Crocheted fly agaric house. Master class crocheted fly agaric How to crochet fly agaric mushroom patterns

I continue to introduce everyone to needlewoman Anya Kirdyasheva. You can see how to knit a fairy house for a teapot

To make a needle bed you need to be able to: knit a single crochet, a connecting stitch (half-stitch), make increases, decreases and knit in a spiral. It is also advisable to know how to knit an amigurumi ring - we wrap yarn around a finger (two turns), and tie the resulting ring with single crochets. Tighten by pulling the free end of the thread. We close the row by knitting a single crochet into the first loop of the row.

If any of the above are unfamiliar to you, then I recommend watching training master classes, of which there are a lot on the Internet.

Materials:

• green yarn;
• white and brick orange yarn (or other suitable shade) for mushrooms;
• black sewing thread;
• thin yarn for embroidering blades of grass and flowers (cotton is best - “Iris”, “daisy”, “coco”, “rose”, etc.);
• beads (for the middle of the flowers);
• filler;
• PVA glue;
• universal glue (I used Moment “Crystal”).

Tools:

• crochet hooks;
• sewing needle;
• scissors;
• glue brush.

• decrease - knit two loops together;
• sc - single crochet.

We knit all the details of the needle bed in a spiral (without lifting loops).

Stages

Needle bed base

For the base of the pincushion, I took a screw-on canning lid, 9 cm in diameter (standard). If you like very miniature things, then choose a smaller lid. I recommend taking a new lid, since used ones can retain the smell of canned food for a long time.

To knit the hummock on which the mushrooms will grow, I used Alize ecolana yarn (100% wool, 220 m/100 g) in dark green color. In fact, you can take yarn of almost any composition and thickness. Just the number of connected rows will be more or less. Medium weight yarn is best.

1. Using single crochet stitches, we knit a flat circle with a diameter equal to the diameter of our lid (in my case, 9 cm).

It is assumed that you already know how to knit a flat circle in a spiral. But, just in case, I provide a diagram (diagram from the Internet). Please note that the increases in each row (6 increases in each) are knitted with an offset relative to the increases in the previous row. This is done so that we really get a circle and not a hexagon.

2. When the circle is knitted, knit a few more rows without increasing, forming “sides”. The height of the sides should be equal to or slightly greater than the height of the sides of the lid itself. While knitting, try the knitting on the lid. If desired, you can knit another row with connecting posts.

We got a cup that follows the shape and dimensions of the lid.

We choose the side that will be the surface of the hummock. I liked the texture of the wrong side of the knitting better, so I made it the “front” side.

3. Decorate the hummock. We embroider branches (chain stitch, using a needle or hook) and flowers (simple stitches from the center). We sew beads in the middle of the flowers. There is a lot of information on the Internet on how to make a chain stitch.

4. Decorate the bottom of the needle bed. For the bottom, it is better to choose a plain fabric of medium density. I took a piece of flax.

Cut out a circle of fabric the size of the diameter of the lid + double the height of the sides of the lid. My circle turned out crooked, but that's not a big deal.

Apply glue to the bottom of the lid around the perimeter. Spread the glue in a thin layer (so that the fabric does not become saturated with glue and stains do not form) and glue the fabric to the bottom.

We also lubricate the outer surface of the sides of the lid with glue and glue the fabric. We try to distribute the folds evenly.

Lubricate the inner surface of the sides of the lid with glue and glue the fabric. Dry everything thoroughly.

We put the knitted blank on the lid.

5. Sew the upper part of the needle bed to the bottom. For sewing, I used monofilament thread, but you can use thin threads to match the yarn.

We sew the upper part of the needle bed by inserting the needle between the posts of the last row and at the same time grabbing several threads of fabric on the bottom (photo a). We tighten the thread. Then we bring the needle out between the next pair of stitches (photo b) and tighten the thread. And again we insert the needle between the posts in the opposite direction, grabbing the fabric. This creates a neat, invisible seam (shown schematically in red).

Leaving a small hole unsewn, fill the needle bed and sew it up to the end.

For stuffing I used holofiber. But, you can take another filler (sintepon, foam rubber, wool) whichever you like best.

This is the hummock that forms the basis of the pincushion.

Boletus

For the boletus, I used Alize Felicita yarn (45% wool, 45% acrylic, 45% polyamide, 370 m/100 g).

You can take yarn of a different thickness - the mushrooms will turn out smaller or larger in size.

Big mushroom.

2-6th rows: 6 increases in each row = 36 sc

7th row: 3 increases = 39 sc

8-9th rows: 39 sc each

We finish knitting with a connecting stitch, but do not cut the thread.

The leg of boletuses is variegated, white and black. In order for us to get the same one, we knit the leg in two threads - to the white yarn we add regular black sewing threads.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

4th row: 3 increases = 21 sc

Rows 5-16: 21 sc each

Rows 17-19: 1 decrease in each row = 18 sc

23-25th rows: 6 increases each = 36 sc

26th row: 3 increases = 39 sc

We finish knitting with a connecting stitch. We cut the thread.

I chose the wrong side of the knit as the outside for the mushroom cap. And the front side of the knitting looks prettier on the leg.

We stuff the leg.

3. Place the top of the cap and the stem together. Insert the hook under the loop of the bottom of the cap and grab the remaining loop. Let's pull her out

4. We make a lifting loop and knit the edge with single crochets, connecting the top and bottom parts of the hat. Don't forget to leave a hole for stuffing

5. We stuff the cap and close the hole. We finish the row with a connecting column. We hide the tail in the thickness of the canvas

Little mushroom

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd-4th rows: 6 increases each = 24 sbn

5-8th rows: 24 sc each

9th row: 2 decreases = 22 sc

We finish knitting with a connecting stitch. Cut the thread.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd-3rd rows: 6 increases each = 18 sc

4th row: 2 increases = 20 sc

5-10th rows: 20 sc each

3. Stuff the leg and put a lump of filling into the cap. We put the hat on the leg (can be secured with pins). Sew the hat to the leg using monofilament or thin thread to match the yarn

The aspen boletuses are ready

Assembling the needle bar

Before you start sewing on the mushrooms, try arranging them in different ways, see how it looks prettier, and only then start assembling.

1. We crush the stem of the mushroom so that it is positioned vertically on the mound

2. Pin the mushroom to the hummock with pins and sew it on. Using a needle, we alternately pick up a couple of threads of the leg and a couple of threads of the hummock. After each stitch, tighten the thread well. Thus we sew the leg in a circle. You can, to be on the safe side, make one more circle.

3. Sew on the second mushroom in the same way.

4. Making blades of grass. For the blades of grass, I took a piece of thick yarn and divided it into individual fibers. You can also take wool for felting.

5. Attach the yarn to the base.

For clarity, I separately photographed the method of attaching the yarn to the knitted fabric. We also attach our yarn fibers.

I made three curtains of grass (on the sides and back of the mushrooms), three bundles of yarn in each curtain.

6. Form blades of grass. To do this, moisten the yarn with water and use a needle to separate it into separate bundles.

We wet each bunch with PVA glue and twist it with our fingers to form blades of grass. Dry it.

Similarly, we make blades of grass on all sides. Please note: on the left side my blades of grass are thinner than on the right, since on the left I twisted the tufts more strongly. When the blades of grass are completely dry, you can trim off any stray hairs.

Materials:

• tin screw lid for canning (base of the pincushion);
• green yarn;
• yarn of different colors for mushrooms;
• thin yarn for leaves and flowers (cotton is best - “Iris”, “chamomile”, “coco”, “rose”, etc.);
• beads (for the middle of the flowers);
• filler;
• piece of fabric. It is better to take medium-weight fabric, green or neutral colors (I used linen);
• monofilament or thin threads to match the yarn;
• PVA glue;
• wire
• universal glue (I used Moment Crystal).

Optional:

• acrylic paints;
• black acrylic outline;
• snail shell;
• two beads for snail eyes;

Tools:

• crochet hooks;
• sewing needle;
• bead needle;
• scissors;
• brushes for glue, paint, varnish.

Terms and abbreviations in the text:

increase - two stitches in one loop;
decrease - knit two loops together;
sc - single crochet.

We knit the base of the needle bed and the details of the mushrooms in a spiral (without lifting loops).

We discussed how to knit the base of a needle bed in the first part of the master class. For these needle beds the base is knitted in the same way. We only sew on the leaves and flowers after the hummock base is completely ready.

If it is still difficult for you to knit small details from thin yarn, then you can decorate the pincushion in the same way as you decorated the pincushion with boletus flowers - embroider flowers and twigs.

Pincushion with fly agarics

I knitted fly agarics from Alize baby wool yarn (175 m/50 g, 40% wool, 40% acrylic, 40% bamboo).

Big fly agaric

2-5th rows: 6 increases in each row = 30 sc;

6-9th rows: 5 increases in each row = 50 sc;

10-12th rows: 50 sc.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring;

5-8th rows: 24 sc each;

9-10th rows: 2 decreases in each row = 20 sc;

11th row: 20 sc;

12-13th rows: 2 decreases in each row = 16 sc;

14-16th rows: 16 sc each;

17th row: On the near (front) half-loops, knit a collar (photo a, front half-loops are marked in pink). We knit 2 double crochets into each half loop. We close it by knitting a connecting post. We cut off the thread and hide the “tail” in the thickness of the fabric. The collar is ready (photo b).

We attach the yarn and knit 16 sc on the far (purl) half-loops (in photo a, b, purl half-loops are indicated in green).

18-19th rows: 1 decrease in each row = 14 sc.

If you want the lower part of the cap to be more clearly separated from the stem, then knit the first row with increases on the nearest half-loops (in our case this is the 20th row). Then knit as usual, using both half loops.

20-24th rows: 6 increases in each row = 45 sc;

25th row: 5 increases = 50 sc;

The leg is ready (photo c).

We collect fly agaric in the same way as we collected large boletus (photo d).

We embroider specks on the hat.

Little fly agaric

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring;

2-4th rows: 6 increases in each row = 24 sc;

5-8th rows: 24 sc each;

9th row: 4 decreases = 20 sc.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring;

2-3rd rows: 6 increases in each row = 18 sc;

4th row: 2 increases = 20 sc;

5th row: 20 sc;

6-7th rows: 2 decreases in each row = 16 sc;

8-9th rows: 16 sc.

We collect the fly agaric in the same way as we collected the small boletus.

We embroider specks.

The mushrooms are ready.

Flowers, twigs, leaves

The simplest flower can be knitted according to the pattern shown in the figure below.

If you want a larger flower, then instead of two lifting loops, knit three loops, and for the petals, knit stitches with not one, but two crochets.

The flower will be even larger if you knit four lifting loops, and for the petals you knit stitches with three crochets.

The leaves are also very easy to knit. If you want to make a larger leaf, then increase the number of loops in the initial chain and, accordingly, the number of double crochets in the middle of the leaf.

The diagram shows a fragment of a branch. You can tie a branch of the length you need by simply adding the required number of leaves. You can also reduce or increase the distance between the leaves by tying more air loops between them.

Assembling the pincushion

Sew on twigs and flowers. How to sew on mushrooms and make blades of grass is described in the first part of the master class.

The pincushion is ready.

Pincushion with toadstools

Although all inedible mushrooms are called toadstools, none of them are, of course, nasty, but very cute!

We have three mushrooms with caps that are slightly different in shape and size. Below is a description of all three hats.

You can knit all the hats differently, or you can make the same ones.

2-5th rows: 1 increase in each row = 9 sc;

Rows 6-12: 3 increases in each row = 30 sc.

1st row: 5 sc in amigurumi ring;

2-3rd rows: 1 increase in each row = 7 sc;

4-6th rows: 3 increases in each row = 16 sc;

7-11th rows: 4 increases in each row = 36 sc.

1st row: 5 sc in amigurumi ring;

2nd row: 1 increase = 6 sc;

3-9th rows: 3 increases in each row = 16 sc;

10th row: 24 sc.

At the end of knitting, cut off the thread.

The hats are ready (photo a).

I decided to tint them with acrylic paint.

To do this, I moistened the caps and dipped them into red paint diluted to ink.

I turned the hats over and left them to dry. The paint itself spread over the wet canvas as needed (photo b).

Bottom of the cap

For hat 1

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring;

Rows 2-5: 6 increases in each row = 30 sc.

For hat 2

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring;

Rows 2-6: 6 increases in each row = 36 sc.

For hat 3

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring;

2-4th rows: 6 increases in each row = 24 sc.

For the leg, twist the wire leaving a loop (photo a).

We put the lower part of the hat on the stem (photo b).

Bend the end of the wire into an G shape.

Using a needle, thread the tip of the yarn into the middle of the circle (do not cut it off from the ball) and sew a wire loop with this tip (photo c).

Lubricate the wire with glue and wind the yarn. We try to wind it turn by turn, without overlaps. I made three layers of winding. Before each new layer, lubricate the leg with glue (photo d).

We connect the cap and the leg.

When we knitted boletuses (and fly agarics), we turned the mushroom with its stem towards us and inserted the hook under the loop of the lower part of the cap. With this method, the edges of the cap are slightly turned inward.

We don't need the toadstool's cap to wrap up. Therefore, we turn the mushroom with the upper part of the cap towards us and insert the hook under the loop of the upper part of the cap (photo a).

Pull out the loop (photo b).

We make a lifting loop and connect the parts of the hats by knitting a row of single crochets (photo c).

You can additionally knit the second row.

Don't forget to leave a hole for stuffing. We put the filler only at the top of the cap, otherwise the lower part of the cap will stick out unsightly.

We knit a collar.

We knit 15 double crochets into an amigurumi ring. We close the circle by knitting a connecting post.

We put the collars on the legs and sew them on.

The toadstools are ready.

Sew flowers and leaves to the base.

We choose a place on the pincushion where the mushrooms will grow.

Using a knitting needle or toothpick, make holes in the needle bar.

Lubricate the curved ends of the legs with glue and glue them into the needle bed.

Dry it.

We sew the legs to the needle bed with monofilament thread, alternately picking up the threads at the base of the leg and on the needle bed.

I decided to tint the lower part of the legs and collars of the mushrooms a little with brown paint. I think it turned out more lively this way.

Let's launch the snail. The pincushion with toadstools is ready.

Snail with real shell

I think it’s clear from the photographs how to make such a tiny snail. But, just in case, I’ll clarify some points.

Preparing the Sink

We will need empty shells of land or aquatic snails. I collected shells from the forest, washed them well and dried them. Then I covered it with three layers of varnish, drying each layer in between. Varnish is needed not only for beauty, but also to enhance strength, since the shells of land snails are quite fragile.

I filled the sink with holofiber. The white filler shines through the translucent walls and the pattern on the sink stands out beautifully. Well, again, additional strengthening. In the widest part of the sink (the mouth), I coated the inner surface of the wall with glue so that the filler would stick well and sealed the mouth with a piece of fabric.

snail body

I knitted the body from Tulip YarnArt yarn (250 m/50 g, 100% microfiber).

Since your shell may be a different size and the yarn of a different thickness, you may have to change the number of increases and rows:

If you need to make the body wider, then simply increase the number of rows with increases in the front of the body (indicated by a red bracket in the photo).

If you need to lengthen the snail, then increase the number of rows in the middle part of the body (marked with a blue bracket).

Knit the “tail” according to the description given (green bracket), its dimensions will change themselves, according to your changes in the pattern.

Snail eyes

Any white or colored, light beads are suitable for the eyes. You can also paint wooden beads with acrylic paint, or make eyes from polymer clay.

Before inserting the wire into the snail's head, make holes with a knitting needle or toothpick, otherwise the filler will cling to the ends of the wire (photo a, b).

Place the bead so that the hole is completely closed (photo c). Don't forget to coat the tip of the wire with glue.

I made the eyes from acrylic beads, and drew the pupils with a black acrylic outline (photo d).

Glue the shell onto the snail's back.

This is how the little one turned out.

If you don’t have real shells, then the snail can be made completely knitted

Knitted snail

I knitted the snail shell from “Rose” Vita yarn (100% cotton, 150 m/50 g).

The body is made of “Iris” yarn (100% cotton).

Sink

Attention! We knit for distant half-loops!

1st row: 5 sc in amigurumi ring;

2-4th rows: 1 increase in each row = 8 sc;

5th row: 8 sc;

6th row: 1 increase = 9 sc;

7th row: 9 sc;

8th row: 1 increase = 10 sc;

9th row: 10 sc;

10th row: 1 increase = 11 sc;

11th row: 11 sc;

12-26th rows: 1 increase in each row = 25 sc;

27th row: 3 increases = 28 sc.

We get a cone with a ribbed pattern due to the unknitted half-loops (photo a). We finish knitting with a connecting stitch.

We unfold the knitting and knit connecting stitches on the unknitted front half-loops (photo b).

When all half-loops are knitted, cut the thread leaving a long “tail” (photo c).

We thread the “tail” into the needle and pass it along the entire length of the shell, from the top to the base (photo d).

We fill the sink, but not completely, but only two-thirds.

We tighten the thread so that the cone bends and secure the thread (photo e).

Fill the shell to the full.

Next, we twist the shell as needed and secure the turns with the same “tail”. I didn’t photograph this stage, but from the photo of the finished snail, I hope everything is clear.

snail body

1. We knit two parts of the snail’s body according to the patterns

2. We fold the parts with the wrong sides facing each other and connect them by knitting a row of single crochets. Don't forget to leave a hole for stuffing. We stuff the body and finish the binding.

For the eyes I took pearl-like beads.

1. We make eye stalks from thin wire (photo a). I took beading wire.

2. We knit a hemisphere for the back of the eyes. I give a description for my beads. The sizes of your beads may differ - you will have to adjust the number of increases and rows. Try knitting on the snail's eye.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring;

2nd row: 2 increases = 8 sc;

3rd-4th rows: 8 sc per row.

We finish knitting with a connecting stitch and leave a long “tail”.

Using a needle, drag the “tail” from the inside to the front side.

In the same place we pierce the knitting with a wire stem and put the hemisphere on the eye (photo b).

3. Draw the pupils with black acrylic paint.

4. Bend the ends of the stems into an L shape (as we did with mushrooms) and glue them into the front end of the snail’s body.

5. Lubricate the stems with glue and wrap them with “tails” of yarn. I made three layers of winding. Using a needle, we bring the ends of the yarn to the underside of the body and secure it.

Sew the shell to the snail's body.

The snail turns out to be quite miniature. If you find it difficult to knit with thin yarn, you can take thicker threads. But then the snail will turn out larger. This snail has not yet found its hummock and its mushroom, so it is crawling along the palm of your hand.

This post will be of particular interest to those who are interested in landscape design in addition to handicrafts. The gardening season has come and you want to decorate your garden in an original way. Place a group of kind gnomes and a cute crocheted fly agaric house in your garden, they will please the eye and make your garden design original and unusual. Crocheting gnomes is very simple, but the fly agaric mushroom will take a little work, but the result will bring satisfaction and joy.

The author of the crochet pattern, Sarah Shrimpton, has created a detailed description of the knitting process, with tips and comments. If you carefully follow the proposed description, you will get charming gnomes and a giant mushroom. Knitted gnomes and a mushroom house can perform not only a decorative function, but also take part in children's games in the fresh air.

We knit amigurumi house and gnomes
Crochet pattern and description

The crochet pattern has been translated into Russian by Handcraft Studio.

At the beginning of each row there is no need to knit a chain stitch or close the row with a connecting stitch, just continue to knit in circles. Don't forget about the stitch marker, it should be placed at the beginning of each row.

Amigurumi gnomes

You will need:

• cork;
• yarn (leftover yarn is ideal, you only need 4 g of wool);
• hook 4 mm;
• stitch marker;
• buttons, etc. For decoration.

Body
KR 1: 8 sc in amigurumi ring (or: ch 2, 8 sc in second loop from hook)
KR 2: 2 sc in each sc in a circle (16 sc)
KR 3: RLS 16 (use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each row)
Check that your knitting fits your cork, you may need to increase or decrease the number of stitches depending on how tight you are knitting.
KR 4: 4-8. SBN 16

hat
CR 1: 3 sc in amigurumi ring
KR 2: 2 sc in each sc (6)
KR 3: RLS 6
KR 4: (RLS 1, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 3 times (9 RLS)
KR 5: RLS 9
KR 6: (RLS 2, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 3 times (12 RLS)
KR 7: RLS 12
KR 8: (RLS 3, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 3 times (16 RLS)
KR 9: RLS 16
KR 10-12: RLS 16
The author knitted this hat from top to bottom, but if it is too difficult, then cast on 16 ch, close the connection. Art. into the ring and knit everything in reverse order.

Now decorate the hat or the stem, or both. Dress up your plug and draw a face.

Crochet a fly agaric house

You will need:

• yarn (one color for the leg and another for the cap);
• hook 4 mm;
• stitch marker;
• rice or sand;
• felt / pieces of fabric / buttons for decoration;
• stuffing for toys;
• tapestry needle.

Fly agaric leg





KR 6: (4 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 6 times (36 RLS)
KR 7: 3 ch (first dc), 4 dc, 2 dc in next. Sc, (5 dc, 2 dc in next sc) x 5 times (42 dc). Conn. Art. in the third loop of the chain
KR 8: 3 ch (first dc), 5 dc, 2 dc in next. Dc, (6 dc, 2 dc in next sc) x 5 times (48 dc). Conn. Art. in the third loop of the chain
KR 9-12: RLS 48
KR 13: (4 sc, decrease 1) x 8 times (40 sc)
KR 14: (3 sc, decrease 1) x 8 times (32 sc)
KR 15-23: SBN 32
Decorate the leg if desired.
KR 24: (2 sc, decrease 1) x 8 times (24 sc)
Connection Art. next loop, bind off the last loop.
Use rice or sand (in a bag) as padding for the base.

Fly agaric hat
CR 1: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
KR 2: 2 sc in each sc in a circle (12 sc)
KR 3: (1 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 6 times (18 RLS)
KR 4: (2 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 6 times (24 RLS)
KR 5: (3 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 6 times (30 RLS)
KR 6: RLS 30
KR 7: (4 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 6 times (36 RLS)
KR 8:36
KR 9: (5 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 6 times (42 RLS)
KR 10: RLS 42
KR 11: (6 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 6 times (48 RLS)
KR 12: RLS 48
KR 13: (7 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 6 times (54 RLS)
KR 14: RLS 54
KR 15: (5 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS) x 9 times (63 RLS)
KR 16: RLS 63
KR 17: (2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) x 21 times (84 sc)
KR 18-26: SBN 84
KR 27: (4 sc, decrease 1) x 14 times (70 sc)
KR 28: (3 sc, decrease 1) x 14 times (56 sc)
KR 29: (2 sc, decrease 1) x 14 times (42 sc)
KR 30: (1 sc, decrease 1) x 14 times (28 sc)
KR 31: RLS 28
Conn. Art. next loop, close the last loop, leaving a tail for sewing to the leg.

Decorate the fly agaric cap and stuff it. Sew the hat to the leg. Put down your knitting and enjoy your amigurumi creation!

Size

Approximately 17 cm in height

You will need

Approximately 50 g each of white (A), rust (B), red (C), brown (D), dark brown (E) and light green (F) cotton yarn (approx. 125 m/50 g ); hook No. 2.5; stuffing filler.

Completing of the work

Big fly agaric

For the base, perform 2 ch. yarn F and in the 2nd stitch from the hook, knit the main pattern in the round. way:

1st row: 6 tbsp. b/n.

2nd–4th row: add 6 tbsp. b/n = 24 tbsp. b/n.

5th row: add 12 tbsp. b/n = 36 tbsp. b/n.

6th day: art. b/n.

7th row: add 12 tbsp. b/n = 48 tbsp. b/n.

8th day: art. b/n.

9th row: add 16 tbsp. b/n = 64 tbsp. b/n.

10th day: st. b/n.

11th row: add 16 tbsp. b/n = 80 tbsp. b/n.

12th day: st. b/n.

13th row: add 20 tbsp. b/n = 100 tbsp. b/n.

14–16th r.: art. b/n, in this case item 15th r. constantly knit only behind the back wall. 14th r. forms the last row of the base.

17th row: reduce 20 tbsp. b/n = 80 tbsp. b/n.

18th r.: st. b/n.

19th row: reduce 20 tbsp. b/n = 60 tbsp. b/n.

20th day: art. b/n.

21st r.: reduce 20 tbsp. b/n = 40 tbsp. b/n.

22–23rd: Art. b/n.

24th r.: reduce 8 tbsp. b/n = 32 tbsp. b/n.

25th day: art. b/n.

26th r.: reduce 8 tbsp. b/n = 24 tbsp. b/n.

27–45th r.: art. b/n, while in the 33rd and 41st r. reduce by 4 tbsp. b/n = 16 tbsp. b/n.

46th r.: art. s/n, add 16 tbsp. s/n = 32 tbsp. s/n.

47th row: add 8 tbsp. s/n = 40 tbsp. s/n.

48–49th row: add 10 tbsp. s/n = 60 tbsp. s/n.

Then knit for the hat with yarn D.

50th r.: st. b/n.

51st row: add 30 tbsp. b/n = 90 tbsp. b/n.

52–54th r.: Art. b/n.

55th r.: 30 tbsp. b/n decrease = 60 tbsp. b/n.

Now knit with yarn C.

56–62nd r.: Art. b/n.

63rd r.: reduce 20 tbsp. b/n = 40 tbsp. b/n.

66–67th birth: Art. b/n.

68th r.: 20 tbsp. b/n reduce = 20 tbsp. b/n.

69–70th r.: art. b/n.

71st r.: 10 tbsp. b/n reduce = 10 tbsp. b/n.

72nd r.: reduce 5 tbsp. b/n = 5 tbsp. b/n.

Cut the thread, leaving a fairly long end and tie the last row with this thread.

Little fly agaric

Run 2 v.p. yarn A and from the 2nd stitch from the hook, knit the main pattern in the round. way:

1st row: 5 tbsp. b/n.

2nd row: add 5 tbsp. b/n = 10 tbsp. b/n.

3rd row: add 10 tbsp. b/n = 20 tbsp. b/n.

4th row: st. b/n. This row forms the last row of the base.

5th day: st. b/n, in this case, knit stitches only in the back wall.

Now knit for the leg with yarn A:

6–10th r.: art. b/n.

11th row: reduce 4 tbsp. b/n = 16 tbsp. b/n.

12–15th r.: st. b/n.

16th row: knit st. s/n, add 16 tbsp. s/n = 32 tbsp. s/n.

17th row: add 8 tbsp. s/n = 40 tbsp. s/n.

Then knit for the hat with yarn B:

18th r.: st. b/n.

19th row: add 10 tbsp. b/n = 50 tbsp. b/n.

20th day: art. b/n.

21st r.: reduce 10 tbsp. b/n = 40 tbsp. b/n.

22nd day: Art. b/n.

23rd row: reduce 20 tbsp. b/n = 20 tbsp. b/n.

24–26 r.: st. b/n.

27th r.: reduce 10 tbsp. b/n = 10 tbsp. b/n.

28th r.: reduce 5 tbsp. b/n = 5 tbsp. b/n.

Cut the thread, leaving a fairly long end and use this end of the thread to tighten the loops of the last row.

Assembly

Using flat stockinette yarn A, embroider “peas” on the mushroom caps at irregular intervals.

For grass stems, several strands of F yarn, approx. Take 6 cm in the middle and sew to the bottom edge of the mushroom stem. If necessary, fix their position with hairspray.

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The height of a large fly agaric is about 13 cm, a small fly agaric is 9 cm.

Required material:
- yarn "Olga" (100% wool) white for fly agarics - 35 g;
- yarn "Souffle" (100% acrylic) red for fly agarics - 20 g;
- white buttons or circles made of padding polyester for spots on the fly agaric cap;
- 4 black beads for eyes;
- cotton wool or padding polyester for stuffing;
- a set of five needles No. 3 and No. 2 for circular knitting;
- small pieces of cardboard;
- red ribbon 5-7 cm long for a bow.

Big fly agaric

Leg. On knitting needles No. 3, cast on 21 loops with a white thread, distribute seven loops onto three knitting needles and knit 24 rows in a circle with knit stitches. Close the loops by knitting two loops together. Gather the beginning of the knitting in a circle on a strong thread with a seam over the edge and pull it towards the center. Make several stitches, securing the thread, cut the end of the thread. For stability, insert a cardboard circle into the bottom through the open edge. Determine the size of the mug by trying on, inserting mugs of different sizes. Place cotton wool or padding polyester on top of the cardboard. Leave the top of the leg open.

hat. On knitting needles No. 2, cast on 32 loops with white thread, distribute them onto four knitting needles (eight loops on each) and knit the 1st row in a circle, alternating 1 knit stitch and 1 purl loop. Knit the 2nd, 3rd and 4th rows according to the pattern: over the front loops - knit, over the purl loops - purl. Cut the white thread, leaving an end of about 3 cm, tie the red thread. Next, knit with knitting needles No. 3 only with knit stitches, adding one loop on each knitting needle at the beginning and end of the knitting needle. There are now ten loops on the knitting needles. We knit 14 rows in a circle. In the 15th row, knit two stitches together at the beginning and end of each knitting needle. There are eight loops on the knitting needles. Knit 2 rows in the round, and then knit two loops together in all subsequent rows until only four loops remain. Gather it onto a thread, pull it off, cut the thread and tuck the end in with a crochet hook. Softly stuff the cap and sew it to the stem with a hidden seam. Randomly sew ordinary small white buttons to the hat. If there are no white buttons, then cut circles of a suitable size from thin padding polyester or fabric that does not fray.

Pens. Both knit the same way. On knitting needles No. 3, cast on ten loops with white thread, distribute them onto three knitting needles: (3, 3, 4 loops) and knit 5 cm with knit stitches in the round. Then collect all the loops on the thread, pull it off, cut the thread, and pull the end inward with a hook. The second handle is knitted similarly. Gently stuff the handles through the open edge and sew them up. Sew the handles in place.

Spout. Cast on four loops with white thread on needles No. 3, knit the 1st and 3rd rows with knit stitches, and purl the 2nd and 4th rows. Cast off all stitches in row 5, knitting two stitches together. The result is a square. Gather the edges of the square with a strong thread with a seam over the edge, insert a cotton ball into the center and pull it tightly towards the center. Fasten the thread. Sew the nose in place with the same thread. Sew on beady eyes. Having connected the handles together, sew a small brooch, flower or leaf onto them.

Little fly agaric

Leg. Using a white thread, cast on 15 stitches on knitting needles No. 3, distribute five stitches onto three knitting needles and knit 15 rows with knit stitches. In the 16th row, bind off the loops, knitting two loops together. Finish the leg according to the description of the leg of a large fly agaric.

hat. On knitting needles No. 2, cast on 27 loops with a white thread, distribute them into nine loops on three knitting needles and knit the 1st row in a circle, alternating the front and back loops. In the 2nd, 3rd, 4th rows, knit over the front stitches - knit stitches, over the purl stitches - purl stitches. Cut the white thread, leaving an end approximately 3 cm long, tie a red thread and then knit on needles No. 3 with knit stitches for 10 rows in a circle. From the 11th row, knit two loops together until one loop remains on the knitting needles. Gather it onto a thread, pull it off, cut the thread, and pull the end inward with a hook. Softly stuff the hat and sew it to the leg. Sew the circles to the hat. Sew on beady eyes and a bow.

Alla Stolyarova "Toys"