Technology for replacing piston rings. How to replace oil scraper rings on a VAZ yourself

As a rule, Zhiguli with an escape have more than 150,000 wear piston group is already quite significant, and if you are also the owner of, to put it mildly, a slightly used “penny” that has been repaired by someone unknown and when, then in 90% of cases you will be expected to replace the piston with a VAZ 2101.

Causes of wear

Here are some of the signs of wear that you should look out for first:

Increased fuel consumption;
Significant oil loss (max-min level per thousand kilometers);
Exhaust gases have a bluish tint;
Engine compression is less than 9.

Unfortunately, if you notice all these signs in your car, then the engine can only be helped by replacing the VAZ 2101 piston.
The most critical element in the piston group of an engine is piston rings, which simultaneously perform several functions:

Sealing the combustion chamber (prevents gases from entering the engine crankcase);
Protecting the piston from overheating by transferring heat from its head to the cylinder, which is intensively washed with coolant;
Uniform distribution of the oil film over the surface of the cylinder, while preventing oil from penetrating into the combustion chamber.

For optimal performance, the rings must fit evenly and tightly across the entire surface of the cylinder. However, over time, the geometry of the cylinder changes, the gaps in the piston grooves and at the joints of the rings increase, and their elasticity is impaired.
As a result, the sealing is broken, gases penetrate into the engine crankcase, and increased wear of the entire piston group begins.

As wear increases, the amount of gases increases, crankcase ventilation cannot cope and the pressure in it increases significantly, which helps to squeeze out oil through the crankshaft seals, gaskets and distributor socket.
This unpleasant situation can be corrected by replacing the piston rings on a VAZ 2101, especially since the cost of replacement is much lower than the cost of repairing the entire engine, since for this procedure we only need new rings and gaskets for the pan and cylinder head.
Special tools include a piston ring crimper and a torque wrench, although you can do DIY repairs without them, after all, what difference does it make where your hands come from, as long as they are golden!

Replacing piston rings

So, replacing the piston rings of a VAZ 2101 takes place on an overpass or in a pit, without removing the engine:

Attention! Before starting work, do not forget to remove the negative terminal from the battery.

Drain the oil and coolant. Since we will no longer use the old oil, we unscrew it oil filter;
We dismantle all the “attached” equipment that prevents us from unscrewing the pan and cylinder head, namely the exhaust pipe, air filter, gas drive with choke cable, valve cover and starter;
We unscrew the bolt and remove the camshaft sprocket, having previously secured it with a screwdriver;

Unscrew and remove the camshaft bed and the block head;

Unscrew the fastening of the left engine mount, lift it and unscrew the pan;
We unscrew the connecting rod caps and, together with the connecting rods, push the piston up;
We very carefully inspect the pistons for cracks and chips; if the inspection is satisfactory, we remove the old rings, clean the grooves on the pistons from carbon deposits and install new rings.

Advice! Don't forget to check the condition of the connecting rod bearings. As a matter of fact, to extend the life of the engine, it is better to change them, in the end, so as not to open them again later.

Removing old rings

At this stage you are given the opportunity to practice installing the rings. That is, test with your own hands the elasticity of the metal, the thickness of the groove, try to pull it out and put the ring in place without fear of breaking it.

Cleaning the piston grooves

The World Wide Web is full of photo material on how to replace piston rings on a VAZ 2110. But since we do all the work with our own hands, which requires a minimum of special tools, I suggest an option for cleaning the grooves for the rings - cleaning with the ring itself (which was pulled out from there, of course).

Checking piston ring clearances

In this paragraph we have only two points:

In the first case, the calculated (nominal) gap between the groove wall and the first compression ring should be 0.045-0.08 mm, the second compression ring should be 0.025-0.06 mm and, accordingly, the oil scraper ring should be 0.02-0.055 mm. Wear tolerance for all gaps is 0.015mm.

In the second case, the gap for all new rings should be 0.25-0.45 mm. Wear tolerance is 1mm.

If there is a small gap, grind off the rings.

If it is large, replace it.

Installing rings on the piston

Once again, to what was said above, I repeat - this instruction implies that replacing the piston rings of a VAZ 2101 is done only with your own hands, in a private garage.
Therefore, by default, we do not have any “sophisticated” tools and use available materials to install the rings on the piston and the entire piston with rings into the cylinder. In our case, this is... a tin can.

Cut from tin can metal strips, and install them around the entire circumference, at even intervals;

Advice! One strip should be under the “lock” of the ring to prevent scratches.

We move the desired ring along the metal strips to the bottom until it is opposite its seat;
We lift the strips up, while the rings fall into the groove;
The operation is then repeated for all rings.

Of course, you can perform this action with your bare hands, but the risk of breaking the rings and scratching the piston is too great.

Installing a piston into an engine cylinder

Lubricate the piston rings with oil, insert them into the cylinder block from above and, using a homemade mandrel, insert the piston into the cylinder.

Attention! During this procedure, make sure that each piston fits exactly into the cylinder from which it was taken and is in the same position as before. The cylinder markings must be on the lower connecting rod heads.

Assembly process

We install the oil pump;

We install a new pan gasket and the pan itself;
We lower the engine into place and fasten the left support;
Having previously lubricated it with graphite grease, install a new cylinder head gasket, guiding it along the center bushings;
When installing the cylinder head, following the manufacturer’s instructions, tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts in a certain order and with the indicated force, in four steps:

In the established order, we tighten the bolts with a torque of 20 N/m (about half the force);
The same, but with more force, with a torque of 70 N/m;
In the same order, all bolts are tightened;
And once again we stretch it out.

Using the marks, we establish the position of the crankshaft and, aligning the marks with the help of an asterisk, mount the camshaft bed;
We put the sprocket itself in place with the chain on it and tighten the bolt securing it;
We tighten the chain and turn the engine a couple of revolutions to make sure that the crankshaft and chain tension marks are installed correctly;
In the final part, we install all the “attached” equipment in place, install a new oil filter, fill in coolant and oil, install the battery terminal and start the engine.

I hope that in this article I have clearly outlined how to replace piston rings on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands. In conclusion, I would like to give one last piece of advice regarding running in the engine after repairs.
Since we have the same diagnosis - we are the owners of domestic Zhiguli cars, the selection of spare parts must be approached with special attention. No one is immune from purchasing low-quality components.
Therefore, to prevent possible deviations(shrinkage, foreign inclusions in the metal structure, temperature deformation) it is recommended to drive the first thousand kilometers with a load of no more than 50% of the nominal load, after which the oil should be changed.

Attention! It is the load, not the engine speed! Of course, the revolutions should also not be raised by more than half of the maximum permissible, but you must admit that the engine can be fully loaded even at two thousand if the gas pedal is pressed to the floor.

And those who are especially suspicious are allowed to extend the break-in period to five thousand, with oil changes at the first and fifth thousand kilometers.

One of the main indicators characterizing the normal operation of the engine is oil loss and fuel consumption. If your VAZ's fuel consumption increases sharply and the oil level drops very quickly, all these signs indicate that the piston rings have exhausted their service life and require replacement.

If you have owned a car since the day it was purchased and know for sure that the engine has not yet been repaired, then knowing the mileage of the car, you can get an idea of what spare parts you need. This refers to the size of the rings and gaskets. If you are not the first owner of this car, then we recommend purchasing spare parts for replacing piston rings only after disassembling the engine. Since over the long life of the car, it could have already undergone several repairs, during disassembly you can see anything there.

So, let's get to work on replacing piston rings on VAZ 2101-07 cars. We put the car on the inspection hole. Before starting work, remove the terminal from the battery. Drain the oil. You can pour it into any container, since we will not use this oil in the future. Unscrew the old one. We drained the oil. Then we drain the coolant and begin disassembling the engine. Unscrew and move the exhaust pipe. Disconnect the choke cable, remove the throttle drive, and remove the air filter housing. Unscrew and remove the starter, release and remove the valve cover. We fix the camshaft sprocket with a screwdriver, unscrew the bolt securing it and remove it. Unscrew and remove the camshaft bed. Unscrew the bolts securing the block head and remove it. We release the fastening of the left “in the direction of travel” engine mount and, using a hoist, lift the engine and remove the pan. We remove the oil pump. Remove the connecting rod caps and pull out the pistons. We carefully inspect the pistons for chips and cracks. If everything is in order, then remove the old rings, clean the ring grooves on the pistons from carbon deposits and install a new set of rings. When performing this operation, it is advisable to install new connecting rod bearings in order to increase the service life of the connecting rods. Using a mandrel, we put the piston in place, observing the cylinder markings stamped on the lower connecting rod heads. We install the oil pump, place the pan and lower the engine onto the cushion. We install a new head gasket, having previously lubricated it with graphite lubricant. We install the cylinder head, tighten the fastening bolts to the prescribed torque. We install the crankshaft according to the marks and put the camshaft bed in place (after aligning the marks with an asterisk). We install the sprocket together with the chain, tighten the sprocket mounting bolt, tension the chain and crank the engine 2 turns to make sure that everything is in order. We install the choke cable, the battery terminal, screw on the exhaust pipe and start the engine.

The fact that the car requires replacement of the piston rings, and not some other repair work, will be indicated by the engine itself. The signs of such a malfunction appear quite clearly, so it will be difficult not to notice them. But before we talk about the symptoms, you need to understand what the rings are and what role they play in the operation of the engine.

What are piston rings and their purpose

Piston rings are elastic, open elements that are installed in special grooves on the piston body. They are made of high-strength steel or cast iron, and covered with an alloying material on top. The alloy coating further increases strength and also reduces wear rates.

Typically, 3 rings are inserted into the piston: 2 compression rings (occupying the 2 upper grooves) and 1 oil scraper ring (the lower groove). The purpose of the compression rings is to prevent hot gases from breaking through along the piston into the engine crankcase. Oil scraper - removes excess oil from the cylinder mirror, preventing it from entering the combustion chamber. In addition, the rings reduce the temperature of the piston, transferring almost half of the heat from its surface to the cylinder walls.

When the piston rings no longer cope with the tasks assigned to them due to their wear, the car engine signals this by displaying the corresponding symptoms.

Signs of piston ring wear

Blue or black indicates that wear has reached a critical stage. This indicates that excess oil entered the combustion chamber past the oil scraper ring and burned there along with the fuel. Black smoke coming out of the crankcase ventilation tube indicates that the compression rings, due to wear, allow gases to escape from the combustion chamber into its cavity.

Critical wear is accompanied by a decrease in compression (the ability to maintain pressure) in the engine cylinders. This means that part of the gases formed during the combustion of the fuel mixture, which was supposed to push the piston, broke into the crankcase without completing useful work. This is what will lead to a drop in pressure in the cylinder, therefore, the engine will lose some power. Observed.

A special device - a compression meter. When the nominal pressure values are unknown (there are no operating instructions), it is first measured in a dry cylinder, then a little engine oil is poured through the spark plug hole, and the measurement is made again. If the compression increases, then the rings need to be replaced. Similar signs can be observed in the case of their “occurrence”.

“Sticking” occurs when carbon deposits formed in the piston grooves prevent the piston rings from springing, resulting in a decrease in the tightness of their contact with the cylinder surface.

This problem, if the case is not very advanced, can be corrected with the help of special fuel additives. For an engine with a carburetor system, you can try cleaning it with a carbon remover spray that is injected directly into the carburetor. If removing carbon deposits from the combustion chamber has no effect, then there is only one way out - replacing the piston rings and cleaning the grooves.

How to replace piston rings yourself

Of course, replacing rings is a rather labor-intensive procedure. It requires accuracy and certain skills, but by and large there is nothing complicated about it (unless you remove the engine). To do this you need:

If the wear of the connecting rod bearings allows them to be reused, then there is no need to replace them, since this will require boring the crankshaft journals. You won’t be able to do this kind of work on your own without experience.

Tools required for work

To replace the rings you will need:

sets of open-end and ring wrenches, as well as wrenches with an extension and heads with a nominal value of 10 – 19;
torque wrench;
specialist. crimp (mandrel).

You will also need one that is oil resistant. It will come in handy when installing the oil pan and valve cover gaskets.

And there seems to be nothing complicated in the steps listed above, if the replacement is made without removing the engine from the car. However, there are nuances without which an engine with new rings will not work for a long time. When the cylinder reaches the extreme stage of wear, a “step” is formed on the surface of its mirror. Having hit it, the new ring will either break immediately or get a crack, which will ultimately lead to its failure. In addition, the grooves of the old piston also have wear, so grinding new rings to the cylinder will be difficult or completely impossible. This means that it is better to entrust the troubleshooting of the piston group and cylinders to professionals.

Boring and honing of cylinders should also be carried out by qualified specialists. In addition, this work cannot be done without removing the engine. Therefore, before getting down to business, you should think carefully and realistically assess your strengths and capabilities. So that the result of the repair would not be the replacement of the piston group as a whole, or even worse, it would not be necessary to hand over the engine to.

Decrease in vehicle performance can be due to many factors. Therefore, the “treatment” for such a disease must be selected correctly. A significant factor is the level of compression in the combustion chambers of the cylinder block. For such a diagnosis, replacing the piston rings is suitable.

Additional signs include loss of engine oil and decreased fuel efficiency of the vehicle. A more accurate picture will be obtained by measuring compression using special instruments.

Let's look at an example of working on classic models VAZ. It is necessary to measure compression on a warm engine. Readings from a cold engine can distort the picture. For measurements, you will need a special pressure gauge equipped with a threaded tip. It can be bought at any auto store.

Compressometer appearance

The check begins by unscrewing all the candles from their sockets. Then the central cable from the ignition coil is disconnected. We set the gear to neutral and turn the throttle valve to the maximum opening. After this, screw the compression gauge into one of the spark plug holes. At this time, an assistant must turn the starter handle. Two or three pumps will be enough.

The readings are considered normal if the data on the device is 12-13 ks/cm2.

Level 10 to 12 is also acceptable. But if the numbers are below 10 kg/cm2, then this indicates low compression. If compression still reaches a satisfactory level, but a little late, then the valves may be responsible.

To clarify, you can pour about 20 ml of oil into the disputed chamber and crank the starter again, taking a measurement. When normal compression is established at 12 kg/cm 2, the reason lies in the rings. Correct installation of the piston rings can solve this problem. If the pressure remains low, then the valves are the cause of the decrease.

Installation using a mandrel

Disassembling the engine to replace rings

Before replacement, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work:

it is necessary to drain the used engine oil, because after installing new rings you need to fill in fresh working fluid;
We loosen the exhaust pipe of the muffler;
you need to remove the valve mechanism cover and align the engine to the marks;
we dismantle the camshaft star, and for front-wheel drive VAZs we remove the bolt securing the belt drive pulley, and then the timing belt itself with the pulley;
in the classics, we loosen the tensioner, and then also dismantle the chain and sprocket mounted on the camshaft;
then we dismantle the rocker with springs, laying everything out in the correct order to assemble the parts into place;
remove the block head, before this you need to disconnect the manifold;
unscrew and get rid of the pan and oil pump;
remove the connecting rod caps, and then push the connecting rods up so that they can be pulled out along with the piston.

Checking rings and pistons

Each ring is removed from the pistons and checked in its own cylinder. In order not to confuse them with each other, it is necessary to immediately lay out the parts in a certain order. When checking old rings, their outer diameter should not create a gap with the cylinder walls of more than 1 mm. For comparison, you can insert a new ring into the same cylinder.

Checking the thermal gap in the rings

Measurements will usually be more accurate at the top of the block bore since wear is minimal.

The gap can also be checked in special gauges. You need to pay attention to the thermal gap in the piston rings, which should be in the range from 0.25 to 0.45 mm. It can be checked with a dipstick. If the parameter is smaller, then it is possible to increase the gap by filing the end plane with a diamond file.

The diameter of the pistons is checked at the bottom (skirt). This is done with a micrometer.

It is necessary to compare this indicator with the table of acceptable values. Additionally, you need to check the gap between the piston groove and the ring. If exceeded, the pistons must be changed. The tolerance limit is 0.15 mm. The pistons are also checked visually for cracks and the integrity of the ring bridges. After washing, satisfactory pistons can be used further.

Installation procedure

Branded products from trusted manufacturers have convenient markings, which make it clear how to correctly install the piston rings. On one side is written "TOP", which means "top" in English. This side should face the combustion chamber or the top of the piston.

Designation on the sides of the rings

If no inscription is found, then there should be a groove along the entire diameter. With this step you need to turn the ring down.

There are usually two installation methods used. One of them is safer, and the second is more often used by either great professionals or absolute beginners. Both are suitable for independent use during repairs.

Installation using metal plates

In the first case, you will need to cut several flat pieces of tin, approximately 0.3 to 0.5 mm thick. Three or four such sheets are placed along the diameter of the piston. Rings are put on them. And they drop down to the level of the slot. Then the mandrel for the piston rings is removed from the plates, and the ring fits into the desired groove. The method is perfect for any master.

Piston ring installation

The second option requires certain experience and skills. It consists of using your fingers to open the gap, increasing the inner diameter of the ring to the extent that you can pass the piston through it and install it in the desired groove. The disadvantages are that often inexperienced locksmiths break many rings by using more force than necessary.

Necessary actions after installing the rings

When each ring has taken its place in the groove, you need to install the slots approximately 120 degrees from each other. This reduces the likelihood of gases breaking through from the fuel chamber into the crankcase cavity.

Incorrect installation of piston rings

There is evidence that the first ring holds about 75% of the total compression, and the second - about 20%.

If the thermal gaps are separated, then when a certain amount of gas breaks through the first ring, it will not have time to get further, in contrast to the closer position of the second gap.

Errors when installing piston rings

Installing new rings in cylinders that are worn out is absolutely ineffective. This is due to the fact that the worn hole is shaped like an ellipse. The expected high-quality grinding cannot occur.

Piston ring set

Also, at high speeds, the second ring, made of cast iron, can simply burst.

During operation, the rings fill the grooves with grooves. Such gaps depressurize the combustion chamber and gases enter the crankcase from it. And oil comes in the opposite direction. Such a design can last for several thousand kilometers, and then repairs must be carried out again.

It would also be a gross mistake to deliberately install gaps opposite each other. The gases overheat one side of the piston, resulting in a deformed part. The metal burns out and additional deformation of all elements occurs.

The rings are metal elastic spring elements placed on the upper part (head) of the piston - in grooves specially provided for this. Most often, rings are made of steel (or high-strength cast iron) and coated with an alloying material to give greater strength and wear resistance. The end part of the rings in contact with the cylinder mirror can be coated with tin to facilitate running-in during the initial period of engine operation (or after its overhaul).

Other names

The full name for the rings is piston rings. There are compression rings (the top and second in a row - intermediate) and oil scraper rings (the bottom one).

Purpose of the rings

Piston rings are designed to ensure the required tightness of the working volume of the cylinder in the space above the piston during reciprocating movement of the piston. Compression rings protect against the breakthrough of hot gases into the engine crankcase, and oil scrapers– remove excess oil from the cylinder bore, while preventing it from entering the combustion chamber.

Due to some ovality of the initial shape, when put on the piston and installed in the cylinder, the rings fit tightly to the surface of the mirror. To prevent “through” penetration of gases through the ring locks, they are placed with mixing around the circumference (for example, for three piston rings, the locks should be located after 120 degrees. apart from each other).

The rings are important detail piston cooling - through them up to half of the total heat is transferred to the cylinder wall. Consequently, the material and design of the rings must withstand significant loads. The rings account for up to 30% of all friction losses in the engine. That is why the end surface of the rings is often barrel-shaped and coated with an anti-friction alloying material.

Symptoms of a problem

The malfunction of the piston rings may consist either in their significant wear and inability to perform a sealing function. Or it breaks down, which is already a catastrophic failure for the engine. “Stuck” of piston rings is a loss of spring properties due to abundant carbon formation inside the grooves of the piston head, when the rings have “nowhere” to spring and provide reliable pressure to the cylinder wall.

The “classic” sign of piston ring failure is significant oil consumption due to waste, black exhaust(a sign of burning oil), as well as black smoke from the crankcase ventilation tube, indicating the free penetration of gases into the engine crankcase. A decrease in engine power also indicates ring wear. After all loss of compression(that is, a decrease in cylinder pressure at the end of the compression stroke) affects the decrease in the maximum and average pressure of the working cycle. Compression measurement using a special indicator (screwed in instead of a spark plug) gives an unambiguous conclusion about the condition/wear of the piston rings.

The cause of piston ring failure can be not only their natural wear, but also engine overheating. In this case, the rings quickly lose their properties (especially box-type oil scraper rings) and require replacement.

Piston ring repair

Repair of rings can only consist of replacing them with new ones. Replacing the rings in the engine requires preliminary disassembly (for which you should refer to the instructions for the specific car). The rings themselves are very easy to change: the edges in the lock area are moved apart until the ring comes out of the piston groove. Before installing new rings on the piston, it is necessary to evaluate their clearance. To do this, the ring is installed in the cylinder and pressed down by the piston. The gap is measured with a feeler gauge - it should not exceed 0.25-0.45 mm. If the gap is smaller, the ring needs to be slightly sharpened with a file (otherwise it will not “sit” in the piston groove). But in this matter you cannot overdo it, so as not to waste too much!

When installing rings, the main thing is not to confuse their relative position and type (compression and oil control), as well as the orientation of the ring itself. To do this, ring manufacturers always mark one side with the inscription TOR (“top”). Well, it’s also easy to distinguish the oil scraper ring from the compression ring - the first has a characteristic U-shaped profile and an expansion spring. The intermediate (second) compression ring may have additional "scraper" for better oil removal to help the oil scraper ring. Therefore, if the ring contains an edge, it Always install with the edge facing down.

When installing rings on the piston, the main thing is not to overdo it with force, otherwise the ring may break!

Additionally

One of the biggest mistakes is install new compression rings into the worn cylinder. This leads to the fact that the “step” of wear of the cylinder mirror can lead to breakage of the rings on it - and the need for a major engine overhaul! In addition, old rings leave a wear mark not only on the cylinder bore, but also on the inner surface of the piston groove. So the new ring and the “old” cylinder and piston may never get used to each other!

So the correct procedure would be replacement of piston rings along with pistons, as well as boring and honing of cylinders. Naturally, in this case, replacing the rings without removing the engine is impossible.

Ring life

The average lifespan of piston rings is from 150 to 400 thousand kilometers. For supercharged engines with hotter operating conditions, ring replacement may be required sooner.

However, the figures for “normal” wear can be greatly adjusted downward if the engine is overheated, operated with unsuitable/low-quality engine oil and/or under extreme conditions. Wear on the piston rings increases sharply when trying to “accelerate” on a cold engine.

After replacing the piston rings, they need time to break in. This means, just like during the break-in period of a car, It is not recommended to spin the engine above 3000 rpm for the first 5 thousand km.

“Eternal” piston rings can be made from special alloy steel. However, they will never break into the cylinder. Hence the always present compromise - between the strength and wearability of the rings. To overcome it, the rings are coated with various alloys. And new rings (especially on German engines) are often coated with a special “triggered” tin (or copper) alloy - specifically for running-in during the initial period of operation.

It is important not to make a mistake!

Operating a vehicle with worn rings is to a decrease in engine power, deterioration of toxicity, increased fuel and oil consumption due to waste. In addition, worn rings lead to progressive wear of the cylinder bore, which subsequently results in very expensive engine repairs.

Engine repair and replacement prices

Engine
Replacing the air filter	from 200 rub.
Replacing hydraulic compensators	from 4,000 rub.
Replacing the cylinder head	from 8,000 rub.
Replacing cylinder block plugs	from 500 rub.
Replacing the rear oil seal	from 3,000 rub.
Replacing the valve gasket	from 500 rub.
Replacing manifold gaskets	from 500 rub.
Change of oil	from 500 rub.
Changing the automatic transmission oil	from 500 rub.
Changing the gearbox oil	from 500 rub.
Changing the oil in the axle	from 500 rub.
Replacing valve stem seals	from 2,000 rub.
Replacing the oil pump	from 1,000 rub.
Replacing the chain tensioner	from 1,000 rub.
Replacing the engine mount	from 500 rub.
Replacing the gearbox engine mount	from 500 rub.
Replacing the front oil seal	from 500 rub.
Replacing the pump	from 1,000 rub.
Replacing piston rings	from 10,000 rub.
Replacing the head gasket	from 4,000 rub.
Replacing the front cover gasket	from 1,000 rub.
Replacing the pan gasket	from 1,000 rub.
Camshaft replacement	from 3,000 rub.
Replacing the alternator belt	from 200 rub.
Replacing the power steering belt	from 200 rub.
Replacing the timing belt	from 3,000 rub.
Replacing the tensioner roller	from 500 rub.
Replacing the cabin filter	from 200 rub.
Replacing the camshaft oil seal	from 2,000 rub.
Replacing spark plugs	from 400 rub.
Replacing the thermal coupling	from 800 rub.
Replacing the damper	from 2,000 rub.
Chain replacement	from 3,000 rub.
Compression measurement	from 700 rub.
	from 25,000 rub.
	from 20,000 rub.
Engine flushing and oil change	from 500 rub.
Adjustment of valves	from 1,500 rub.
Removing and installing the engine	from 8,000 rub.
Installing crankcase protection	from 500 rub.
Trouble-shooting	from 200 rub.
Overhaul of 16 valves	from 25,000 rub.
Overhaul of 8 valves	from 20,000 rub.
cylinder head repair	from 3,000 rub.
repair of cylinder block plugs	from 500 rub.
engine diagnostics	from 800 rub.
injector diagnostics	from 800 rub.
replacement of gasoline and diesel engines	from 8,000 rub.
replacing the air filter	from 200 rub.
cylinder head replacement	from 8,000 rub.
engine replacement	from 8,000 rub.
replacement of diesel engines	from 8,000 rub.
changing engine oil	from 500 rub.
engine oil change	from 500 rub.
replacing timing belts (timing chains)	from 2,500 rub.
replacing chains	from 3,000 rub.
engine overhaul	from 25,000 rub.
engine overhaul	from 25,000 rub.
repair of gasoline and diesel engines	from 25,000 rub.
cylinder head repair	from 3,000 rub.
engine repair	from 20,000 rub.
diesel engine repair	from 25,000 rub.