Women's summer shirt to sew. Sew a shirt or blouse from A to Z
If you undertake to sew a man’s shirt, then you need to do this on a rating from “good” to “excellent”. Tune in to a good result, otherwise you shouldn’t even start sewing. A shirt for a man with his own hands is not out of poverty and not out of economy, but from a great love for your man and a desire to dress him, as in the best Neapolitan ateliers.
Smooth seams, no protruding threads, clear stitching, comfortable pattern. And a bunch of nuances that an ordinary person will not pay attention to, but we will consider them (and apply!) All.
Classic men's shirt sewing sequence
1. Tailor shirts.
In different models, the cut may contain the following details:
back, front halves -2 details, strap, yoke, collar, stand-up collar, sleeves, cuffs, pockets.
If you are having difficulty building a pattern, then take it, but remember that the best pattern is built individually.
Tip: when sewing a shirt, do not immediately cut the sleeves and collar. The fact is that after trying on, there will probably be corrections to the fit and increase in freedom (more / less). The armhole can be increased and a larger neckline can be made.
I cut out the details of the collar and sleeve after adjusting the fit and measuring the length of the neck and armhole. That's right.
the cloth. Cotton, linen. Gourmet silk. For sports polo shirts - cotton or viscose jersey. I am for natural fabrics, and I do not recommend using a mixture of cotton and polyester.
Seam allowances: side seams, bottom, sleeves - 1.2-1.5 cm each. Neckline, collar, cuffs - 0.8-1 cm each.
2. Strap
one-piece, trimmed or simple one-piece collar. I suppose to do separate master classes on all kinds of fasteners.
The width of the strap is convenient 3 - 3.5 cm. Do not forget to glue the board with a soft doubler, then the loops and buttons will be sharper and stronger.
3. Yoke
Explained in detail in the master class. You need to carve 2 equal parts of the coquette and sew them in such a way with the main parts of the back and front, so that all allowances for the seam are between the parts of the coquette. No overlock, of course. A well-tailored shirt generally does not have a single overlock seam.
4. invoice pocket on a shelf, if provided for in the shirt model. Master Class:.
5. Collar.
Most likely, you will sew a stand-up collar.
Before you cut the stand and collar, do not forget to measure the length of the neckline on an imaginary line of sewing. It is convenient to measure the neck when folded with a centimeter tape “on the edge”
measure the length of the neck.
To help you tailor your collar
If your model is a polo shirt, then to help - in the master class
6. to process a cut of a sleeve
At this stage, while the sleeves are still “open”, it is very convenient to outline and make a fastener in the form of a strap or simply to process the cut.
So you can process the section of the sleeve in a simple classical way.
The section of the sleeve is on the ulnar (back) part of the sleeve, approximately one quarter from the length of the lower section. Pinch or iron the tucks, equalizing the width of the sleeve at the bottom and the length of the cuff.
Bend the cut from the larger side of the cut inside out, no more than 2-3 mm and grind it to the cut point, reducing the allowance “to nothing”.
Turn the sleeve over to the wrong side and stitch the allowance of the second side of the cut, grabbing the first allowance at the end of the stitch in the hem, about 0.5 cm. It’s easier to see once than to read a hundred times:
There are a lot of options for fastening. Here is a whole series of master classes, choose according to taste and according to your abilities.
- - - classic plank
- – this is an imitation of the bar. It is easy to perform, but it looks pretty.
- – one of the easy options. A slanting inlay made of contrasting fabric will bring personality to the shirt or blouse.
7. Sew sleeve into armhole.
The sleeve is cut to a specific armhole. We measure the valley of the armhole and compare with the length of the ridge of the sleeve. But do not forget about the sleeve width! To the girth of the hand at the top, an increase in freedom of fit (PSO) of at least 4 centimeters is put.
The fact is that an okad fit in men's shirts is not necessary, but 1 cm permissible. And you need to select the following proportions in the sleeve: ”armhole length \u003d okat length / arm circumference at the top plus PSO. ”
This is not as easy as it seems. Increase the depth of the armhole, lower the height of the okata - if necessary. In a word, think and make a decision.we sew a sleeve with a seam, from inside. Moreover, the second line should go along the yoke, and not along the sleeve.
fit the okat no more than 1 cm
sew a sleeve into the armhole
sewing sleeve
the sleeve is sewn into the armhole8. Side seam.
It is carried out as a single line, grinding the side sections and the sleeve.
However, it is possible to interchange points 7 and 8, and this will also be correct: first - the side seams, and then - the sleeve into the armhole.
If the shirt is in a cage, then pay close attention to the combination of the picture.
seam from the inside
single seam of the sleeve and side
pattern matching9. Cuffs
Can be sewn:
men's shirt cuffand if you sew a shirt for a child or a women's blouse:
In this case, you do not have to process the incision.
10. Clasp: buttonhole, buttonhole.
Everything is simple here, the main thing is to make the markup at the same distance from each other and at least 1.5 cm from the edge of the side. Sew buttons “on the leg” using a regular toothpick.
His shirt is closer to the body. She is the basic thing in a ladies' wardrobe. No wonder this universal top for trousers and skirts is always included in a professional uniform. A fashionable women's shirt can be fitted or loose, of any color, with a pattern you like, fully repeat the cut of a man or be its diametrical opposite. The style is limited only by the hostess’s imagination or dress code requirements.
It remains only to sew a shirt with your own hands and wear it with pleasure!
Step One - Model and Fabric Selection
Women's shirt is much freer in choosing models, fabrics and patterns than men's. But still, it is better to sew it from natural or mixed fabrics (a little synthetics are always added to the shirt fabrics so that the product retains its appearance longer and does not wrinkle). The best choice is poplin.
If you are planning to use another fabric, then pay attention to its creasing, you can check this by tightly compressing the fabric in a fist for several seconds. If the folds quickly straightened out, then this is your option. The least crepes are wrinkled.
The pattern also matters: small elements and beautiful stitches are better visible, look better in laconic models and large figures. Classical or can be used not only traditionally, but also safely combined with other prints or creatively placed in a cut shirt.
Any silhouettes are suitable for a slender one, for a full figure it is better to choose a semi-adjacent silhouette and opaque fabrics. Just remember that atlases and shiny fabrics treacherously emphasize volumes.
For office options, classic (plain or with a dull pattern) and muted tones are best suited. Silhouettes - semi-adjacent or moderately loose with a minimum amount of detail and decoration. Such shirts fit best in the wardrobe of a business lady. By the way, even to the most boring office shirt, you can sew a removable frill, tie or bow tie from the same fabric and change the image depending on the situation. Women's shirts from can be used as clothing for special occasions.
If the dress code is not a decree for you, then the field for experiments is unlimited!
Strictly
Classic
Juicy
Romantically
Step Two - Pattern Women's Shirt
It is most relevant to sew a classic shirt in a semi-adjacent silhouette with a stand-up collar, a yoke on the back and long sleeves with cuffs. You will need a proven foundation of an adjacent silhouette. All modeling is the translation of the chest tuck into the side seam and the modeling of the yoke by translating the tuck into the armhole on the back.
You can find a suitable pattern in the magazine Burda 2015-2016 Autumn-Winter.
Step Three - Cut and Sew
A sewing machine with a straight stitch (or elastic, if the fabric is with elastane), an overlock (or a zig-zag stitch), a good mood - that's all you need!
Before we open natural fabrics, be sure to wash them, as they shrink! When buying fabrics made of cotton, silk, viscose, add 5-10 cm for an emergency. For fabrics with a pattern, another 10-15 cm will be required for the possibility of combining the pattern or its most favorable location.
Allowances for seams and hem bottom - 1.5 cm. We transfer all the marks (middle of the front, back, collar) to the fabric, mark the location of the pockets with hand stitches with contrasting threads (they are then removed).
We sew in this order:
- duplicate the pick, perform tucks on the shelf;
- we process the details of the pockets and sew them according to the marking to the shelf;
- we connect the yoke and the back part, we perform tucks;
- perform shoulder seams;
- duplicate and collect collar details;
- we sharpen the collar or draw a neck with a grind;
- we sew sleeves;
- we connect the bottom seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the product with one seam;
- we process and sew cuffs;
- we are bending the bottom of the product;
- we sew out loops, sew buttons.
We collect compliments!
The shirt is considered a classic of fashion. It looks great in both formal and inactive environments, is an indicator of good taste and elegance. A self-sewn shirt can fill up a woman’s wardrobe or become a great gift for her beloved man.
Buy a cloth. It is advisable to take not too thick and not too thin material. Then the shirt will be easy to sew, and the finished product will sit well on the figure. Fabric consumption with a width of 150 cm equals one length of the back and one sleeve length + 0.4 m, with a width of 110 cm is two lengths of the back + one length of the sleeve + 0.5 m. strap, stand-up collar. Make a paper shirt pattern. It can be re-taken from magazines or downloaded from the Internet and printed using a printer. There is one more way. Spread the old shirt, iron the parts and circle their contours on paper. Cut out the details of the paper pattern with scissors. Transfer the pattern to the fabric. To do this, fold the material in half and pin the paper parts with pins. Position the front part at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge, or 6 cm if the shirt has a one-piece bar. Place the middle of the back, collar and stand of the collar on the fold of fabric. Pockets and flaps do not have to be cut out on a split. The bar can be solid-cut or consist of two parts. Her details are also cut out in any direction. If the fabric is checkered or striped, do not forget to match the pattern. After adding 1.5 cm along all edges (seam allowances), cut the parts with scissors. In order not to spoil the shirt, first seam with a needle and thread and try on the product. If everything suits you, sew a seam on a typewriter. If there are yokes, stitch them to the main details. Sew tucks. Treat the middle section of the front with a bar, previously strengthening it with non-woven. Stitch the shoulder seams.
Following our instructions, you can easily sew a shirt for yourself or someone close to you. It takes only a little time, patience and accuracy.
The shirt, being an exclusively male piece of clothing, today has become an integral part of the women's wardrobe. Women's shirt goes well with jeans, skirts, vests, trench coats and coats.
The white shirt is refreshing and elegant. She never goes out of style. Along with a small black dress, a classic women's shirt has the status of a cult thing.
Ideally, she repeats the men's shirt and looks a bit larger in size, which gives fragility to its owner. A woman’s shirt is usually sewn without tucks, but options are possible: it can be more tight-fitting, with tucks or reliefs, from a cambric, good quality cotton or silk. If you sew a women's shirt with your own hands from a fabric into a cage, you get a cowboy shirt, from a fabric with a large floral pattern - Hawaiian.
In order not to repeat and teach you something new, the processing of some knots has been changed in the workshop “How to sew a women's shirt”.
For the basis on which we sew a women's shirt with our own hands, we take the pattern of model 120 from Burda 10/2016: 
At my 38th size, I took a pattern a size smaller - 36 pp. The shirt model turned out to be quite voluminous, especially in the shoulder girdle. It does not matter which pattern to take, all shirts are sewn in general the same way.
YOU WILL NEED:
Shorter fabric - 1.5 m with a width of 140 cm;
- Non-woven - 30 cm;
- Buttons - 10 pcs.;
- tailor's scissors;
- Oblique trim for decoration;
- Threads and needle for sewing;
- tailor pins;
- tracing paper;
- A pencil or felt-tip pen for a marking;
- Ruler.
STEP 1. PREPARING A WOMEN'S SHIRT PATTERN
I had to shorten the pattern in length. 
Since the bottom of the shirt is curly, I laid the transverse fold on the pattern above the bottom line, so as not to change it. 
The sleeve is shortened in the middle of the sleeve, again in order not to change the bottom line with the markings, because the bottom of the sleeve is designed for the length of the cuff. 
Often, a stitched bar is given in a magazine. Whenever possible, I replace it with one-piece, it greatly simplifies its processing. 
To do this, the paper part of the plank must be glued to the part of the shelf and add another width to get a double plank (plank with two gates). The second flap of the strip replaces the adhesive strip, which, again, simplifies the work.
STEP 2. OPEN 
We carve out the details of the shirt with the same allowances for all cuts of 1.5 cm.
IMPORTANT! PANKS CARRY OUT WITHOUT ALLOWANCES.
The shirt has a lot of small parts that strengthen the glue, so it is better to first mark the location of these parts (racks, collars and cuffs) on the fabric, then cut this piece of fabric and strengthen it with glue. And only then cut out all the small details from the glued fabric. So the work is accelerated, and the cut is more accurate.
IN THE WOMEN'S SHIRT, IT IS NECESSARY TO STRENGTHEN THIN GLUE ALL THE COUPLE PARTS OF THE STAND, COOL AND CUFF TOGETHER WITH GRAYS.
For these purposes, the adhesive G785, as well as the non-woven H180 and their analogues are perfectly suitable. Duplicate material should be thin and ductile, unlike a men's shirt.
Then we mark out all the allowances on small parts using glue.
STEP 3. PROCESSING PLANS
Planks are processed primarily after cutting, even before the first fitting, because they do not affect the fit of the product. 
To do this, you need to peel off or bend the paper strip on the pattern and use an iron, without breaking the pattern, iron the strip twice on the wrong side of the shelf first on one part, then turn the shelves and iron the strip on another part. Stick the planks on a shelf. 
Then stitch the planks on a shelf 1 mm from the fold (to the edge) and mark the loops and buttons with the aquamarker on them. This is for fitting. Loops go along the bar and in the middle of it.
DON'T FORGET THAT ON THE PATTERNS IN THE MAGAZINE THE MARKING THE LOOP IS DAN AT THE SMALLEST SIZE! Consider this when removing the pattern.
STEP 4 
Lay a crease along the back and sew it according to the allowance. This will fix her. Sweep the shirt for the first fitting. It is enough for her to notice only one detail of the coquette. The second coquette is sewn after fitting. Measure the shirt, fit it to the figure.
STEP 5. PROCESSING KOKETOK
In order to sew the second yoke, you have to dissolve the basting on the sides after trying 
Lay the shirt on the table face up. 
Roll up the back detail on the yoke. 
Roll up the shelves details on the yoke. 
Face down, lay the second yoke and chop off with the lower yoke. The twisted parts of the shelves and the back remain inside, between the coquette. 
Stitch the flirts details. Trim allowances to 5-7 mm. 
To turn out coquette, to pull out details of shelves and backs out through a mouth.
Iron the seams of the yoke. Stitch them on the front of the shirt, if necessary according to the model.
STEP 6. HANDLING PROCESSING 
Fold the collar parts face to face, chip them and grind them according to the marking. Cut allowances in corners up to 1 mm from the stitch and cut to 5 mm. 
Iron the collar allowances on the block. 
Unscrew collar, iron without adapter piping and sew along edge. 
Trim the bottom allowance on one part of the stand. 
Turn over the trimmed bottom cut. To do this, lay a slanting inlay from the finishing fabric (I have a tie silk) and stitch it on the lower section of the rack 5-6 mm from the edge. 
Wrap a section of the rack with an edge and iron it.
Lay the line exactly in the seam of the inlay of the inlay (immediately under the oblique inlay), grabbing the second cut of the inline from the inside. 
Tilt the stand without the beik face on the lower collar. Combine the cuts, the middle, check the symmetry of the ends of the rack, folding the collar in half with the pin attached. 
From the side of the upper collar, lay the edged stand face down. 
Stitch up, grabbing the collar between them. Tolerances in rounding cut to 1 mm, in other areas up to 7 mm. 
To turn out racks, to iron without transition edging.
IMPORTANT! CLEARING Either the collar, or stand separately so that the collar does not lose the shape. 
On the upper rack, draw a line for sharpening the collar.
STEP 7. Sewing the collar 
Mark the middle of the rack and the middle of the collar. Insert the collar into the neckline on the front of the shirt, combining the middle, ends of the collar and strap, as well as marks on the shoulder seams. Stitch the collar in the neck, laying the line exactly along the marked line. 
Cut the seam allowances at the ends of the collar, iron the allowances on the rack. 
Tilt the second post over the seam so as to overlap the stitch. 
Design the rack so that the marking runs on one side along the edge of the oblique inlay, and on the other hand, into the seam of the stitching of the collar. At the corners of the collar, the pins are best left to better secure the stand. 
Lay the line exactly at the edge of the inlay. Finally iron the rack.
STEP 8. PROCESSING A SHIRT FIGURE NIZE
You can process the bottom of the shirt in a classic way, twisting the allowances twice and stitching them. But my bottom shelves are much shorter than the bottom of the back, so it’s better to process it separately for the shelves and back. 
Fold two shelves, check the symmetry of the bottom, cut it in case of unevenness.
Fold shelves with back. Where the rounding of the bottom ends, make 5–7 mm notches for the allowances. This will be the end of the side seam. 
Turn over the bottom of the shelves and backrest separately with an oblique edging (just like the rack, you only need to tuck the second section of the edging). Bend the ends of the tape inward.
STEP 9. CUTS OF THE SLEEVE 
Cut the bottom of the sleeve according to the marking. 
Turn over with an oblique collar the side of the cut that is closer to the sleeve seam. 
Make a cut strip pattern. The width of the strap in the cut is 4 cm (2 cm in finished form).
The length of the strap is 3 cm more than the length of the cut. The top of the bar can be made as a corner, and straight. 
Cut out planks with 1 cm allowances. 
Fold the slats in half, grind the upper corner according to the marking (3 cm above the cut).
Cut allowances in the corners and cut to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch for the allowance. 
To turn out levels, to iron. Lay the finishing line along the bend of the bar to the height of the cut. 
From the front side of the sleeve, lay and stitch the bar on the second side of the cut. Notch allowance above the line. 
To iron the allowance inside the placket, chop the second fold of the plank over the seam of the grind. 
Chop the bar over the cut and sew on the cut along the edge and top corner. 
Here's what happened.
STEP 10. HOSE INSIDE 
To the front side sleeves sweep okat allowances to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them. 
Insert the sleeve into the armhole so that the allowance of the armhole does not protrude beyond the fold of the sleeve allowance. 
Stitch the sleeve into the armhole for 6-7 mm from the fold of the sleeve allowance. Important! The line must be at the same distance from the bend of the allowance, otherwise the seam will be uneven. 
Iron seam allowances on the armhole, chop and sweep. 
Sew an armhole allowance exactly along the edge of the allowance bend. 
View of the sleeved sleeve from the face of the shirt.
STEP 11. LATERAL SEAMS 
Fold the allowances of the side seam and the seam of the sleeve so that one allowance protrudes 6-7 mm behind the other, chop them and grind 6-7 mm from the smaller cut.
You can stack the allowances evenly, but then you will have to cut one allowance. The first way is simpler and faster. 
Press the protruding allowance to a smaller one. 
Then lay out the parts of the shelf and back, iron the allowances, then chop on the seam and sew on the details of the sleeve and shelf. 
On the front side, a seam with stitching was obtained. Sewing stitch with two lines from the inside.
STEP 12. PROCESSING THE CUFF 
On the outer cuff, iron the bottom allowance to the inside and sew it 1 cm from the fold. 
Fold the cuff details face to face and grind them along the markings. Tolerances in rounding cut to 1 mm, the rest to 5-6 mm from the line. 
Iron allowances on the block, like a collar. Unscrew the cuff and iron without adapter piping. On the fold line of the outer part, draw a line for attaching the cuff. 
Stitch the cuff along the outer edge, starting and ending stitching at the bottom transverse stitch! 
Lay folds along the bottom of the sleeve. On the front side, the folds of the folds look at the section of the sleeve. 
Insert the cuff into the sleeve from the inside out! Stitch the cuff according to the marking. Cut seam allowances at the corner at the ends of the cuff. 
Iron the cuff allowances. Pull the rolled edge of the cuff on the front side of the sleeve, overlapping the stitching line. 
Stitch the cuff around the edge of the fold. It turns out that on the front side of the cuff has two parallel finishing lines on the bottom.
STEP 13. LOOPS 
Punch loops on the marking, sew on buttons. The loops on the bar go in the middle and along the bar, on the bar - along the bar, on the cuff - along the cuff and 5-7 mm from its short edge. The length of the buttonhole is equal to the diameter of the button plus 2 mm. 
2018-04-26 Maria Novikova
For beginning tailors, it seems difficult to sew a men's shirt. Therefore, you have to abandon the idea of \u200b\u200btailoring a shirt with your own hands. Just imagine how many options for models of men's shirts you can sew yourself. Starting from classical to historical. In this workshop I will tell you how to sew a men's shirt in the style of the 19th century. This sewing technology will help you sew not only a historical, but also a modern model. On its basis, you will step by step master the knowledge and experience of tailoring a men's shirt with a long sleeve.
You will need:
- The main fabric (staple or cotton fabric) - 1.80 - 2.0 m.
- Glued adhesive collar fabric - 20.0 cm.
- Cushioning woven adhesive fabric - 20.0 cm.
- Buttons - 9 - 10 pcs.
- Thread - 4 pcs.
- Tailor pins and other sewing accessories.
- Sewing machine, overlock, iron.
Model selection
The shirt style was not chosen by chance. It was such a model that the groom needed for a thematic wedding in the style of Jen Austen. At that time, a romantic style in clothing was popular. Men wore loose, long shirts or shirts with lush sleeves and high starched collars.
Around the collar was tied a neckerchief several times. In front, its ends were tied in a bow or a large knot. The high collar and the multi-layered shawl, sometimes led to the fact that half of the face was buried in this abundance. At that time, a white starched collar, a carelessly tied scarf and an elegant brooch were considered a sign of style and good taste.
Read more about a man’s neck scarf, and how it is worn in the modern world, read.
My customer wished to have a romantic-style shirt in his wardrobe to match the bride and her empire-style dress. This is how the idea of \u200b\u200bcreating a historical shirt of the 19th century using modern materials and technologies was born.
Material selection
For sewing a shirt, a staple fabric was chosen (this is a cotton fabric with elastane). There were also applicants cotton-stretch, but such a fabric is crumpled. The staple is perfectly draped, which is perfect for this model, besides it does not wrinkle so much. He is pleasant, gentle to the body and almost weightless.
On the cuffs, yoke, collar and straps had to use another fabric, ordinary cotton, which came in shade. The fact is that the last staple flap remained in the store, and it was enough only for the main details. Therefore, it was decided to take the last flap and ordinary cotton on small parts. Moreover, its dense structure is just what is needed to give clear details to the details.
As a pad for the collar, I chose a dense collar adhesive fabric. Due to its dense structure, it will give the collar a stiff look, and you do not have to starch the collar.
For cuffs and straps, I used glue fabric on a woven basis. It is denser than the usual “gauze” adhesive and holds its shape remarkably. In structure, this fabric resembles gabardine with glue chips applied on top. It behaves wonderfully in work, does not come off and you do not need to use an iron.
Cut shirts
Cut Details:
- Shelf - 2 parts.
- Back - 2 parts (due to lack of fabric, it is possible to make one-piece).
- Coquette - 2 parts.
- Sleeve - 2 parts.
- Cuff - 2 parts.
- Cuff gasket - 2 parts.
- Plank - 2 parts.
- Laying for a lath - 2 details.
- Collar - 2 parts.
- Collar gasket - 1 part.
- Stand Collar - 2 parts.
- Stand for collar - 1 part.
Description of the model: men's shirt in the style of the 19th century from cotton, white fabric, loose fit. The back and shelves at the top are arranged on a yoke, this gives the product additional volume, and also serves as a decor. Sleeves elongated on the cuff, loose due to the assembly on the ridge and bottom. The clasp of the shirt is finished with plackets with buttons, the figured collar is on the counter.
- On the pattern of the back and shelves, draw a line of coquette. On the back, the coquette will be wider than on the shelf: the width of the coquette on the shelf is 2.0 - 3.0 cm, on the back 10.0 - 12.0 cm.
- Cut along the intended lines (it is better to make a duplicate of the pattern in advance).
- On men's shirts, the shoulder seam is shifted to the shelf (as such, it is not). Take the parts of the yoke backs and shelves, glue them along the shoulder seam. You will receive a finished part of the coquette for the back and shelf without a shoulder seam.
- To get the assembly on the back and on the shelf, make an increase of 4.0 - 6.0 cm. At the top of the armholes to the side and slide it smoothly down. How to simulate a sleeve with an assembly on the okat and bottom, you will find in my previous article.
- Lay out the finished patterns on the fabric, circle and add allowances:
- lateral, shoulder seams, middle seam, armholes, ridge and sleeve seam - 1.0 - 1.5 cm .;
- the upper section of the shelf, back and yoke - 1.0 cm;
- the neck, sides and bottom of the sleeve - 0.7 cm .;
- the bottom of the product is 1.5 - 2.0 cm.
6. Remove the pattern, check the length / width of the product and the sleeves. If everything is correct, cut out the details with allowances. At this stage, small parts (collar, strap, cuffs) are not cut out, but their layouts are made. Since during the fitting, changes may occur, and then the cut out details will have to be redone.
Technology for sewing men's shirts
Before proceeding to sewing, you need to check the availability of cut details. If everything is correct, then you can start sewing a men's shirt. In individual tailoring, after cutting, the first fitting is always performed. To make adjustments to the model and get a general idea of \u200b\u200bthe future product.
Trying is carried out primarily for the customer, sometimes customers who do not understand sewing, can not imagine the whole picture. And an experienced tailor sees the result of the finished product immediately in the mind. Therefore, the first fitting is very important, especially if the product is non-standard with various finishing elements. Remember! The maximum result depends on the quality of the fitting and the general understanding with the client.
Preparation for the first fitting
Stitch or sweep the middle seam on the back (if any). Assemble the assembly along the upper cut of the back and shelves, sweep with one part of the yoke (the second is not needed yet). Assemble the assembly at the hem and bottom of the sleeves. Sweep the sleeves into the open armhole, sweep the seams on the sleeves and side seams in one go. Cut out cuffs and a collar from mock fabric. Sew cuffs to the sleeves and sweep the collar.
First fitting
Unfortunately, there is no photo of fitting this shirt. Therefore, the following photos will be a men's shirt made of silk fabric, a classic model (the fitting process is almost the same). Put the shirt on the figure and chop the shelves in the center, combining the bottom and top. Change the volume of the shirt if you need to take the excess into the side seams.
In the photo, trying on a sleeveless shirt. In the classic model, the sleeves can be pinned during the fitting (right sleeve) to clarify the shoulder line. In men, this point is usually a little down, it depends on the model.
- if the model is very fitted, the final shoulder rises up (as in female products);
- if the model is free, then the shoulder point goes down, so the shoulder turns down;
- if this is not done, for example, to lower the shoulder strongly in the fitted model, then horizontal folds from the armhole will appear, and the shoulders will look too wide.
After that, specify the length and width of the sleeves, as well as the length and shape of the bottom. Pay attention to the shape of the collar, the depth of the neck (front and back) and the size of the cuffs. After trying on, lay the product on a flat surface and note all changes. How to conduct the first fitting, you will learn from my article:.
Yoke processing
Stitch the middle seam, overcast the cut and iron the allowance.
Found unfamiliar words? Then refer to and.
Assemble the top cut to the assembly and fit the assembly to the yoke.
The yoke is double, so first we process one part, then the second. Take one part of the yoke, align the front side with the wrong side of the back, pin with pins and stitch.
Here is the result:
Assemble the upper sections of the shelves for assembly and fit the assembly under the yoke.
Stitch the shelves with a back yoke, iron the yoke allowances without touching the assembly with an iron.
Then sew the second part of the yoke into the back seam. To do this, align the yoke and back with the front sides inward, pin with pins and stitch the joints of the first yoke into the seam. Thus, the seam should be between two coquette. Remove the assembly threads, seam the edging at the seam into a split and iron it without breaking the assembly.
Take off the flies of the coquette to the shelves. To do this, bend the cuts by 1.0 cm and bite to the shelves, closing the previous seam by 0.1-, 0.2 cm.
Lay the finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the fold. The front seam on the yoke should cover the seam of the connection with the yoke.
Carefully iron the seams without touching the assembly.
Strip processing
Planks are cut along the length of the sides of the shelves, the width when cutting is 6.5 - 7.5 cm. Also, each plank is glued with an adhesive strip. The width of the 1st gasket is half the width of the bar, the length is the same. On the wrong side, glue the adhesive pads onto the strips with an iron. Then iron the slats in half along the front.
Stitch the strips to the sides of the shelves in one layer, first the side with the gasket. To do this, align the front side of the strap with the front side of the board, chip and grind the strap 0.5 - 0.7 cm.
To avoid thickening at the seams, manually peel off the gasket allowance and cut it to the seam. Iron the stock allowance.
Then bend and take a free cut of the bar to the product, closing the seam by 0.1 - 0.2 cm.
On the front side of the strip, lay the finishing line 0.1 cm from the seam, so that the hem comes under the seam.
Sew a trim stitch along the edge of 0.1 cm.
At the end of the work, remove the temporary threads and iron the trims.
Sewing a shirt collar
The collar consists of upper and lower collars. Cut out from the main fabric 2 collar parts, 2 rack parts, 1 funnel part and stands from collar adhesive fabric. Parts from cushioning fabric should be 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Smaller than the main ones. The lower collar is 0.2 - 0.3 cm. Smaller than the upper. The stand of the collar is cut out along the length of the neck, the collar is 1.25 - 1.5 cm shorter than the stand (in half size).
Glue the upper collar and stand with adhesive.
Connect the upper and lower collars with pins, then grind with a seam width of 0.5 cm.
Cut corners, turn them on the front side, straighten corners, sweep out the edging at the expense of the upper collar and iron.
Lay on the collar the finishing line 0.1 cm from the edge. Remove the stitching threads and iron again.
Connect the stand to the collar (the one with the gasket) on the lower collar side. Then take the second part of the rack and connect from the upper collar. Stitch on the machine, turning the rounding of the rack.
Turn to the front side, the seam should be inside.
Collar to neckline
Insert the collar with the stand into the neck, align the centers of the collar with the center of the back, the ends of the stand with the sides of the shelves. Sweep and stitch the collar in the neck from the upper collar, the seam width is 0.7 cm.
Fold the free section of the lower collar stand and bite to the neck, overlapping the sewing in seam by 0.1 - 0.2 cm. Then, sweep the edging into the split along the stand.
Lay stitches 0.1 cm across the stand, securing the folded section.
Remove the temporary threads and iron the seams.
Cutting on sleeves
To process cuts on the sleeves, it is necessary to cut an oblique braid or trim for processing. A slanting inlay is cut out at an angle of 45 degrees from the main fabric along the length of the cut, 3.5 cm wide.
To make an incision, fold the sleeves together, step back from the elbow seam of the sleeve 6.0 - 7.0 cm (from the back or the back half). Draw up a perpendicular of 10.0 - 12.0 cm. Cut along the marked line.
Turn the cut over with an oblique trim.
From the wrong side, secure the top of the cut at an angle.
Gently iron the cut from the front side, but do not drive the iron back and forth, otherwise stretch the trim.
Similarly, process the incision on the second sleeve.
Sleeve connection
Sweep and stitch the sleeves in an open armhole, overcast the sections from the side of the product.
Treat sleeve seams and side seams in one go. Iron allowances on the back.
Handling the bottom of the sleeves with cuffs
From the main fabric, cut the cuffs, glue half the cuffs with glue and grind the edges. The cuff is a rectangle with a width of 16.0 cm. (With allowances), length 28.0 cm. (The length depends on the circumference of the wrist, it is specified by fitting).
Assemble the bottom of the sleeve to the assembly and connect the cuff to the sleeve. Align the front of the cuff (the one with the gasket) with the front of the sleeve and pin it with pins.
In the era of romanticism, the gentleman was required to change the coat in three weeks, a hat every month, shoes every week. To become a full-fledged “secular lion” and “dandy”, it was necessary to comply with all these requirements that wealthy people could afford. The ability to sew clothes with their own hands largely solves the financial problem with the purchase of clothing. Due to your desire, you can sew with your own hands any shirt for your man or for yourself.
In the XIX century, men were decided to look elegant and tidy. The mods of that time did not skimp on expensive and high-quality clothes. They generously spent time and money on acquiring a trendy item. Fashion magazines recommended modern goldfinches to have a couple of three toilets for every day.
Every year, fashion offered new colors in a suit, and new accessories. Sometimes the mods went into debt to comply with all the rules of etiquette. Now you can see a man in an expensive suit, only in business circles, where there is a strict dress code for appearance. To sew a jacket, as in the photo, my master class will help you:.
During the period of romanticism in a men's suit there was "romantic negligence." This is the ability to wear a suit with a collar open on the shirt, loose hair, an open coat, etc. Such a laid-back manner of wearing clothes meant independence from everyday trifles and secular foundations. First of all, people preferred to see intellectual qualities.
I hope this article helps you make your dream a reality, and I will be pleased to see your subscription and your comment.
P.S. Do you like the master class ?!
Sincerely, Maria Novikova.
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