19th century dresses underwent numerous and dramatic changes throughout the century. Our article is a short excursion into history. It will certainly be of interest to fashionistas.

Clothing is a kind of mirror of time, reflecting not only fashionable, but also cultural, political, philosophical and other trends of the era. The nineteenth century, like other eras, is distinguished by its aesthetic ideals female beauty which were expressed in outfits and accessories. 19th century dresses underwent numerous and dramatic changes throughout the century.

The 19th century was a period of struggle between different directions, a turning point in human consciousness and culture. This is the era of the formation of the principles of realism, the replacement of religious and mythological perception with utilitarian thinking. Of course, this change was reflected in the nature of women's dresses in the 19th century. Thus, the century begins with attractive antique, somewhat theatrical outfits and ends with pragmatic and comfortable ones.

At the beginning of the century, a real revolution took place - the lush and grotesque Rococo style was replaced by a simple Empire style. Therefore, complex outfits are replaced by translucent models simple cut V greek style. An antique silhouette is in fashion, reminiscent of a slender column of a Greek temple. Dresses of the early 19th century are light dresses with a high waist and a ribbon under the bust, a deep neckline, puffed sleeves, a loose hem with pleats, and floor length. White, blue and red shades were in fashion, as well as a minimum of cosmetics and no wigs. 19th century Empire style outfits were worn with silk ballet shoes with long ribbons tied around the legs.

The years 1820-1825 became the period of “Restoration”, that is, a return to previously existing forms. Waist women's dress still remains tall, but is gradually being shackled into a corset. The skirt takes on a bell shape, a metal frame and starched underskirts appear.

Since 1837, Queen Victoria, who was very fond of beautiful things, became the trendsetter when she ascended the throne. Romanticism comes into fashion, and with it sublime, spiritual and dreamy images. Dresses of the 19th century during this period acquired special pomp and richness of decoration. Silhouette is in fashion hourglass", created by an elegant corset, a crinoline skirt and puffy wide sleeves on a frame.

By the 60s, 19th-century dresses began to be decorated with voluminous flounces, scallops, scallops, and patterned borders. The hem gradually reaches a diameter of 2.5-3 meters. This period came to be called the “second Rococo”. The outfits were complemented by elegant hats and caps, gloves, umbrellas, lace-up shoes, shawls, boas, muffs and jewelry.

The 70-80s of the 19th century were marked by the appearance of a bustle - this is a device in the form of a small frame and a pillow, which ladies placed at the back under the hem of their dress to give their figure fullness. Slender, tall silhouettes with a curvy rear part in the buttocks were in fashion, so dresses with a bustle at the back were decorated with ruffles, pleats and draperies.

At the end of the 19th century, the active development of clothing production took place, a wide range of fabrics and the first fashion houses appeared. Clothes partially lose their exclusivity as they are replicated to the masses. Dresses with a slightly curved S-shaped silhouette are in fashion. The upper part is slightly tilted forward (“pigeon chest”), the belly is tucked in, and the lower part is slightly behind. Such styles were created using a special corset and petticoat.

19th century dresses for different occasions

Women of the 19th century liked to change their outfits many times during the day.

• Morning - the ladies came down to breakfast in a simple outfit made of smooth material. It had long sleeves and discreet colors. At home, a simple wrap dress with pockets and a belt was worn.

• Ballroom dresses - magnificent and luxurious dresses were made from expensive materials: taffeta, silk, poplin, satin, velvet and moire. The color could be matte, plain or shiny. The ball dress was complemented with gloves, high-heeled shoes and fans.

• Wedding - performed in the Empire style. As a rule, they were of discreet shades. They sewed a high-waisted bride's outfit, deep neckline and short sleeves. The top of the satin dress was covered with transparent material.

• Winter ones - they were worn at home and for walks. The outfit was made of woolen material and decorated with embroidery and fur. Mostly the models were made from luxor, merino, barège, castor and dradedam.

• For provincial women - women from the provinces wore less decorated and inexpensive outfits. Dresses were made from wool, linen or cotton.

• For traveling in carriages - a dress designed for such purposes was loose and practical. It was sewn shorter than usual so that a woman could easily get in and out of the carriage, and also so that it would not get dirty during the journey.

See what outfits from the past looked like in the photo. How do you find the models featured?

19th century dresses. Photo

Ethnic clothing style includes a rich list of national trends. In the multi-colored list, the Russian style stands out with its bright attractiveness and original execution. In clothing of the current trend, a characteristic feature is considered to be an organic combination of folk motifs with the latest trends in world fashion. Almost all modern couturiers, when creating their next collections, do not ignore the expressive and colorful style.

Historical basis of the current trend

Russian fashion began its victorious march around the world almost a hundred years ago. The impetus for this was the revolutionary events of 1917. As a result of great transformations, a mass of people were forced to leave their historical homeland and go into distant, unknown emigration. In addition to family jewelry, wealthy people also took out wardrobes filled with rich outfits in the traditional Russian style.

A variety of bright colors, unusual styles of dresses, amazing headdresses and other spectacular elements folk costume attracted the attention of Europeans and aroused genuine admiration and delight. Russian style smoothly migrated to all areas of life. The use of original color in hotels, restaurants, and on stage was considered good form.

Straight clothes decorated with folklore patterns entered European fashion. Even the most famous people chose men's blouses, colorful shawls, and tall kokoshniks. Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo used precious stones, beads and embroidery in the spirit of Russian motifs in their outfits.

The final approval of the style in the 20s of the last century occurred thanks to the emergence of fashion houses among Russian designers in Europe. An exclusively national spirit was in the air here, supported by noble immigrants from Russia.

Russian style in women's clothing - beauty and practicality

The harsh climate required people to wear a lot of different things.

• An undershirt is a mandatory element of a suit for women and men. Linen products were sewn freely, not restricting movement. The shirt was supposed to be tied with a belt.

• Poneva is a gathered underskirt that fits tightly around the waist. Created additional volume and insulation.

• A sundress or dress is the main outerwear for women. The loose cut line, expanding from the chest down, hid the outlines of the silhouette. Clothes were made from cotton, linen or wool.

On top they put on soul warmers, sweaters, and shawls over their shoulders. Multilayer clothing provided comfort and kept the body well warm.

In rainy weather, they chose epancha - a sleeveless cloth cloak. Fur coats worn by representatives of all segments of the population reliably protected from frost. Ordinary people sewed clothes from sheepskin or hare. The nobility wore sable, silver fox, and marten. The fur coats were long and heavy with a wide round collar. They were worn with the fur inside, covered with thick cloth, velvet or brocade on top.

Hands were covered from the cold with knitted or fur mittens. At home, women wore kokoshniks on their heads. When going outside, they tied scarves on top or put on round fur hats.

Modern clothes with elements of Russian style (Photo)

Typical symbols of the national trend are nesting dolls, Khokhloma painting, posad woolen shawls, and Orenburg down scarves. They provide the basis for the embodiment of design ideas in modern clothing.

Stylistic outfits include many traditional elements of Russian style:

• Styles. The cut of Russian clothing is aimed at creating maximum convenience and comfort. It is characterized by straight or bell-shaped skirts, long sundresses with wide straps, and dresses with a high waistline. All fabrics only natural origin: cotton, linen, silk, wool.

• Costume details. Collars are predominantly round and turn-down. The sleeves are narrow, straight or short, puffy in the form of lanterns. Basques, lace-up belts, and ribbons in the form of fasteners are often used.

• Colors. The combination of white with red and all its shades looks most impressive. Green, black, yellow, and golden colors are also relevant.

• Drawings. Folklore themes provide unlimited scope for design imagination. Clothes in Russian national style, painted floral patterns, ancient Slavic ornaments, fabulous animals and birds, invariably attracts the attention of others and causes delight. Beautiful images embroidered with colored threads, beads, small stones, woven with thin ribbons and golden laces look especially impressive.

• Lace, braid, hemstitch. Preferably use finishing self made. An intricate and complex pattern significantly distinguishes the Russian style from other ethnic trends, making it unique and original.

• Patchwork clothing(patchwork) – a typical example of Russian style. Thrifty Russian housewives never threw away pieces of fabric left after cutting. They were used to create pillowcases, colorful blankets, and rugs. Today, based on Pavloposad scarves, you can create unique models of things. The technical complexity of the execution is justified by the stunning result.

• Accessories. Excellent style decorations include floral wreaths, colorful ribbons, beads, and bracelets made of leather and wood. Stylized earrings and a kokoshnik embroidered with beads and stones give a great effect to the look. You can’t do without using colorful shawls, scarves, and capes.

How to create a fashionable image?

Modern clothes in Russian folk style- This is a layering of motifs of traditional patterns and ornaments on current items of clothing.

When creating a new look, it is not at all necessary to use only stylistic elements. It is enough to diversify your everyday look with one or two characteristic items. For example, long summer sundress decorate with patterned braid and wear shoes with a floral print. You can also complement the ensemble with several strands of pearl beads and choose a handbag to match the main color of the dress.

Building another fashionable image, do not forget that the main principle of Russian style is femininity and chastity. Therefore, it is better to avoid trousers, open and tight-fitting clothes. The beauty of a woman should be presented with dignity and modesty.

And finally

Designer clothes in the Russian style are relevant all over the world to this day. Influenced national characteristics Many new clothing models are created, decorated with original details, patterns and ornaments. Many famous couturiers of our time never tire of drawing their inspiration from folk traditions, gifted with timeless Russian style.

"Russian ladies invariably attracted everyone's attention with the beauty and richness of our national dresses." M.P. Stolypin

A special decree of 1834 legalized the character of the ceremonial women's suit. The color of the velvet and the pattern of gold or silver embroidery were determined by the rank of the owner.

Top green velvet dress ladies of state and ladies-in-waiting were required to wear gold embroidery; of blue color- mentors of the Grand Duchesses; a crimson dress for Her Majesty's ladies-in-waiting, a light blue dress for the Grand Duchesses' ladies-in-waiting, and crimson for the ladies-in-waiting. Ladies coming to the Court were given the right to have dresses of various colors and different designs and with various embroidery, in addition to the patterns intended for court ladies.

Cut the dress according to the same pattern for everyone: very long folding sleeves with an open armhole, going down almost to the knees, emphasized by the decor and placket with buttons, as in a Russian sundress, the vertical line of the center front. All ladies, both courtiers and those visiting the Court, were supposed to have “< ...>a warrior or kokoshnik of any color with a white veil, and for girls a bandage of any color and also with a veil.”

On March twenty-fifth, 1834, in one of his letters to Moscow, the maid of honor of the Supreme Court A.S. Sheremeteva wrote about the preparations for the ball in honor of the oath of office of the heir to the throne:
“We will all be in Russian dresses, that is, the ladies will be dressed in something like sundresses, but made of light material, and there will be roses on their heads in the form of a kokoshnik. Young ladies (dancing) in garlands of white roses. The Empress will also be wearing a sundress herself. Later there will be a ball in the White Hall of the Winter Palace.”

At the end of the nineteenth and beginning of the twentieth century, the “Russian” dress was made of white satin with a velvet train covered with gold embroidery. At the first court ball of the winter season, ladies paraded in court dresses. On the left side of the corsage was attached, according to their rank, either a cipher (a monogram surrounded by diamonds - the distinctive sign of a maid of honor), or a “portrait” surrounded by diamonds (a high distinction that gave the title of a “portrait” lady).

The Grand Duchesses appeared wearing their family jewels with rubies and sapphires. The color of the stones had to match the color of the dress: pearls and diamonds or rubies
and diamonds with pink materials, pearls and diamonds or sapphires and diamonds with blue materials. Dresses and kokoshniks were decorated with precious stones depending on the degree of wealth of the person. Thus, the wife of the leader of the nobility of one of the districts of the Petrograd province wore emeralds the size of a pigeon egg in the form of buttons. Countesses Shuvalova, Vorontsova-Dashkova, Sheremeteva, Princess Kochubey and Princess
Yusupova.

This is how the chronicler of the World Illustration magazine describes the reception in the Winter Palace in 1895 on the occasion of the presentation of the court ladies to Empress Alexandra Feodorovna:
“By half past two o’clock the magnificent white Nicholas Hall was filled with ladies. Here the beauty and richness of the original Russian costume appeared in all its splendor. The picturesque quality of the collection... begged to be touched by an artist's brush. What luxurious kokoshniks there were... what rich sundresses made of velvet, silk, Indian fabrics, what rich brocade, fur trims, flowers, lace, what a variety of colors and shades from dark green, blue to delicate and light green, pink , lilac. Among this splendor and wealth of toilets, diamonds and precious stones and a significant mass of red armbands and red, gold-embroidered trains of the ladies-in-waiting of the large court - here and there the masters of ceremonies with staffs walked in their court uniforms sewn with gold "<. . .>».

It should be noted that the court dress of Russian ladies looked especially impressive at receptions at foreign balls, where this kind of clothing was required.
Traditional custom required only Englishwomen to wear a special headdress consisting of ostrich feathers. A distinctive detail of the court costume was the train attached to the shoulders of the ball gown. "< ...>Russian ladies invariably attracted everyone's attention with the beauty and richness of our national dresses. The kokoshnik, veil, richly embroidered historical Russian dress with a train and a large number of precious stones could not help but make an impression,” recalled M.P. Bock (née Stolypina) about one of the court balls in Berlin at the beginning of the twentieth century.

Court ceremonial dresses made an indelible impression on contemporaries: “...In the splendor of uniforms, in the luxury of toilets, in the richness of liveries, in the splendor of decoration... the spectacle is so magnificent that not a single court in the world could compare with it,” - wrote the French ambassador to Russia M. Paleologue.

A number of state decrees of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries regulating forms of clothing indicate that the importance attached to the costume as an expression of the class and moral ideas of the nobility during this period was great. At the same time, the ball gown also had a picturesque function.

"Secular ceremonies of Russia in the 18th - early 20th centuries."

What is typical for a wedding dress in the noble style?

A wedding is one of the most important days in the life of every girl. This day should be filled with joyful emotions and remain in memory for a lifetime. Choosing a wedding dress becomes a big problem for most girls, because everyone chooses it very carefully. How to find that one dress among many others?

What dress today looks as beautiful as a dress in the noble style. It’s impossible not to fall in love with the elegant and sophisticated cut of the vintage style. The atmosphere of nobility and exquisite taste puts everyone present in a special mood. The bride in such a dress will look cute, touching and feminine.

What is characteristic of such a dress?

1. Light flowing fabrics are popular as materials: satin, chiffon, silk, organza and lace.

2. Floor-length dresses, which are always popular. They combine a simple cut, obedient styles and unpretentious lines.

3.Colors: pink-beige pastel, ivory, champagne, milky, powdery.

4.Aristocratic lace, embroidery, mesh, translucent fabric that will add luxury and femininity to any dress.

5.Models with bare shoulders and back - this is a seductive grace that will not go unnoticed.

6.Wedding Dresses with long sleeves will add sophistication to your look and emphasize the attractiveness of the bride. If you want to show your modesty, but at the same time hint at sexuality, you can use translucent fabrics or lace.

7. Dresses with a train that should be detachable for the convenience of the bride. In this dress you will feel like a real princess.

8. Wedding dresses with a belt, high-waisted dresses that will hide all the flaws of your figure and emphasize its advantages. The belt can match the color of the bride's bouquet, the groom's tie or his boutonniere.

A sophisticated dress can be complemented with a necklace or vintage brooch. Also good accessories are gloves that will highlight your sophisticated look. And don't forget that wedding dress The bride must match the groom's suit.

And don’t forget about comfort, without which any wedding can turn into not the happiest day, but a true nightmare for the bride.

The most delicate vintage dress will make you irresistible and let your wedding fairy tale begin with a dress in a noble style that will convey the unique sophistication of the last century. The modern wedding industry provides a huge selection of dresses for your wedding. And it is important to find the very dress in which you will feel most beautiful and happy.

It is very popular in clothing now. This does not mean that everyone around is starting to wear floor-length sundresses, kokoshniks and bast shoes. It’s just that some individual components of the outfit are reminiscent of the past. A lady dressed in Russian style does not look like a girl from a fairy tale. She, on the contrary, emphasizes her deep knowledge of fashion. The most famous designers they create collections with elements of Khokhloma and elements of Gzhel.

Colors

In clothing it is expressed in several colors, these are red, white, cream, less often blue and brown. They are combined with embroidery, ornaments, and prints that imitate folk crafts. Shades of black were considered mourning in Rus', so they were almost never used. Although now they can be used in combination with a bright accent.

Outerwear

What Russian style can be can be found even in this part of the wardrobe. This thing is made in the form of a cut. It is usually plain with a bright element such as an ornament or embroidery. Outerwear may have fur on the collar or sleeves.

At the same time, you cannot wear hats that are now fashionable with pom-poms and the like. The best option- lace or Pavlovo Posad scarf. Fur hats look good on older ladies. The length of the coat depends on the height of the girl. The lower it is, the shorter the model you need to choose.

If you don’t like coats, but want a Russian style of clothing, then you can buy a down jacket with a matching print. You should choose a national “ushanka” to go with it. Dilute your fur coat with a Pavlov Posad scarf. Also worn fur vests. Previously, they were worn over a dress, but this will not work for cold weather. After all, the Russian winter is harsh. Yves Saint Laurent also brought sheepskin coats into fashion. This is an excellent alternative for those who want to be warm, but do not have the money for a fur coat, and find a coat boring.

Shoes

In ancient times, noblemen in Rus' preferred elegant, elegant shoes. Clothes in the Russian style must be complemented with red ankle boots. In winter you can wear felt boots. They were not used for several years; they were considered rustically old-fashioned. But in Lately designers began to create truly amazing things. Thus, ordinary gray felt boots are decorated with embroidery in the national style and have a matryoshka doll print. Some models even have heels. Therefore, if you are serious about filling your wardrobe in the Russian style, buy fashionable felt boots. Red rubber or leather boots will look good for spring.

Accessories

Accessories include large fur mittens, hats, muffs, and Pavlovo Posad scarves. Women's clothing in the Russian style, when creating a certain image, takes into account these, at first glance, insignificant details. First of all, you should take care of your hair. Braid your hair in any way you like. Good for those who have long hair, the rest can buy a false braid. Weave a red ribbon into your hair and put on a headband. Plain beads, bracelets and earrings will help complement the look.

It is allowed to use glasses, although they have not been worn before. The bag should look harmonious with the whole look. So, only a plain handbag will go with a bright dress. This is the most profitable option, because it can be combined with other clothes later. But a white clutch with Khokhloma is much more difficult to apply. It will only fit with a white embroidered shirt and dress in this style.

Style

A truly modern one should be knee-length. A little higher is allowed, but just a little. If the décolleté area is open, then the arms must be covered. Sleeves may be missing. In this case, the straps should be wide or made in the form of “lanterns”. It's good if long sleeves They fit the arms only at the cuffs. Girls prefer traditional clothes that look like they were taken from their grandmother’s chest. The Russian style of clothing looks harmonious and interesting on them. The photo below is proof of this. But not everyone risks dressing like this. Many simply dilute the image with some element, without even paying attention to makeup and hairstyle.

The fabric itself can be anything: from satin to cotton. But to replicate the Russian image in the finest detail, purchase items made from natural materials.

Makeup

Any image will look complete only in combination with makeup. Clothes in Russian style are no exception. You need to highlight your lips with red and just tint your eyelashes a little. It’s ideal when a girl highlights her eyebrows and generously blushes her cheeks. But remember: natural beauty is welcome. Therefore, it is irrelevant to achieve the look of a matryoshka doll. Cosmetics should be in moderation.

Who will it suit? Where to wear it?

Russian style of clothing will suit almost every girl. It will just look better on some. Naturally, this applies to Slavic appearance. Welcome high growth, big eyes, plump lips, long brown hair. Complementing such a look with a modest character and hard work, we get a real “Russian beauty.” Even the lady's weight is not important. Lush forms are typical of wealthy noblewomen, while peasant women were slender.

You can dress in this style anywhere. It all depends only on the style and color. Thus, a long plain dress, decorated with some element of the ancient Russian province, is preferable only for the evening. A bright floral sundress will look good during the day. Sports suit with flowers it will be suitable for the gym or street jogging. Russian style of clothing is in any case an excellent solution for a photo shoot. Choose a variety of seasons:

• For winter, tie a scarf on your head, put on felt boots, a sheepskin coat, a fur coat or a coat. Braid your hair and apply makeup accordingly. The best place there will be a village or forest for a photo shoot.
• In summer, go to the same village or field where there are more ears of grain. Wear a sundress and red beads. Feet must be bare. Be sure to braid your hair and put a wreath on your head.

At both times of the year you can sit at a table on the veranda next to the samovar and bagels. It would be nice to try on a kokoshnik, but due to the fact that it is richly decorated with beads, such an element is usually very expensive. Moreover, it cannot be used anywhere except for a photo shoot. You should choose modest poses to create the impression of a girl from the past.

Bow option

Russian style of clothing can be expressed in different variations and used at any time of the year. The most popular models are those created in a certain color scheme with the addition of one bright element. For example:

• A red dress emphasizing the waist with a Khokhloma belt.
• Sweatpants with Khokhloma stripes on the seams.
• White dress trimmed at the edges with a border in the Gzhel style.
• Dress with embroidery of national ornaments.
• Straight-cut sundress with wide straps.
• Often fashionistas opt for a bright skirt with a matching print and a plain top.
• White loose shirt with a folk pattern plus a full skirt.
• Dress, blouse with lace on the collar.

These are a few examples of clothes that are most often found in stores.

If you have a dress in white or red, then you can easily give it a twist with a Russian accent. Cross stitch will help with this. Using the appropriate ornament, create some flowers different shades or frame the edges. So, a boring, monochromatic thing will become much more interesting.

Russian style of clothing gives a girl femininity and sophistication. You can only have a Pavlovo Posad scarf, an element of Khokhloma or red boots, but the image will already give off notes of a beauty from the people. Such clothes will be appropriate for any event. It’s not for nothing that the world’s catwalks often present clothes of this style. Although sometimes the images are too extravagant and retain only some elements of the Russian folk style.