Water-based wood varnish for exterior use. Colored wood varnish for interior use

The choice of putty based on the wall material: concrete, brick, wood. Selection of primer for putty. Principles of material application and sanding. Tips for beginners.

Wallpaper putty

Before you start wallpapering, you need to prepare the walls.

Putty under the wallpaper is applied only after all work on plastering the walls has been completed.

Drywall is called dry plaster; this base should also be puttied and prepared for gluing.

Is it necessary to putty the walls under wallpaper?

This should be done for several reasons:

1. Plastered walls have many defects that will be visible when wallpapering. They can especially stand out when gluing striped wallpaper or thin, light colors.
2. After plastering, when drying, the walls may have cracks. They definitely need to be sealed. Because the reasons for the appearance of this deficiency are unknown - they expand due to soil movement, but if the solution is not made correctly, they can remain unchanged.
3. After puttying, the walls become more protected from external factors.
4. Puttying a plasterboard wall is necessary because craftsmen do not recommend gluing wallpaper onto “bare” plasterboard for many reasons - from loss of the appearance of the wallpaper to unpleasant surprises when removing it.

Surface filling is carried out in several stages:

1. Determining the unevenness of the wall and its preparation.
2. Applying the starting mixture.
3. Finishing coating and bringing the surface to perfection.

If the putty work is carried out correctly, the surface will be ready for wallpapering.

Correct work will prevent the putty layers from peeling off and the wallpaper falling off.

Types of ready-made putty for walls: which one is better

A well-putty surface is the result of the master’s final work and an indicator of the materials used.

Ready-made putty mixtures allow you to reduce the time of the master for mixing putty.

The most used types of ready-made putties:

1. Latex acrylic - applied to any surface, including drywall. Its most widespread use is in finishing surface coating. The elastic solution allows you to make a layer of putty of 1-3 mm.
2. Oil-adhesive and adhesive - has a high density, so professionals work with it. It is difficult to apply to the surface, but when dried it has a certain strength.
3. Putty with PVA. It has antifungal components, so it is applicable in damp areas.

It is better for a novice master to work with a ready-made solution. It is more plastic, fits well on plaster and retains its qualities after drying.

Starting: the best choice

In addition to ready-made mixtures, dry putty solutions are sold on the market.
The starting putty is applied to prepared plastered walls.

The most commonly used putties are:

• cement mortars;
• gypsum mixtures;
• polymer putties.

Cement putty is used in damp rooms. It is coarse-grained, with a gray tint.

Gypsum mixtures are used in a dry room that is heated in winter. It contains quicklime.

Polymer - used in both wet and dry rooms. Has high elasticity.

Manufacturers of starting putty:

1. Knauf starting putty is intended for indoor work. It has a plaster base. Due to its environmentally friendly composition, the mixture is used in children's rooms. The disadvantage of putty is that it hardens quickly. The maximum layer of applied solution is 1.5 cm.
2. Volma-Standard. Consists of gypsum and mineral compounds. After puttying, you can start gluing. The surface is smooth and durable. The downside is that it sets quickly.
3. Osnovit-Ekonsilk is a gypsum base. Designed for dry rooms. Plastic, does not shrink. The thickness of the applied layer is 1 mm, if more, then cracks appear when drying.

By observing the correct preparation of the solution, filling the wall will have a good result.

Finish: how to choose according to the best rating

After the starting putty has dried and the work has been completed, the finishing mixture is applied. The most popular are:

1. Prospectors - Finish. The composition includes gypsum and additives. Used in rooms with high humidity. Shrink-resistant, flexible, quick-drying. The downside is the low strength of the surface after drying.
2. WEBER LR+. The applied layer is 1-5 mm. the working solution does not harden within 2 days. After drying, a flat, smooth white surface is obtained. Putty is applied both manually and mechanically.
3. Sheetrock Superfinish - contains vinyl additives, so the putty has high ductility. A layer of 2 mm dries in 5 hours. However, the master recommends carrying out all subsequent work one day after application. Has shrinkage.

How to choose a good coarse grain

Coarse putty is needed for the initial treatment of the wall after plastering. The most popular are:

• Unis Blik - the composition includes natural materials. Do not use in rooms with high humidity. To putty the surface, a reinforcing mesh is used. There is no shrinkage. Has plasticity, after drying there are no cracks;
• Vgt acrylic universal – based on acrylic. Layer thickness 1-7 mm. Has little shrinkage and good adhesion.

Coarse putties are all types of cement-based mixtures.

Which is better for deep leveling?

Starting putties. With their help, it is possible to eliminate all errors in plastering work and cracks. It is coarse-grained, applied to surfaces up to 20 mm.

Leading manufacturers:

• Knauf NR putty (starter) – gypsum putty, applied in a layer from 4 mm to 15 mm. The main direction is leveling the surface before finishing coating. After mixing, the solution quickly hardens; after 15 minutes, work stops. Does not shrink.
• Ceresit CT 29 starting – performing work on a concrete, brick, cement-sand wall. It is used to seal cracks and recesses left after plastering. The maximum applied layer is 20 mm. Not suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. After mixing, the solution can be used for 50 minutes. It takes 10-15 hours to completely dry on the surface. High strength.
• Kreisel 662 is universal - it contains cement and lime. Apply a thin layer to the surface covered with plaster, as well as without coating. Has high adhesion. Use the mixture in rooms with high humidity. The maximum layer is 3 mm, there is shrinkage.

When cracks are detected, in addition to putty, reinforcing tape must be used. It will prevent the crack from getting bigger.

Which putty to choose for drywall

The plasterboard surface is treated several times. Initially, putty is used for joints together with reinforced tape. The second stage is coating with starting putty.

The next stage is covering the surface with finishing putty. Only after one layer has completely dried should we proceed to the next work.

Under the wallpaper, the plasterboard surface is covered with layers of putty for greater strength of the entire structure.

For a neat appearance, because if thin wallpaper is pasted onto sheets without treatment, the color of the wall will appear on the wallpaper.

How to putty on wooden surfaces before wallpapering

Puttying a wooden surface is different from concrete and brick. There are factors influencing the choice of putty mixture for wood:

• high adhesion - the service life of the putty under the wallpaper depends on this;
• the solution must be elastic;
• drying speed.

Types of mortar used for wood surfaces:

1. Gypsum based mixture.
2. Latex putty.
3. A mixture with the addition of acrylic.
4. Oil mixture.
5. Putty with PVA.

Basically, craftsmen use gypsum mixtures that do not shrink and have good ductility.

Which putty is better to putty on untreated concrete?

A concrete wall generally does not have large differences in plane. Therefore, having skipped plastering, they immediately proceed to puttying with the starting composition.

The base coat consists of several layers. Moreover, the second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried. Cement mixtures are mixed for coating. They shrink, so the layer should not be thick.

The finishing layer should be thin. It's hard to hide underneath grey colour starting material, however, a thin layer makes the surface smooth, ready for wallpapering.

Universal putties are also used. But, apply them in a thin layer 2 times. They are plastic and do not shrink. If the walls are smooth, the differences are 2-5 mm, then the use of mixtures is permissible.

How many coats should be applied to bare concrete walls?

Apply 1 layer of starting putty to a practically flat concrete surface. The layer thickness does not exceed 15 mm. Beginners should use a perforated beacon profile to level the wall. It is fixed to the mixture and the level is adjusted for evenness. Work begins only after the solution under the profile has completely dried.

Attention. If there are wooden slats, they are used as beacons. But, the rail should not be high and jagged, otherwise there will be a ribbed surface.

What technologies exist

Masters use 4 methods that are suitable for beginners:

1. Mechanical method of applying the solution.
2. Semi-mechanical - applying the mixture, and then leveling it with a spatula.
3. Beacon - used for starting putty.

For mechanical method A machine that sprays putty in a thin layer is applicable. After applying the layer, use a spatula with a wide spatula to level the surface.

Semi-mechanical - the machine throws large drops onto the wall, which must be spread evenly over the entire wall.

Beacon is applicable for starting plastering. Suitable for beginners. The use of beacon profiles will speed up and facilitate work.

How to properly putty walls with your own hands for beginners without experience: a step-by-step guide

Beginning craftsmen need to know the nuances and correctness of the work.

The stages of preparing the solution and applying the material to the surface include:

• to prepare the solution, you must carefully read the instructions and know exactly how much water is needed for mixing;
• the starting solution is applied to the surface horizontally and vertically. To avoid bumps, you do not need to apply the solution from the floor itself. It catches garbage. Angle - here you need to go with a spatula perpendicular to the corner, horizontal to the floor. This way there will be no “washboard”;
• For productive work, the solution is prepared in small portions. During production, it will not have time to harden;
• the finishing layer is applied to the primed surface with a layer of 2 mm;
• when puttingty, the tool must be held at an angle of 30 degrees;
• After applying the mortar to the walls, putty the corner with an angle trowel.

Surface preparation

In order for the surface to be perfectly flat and smooth, the surface must be prepared. This process consists of several steps:

1. Cleaning walls from dust, excess stones, frozen drops of plaster. For cleaning, mechanical means are used - grinders, brushes, spatulas.
2. Surface priming. This must be done to degrease, and almost all primers contain antiseptic agents that protect the surface from mold.

After processing the wall, proceed to subsequent work.

Selecting the required tool

To properly putty with your own hands, you need to have the following tool:

• construction mixer;
• set of spatulas - wide spatula, small, angled;
• brush, roller for priming;
• the rule for creating a flat wall is 2 meters;
• level to control the evenness of the wall;
• sandpaper for rubbing the surface;
• skinner;
• container for the mixture.

All tools and containers must be clean. This will speed up the process and prevent the solution from hardening quickly. Because frozen particles in the container and on the spatulas accelerate the hardening of the mixture.

How to putty uneven surfaces with starting putty for a beginner

To apply the starting mixture to a dry, clean wall, beginners are recommended to use metal beacon profiles. They are installed along the wall so that the maximum distance from one profile to another is 1.5 meters.

Beacons are placed on the holes with putty. Evenness is determined by level. The excess solution that comes out is removed. The mixture must be completely dry before starting work.

The putty is applied in dots to the wall and stretched over the surface, without going beyond the installed beacons. The evenness of the surface is determined by the rule. With its help, the solution is tightened and the excess is removed from the instrument. If necessary, apply a second layer of solution.

The second layer is applied only after the first has dried.

If the putty shrinks, then 20 minutes after application it must be tightened according to the rule.

How many times do you apply the mixture before it hardens?

The starting mixture is applied in a layer of 20 mm.

If you need to level the wall with a large layer, then apply a second layer.

But this happens in rare cases, because after plastering work the unevenness is on average up to 1 cm.

Puttying of bare walls is carried out if the unevenness is 2 cm. The plaster layer is applied once, maybe with an overlap.

How and what is the best way to check the readiness of the surface for subsequent stages of work

After puttingtying the wall, the work must be left for a while. It all depends on the composition. Cement mortars shrink: after 20 minutes, the treated wall must be tightened according to the rule. After 1 hour, you need to run your palm over the surface, it should give “milk”, while the solution is already hardened. This milk is carefully removed with a spatula. They do the washing. Cement mortar hardens for about a day. Check with your palm, the solution should not stick.

Gypsum and polymer mixtures do not shrink. After application, they do not need to be touched for at least 10 hours. After this, use a dry palm to rub the surface. It should be dry and smooth. If dampness or sticking is felt, then the surface is left for some time.

The manufacturer's packaging indicates the exact time for the mixture to dry on the surface. We must wait for this time.

Do I need a primer for finishing putty: which one to use?

All primers differ in their composition and purpose. Primer mixtures must be applied before finishing putty for the following reasons:

• The primer increases the adhesion of the applied materials. That is, the topcoat will fit better on a primed surface;
• if, after the starting mixture has dried, a “cobweb” of microcracks appears on the surface, then the primer clogs them, preventing moisture from penetrating there;
• The primer creates a thin film on the surface, protecting it from the absorption of moisture and components of the finishing layer in the starting layer. Thanks to this, the finishing solution applies evenly. Material consumption is reduced.

The compatibility of the primer with putty is indicated in the table:

How to apply the finish yourself and putty correctly

To correctly apply the material to the surface, you must follow the principle of applying the material from dry to wet. You need to step back 30-40 cm from the ceiling and apply a layer of mortar. From the ceiling, the putty is applied with vertical movements.

It is better to apply putty under side light. To do this, use a diode lamp or spotlight. Uncertain movement with a spatula and too thick putty leave a ribbed mark on the surface, visible under the light of a lamp.

Vertical movements with a spatula near corners are unacceptable. The tool touches the adjacent wall – “ washboard" The tool is led from the corner to the opposite wall.

The finishing putty is applied in a layer of 1-3 mm, so the mixture should not be thick.

What to do after finishing putty: grouting

After the walls have dried, they are sanded and rubbed.

To work you need:

• painting block;
• respirator;
• diode lamp;
• diamond mesh or sandpaper.

There are 2 ways to sand walls:

1. Grout the walls with a diamond mesh or sandpaper (it gets clogged quickly) under the wallpaper.
2. Grout under the lamp with fine-grained sandpaper.

In the first method, a block is used, on which the mesh fraction is 300-400. There are irregularities on the wall that are invisible without a lamp. You need to wear a mask and in a circular motion pass along the entire wall. Use a vacuum cleaner to collect dust on the floor from time to time.

When performing work, a lot of dust appears, so you will need an old vacuum cleaner, as well as good ventilation.

In the second case, the lamp is installed on the side so that the light goes along the wall. Then you can see all the imperfections after the finishing layer. A mesh with a fine fraction of 600 and above is put on the block. Starting from the corner, scan the wall. For all small recesses, bumps, and stripes, grout in a circular motion.

The second method is applicable for surfaces for painting, for gluing thin wallpaper that follows the structure of the surface.

When can you start gluing?

After sanding the surface, you need to clean the walls from dust with a brush and dry rag. This is done with a vacuum cleaner at first speed. After cleaning the wall, it must be coated with a primer. After drying, it will leave a thin film that will protect the glue from being absorbed into the surface.

When the primer is completely dry, start working on the wallpaper.

Having studied all the subtleties of choosing a putty, the surface will be perfectly smooth and durable. You should not miss small nuances from the work; they play an important role in the formation of a solid wall for wallpaper.

Walls with putty and wallpaper have an attractive appearance, long term guarantees.

Useful video

Wall putty is the final stage of preparing the base for wallpapering, painting or applying other decorative coatings. This event is aimed at maximizing the leveling of the surface, eliminating obvious defects, small chips, potholes and other imperfections in the rough finishing. Professional work, taking into account the materials, can cost a hefty sum, so many people try to putty the walls with their own hands. It should be noted that the technology of puttying walls is not particularly difficult, therefore, after studying the main principles and practicing a little on old walls, you will successfully cope with this task.

The feasibility of wall putty is due to the following reasons:

1. Wallpapering and painting require a perfectly smooth surface, otherwise all problem areas will be clearly visible under the coating. Putty allows you to effectively level the wall and avoid expensive and complex plastering work.
2. The putty can be remade several times, applying repeated layers and eliminating even the slightest flaws on the walls. However, this will not affect the quality of the coating in any way.
3. Materials for puttying are affordable, available in a wide range and have low consumption.
4. To plaster complex relief structures made of plasterboard, you need to seek the help of professional finishers. With putty, things are different - you can do all the work yourself, saving your money.

Types of putty materials

Puttying walls involves several basic principles, on which the quality and appearance of the decorative finish directly depend. First of all, you need to choose the right putty mixture. The main criteria are the base material, type of finishing coating, size and purpose of the room, temperature conditions and humidity indicators.

Market building materials offers a wide variety of mixtures. Let's look at the most common types of putties.

Type of putty	Characteristics	Areas of use
Oil-adhesive	The cheapest putty. Improves the waterproofing properties of the coating, protects against the effects of steam and increases the resistance of the structure to destruction. It is not used for wallpapering or painting with any paints other than oil paints, since it is quickly absorbed into the walls and appears as stains.	Technical (non-decorative) wall cladding in basements, sheds and closets. Finishing of wooden plastered walls.
Cement	It is highly resistant to moisture and durable. Due to its low elasticity, it shrinks after drying, which can result in cracks appearing in the finish.	Tiling of bathrooms, kitchens and toilets. Finishing of technical and unheated premises.
Plaster	It is unstable to high humidity and temperature changes, absorbs moisture, as a result of which the coating begins to swell and fall off from the base. It is characterized by high plasticity, therefore it qualitatively levels any surface even when applying one layer.	Interior decoration of rooms with normal humidity levels, in particular living rooms, corridors, offices, etc.
Polymer	Most often used as a finishing putty to eliminate microcracks in the starting layer. It is characterized by high elasticity and ease of use, which significantly reduces labor costs and material consumption.	Finishing of premises with cement, plastered and plasterboard walls. Decorative finishing of living rooms, where thin coatings and delicate artistic work are expected.

Required materials and tools

Puttying walls with your own hands is a responsible and time-consuming undertaking, before starting which you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• mixtures for starting and finishing putty;
• composition for priming walls;
• containers for mixing putty (if the mixture is dry) and working with primer;
• paint roller, narrow and wide brushes for applying primer solution to hard-to-reach areas, for example, corners and places behind radiators;
• spatulas: a narrow tool for taking the mixture from a container, a wide one for applying putty to the walls, a corner tool for leveling the layer of mixture on the outer and inner corners;
• building rule for controlling the evenness of the base;
• a trowel for smoothing a layer of putty over a large area;
• a lamp or lamp to identify poorly aligned sections of the wall;
• electric grinder or hand trowel for grouting the dried surface;
• a drill and a special “mixer” attachment for thoroughly mixing the putty.

Important! Without a drill with an attachment, it will be almost impossible to obtain the desired consistency from the dry mixture. Therefore, if you do not have this tool, it is best to purchase a ready-made one.

VIDEO: how to putty walls for a beginner

Starting puttying of walls

Standard wall puttying technology involves starting and finishing treatment. The starting coating is used for the initial leveling of the wall, to process joints and seams in drywall, to close the screw heads and to fill large potholes, cracks and other irregularities. At the initial stage, the wall must be cleaned of particles of dirt, dust, grease stains and remnants of the old finish, and then left for some time until completely dry. Before applying the putty, the base is primed so that the next layers adhere tightly to the wall and do not peel off after drying.

Advice! When preparing for puttying, experts recommend using a reinforcing mesh - the material will adhere better to the walls, and the risk of cracks is significantly reduced.

All chips, cracks, differences and significant irregularities are sealed with starting putty.

Starting wall putty is performed with a mixture with a coarse-grained structure, which is specially designed for basic rough processing and is most often sold in dry form. After applying this composition, the surface becomes smooth, but has a porous texture, so in most cases it requires.

Using the rule, you need to check the evenness of the wall - you need to see how evenly the tool adheres to the base. If the wall is relatively flat, then the mixture is applied in large, sweeping strokes, and the spatula should always be pressed against the wall at the same angle.

In areas with large depressions, slides or other deviations from the level, the putty is applied in a thick layer, after which it is pulled over the entire surface using a trowel. This must be done until the wall is level. After the starting layer has hardened, the surface must be thoroughly sanded to eliminate tool marks, splashes and sagging.

In what cases to use reinforcing mesh

Most often, puttying walls with reinforcing mesh is required when there are significant differences in the base. The serpyanka mesh makes the leveling process more efficient and accurate. The result is a high-quality and durable base, suitable for further finishing work; in addition, the risk of cracks appearing on painted walls is significantly reduced.

The reinforcing mesh is fixed to the surface using glue, which must first be applied with a roller or brush. The mesh is pressed tightly against the wall and coated with glue on the outside. After the glue has completely dried, you can begin to putty.

Another way to fix the serpyanka is to press it onto a previously applied wet layer of putty, level it and putty on top with another layer. For beginners, the first method is more preferable, since it does not involve any special difficulties.

Corner processing

Puttying walls in hard-to-reach places, such as external and internal corners, is done using an angle spatula. For external corners, special perforated overlays are used, which are embedded in a previously applied layer of putty. After the mixture has dried, perform final processing on both sides of the joint. To do this, the mixture is applied to both sides of the corner and leveled vertically using a corner tool, while trying not to leave grooves.

VIDEO:

A solution is also applied to the inner corner, the excess of which must be removed as a rule. The mixture is leveled with an angled spatula using longitudinal movements. In this case, it is recommended to control the plane using a building level. If necessary, the operation can be repeated with a smaller amount of putty mixture, and then proceed to the main finishing work.

Applying finishing putty

Finishing wall putty is the final stage of surface preparation before applying the final coating. At this stage, the same procedure is used as for the initial treatment - priming the base, applying a putty mixture and sanding. The material used is a composition with a fine grain fraction, which eliminates microcracks after the tool, pores and other minor defects. As a result of the finishing process, a smooth and even surface is obtained, on which even thin wallpaper can be glued and paints of light shades can be applied.

Using finishing putty, the walls are perfectly even for further painting or wallpapering.

Final puttying of walls involves the following nuances:

• the mixture is applied to the base using top-down movements in a thin layer of 1-2 mm, while the tool must always be pressed against the wall at an angle of 20°;
  Important! If the putty layer is thicker than 5 mm, after drying the coating may crack and crumble.
• before each new sampling of material, it is necessary to thoroughly wipe the instrument with a wet sponge to remove dried particles;
• for thick wallpaper one layer will be enough, but for thin wallpaper or painting you will have to apply 2-3 layers;
• the finishing mixture dries for about 36-48 hours, after which it is necessary to carefully sand the surface until a smooth plane is formed.

Unevenness and roughness left behind by the tool, as well as strips from the spatula at corner joints, are easily eliminated at the grinding stage, so they do not require re-application of the material. If you plan to paste thick wallpaper, you can skip sanding.

When the finish has lost its appeal, it's time to start renovating. If wallpaper or painting are planned as the final coating, and the base is not level everywhere, it should be leveled.
Today we will discuss how to properly apply putty on the wall.

Putty is used to level surfaces and obtain a perfectly smooth, even base.

This is achieved by applying it to the walls, and the thickness of the irregularities dictates what thickness should be applied.

The final stage is grinding, eliminating small irregularities, bumps, and remaining marks from the tool. Then move on to priming and finishing.

Preparation for putty

The preparatory stage boils down to removing the previous finish, removing flaking and loose fragments, dirt and dust deposits.

The wallpaper is moistened with water or various removers are used, then it can be easily removed. To make the work go faster, read the recommendations on how to remove wallpaper.

If leveling is done using old putty, check how it holds up. If it is strong enough, then you can work on it. If it peels off in some places, remove it.

If there are irregularities in the form of depressions, pits, grooves, they should be puttied. The next step is to prime the base, dry it, and it is prepared.

Let's briefly get acquainted with putty compositions, then consider how to properly apply putty to the wall.

Main types of putty

According to the composition of the included components:

Cement based putty. The main advantage is its great strength and resistance to high humidity, which expands the range of applications.

It is used not only for interior decoration, but also serves as an excellent material for exterior work - it is not for nothing that builders call it “facade”.

Wall putty

Gypsum putty produced on a gypsum basis. This type of putty composition is inferior in strength to cement putty, but levels the surface well.

It is better not to use it in rooms with high humidity and possible temperature changes. This type is for dry rooms.

Polymer putty(acrylic, latex) contains binding polymer components, which characterize it as a plastic mixture with good adhesion, which makes it possible to obtain a perfectly smooth base. It can be called universal due to its excellent characteristics.

Dry or ready-to-use mixtures:

• Putty is available as a dry mixture, which is properly mixed in certain proportions with water before starting work. It is in demand because it is easy to work with, convenient to store and apply, and is inexpensive.
• Ready-to-use putty compounds convenient, but more expensive. If you have to putty a small area, then many will prefer to purchase this type of material so that there is less dirt and fuss with preparation.

Differences in putty according to purpose

Starting used at the initial stage of leveling, to eliminate large unevenness. It has a coarse structure due to the presence of larger granules than the finishing one. It can even out differences of up to 5mm in several layers, each of which should not exceed 2mm.

Finish is intended to complete the leveling process after processing with the “primary” and ultimately obtaining a smooth and even base. Leveling the walls with finishing putty is done after the starting layer has dried.

Its thickness is minimal - up to 1 mm. If the treatment surface is fairly flat, then in some cases it will be correct to apply only the finishing option.

There are also universal putties. These are 2-in-1 mixtures, but more expensive.

Wall putty technology

For quality production technological process To level, you should prepare your tools.

Tools for applying putty

• Dilution container;
• Mixer for mechanized mixing of dry compositions;
• Brush, roller, paint brush for priming;
• Spatulas different sizes– from 600 mm and below, a spatula for corners;
• Level for checking the evenness of the base;
• The rule is when it is necessary to level a thick layer;
• Beacons, sanding meshes or a grater for sanding;
• Putty compositions, starting and finishing options, water.

All tools must be cleaned and washed after finishing work.

Before we look in detail at how to properly apply putty on a wall, let’s prepare a putty mixture.

How to mix putty correctly

Each package contains instructions indicating the proportions of ingredients and the sequence of kneading operations. Ideally, the consistency of the mass should be like thick sour cream. Mixing putty composition

These are average standards; in some cases there are deviations. If you putty drywall, then it is more convenient to apply a thin layer with a more liquid solution.

At maximum application thickness, so that the solution does not slip or fall off, it is kneaded thicker. It should be remembered that the thicker the mixture, the faster it will set.

Consequently, the solution's production time is reduced; hurry to apply it, otherwise it will begin to harden and become unusable. Or make a smaller batch.

Read the instructions to know how to properly apply wall putty, but in brief it looks like this:

Water is poured into the container in the required quantity;

We measure the dry mixture by weight per liter of water, pour it into the water.

After getting wet, mix for a minute with a mixer. Let it brew for the same amount of time and, with secondary stirring, bring the solution to a homogeneous consistency. Leave for 5 minutes to “ripen”.

Having prepared the solution correctly, it is no longer advisable to add dry composition or water to it.

Let's move on directly to the technology of how to properly apply putty to the wall.

Applying starting putty

We determine the degree of evenness of the walls using a rule and identify problem areas that need to be improved. Mark the zero point - the mark to which the entire plane is drawn.

Applying the starting layer

The starting lineup performs a rough leveling. If there are protrusions, they are knocked down with a hammer drill or an ax.
To work, use a wide (working) spatula and a small one. Using a wide tool, apply the putty mass and level it.

A smaller spatula is held in the other hand - they apply the mixture onto a wide tool from a container, and remove the excess from the working spatula.

Tools

We begin to apply the starting composition from the corner with a wide spatula. Each master has his own skills, but the technology is the same - we apply the solution layer by layer, leveling the surface in different directions.

Apply the solution across the entire width of the working tool with a small spatula. Using a sweeping motion, pull the solution across the surface. Clean off the remaining mixture from the working tool and use a clean spatula to level the wall in the opposite direction.

In the middle of the wall, the putty mixture is applied to the dry area in the direction of the previous fresh layer, so that there are no stripes from the spatula on the putty areas. We stretch the solution in different directions.

When finishing work, check the quality of the surface. There should be no gaps between the base and the rail.

After the mixture has dried, sand the surface with meshes and a float.

Putty on internal wall corners - leveling is done with an angled spatula, many people make do with a wide one and prefer the rule. If you are working with a corner tool, then apply putty solution to the corner and move it along the corner with a spatula. Control the corner - it should be straight.

Putty external corners It will be quick and of high quality if you install perforated metal corners on the corners.
In addition to how to properly apply putty on a wall, you can add that if the surface is completely uneven, then it makes sense to install beacons.

Puttying walls along beacons

The process occurs as described above, but to obtain an even base we will set up beacons. Installation of beacons for putty will be done along a stretched cord.

Alignment by beacons

We find the place with the most uneven thickness and start from there. Plaster beacons, profiles, and wooden slats can be used as beacons.

We place them at a distance of the length of the rule, since it will slide along them. The beacons are fastened with putty and plaster (in increments of 150mm) strictly vertically, use a level.

As a rule, we level the solution between the lighthouse slats on which it rests. The plane turns out to be even; using putty you can put the surface of any curvature in order.

Final leveling of walls with putty

The finishing composition is used to bring the surface to perfect evenness for painting or gluing thin wallpaper. The finish eliminates the remaining flaws in the starting mixture.

Apply a thin layer (or two). Before this, apply a primer to the surface of the dry starting layer. After the finish has dried, sand it.

The building mixtures market has a large selection of putty materials from different manufacturers. These are Knauf, Geresit, Kreisel, Scanmix and others. Depending on the type of room, choose the one that is suitable in terms of characteristics and price.

How to properly apply putty on a wall is not such a complicated process. The main thing is to start and follow the instructions, the skill will appear, the process will go faster. You will be able to cope with the work on your own.

We continue our series of articles about do-it-yourself wall putty. Today we’ll talk about puttying ordinary walls - brick or panel (but not plasterboard), although the process diagrams are similar.

Classification and types of putties

Putties are classified into gypsum, cement and polymer.

Disadvantages and advantages of each type.

1. On a gypsum basis: They are low cost, they are perfectly leveled and do not shrink. The disadvantage here is their low resistance to moisture, which limits their scope of application. Gypsum wall putties should be used in dry rooms, and their use in rooms with high humidity or with a large temperature difference is unacceptable. The cost of one bag (20 kg) averages from 250 rubles.
2. Cement: They have a high degree of resistance to moisture, but their degree of shrinkage is just as high. This requires re-puttying. Such mixtures can be used in rooms with high humidity, such as the kitchen or bathroom.(read the article about puttying walls under wallpaper). Cement wall putties become stronger when dry, but over time they lose their elasticity, which can lead to the appearance of microcracks. The price for this type of putty starts from about 200 rubles/bag (25 kg).
3. Polymer: have a lot of advantages: they perfectly resist moisture, do not shrink, and allow you to achieve high quality treated surfaces. The only disadvantage here can be considered the high cost - starting from 290 rubles / bag (20 kg).
4. Leveling: designed for leveling walls after applying plaster. They have a high grain size, good strength and excellent adhesion to the surface. Recommended layer thickness is from 3 to 20 mm. Price: from 230 rub./bag (20kg).
5. To obtain a perfectly smooth surface and eliminate small flaws after leveling the walls, use finishing mixtures. They are inferior in strength to leveling putties. Applying them is not difficult. Recommended layer up to 4mm. Cost from 280 rubles/bag (20kg).
6. Universal mixtures combine the properties of finishing and leveling wall putty, but at the same time cost more - from 320 rubles/bag (20 kg). They are used on surfaces with minor imperfections, because... The quality is somewhat inferior to both types.

In addition to the composition putties are divided into leveling, finishing (for example, for the last stage of putty) and universal.

Putties are available in dry form, as well as in the form of ready-made mixtures. Dry putties last much longer and are much cheaper than ready-made mixtures.

They are produced in special bags. Their preparation is not labor-intensive: the powder is simply diluted with water using a special mixer in accordance with the instructions on the package. Of course, using a ready-made composition is much more convenient. However, if the applied layer is less than 2 mm, then such mixtures cannot be used. They also shrink a lot. Ready-made putty compositions are produced in special plastic buckets.

Which putty should I choose to putty the walls?

When asked which putty to choose for walls under wallpaper, we can say that when choosing putty you should take into account the working conditions, the quality of the surface being treated and the desired result. To purchase quality material, you should make purchases in branded construction stores.

You shouldn’t go to all sorts of markets to save money. This is where the risk of purchasing counterfeit products is high. A simple tip when choosing putty: you should pay attention to the packaging date. It is applied with precision down to the second. If you notice that the entire batch is packed in an instant, then most likely it is better to refuse such a purchase.

In general, the shelf life of putty is from 6 to 12 months in dry rooms at room temperature. After the expiration date, the putty loses its properties - it stops setting quickly. When purchasing, you should pay attention not only to the date of manufacture, but also to the integrity of the packaging. Bags with dry mixture should not be damaged, and buckets with ready-made solution should be tightly closed.

Scheme of working with a grinding stone

Video instruction

Instructions: how to putty the walls yourself

To putty walls with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

1. A drill with a “mixer” attachment and a container for diluting the composition (required when using a dry mixture).
2. Set of spatulas: small, large, angled. When working, you have to deal with different areas of surfaces - each of them has its own spatula. Spatulas are available in sizes 20mm, 40, 60, 80, 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800mm. Narrow ones up to 80mm are used for hard-to-reach places. Spatulas with a width of 80 and 100 mm are called stacking spatulas - they are used to take the mixture out of the bucket and apply it to a working spatula. Spatulas with a width of 200 and 300 mm are used to level out irregularities that are small in width and length. Wider spatulas are used to level highly curved surfaces.
3. Rollers or brushes. They are necessary for priming walls for putty. The primer should not be skipped, as this improves the adhesion of the mixture to the surface and improves the quality of work.
4. The rule is to need it in places where putty is applied in a thick layer. A long metal rule is convenient when leveling thick layers of putty from walls. The rules come in different lengths - 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m. The optimal rule is 2m long. However, it is better to choose a convenient size of the rule individually.
5. A level for installing test beacons (as for) before applying starting putty to the walls. Levels range in length from 20cm to 2.5m. For domestic purposes, it is not necessary to buy the largest one; a level of 0.5 m to 1 m is quite sufficient.
6. Sandpaper - to obtain a perfectly smooth surface. It is better to purchase sandpapers with a grain size from 60 to 100. Sandpaper 60 is suitable for the basic stage (you should not take less than 60, as it will be too rough), and fine sandpaper 100 for grouting the finishing layer (skin above 100 will become heavily clogged with dust). It is more convenient to grout the walls after puttying using a manual sander.

Preparing the wall surface

Falling layers of plaster should be removed

Before applying putty to the walls under the wallpaper, you should prepare the surface to be treated. It must be clean without any stains of grease, soot, paint, etc. Falling layers of plaster should be removed. It is strictly not recommended to start work if the walls or ceiling are frozen.

Before puttingty walls, it is necessary to apply a primer to improve adhesion. One coat of primer is enough.

Starting putty of the wall surface

Plastering is done using special beacons, which help to apply the solution more evenly.

Starting putty is performed using coarse material (starting putty). This material is convenient to use when there are large differences in walls to hide unevenness and remove grooves and holes. The thickness of such a layer, applied at a time, can be up to 1.5 cm. To apply subsequent layers, you must wait until the previous one has dried.

If the differences in wall levels are more than 5 cm, then in this case, before applying the putty, the walls are plastered. Plastering is done using special beacons, which help to apply the solution more evenly. Before applying plaster, the walls are primed with a special solution, and before each layer of plaster they are additionally sprayed with water. Apply the plaster with a special spatula with a sharp wave of the hand. For better adhesion with the subsequent layer, the first layer should be given a slight roughness. As a rule, all movements are performed from the bottom up. After applying the plaster, it is leveled according to the rule.

Often, a special painting mesh is used to obtain high results.

Often, a special painting mesh is used to obtain high results. It is mounted on the wall (read a good article about), and putty (or plaster, if necessary) is applied on top. In this case, the putty adheres better, and the surface becomes much stronger and smoother. The painting mesh is attached to the first layer of putty without waiting for it to dry. The prepared piece of mesh is pressed into the still wet layer of putty. After drying, a second layer of putty is applied. This way, the mesh remains in the middle of the leveling layer of putty. The tensile strength of such a layer increases significantly, which helps to avoid the appearance of cracks.

The finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks.

How to putty: final stage

After completing the starting stage, finishing putty must be applied to the wall. Its main goal is to make the surface perfectly smooth and beautiful. If the starting putty was performed poorly, then using the finishing mixture will not correct the situation. The finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks. Therefore, before finishing, you should achieve a perfectly flat surface.

To process smooth corners, use a corner spatula.

1. When using a dry mixture, it is necessary to properly prepare the solution. It should be smooth and slightly stick to the spatula.
2. Using a large spatula at an angle of 30°, apply the starting putty in small portions. The putty should be applied diagonally, overlapping each subsequent stroke to avoid transitions and bumps.
3. To process smooth corners, use a corner spatula. First, use a small spatula to apply the mixture over the entire height of the corner. Then, using a corner spatula, level the surface of the corner.
4. After the starting layer has completely dried, the finishing putty is applied using a small and large spatula. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture in small portions onto a large one and apply it evenly to the surface. Layer thickness is about 1.5 -2mm.
5. After the putty has completely dried (this takes about 12 hours), you can begin finishing sanding with fine sandpaper.

To putty walls with your own hands, it is important to carry out all stages of the work efficiently and responsibly. In this case, you can get excellent results and save a lot on work.

Good luck with your renovation!

Puttying walls is not only a mandatory stage of a major overhaul, but also a necessary procedure before partial cosmetic changes to the interior.

In order to enjoy the process and the result when painting and covering walls with your own hands, you must first learn how to putty, otherwise the irregularities, wrinkles and dimples appearing on freshly painted walls can become a long-lasting demonstration of the negligence of the home craftsman.

Types of putty materials

Putty is a material that covers the wall when leveling, sold in finished form or in the form of a dry mixture. The assortment available for sale differs not only in quality, but also in composition.

The most universal are gypsum dry mixtures, which are suitable for treating any surface, are easy to apply and retain their shape when dried. For maximum moisture resistance, cement mixtures are used.

There are also ready-made gypsum cement mortars based on polymer emulsion, which combine all the positive effects of gypsum and cement putty. The container with such putty must be kept closed, it dries quickly and loses quality.

Acrylic mixtures have the highest quality indicators: they are more expensive and are sold in dry and diluted form.

Dry putty powder is diluted in water using a construction mixer; dilution details can usually be read on the packaging.

The main thing is to get a homogeneous mass, not too liquid to run off the walls, and not too hard to ensure perfect adhesion to the surface.

It must be remembered that ready-made putty solutions, regardless of whether they are prepared from a dry mixture or an open container with ready-made putty, are short-lived and are not suitable for use after 24 hours.

Putty stages

To prepare for puttying, you need to clean the walls - remove a layer of old wallpaper, paint, and if there is mold, treat the surface with special solutions.

After cleaning, you need to wait the time necessary to dry the walls and ceiling. Then you need to make a single-layer or two-layer primer, which will create a protective moisture-resistant layer and facilitate the adhesion of the putty material to the surface.

When leveling walls with putty, two spatulas are used, the one larger in size- for taking a portion of the mixture and another - for applying it. The sizes of the tools depend on the size of the area being treated. To process corners, special corner spatulas are used.

The mixture, which should have the consistency of sour cream, is applied to the wall with smooth movements in a semicircle.

If the surface of the walls is uneven, a special painting mesh is attached to them, onto which the first layer of putty is applied. Explicit and localized defects are processed separately.

After drying, a second layer is applied, the surface of which is adjusted by level and plumb lines. Then - a final thin layer, which can be made from special mixtures that provide maximum smoothness.

The last stage of leveling the walls is to process them with sanding paper on a special holder. When puttying under wallpaper, you need to use sandpapers with a grain size of 80 to 120; if painting is to be carried out, use more grainy sandpapers - p120-150.

A close-to-ideal smooth surface of the walls is not only an aesthetic, but also a hygienic requirement for repairs, and minimizes the accumulation of dust and the likelihood of the formation of harmful fungal cultures in the house.

DIY decorative plaster

After you have mastered the simple skills of priming and puttying walls and gained experience in diluting and applying various mixtures, you can proceed to more interesting and creative process production of decorative plaster - a textured outer layer.

Note!

Modern mixtures intended for putty contain polymers, which during the drying stages provide the plasticity necessary to obtain a decorative uneven texture. In this case, you can use both ordinary rollers and special stencils.

The most economical of the many options would be to make a simple gypsum putty, adding PVA glue, water and paint.

The decorative putty options shown in the photo can spur the imagination and inspire bold experiments for everyone who has already mastered the basics of cosmetic repairs.

Photo of do-it-yourself putty

Note!

Note!