Modeling a dress with lowered sleeves. Dresses with one-piece sleeves: modeling and tailoring

Handmade tailoring - exciting activity. If you are good at sewing, then you have a chance not only to make a thing of one style or another, but also to make it truly original. In addition, a self-sewn item is ideally suited to the characteristics of your figure and will cost much less than a purchased item. The topic of today's article is a dress pattern with one-piece sleeve. This thing is good for both work and romantic date, and for the holiday.

Features of the cut

Designing a pattern is not at all difficult. Just spend a little time on this work, approach it responsibly, and then the result will be excellent. The simplicity of the cut is explained by the fact that working with a one-piece sleeve is much easier than with a set-in one.

Important! The material can be anything, but for light dress It is best to use thin, flowing material (for example, chiffon). To prevent the fabric from showing through, a lining of opaque fabric is sewn under the bottom. If the product is unlined, then wear it over a T-shirt with thin straps.

A one-piece sleeve is a sleeve that is cut out together with the back and front. That is, there is no seam between the bodice and the sleeve. The silhouette is very soft and feminine. If in some models with set-in sleeves the shoulders seem somewhat angular, then a one-piece sleeve gives an airiness to the figure.

Important! The sleeves, slightly tapered towards the wrists, emphasize the beauty and grace of the arm. The effect can be enhanced if you decorate the product with embroidery, beads or cuffs.

DIY dress with one-piece sleeves - possible options

First, let's decide on the sleeve length:

Sports women with beautiful hands, but with a wide shoulder line, products with short sleeves are suitable, as they will make the figure visually more harmonious.
Ladies with with full hands It is better to choose a style with elbow-length sleeves.
A ¾-length sleeve made of non-elastic material will help hide overly muscular arms.

Batwing cut

The name of the cut is due to the fact that in appearance such a sleeve vaguely resembles a bat wing. It has many advantages:

Versatility. This cut will suit women with different body types, different ages. Dresses with a tapered skirt that reach mid-thigh are suitable for slender girls. Choice overweight women- straight, floor-length models.
Product loose fit helps hide certain figure flaws - massive shoulders or overly full arms.
A smooth shoulder cut line will emphasize beautiful shape breasts Even small breasts will look expressive, and the tummy, on the contrary, will become almost invisible.

Important! Style “ bat” visually shortens the silhouette, so you should only wear the dress with high heels.

Choosing a style

A one-piece sleeve does not have to be wide. A tapered sleeve is usually cut out of elastic fabrics. Such products are used in sewing outerwear or jackets.

Cutout

The choice of neckline is entirely up to your taste. Everyday dresses look good with a boat neckline and drapery near the collar. The collar collar also looks great. An evening product is appropriate with deep neckline or a cutout on the back.

Important! Brave ladies who are confident in the beauty of their figure can experiment with a back neckline that reaches to the waist.

Textile

For dresses of this type, well-draped textiles are best suited. For outerwear, give preference to soft, dense material. Elegant dresses are made perfectly from satin, velvet, chiffon, natural silk.

Who is the style suitable for?

As already mentioned, models with one-piece sleeves are universal, suitable for both slender and plump ladies. Girls with a “triangular” figure balance a narrow bottom and a wide top. For women with a “masculine” figure, a one-piece sleeve adds femininity, grace and sophistication.

However, there are exceptions to the rule. One-piece sleeve is a taboo for women:

with large lush breasts;
with large facial features;
with an “apple” figure, with fat deposits in the chest and abdomen.

Straight dress with one-piece sleeves

You can make the base yourself or use a ready-made one. You can order the base from a professional seamstress and model various styles yourself.

Important! The same base is used for different types dresses - cut-off with a high waist, with a flared skirt, with reliefs, etc.

How to sew a dress with one-piece sleeves without a pattern?

We take the size of the canvas 2.0x1.5 m:

Fold the fabric in half so that you get a 1.0 x 1.5 m sheet.
Fold the fabric again. The side with a length of 1.0 m is the length of the product. The smaller side is a sleeve and ½ shelf.
Measure 7 cm from the top down and to the side. Draw a smooth line to create a neckline. If you extend the neck line to the side, you will get a boat neckline.

Important! Draw on fabric with chalk or soap. Moreover, the latter option is preferable, since the soap can be easily removed with an iron.

Set aside a quarter of the hip width from the middle, add 1 cm for the seam allowance.
Draw a line parallel to the middle of the fabric. For example, if the total hip circumference is 96 cm, then step back from the middle by 25 cm (24+1). You will get 2 shelves - front and back.
Step back 200 mm from the top fold - this will be the armhole line. Connect the armhole to the bottom using a smooth line.

Important! The batwing style features an armhole to the waist. The armhole line forms a semicircle.

We invite you to sew this delicate and airy dress with one-piece sleeves using our pattern. This pattern is quite simple to model and sewing takes less time, since a one-piece sleeve does not need to be sewn in.

When modeling a dress, all darts are also removed into folds, and a bell skirt with pleats at the waist creates a flying silhouette of the dress.

It is better to sew this dress from delicate chiffon with a floral pattern. To prevent the fabric from showing through, you need to line the dress or wear it over a long T-shirt (slip) with thin straps.

ADVICE! If you want to simplify your work, instead of chiffon, you can use thin calico or any other dress fabric.

From the main fabric, cut out:

Top front - 1 piece with fold

Top back - 1 piece with fold

Bell skirt - 2 parts

Seam allowances: 1.5 cm, bottom allowances: 2 cm.

How to sew a dress

Sweep and stitch shoulder seams dresses, right side seam. Process allowances.

Baste and stitch the right side seam of the skirt. . Gather the skirt along the waist edge to the length of the bottom edge of the bodice. Baste and stitch the top and bottom of the dress. Process the allowances together to form a drawstring for threading the elastic through the waist (leave about 2 cm open for threading the elastic).

On the left side of the dress, stepping back about 5 cm from the armhole

Fold and stitch the bottom of the dress. Finish the allowances for the neckline and one-piece sleeves, turn them in and stitch them.

Adjust the length of the elastic, sew the ends together and tuck them into the drawstring. Process the open area of the allowance.

Additionally sew a belt about 6 cm wide and 200 cm long finished form.

Your full sleeve dress is ready! Wear it with pleasure!

An outfit with a sleeve can be worn at any time of the year: In summer it will hide imperfections on the upper part of the arms and save the skin from the scorching sun; in winter it will warm you up. It is very important to choose the right sleeve style. How to choose a dress with one-piece sleeves?

Sleeve options women's clothing There are a great variety and some of them can serve their owners well, for example, to hide hand imperfections. One such option is a one-piece sleeve.

What does a one-piece sleeve look like?

A one-piece sleeve is a sleeve that does not have a seam separating it from the front and back, that is, there is no separation between the sleeve and the bodice of the dress.

Thanks to this cut, the figure acquires pleasant roundness, and the shoulder line loses its sharp angularity.

It is worth noting that this style has been popular for decades: Even our mothers “lit up” at discos in such dresses. This long-lasting popularity has made this wardrobe item a time-tested classic. And this is not surprising, because such a dress is incredibly comfortable to wear, does not restrict movement and at the same time hides some flaws in the silhouette.

Who is a full sleeve suitable for?

There are several categories of ladies who need to have dresses with full sleeves in their wardrobe:

Ladies with overly pumped arms. If you want to create a fragile, feminine look that requires you to hide your muscular arms, a dress with one-piece sleeves will perfectly help you with this.
. As a rule, with this type of figure, the upper part of the arms does not look aesthetically pleasing and by choosing such a dress, ladies will be able to hide their flaw.
Women with a "" figure. A one-piece sleeve will add volume to the upper part of the body and thereby visually balance the figure.
Owners In this situation, a specific cut allows you to correct angularity, awkwardness and lack of feminine curves.

Here's who should avoid this wardrobe item:

For those with a “” figure type, this style will only highlight the shortcomings of your figure.
Overweight ladies with an oval body type are also not recommended to wear dresses with full sleeves. This dress will make your figure even more massive visually.
Also, girls with large breasts should avoid dresses of this cut in order to avoid visual weighting of the upper part of the silhouette.

Varieties of dresses with one-piece sleeves

There are many varieties and styles of such dresses. Let's look at some of them.

1 Piece Sleeve Shirt Dress

A wonderful model for every day. In this dress you will feel equally comfortable both in the office and on a walk with your child or on vacation. Depending on the fabric, such a dress can be worn both in warm weather and when it is cold.

What to wear with?

Stylists recommend complementing dresses with such sleeves with wide belts, high heels and long jewelry - everything that can elongate the figure and define the waistline. It is also worth paying attention to light jackets if we are talking about office attire.

Almost any handbag will go with a dress with a one-piece sleeve - from a clutch on a thin chain to business models of strict shapes and colors.

Depending on the situation, you can choose massive jewelry for this outfit: long earrings, large rings, necklaces with large elements. However, it is worth remembering the main rule for choosing jewelry - you should not use the entire set. Give preference to either a combination of “earrings + necklace” or “necklace + ring” so as not to overload the image and make the right accent. You can also choose an elegant brooch for an evening or business outfit.

If speak about color combinations, then there are several rules:

Outfits of black and white flowers will go well with all other colors. The only limitation is your own color type, which determines whether a particular color suits you or not. It is also worth considering the circumstances for which you are choosing an outfit. For example, in an office it would be appropriate various combinations blue, gray, brown.

If it is quite difficult for you to navigate the combination of colors, use the triad rule: use a combination of three colors lying at the same distance in color palette. For example: violet, blue-violet, blue or yellow-green, yellow and yellow-orange. Simply put, you shouldn’t use diametrically opposed combinations like “dark blue + lemon yellow” or “bright green + dark red.”

Jewelry also plays an important role in the color scheme of the image. Everything here is quite simple - silver and other “cold metals” are best suited for cold colors, yellow gold for warm colors.

Valentina Nivina Alexander Nivin

Another hot topic of the season: long one-piece sleeve.

Having mastered this technique, you can easily model different styles of clothes with one-piece sleeves, regardless of the season, type of fabric, etc., guided only by your desires or goals.

When designing a long one-piece sleeve, the angle of inclination of the upper cut is of great importance.

With a slight slope or its complete absence, when the upper line of the sleeve runs horizontally (at a right angle to the lines of the middle back and front), the bodice of the product will have a fairly large volume, a softer shape with slack in the armhole area.

With a large slope of the upper cut of the sleeve, the bodice will have a strict, clear shape in the shoulder and armhole area. Freedom of movement in this case is ensured by the gusset, cut-off barrel, and other design techniques, which we will consider in the following articles.

The width of the sleeve in this design is directly dependent on the angle of inclination of the upper cut and the depth of the armhole. The widest sleeve can be obtained with a minimum angle of inclination of the upper cut and a deepened armhole.

In this article we will look at one of the options for designing a bodice with long one-piece sleeve without gusset (kimono), in which the upper cut is a continuation of the shoulder line.

This design is based on a drawing of a pattern for the base of a dress with a semi-fitted silhouette. If it is necessary to achieve a looser fit, you can increase the loose fit allowance by distributing it evenly between sections of the base mesh (back, armhole and front).

If you have not yet created a pattern for the base of the dress, you will need this drawing in the future when mastering the modeling of various types and styles of clothing.

Let's copy the back and front of the bodice of the dress onto a blank sheet of paper. There is no need to transfer all letters and auxiliary lines. Copy only those letters and lines that will participate in the construction. Look at our drawing and the situation will become clearer.

Before proceeding directly to the construction of a one-piece sleeve, it is necessary to fulfill the main condition:

Move the side line of the bodice to the middle of the armhole.

To do this, draw a line from point G4 down to the intersection with the waist line. Together with the side line, we transfer the side dart, as shown in Fig. 2.

In our drawing, point G4 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole. If you are using a base constructed using a different method, divide the width of the armhole in half and draw a vertical line from the division point, thus creating a new side bodice line.

And one more important note. When designing a soft bodice shape with a long one-piece sleeve, and this is exactly our case, the size of the side dart opening must be reduced to 1.5 cm in each direction. That is, the distance T2T3 = T2T4 = 1.5 cm.

We adjust the tuck solution. See fig. 3.

Note:

Darts on the waistline of the back and front can be reduced, replaced with gathers or tucks (in accordance with the style of the product).

In products with straight, free shapes, darts at the waist may be completely absent.

Back

To provide additional freedom, we move the line of the shoulder and neck of the back up as follows:

From point A we set aside 0.5 cm upward and place point A11;

From points A4, O and O3 we set aside 0.7 cm upward and place points A41, O11 and O31, respectively;

From point P1 upward we set aside 1.5 cm and place point P11.

These values may fluctuate slightly in one direction or another depending on the tasks set, the type of product, the fabric used and other factors. We use as an example the values most often used in our practice.

We connect points A11 and A41 with a smooth curve, thereby obtaining a new germ line.

We connect sections A41 O11 and O31 P11 with straight lines, continuing the shoulder cut to the right at a distance equal to the sleeve length measurement. In our example, the sleeve length is 58cm.

Thus, we set aside 58 cm from point P11, and you set aside your sleeve length measurement, and put point C.

Note:

1. The dart at the back shoulder line can be reduced or completely absent.

2. If the model includes shoulder pads, the shoulder section is additionally raised according to the thickness of the shoulder pad.

The width of the sleeve is determined by the model (style) of the product. If you sew for yourself, the width of the sleeve will depend only on your desire. If you sew for your client, you will have to listen to his wishes.

From point C down at a right angle to the upper cut of the sleeve, draw a straight line, on which we set aside the width of the sleeve plus 2 cm and place point C1.

CC1 = Shr: 2 + 2cm = 36: 2 + 2 = 20cm, and you make the calculation based on your data.

We draw segment CC1 with a smooth curve. To do this, divide the distance CC1 in half, set point C2, from which we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm to the right. Smoothly connecting points C, C2 and C1 we get a line for the bottom of the sleeve.

From point C1 to the left parallel to the upper cut (for straight sleeves) draw an auxiliary line until it intersects with the side cut. We denote the intersection point with the letter C3.

IMPORTANT! In this design, the distance G4S3 should not be less than 3 cm. If in your case this distance is less than 3 cm, you need to lower point C3 lower along the side cut to the required value.

Note.

Point C3 can be located anywhere on the side cut of the bodice, even at the waist line.

In our example, the sleeve is straight, so line C1C3 runs parallel to the top cut.

We continue building.

To the right and down from point C3 we set aside a distance equal to the segment Г4С3 and place points 1 and 2. See Fig. 9. This construction can be conveniently done using a compass, using a point C3 as radius.

We finalize the line of the lower cut of the sleeve and the side line of the bodice with a deflection between points 1 and 2. See fig. 10. In this area, after cutting, it is done guy.

If the product is cut along the waistline, in this case, to ensure freedom of movement, it is necessary to lengthen the side cut of the bodice by about 1-1.5 cm. This is done as follows. From point T3 downwards on the continuation of the lateral line we set aside 1-1.5 cm and place point T31. We draw the waist line with a smooth curve, connecting points T31 and T.

Shelf.

We reduce the opening of the chest dart by 2 cm. We use a compass to construct it. From point G7, as from the center, through point B9 to the right we draw an arc. Then we place the leg of the compass at point B9 and with a radius equal to 2 cm we make a notch on this arc, denoting the intersection point with the letter B91. We connect points G7, B91 and get a new dart line.

Now we reduce the shoulder line by the same distance (2cm). To do this, from point P5 to the right along the shoulder line, set aside 2 cm and put the letter P51. We connect points P51 and B91 with a straight line. We connect points P51 and P6 with a smooth curve.

For further construction, we will close the chest dart (for the duration of construction) and open it at point B3. You can open it in another place, for example, in a dart at the waistline (this is not important).

To do this, connect points G7 and B3 with a straight line, cut the front along this line and close the chest dart, combining points B91 and B7, and at the same time open the dart along line V3G7. See fig. 14.

We raise the edge of the shoulder up by 1 cm. To do this, from point P51 up on the continuation of the armhole line, set aside 1 cm and place point P52.

We connect points B3 and P52 with a straight line, continuing the shoulder cut to the left at a distance equal to the sleeve length measurement and place point C4. In our example, the sleeve length is 58cm.

From point C4 down at a right angle to the upper cut of the sleeve, draw a straight line, on which we set aside the width of the sleeve minus 2 cm. and put point C5.

In our example, the sleeve width is 36cm.

С4С5 = Шр: 2 - 2cm = 36: 2 - 2 = 16cm You make the calculation based on your data.

We shape the segment C4C5 with a smooth curve. To do this, divide the distance C4C5 in half, put a point C6, from which we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm to the right. Smoothly connecting points C4, C6 and C5 we get the line for the bottom of the front sleeve.

I would like to draw your attention to the difference in the design of the sleeve hem line on the back and on the front.

If on the back, using the smoothness of the line of the bottom of the sleeve (section CC1), we added 0.5-0.7 cm, then on the front, on the contrary, we “cut off” the same amount, forming a concavity of the line of the bottom of the sleeve (section C4C5).

See fig. 7 (back), fig. 17 (shelf).

From point G4 down the side line of the shelf we set aside a distance equal to the segment G4C3 on the back drawing and put point C7.

We connect points C5 and C7 with a straight line.

For the next step we will use a compass. From point C7, as from the center, with a radius equal to the distance C7G4, we make marks on the lower cut of the sleeve and on the side cut of the shelf. We denote the intersection points as 3 and 4, respectively.

In this design, the line of the lower cut of the sleeve smoothly transitions into the line of the side cut of the bodice.

We finalize the line of the lower cut of the sleeve and the side line of the bodice with a deflection between points 3 and 4. Look at Figure 20. In this section, after cutting, we make guy.

Note.

Point C7 can be located anywhere on the side cut of the bodice, even at the waistline. The main thing is that it corresponds to the position of the C3 point on the back.

IMPORTANT!

Before you start cutting the fabric, you need to check the length of the lower sections of the front and back parts of the sleeve for consistency and, if necessary, adjust. The lower cut of the front part of the bodice can be 1-2 cm shorter, this difference is compensated for by the drawstring.

We return the chest dart to its original position. See Fig. 21.

Note:

The chest dart in this design can be reduced.

If you are creating a pattern for a figure with a small chest volume (in products up to size 48), the chest dart may be completely absent.

I remind you:

If the product is cut along the waistline, in this case, to ensure freedom of movement, it is necessary to lengthen the side cut of the bodice by about 1-1.5 cm, similar to the back. This is done as follows. From point T4 downwards on the continuation of the lateral line we set aside 1-1.5 cm, put point T41. We form the waist line with a smooth curve, connecting points T41 and T5.

At this point, the construction of a long one-piece sleeve can be considered complete. All that remains is to add a few comments, using which you can expand the number of bodice options on the same basis.

If you need pattern tapered sleeves, this can be done by moving the lines of the upper and lower cuts as follows. From point C2 up and down we set aside ¼ of the width of the narrow sleeve. For example, if the finished width of a tapered sleeve is 24 cm, then we set aside 6 cm from point C2 (24: 4 = 6 cm). Let us denote the resulting points by the letters U and U1, and connect point U with shoulder point P11, and point U1 with point 2.

In the same way we build a narrowed sleeve on the shelf.

Now that's ALL! The construction is complete.

The resulting drawing can be used as the basis of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve for further modeling. Using methods known to you, you can use it to create a wide variety of styles of blouses, dresses, dressing gowns, etc. For example, using various options moving the chest dart, etc.

Figure 25 shows two more options for different positions of the lower section of the sleeve. Only the back part is shown here; on the shelf, the lower cut is constructed in a similar way. If necessary, you can easily handle this yourself.

This is just an example. Based on your goals and desires. Don't be afraid to experiment, but remember, the risk should always be worth it. Check the pattern and only after making sure that this is what you were aiming for, start cutting.

Cutting details

There are other ways and techniques for constructing a long, one-piece sleeve. We will talk about them in our next articles.

You will succeed!

Of course, every woman wants her outfit to look perfect and unique, so many people wear clothes that they sew themselves. It is believed that the pattern of a dress with a one-piece sleeve is the simplest, because this style does not have strict lines. Any clothing with such a sleeve looks feminine and elegant. How to make such a pattern with your own hands? Let's look at a few models.

Pattern of a straight dress with one-piece sleeves: master class

The main secret of a one-piece sleeve is that it needs to be cut out simultaneously with the back, as well as the front of the entire dress.

Necessary materials:

scissors;
paper or old wallpaper for patterns;
pencil;
centimeter for taking measurements;
chalk or a piece of dry soap.

Construction of a dress pattern with a one-piece sleeve:

This creates a sheath dress pattern, and all that remains is to cut out the drawn elements, and then transfer them to the fabric and sew them.

When creating this pattern, you need the same materials that are used in the previous model.

The procedure for constructing a pattern:

To get a dress pattern with a bat sleeve, you must first draw the top part of the outfit, and then increase it to the desired length of the product. When creating a pattern, you must mark the entire length of the product.
Then you should check the width of the hip area. The width of the part itself should be a quarter of the circumference of the hips, to which 1 cm is added so that the product lies freely.
Mark the length of the sleeve. To do this, you need to start taking measurements from the neckline itself, ending with the bottom of the sleeve. Then mark the desired size on the pattern itself according to the measurements taken.
It remains to mark from the very bottom line of the cuffs, the length of which is approximately 15 cm. Then you need to draw another straight line parallel to the bottom line and you can start cutting out the finished pattern.

The principle of constructing patterns different models Dresses with one-piece sleeves are similar, but there are certainly differences. If you want to sew summer dress, then you can use the following pattern, substituting your measurements.