paloma, like her dad, is a very gifted person, which is why she managed to create a cult product in the world of perfumery. The perfumes that were popular in Soviet times can still be found on store shelves today, but now instead of Mon Parfum they are simply called Paloma Picasso.

We are sure that you will also like this “mother’s” scent. The combination of notes of hyacinth, ylang-ylang, bergamot, angelica, rose and citrus is still relevant today.