Overalls for women from jeans pattern. Simple pattern of overalls: features of the construction of the drawing

Along with short shorts, skirts and tops, a jumpsuit is a fashionable subject of a summer women's wardrobe. Today we offer you a basic pattern of overalls, according to which you can simulate various models of trouser overalls. Overalls from which fabrics are relevant this season? Bright floral prints are popular, we recommend sewing overalls in more classical versions from plain fabrics, the trend is also light flowing fabrics, soaring at the slightest breeze. And, of course, what will always be at the peak of fashion is denim overalls.

As for the style, these can be both narrowed and wide elongated solutions. We offer you a basic pattern of overalls with trousers of classic width, on it you can simulate any style you like.

To simulate overalls, you will need a bodice pattern.

Building a basic bodice pattern

Fig. 1. Measurement table for building a bodice

IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Chest Circumference (OG) of more than 80 cm.

The construction of the pattern is given for the bodice of the adjacent silhouette - an increase in the freedom of fitting to the semi-girth of the chest 1.5 cm.

Fig. 2. The bodice pattern

Drawing grid

Step back from the top of the paper 10-15 cm down and in the left corner put point A. Down from point A, draw a vertical segment AT (Length of the back to the waist by measurement).

To the right of points A and T, draw horizontal segments with a length equal to 1/2 of the chest circumference by a measure of +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit) - points B and T1 are obtained.

Armhole line. Set aside AG from the point A down \u003d Armhole depth as measured by + 0.5 cm \u003d 20 + 0.5 cm \u003d 20.5 cm (0.5 cm is an increase in the armhole deepening). Draw a horizontal line GG1.

The width of the back. From point Г to the right, set aside ГГ2 \u003d 17.5 cm (ШС \u003d 1/8 Chest Girth + 5.5 cm \u003d 96/8 + 5.5 \u003d 17.5 cm).

Armhole width. From point G2 to the right, set aside the width of the armhole G2G3 \u003d 11 cm (Width of the armhole G2G3 \u003d 1/8 Chest Girth by measurement - 1.5 cm \u003d 10.5 cm + 0.5 cm for freedom of fit).

From points G2 and G3 upward, draw vertical lines to the intersection with AB. The points P and P2 are obtained.

Side line. Divide the width of the armhole G2G3 in half, from the point of division G4 draw a vertical line down to the intersection with TT1 - the line of the side G4T2.

Auxiliary points. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole PG2 and P2G3 into 4 equal parts - auxiliary points for further construction are obtained.

The construction of the back of the bodice

Neckline of the back. From point A, set aside 6.8 cm to the right (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck by the measure + 0.5 cm) and 2 cm upwards (for all sizes). Draw a curved line to cut the neck of the back.

Shoulder back. From point P lay down 1.5 cm (shoulder tilt). Connect points 2 (neckline) and 1.5 (shoulder tilt) with a straight line.

IMPORTANT! For sloping shoulders, we recommend increasing the shoulder inclination to 2 cm.

Shoulder length to measure. Extend the segment connecting the points 2-1.5 and postpone 12 cm along it (shoulder length by measure).

IMPORTANT! If there is a small stoop, we recommend increasing the length of the shoulder by 1 cm, while sewing, the shoulder of the back is attached.

Armhole line of the back. From the lower left corner of the armhole (point G2) draw a bisector of the angle 2 cm long (for all sizes). Draw a cutout of the armhole of the back along the pattern or by hand, based on the control points: point 12 (shoulder of the back), the middle auxiliary point of dividing PG2, point 2, to point G4.

Building the front of the bodice

Raising the shelf. From point T1 up, lay T1Sh \u003d 47 cm (Length of the front to the waist by measurement). From point W draw a horizontal line to the left. Lengthen up the auxiliary vertical line of the armhole P2G3 - point P1 is obtained.

Neckline in front. From the point W to the left, put aside 6.8 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck to measure + 0.5 cm for all sizes) and down 7.8 cm (1/3 of the semi-circumference of the neck to measure +1.5 cm for all sizes). Construct a neckline of the front according to the pattern (or by hand).

Shoulder before tucking. From point 6.8 (front neck) set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short sloping shoulder line to the tuck.

The right side of the chest tuck. From the G1 point, lay to the left ½ the distance between the high points of the chest G1G5 \u003d 10 cm. Connect the G5 point and point 1 (the right side of the chest tuck is built).

Breast tuck. Divide the right side of the chest tuck in half and draw a horizontal line 4 cm long from the division point (Half-circumference of the chest minus half-circumference of the chest: 48-44 \u003d 4 cm). Through point 4, draw the left side of the chest tuck with a length equal to the length of the right side of the chest tuck.

Front shoulder line. Draw the auxiliary dashed line from the upper point of the left side of the chest tuck to the upper division point of the auxiliary line of the armhole of the back of PG2.

Set aside 7.5 cm along the dashed dotted line ((12 cm (shoulder length as measured) minus 4 cm (shoulder length to the right side of the chest protrusion) minus 0.5 cm) and lay down 1.5 cm (shoulder tilt) at right angles the front is equal to the slope of the shoulder of the back.) Draw a line of the front shoulder.

From the lower right corner of the armhole (point G3) draw a bisector 2 cm long.

Cut the armhole of the front along the control patterns or by hand at the control points: shoulder point (1.5), point 1, point 2, to point G4.

Calculation of tucks at the waist

Calculation of excess tissue at the waist: 1/2 chest circumference minus 1/2 waist circumference \u003d 48 - 38 \u003d 10 cm. This is the excess tissue at the waist, which must be removed in tucks.

1/3 of the obtained value is removed in the side tucks and 2/3 in the back and in front - a little more in the back and a little less in front.

Side tucks: 10 cm / 3 \u003d 3 cm (round up to 3 cm). Set aside 1.5 cm from the point T1 to the right and to the left. The tuck-in tuck in the back is 4 cm, in front - 3 cm.

Felt back tuck. Divide the width of the waist of the back to the side in half and from the point of division draw a vertical line to the armhole line up and to the hips line down. Step back from the armhole line 3-4 cm down, from the hips line 2 cm up and draw a tuck 4 cm deep as shown in the drawing.

Front tuck. From the top of the chest tuck, draw an auxiliary perpendicular to the waist line. Step 5-6 cm from the armhole line down and draw a tuck 3 cm deep as shown in the drawing.

IMPORTANT! To find the point Center of the chest (C. G.), set aside from point 6.8 (the neckline of the front of the neck is measured to a measure) down.

Modeling the basic pattern of overalls

Fig. 3. Modeling a bodice pattern

Set aside 2 cm from the neckline of the front of the bodice and draw a new neckline of the front of the front.

On the side of the armhole line, set aside 1 cm and 3 cm. Shorten the shoulder length by 3 cm, draw a new front armhole line. Move the chest tuck to the side line.

When modeling the back, deepen the neckline by 2 cm and the armhole line by 1 cm. Shorten the shoulder length by 3 cm. Draw a line of the armhole of the back. Use a trouser pattern without changes.

Fig. 4. Modeling patterns overalls

Connect the front bodice pattern and the front half of the trousers along the line of the middle of the front, making an increase of 2 cm to the height of the seat.

Connect the side seams of the bodice and trousers, slightly rounded. Tuck the trousers of the pants, aligning with the tucks of the bodice, extend the lines of the tucks, connecting them in pairs.

A contrast tape 3 cm wide is sewn onto the front half of the trousers along the side seam.

Today we will be building overalls patterns. It is built very simply.

At its core, overalls are trousers (see the article “Pattern of women's trousers”) and the shoulder base (see the article “Pattern of the base of the dress”), which are aligned along the waistline. Therefore, initially we transfer the main contours of lines and points from the pattern of the base of the dress to the waistline and pattern of trousers.

Constructing the front part of the overalls

(2) .First of all, we combine the pattern along the waistline so that between the waistline of the trousers and the shoulder base there is a margin of 2 - 4 cm. This is done so that it is convenient to move in overalls, without restriction of movement. Please note that the waist line of the jumpsuit is considered the waist line on the shoulder base of the dress!

(4). We connect a side seam.

(5). Move the chest tuck into the side seam.

(6). As a result, we have a pattern for the base for overalls.

Modeling trousers on the front of the overalls

(7). Optionally, you can expand the legs or vice versa to narrow. If you need loose pants in overalls, then proceed as follows. From t.C2 lower down 2cmand towards expansion - 0.5-1 cm. We get a new line of the middle seam.

(eight). It is necessary to expand the leg down.

(nine). We get new lines of the side and step seams.

(ten). For fitted overalls, it is necessary to add waist and side tucks.

(eleven). You can also vary with the length of the overalls - from shorts to ankles. You can narrow the trousers - set aside the desired width along the bottom line and draw new lines of the side and step seams.

Building the back of the overalls

(12). Combine the lines DD1shoulder product and H1N2patterns of trousers. And do not forget to leave a distance in 2-5 cm between these lines.

(13). We draw a new line of the side seam.

(14) .For more comfort down from t.C4 put off 1-2 cm and in the direction of increasing the leg we postpone 0.5 - 1 cm. We also expand on the bottom and get new lines of the side, step and middle seams.

(fifteen). For the fitted style, as well as on the front part of the overalls, add waist and side tucks, narrow the legs.

Thus, as a result of combining the basic patterns of the shoulder product and trousers, we got a universal pattern for overalls. Now it remains only to apply a little imagination and skills in order to be irresistible in a hand-sewn overalls.

It so happened that every man in the process of his life from time to time has to do work related to physical stress and contact with pollutants.

Moreover, this can happen in a variety of conditions: in cold and rain, under the rays of the scorching sun and in damp, windy weather. Therefore, the selection of suitable equipment for them is "a matter of first importance and necessity."

The best choice for such cases is a good overalls that will protect against all kinds of negative factors and allow the man to feel comfortable and comfortable in any conditions. By the way, it can be purchased in specialized stores or made independently, taking into account all the features and parameters of your own figure.

Working men's overalls refers to special clothing for universal use, which is m it can be used in a wide variety of situations, both at work and at home.. At the same time, at some enterprises its wearing is obligatory.

Distinctive features of this form of clothing are:

Practicality. Work overalls are made of durable, non-marking fabric that is easy to care for.
Functionality.
Convenience.

Purpose of its use:

Protection against high or low temperatures, radioactive and electromagnetic effects.
Prevention of injuries due to sparks and flames.
Ensuring comfort when working with fatty substances, oils, petroleum products, acids and other chemicals and compounds.
Protection against dust and other industrial pollution.

Scopes of application:

In construction;
When performing installation work (at enterprises of various profiles, in auto repair shops);
In the food industry;
When performing welding and electrical work;
In the chemical, furniture and processing industries;
In agriculture, etc.

Uniform requirements

The first overalls for workers appeared in America, where they were made of durable and practical denim, which was fastened at the main seams with decorative lines of threads of a contrasting shade.

Since that time, denim has gained incredible popularity, and a work suit began to be used in various industries, practically without changing its appearance and “surviving” to the present.

Features of the cut

Traditionally, such workwear as men's work overalls are available in two versions:

In the form of semi-overalls. It has the appearance of pants with straps and an additional section of fabric sewn in the front and with a height up to chest level. Most often equipped with a jacket.
In the form of overalls. It looks like a one-piece suit of a direct silhouette, consisting of pants sewn with a jacket, without grooves and reliefs. A fit in the waist area is achieved through the use of a hidden drawstring, which can be either fixed or not fixed.

Materials

The choice of material for the manufacture of men's work overalls depends on the specifics of its further use. The most common ones are:

. It is a kind of white non-woven fabric on a polymer basis. It is characterized by high strength, has low electrical conductivity. It is used for tailoring “disposable overalls” used in the food and chemical industries, as well as in medical and pharmaceutical laboratories to protect underwear from tears and pollution.
- dense, wear-resistant fabric with a diagonal thread weaving. It has high air permeability, provides optimal thermal exchange of the skin of the employee, creates a comfortable microclimate for him to work in any conditions.
with cotton base. Resistant to deformation, most comfortable to wear.
Tyvek. Another material of artificial origin, synthesized from polymer fibers. It has increased strength and ductility. Designed for the manufacture of work clothes with a high degree of protection.

In addition, for use in special conditions special types of materials with certain sets of qualities, eg:

Water resistant;
Fire resistance;
Improved thermal protection;
Airtight;
Reflective properties.

Materials with the listed characteristics are used for tailoring overalls operating in conditions of increased danger. In particular, products with reflective elements are used in road construction.

Additional items

As a rule, this type of clothing is equipped with various elements that make it possible to use it even more convenient and comfortable.

Most often it is patch pockets with one or several sectionslocated on the chest, hips and back of the pants, fastened with flaps using buttons. At the same time, the back pockets usually have reinforcement at the bottom.

Exception: Spunbond models made without any finishing elements.characterized by uniform structure and smoothness. They do not have pockets and valves and are only equipped with a removable protective hood.

As a fastener in overalls can be used buttons, buttons or zippers. Closure option: front or side. Sleeves on a cuff. The knees and elbows may have additional reinforcing pads.

DIY Measurement and Cutting Instructions

Overalls for own needs can be purchased in a special store or made independently. For this you need ( for cutting a male model for height 170 cm, size 48):

Blended fabric (half cotton with polymer) - 3 m (web width 1.5 m).
75 centimeter lightning (with two locks: lower and upper).
One zipper 16 cm, 19 cm and 28 cm long; 2 pcs. 20 cm on the pockets.
Adhesive tape 2 cm wide - 40 cm.
2 buttons.
Rubber-based ribbon 4 cm wide - 80 cm.

Elements of the pattern of male work overalls:

Two shelves.
Pockets to it: right, with 16 centimeter zippers, and a sewn pocket with dimensions: 8 x 13 cm - 1 pc. One left pocket. Valves to it - 2 pcs.
One back.
Flirty - 1 with a fold.
One pocket with a zipper 28 cm on the back.
Sleeves, front and rear elements - 2 pcs.
Lining reinforcing on the elbows - 2 pcs.
Fold cuff - 2 pcs.
Gate - 1 pc.
Back of the neckline - 1 pc.
Thinning of the neck and subboard - 1 pc.
The front and rear halves of the trousers - 2 pcs.
Power Seat - 1 pc.
Kneepads - 2 pcs.
Burlap sack for pockets of slotted type (zipper 20 cm) on the front shelf of trousers - 4 pcs.
Side pocket with a zipper 18 cm.
Sash - 2 parts.
Loops - 4 pcs.
Pants gusset - 1 pc.

Allowances: at the seams - 1 cm, at the bottom of the trousers - 4 cm, at the entrance of the pockets - 2.5 cm.

Do you know how to choose this one correctly so as not to make a mistake and provide yourself with warmth when working in cold conditions?

All about men's work coats you will find: how to choose them, and their varieties, and the requirements for tailoring.

A detailed description of the uniform for firefighters and its classification.

Sequencing:

And about how to sew semi-overalls, see this video tutorial:

Care Rules

Since the material from which working overalls are made is usually characterized by high wear resistance and practicality, look after them is simple enough and not difficult. Blended products can be dry cleaned and machine washed at a temperature of 60 degrees. They can be ironed and steamed.

Some types of work overalls for men (for example, from spunbond) are intended for single use.

Therefore, after use, they must be disposed of in the prescribed manner. Special this applies to work clothing in contact with toxic and radioactive substances.

Thus, it can be noted that the working men's jumpsuit is one of the most convenient and popular types of workwear used in everyday life and in production. Due to its protective properties, versatility and practicality, it is widely used in industry.

In addition, it can be made independently, taking into account all the features of your figure and the nature of the work in which it will be used in the future.

Learning to sew a summer jumpsuit without a pattern is very simple. One-piece overall jumpsuit. No tucks. The seams are almost all straight. Armhole - raglan. On a belt it is stitched with an elastic band. Any sufficiently thin soft fabric will do. Fabrics will be required - the length of the product is plus 15 cm with a standard width of 150 cm. Since the jumpsuit is wide and elastic, it is almost dimensionless. Using the entire width of the fabric, you can sew 52-size jumpsuits. You will also need a lace of a suitable color for strapless - 1 meter and a spool of rubber thread in a braided thread. They are sold in sewing stores.

Video How to learn how to sew a summer jumpsuit without a pattern

How to draw a drawing of a summer jumpsuit

We don’t need a large pattern, but there will only be a small drawing drawn on a sheet in a box at a scale of 1:10. Here he is:

Isn’t it just that? In the picture you see your piece of fabric.

How to cut a summer jumpsuit

Fold the fabric in half along the front side inward along a vertical blue line and lay it on a large table. Chalk or thin bar of soap on the ruler draw what is painted in red. Curved lines draw your hands. I remind you that 1 cell in the figure is 5 cm on the fabric. Left front, right back. The back is wider than the front in the widest part by 10 cm. The point of intersection of the four lines is located at a distance of the length of the foot on the inside plus 5 cm. The upper part of the jumpsuit is made quite long to get an overlap on the belt. On the front, the top of the overalls is 5 cm shorter than the back. Pay attention to the curved lines. The front line is steeper, the back more gentle. Cut out.

How to sew a summer jumpsuit

We sweep the side seams starting from the bottom, but not to the end, but leaving about 25 cm for the armholes. Sweep the inner seams of the legs. We sweep the back seam to the very top. We sweep the front seam, but not to the end, but leaving about 15 cm. This will be a cut for the fastener.

Try on overalls. Adjust the depth of the armholes and cut in front. Sew seams. Zigzag the seams. To process the armholes and cut in the front, double-bend the edge half an inch, bast and stitch. Wrap the upper edge of the back first half a centimeter, then 1.5 cm, bast and stitch. Do the same with the top edge of both parts of the front. Insert the lace so that it is tied in front. Try on overalls. Mark the place where the elastic will be sewn, taking into account the overlap. It can be on the belt or below the belt as desired. The lines along which you will be scribing, it is better to draw in chalk on the fabric in advance. If the chalk erases, you can outline these lines and scribble along the outline.

But first you need to learn how to scribble with an elastic band. It is very simple. You wind the rubber thread over the bobbin and insert it into the shuttle, as it will be your bottom thread. The upper thread should be the color of the fabric. You will be scribbling on the front. This works out very well on any sewing machine. But first, practice the shred. You just slowly scribble a little stretching the already stitched part of the seam, as it immediately begins to fold. Adjust the machine so that the stitches are medium or large.

Sew the elastic along the intended line. Sew again about 1.5 cm from the first stitch. When sewing a second time, stretch the previous seam to make it comfortable for you to sew. Try on overalls. Adjust the leg length. Tuck the bottom edge twice, bast and stitch.

The jumpsuit is ready!

You will see that learning to sew a summer jumpsuit without a pattern is very simple!

Although many claim that jumpsuits are uncomfortable and impractical, I still disagree with this. There is something attractive in this item of ladies' wardrobe, and if so, then it should be in the wardrobe of every woman.

However, overalls are such a thing that is not suitable for any figure, so some women find it difficult to choose it in the store. There is only one thing left - to sew the overalls with your own hands, tailoring the product to individual characteristics. I offer ready-made patterns of overalls two sizes 38 (M) and 40 (L). Sewing difficulty level is easy. Therefore, to sew such a thing is not difficult even for beginner craftswomen.

What is required:

Any lightweight fabric to choose from: silk crepe de chine, viscose cambric or cotton satin - 2.6 * 1.4 m,
Non-woven formband

Overalls pattern

Under the overalls photo, download the patterns, print in full size (scale 1: 1 or 100%) and transfer the details to the fabric. Step back 1.5 cm to allowances and 4 cm to hem.

Model A.Overalls of a classic cut.

Model B.Jumpsuit with detachable top on the straps.

How to sew a jumpsuit

Step 1. Sew shoulder seams on the bodice. For Model A, stitch the shoulder sections on the front and back hem. Iron the inside allowance over the inside cut. Sew it to all parts of the bodice. Unscrew the hem on the inside, iron the edges. Sew an internal ironed slice.

Step 2. For the model In both parts of the bodice, fold the front, aligning the middle. Fold the back of the bodice in the same way. Sweep sections.

Step 3. On the bodice, sew the side seams.

Step 4. Iron inside out allowances for cuts of armholes, tuck to a width of 1 cm and stitch.

Step 5. On the trousers, make side and step seams. Iron allowances on the rear halves. Put the halves in one another. Sew the front and back seams with one stitch. Flatten the allowances from the top to the rounding.

Step 6. Sew the bodice to the trousers in Model B.

Step 7. The allowances for the hem. iron the bottom inside out, tuck up to a width of 2 cm and stitch.

Overalls pattern with shorts (romper)

Romper will be a great option for the summer. The minimum on top is only straps, and the bottom is shorts. Pattern for sizes from 6 to 26, a table of sizes is attached below. There is no “waist” parameter in the table, since due to the peculiarities of the cut of this model, the “chest” parameters are identical to the “waist” parameter.

Size chart (gray numbers - inches, red - centimeters)

Patterns of summer overalls for women: drawings with calculations

Here are some more schemes for building a pattern of women's overalls with shorts and trousers. All calculations are indicated for a certain size (TAMANHO - translated from Portuguese as “size”). The size chart is slightly higher, under the finished patterns of overalls.

Let's start with patterns from Marlene Mukai. This plush home jumpsuit is what you need on cold winter evenings. Agree, warming yourself in such a plush jumpsuit is twice as comfortable as drinking hot coffee in your favorite armchair and watching an interesting movie.