Knitting women's jumper frosty patterns. Knitting

Pullover Frosty pattern.MK.

For a very long time I wanted to knit such a pullover. I spent quite some time sorting out the pattern and finally knitting it together. In my personal opinion, it turned out to be a very beautiful, very winter and quite stylish pullover with short sleeve(wear under a turtleneck).

I used Nako yarn (as on the hat - http://knitly.com/14799) 400 g, stocking and circular knitting needles No. 4.5, with elastic band No. 4.

The diagram used is shown below (the diagram is not mine, found on the Internet).

The pullover is based on a square napkin, which is knitted from the center. The diagram shows 1/4 of this napkin.

Instructions for the diagram.

To avoid a very tight ring in the center of the flower, I cast on 4 chain stitches and knitted the required number of stitches from them onto stocking needles. This makes the center of the flower look much neater.

When the central flower was ready, I switched to circular ones.

I separated the loops for the collar (I got 22 loops), this is for size 48.

You should end up with a square. Separate the loops for the sleeves, sides, and bottom onto additional knitting needles. Knit the second part (let's say the front one, with a large neckline) and sew the side and shoulder parts loop into loop.

Flower petals are knitted in the sleeves (I left 25 loops on the sleeves from the front and back), then 8 rows of 2*2 elastic.

The front and back parts were also lengthened with stockinette stitch by 7 cm, and then the elastic was 2*2 20 rows.

Finally, the collar is knitted with a 2*2 elastic band.
The pullover is ready!
Author tayra.

I used Nako yarn 400 g, stocking and circular knitting needles No. 4.5, with elastic band No. 4.

The diagram used is shown below (the diagram is not mine, found on the Internet).

The pullover is based on a square napkin, which is knitted from the center. The diagram shows 1/4 of this napkin.

Instructions for the diagram.

To avoid a very tight ring in the center of the flower, I cast on 4 chain stitches and knitted the required number of stitches from them onto stocking needles. This makes the center of the flower look much neater.

When the central flower was ready, I switched to circular ones.

I separated the loops for the collar (I got 22 loops), this is for size 48.

You should end up with a square. Separate the loops for the sleeves, sides, and bottom onto additional knitting needles. Knit the second part (let's say the front one, with a large neckline) and sew the side and shoulder parts loop into loop.

Flower petals are knitted in the sleeves (I left 25 loops on the sleeves from the front and back), then 8 rows of 2*2 elastic.

The front and back parts were also lengthened with stockinette stitch by 7 cm, and then the elastic was 2*2 20 rows.

Finally, the collar is knitted with a 2*2 elastic band.

The pullover is ready!

Residents of the site osinka.ru are actively studying how to knit this pullover. Knitting. Pullover "Frosty pattern". Master Class!

I used Nako yarn 400 g, stocking and circular knitting needles No. 4.5, with elastic band No. 4.

The diagram used is shown below (the diagram is not mine, found on the Internet).

The pullover is based on a square napkin, which is knitted from the center. The diagram shows 1/4 of this napkin.

Instructions for the diagram.

When the central flower was ready, I switched to circular ones.

I separated the loops for the collar (I got 22 loops), this is for size 48.

Flower petals are knitted in the sleeves (I left 25 loops on the sleeves from the front and back), then 8 rows of 2*2 elastic.

The front and back parts were also lengthened with stockinette stitch by 7 cm, and then the elastic was 2*2 20 rows.

Finally, the collar is knitted with a 2*2 elastic band.

The pullover is ready!

Residents of the site osinka.ru are actively studying how to knit this pullover.

Let's start knitting indescribable beauty for ourselves and our loved ones... frosty patterns
First I shared my find... and since there were many of us who wanted to knit this beauty... we started knitting together... in company...
The survey took place in two posts... because I violated the group rules with the second post... and the post was moved to my diary
Poll in the Country of Mothers:

Would you like to link this beauty online?

72 users took part in the survey.
in total there are 176 of us who want to start immediately
and 197 people can join us... and that's great
I’m honestly telling you... I knitted it according to the pattern... I took thin threads... 240m/100g... it looks like my little one-year-old daughter... it has grown a little...

What we need to know first...
1) The sleeveless vest is knitted from the center front/back and then in the round. At the same time, if desired, the back of this sweater can be knitted in the same openwork pattern as the front, or it can be knitted simply with stockinette stitch.

2) TIPS from girls from Osinka:
The right yarn is the key to success! Since the knitting pattern does not involve changes, i.e. the pattern is such that it is very difficult to shorten or lengthen it, the size of the future product depends entirely on the thickness of the yarn and the size of the knitting needles. The yarn should not only be of a suitable size, but also quite voluminous (that’s why I chose acrylic for knitting). Before starting knitting, I recommend trying to knit a sample from various types yarn (and different numbers of needles), then wet the samples and dry on a flat surface.
I recommend knitting the central “Star” pattern for the sample, then measure the length of the diagonal (from the edge of one ray of the star to the opposite edge, passing through the center) and multiply by a factor of 2.3. The resulting value in centimeters will mean the approximate (!) length of the diagonal of the finished sleeveless vest, which will be obtained by continuing knitting with the selected yarn and knitting needles.

3) By meter, take yarn from 100m/100g to 200m/100g no thinner...

4) We will need 5 toe knitting needles, the number of knitting needles depends on the yarn... but not thinner than No. 4, a hook similar to the number of knitting needles and 2 pairs of short knitting needles on a fishing line, the same numbers as the hook with toe knitting needles...

5) From the girls from Aspen, a pattern has been developed for sizes 44-46... in their case, the diagonal of the “Star” is 23 cm, the length of the diagonal of the finished front is approx. 53 cm. The length of the side of the square can be calculated as the length of the diagonal divided by 1.4. From here we get that the side length is approx. 38 cm. All these calculations were made in a non-stretched form; similar values can be calculated on a stretched sample.

It is recommended (especially for beginner knitters) to knit the back with an openwork pattern, since in this case both the front and the back are equally elastic (due to knitting in the round knitted fabric stretches equally well in all directions), in addition, with this method of knitting, seams can be completely avoided by connecting the loops with a knitted seam, i.e. loop to loop.

When knitting the front and back openwork, I recommend starting with knitting the back - it will be a simple square (without a neckline recess), in the front you need to knit a neckline recess.
1. Back. We knit according to the pattern. The diagram shows 1/4 of the pattern. Please note that the diagram shows only odd rows, about even rows, i.e. purl... I will write below.
This is a more complete diagram... the square is larger

The set of loops of the first row must be done as follows: cast on 16 single crochets and distribute them on stocking needles, as shown in the figure:
(I’ll describe it in more detail below)

This diagram is slightly different from the previous one

This is the pattern for the sleeveless vest taken from this napkin

Symbols for the diagram (front odd rows):

For even purl rows:
where were the facials - facials
where were 2 together - remove the loop, thread at work
where 1 yarn over - 1 knit from a crossed yarn over
where 2 yarn overs - k1, p1 (this is IMPORTANT!)
where the crossed loop is the crossed knit stitch
where 3 together - 1 knit

So. We crochet 16 loops into the sliding loop. Using knitting needles, pull the loops onto the knitting needles from the hook loops (4 knitting needles on each with 4 loops = 16 loops). We attach a marker, there is no marker then a contrasting thread. This will be the beginning and end of the row.

Knit 3 rows in the round. All stitches are knitted.

We knit further. So, we knitted 4 rows (1 row, sliding loop and elongated loops, and 3 more rows).

5th row: 1 crossed loop, 4 yarn overs, 2 crossed loops, 4 yarn overs, crossed. a loop. Repeat 3 more times on the remaining 3 knitting needles.
6th row. Purl row. Where is the cross. I advise you to knit the loop crossed (this is important), we knit 4 yarn overs, k1, p1, k1, p1. Repeat 3 times.
7th row. A row of faces. All face loops.
8th row. Purl row. All face loops.

9-row. persons row. In the diagram, 2cm with a slant to the left, those who knit on the top lobe, remove from the knitting needle and turn the loops, return them to the left knitting needle, knit 2cm over the bottom slice., 1knit, 2 yarn overs, 1knit, 2cm with a tilt to the right, behind upper lobules. And so on until the end of the row. Strictly according to the scheme
10-row. purl, row. This is IMPORTANT, the loops are knitted 2cm, remove the loop, the thread behind the knitting needle. So we knit in the round, where there are 2cm. Knit-knit, 2 yarn overs (k1, p1)
From the 11th row to the 14th row - we knit as the 9th and 10th rows.

15 row. A row of faces. 2wm with a tilt to the left, 1knit., 2 yarn overs., 1knit., 2wm with a tilt to the right for the upper lobes, yo, 2wm with a tilt to the left, 1knit., 2 yo., 1knit., 2wm with a tilt to the right for the upper lobes, 2 yo . Repeat 3 times.

Row 16: Purl. row. Remove 1 p, thread at work, k1, from 2 yarn overs - k1, purl 1, k1, 1 p. thread at work, slip 1 p, thread at work, k1, from 2 yarn overs - k1, p1, k1, k1, slip. thread at work; repeat 3 times.

Row 17: Knit row. 2vm with a tilt to the left, 1 knit, 2 yo, 1 knit, 2 yo with a tilt to the right for the upper segments, yo, 1 knit, yo, 2 knit with a tilt to the left, 1 knit., 2 yo., 1 knit, 2 yo with a tilt to the right for top slices, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over. Repeat 3 times.

Row 18: Purl. row. Remove 1 st, thread at work, k1, from 2 yarn overs - k1, purl 1, k1, remove 2 sts. thread at work, k1, slip 1 p, thread at work, k1, from 2 yarn overs - k1, purl 1, k1, slip 1. thread at work, k1; repeat 3 times.

Row 19: Knits. row. 2vm with a slant to the left, 1knit., yarn over, 1knit., 2vm with a slant to the right, for the upper lobes, yarn over, 3knit, yo, 2vm with a slant to the left, 1knit., yarn over, 1knit., 2vm with a tilt to the right for the upper lobes, Yarn over, knit 3, yarn over. Repeat 3 times.

Row 20: Purl. Row 1 p, remove thread at work, k1, from yarn over - k1, k1, k1, remove. thread at work, k3, slip 1 p, thread at work, k1, from yarn over - k1, k1, slip 1. thread at work, 3 persons; repeat 3 times.

Please note that when knitting the “Star” pattern, the pattern is not flat, but convex. Subsequently, after washing and drying, the pattern will straighten.

21st row: Knits. row. 2vm with a tilt to the left, 1 knit, 2vm to the right, yarn over, 5 knit, yo, 2vm to the left, 1 knit, 2 ym to the right, yo, 5 knit, yo, and so on 3 times.

Row 22: Purl. row. 1 p slip, thread at work, k1, slip 1 p, thread at work, k7, 1 p slip, thread at work, k1, 1 p slip, thread at work, k7. Repeat 3 times.

Row 23: Knit row. yarn over, 3tog (slip 1 loop, knit 2 together, pull through the removed one), 2 yarn overs, k7, yo, 3 together, yo, k7, yo. Read 3 times.

24 row. Out. row. K1, where there was 3 in, we knit knit, 2 yarn overs, (k1, p1,) all the rest according to the pattern. Please note that we knit all the yarn overs between the petals.

The star is closer

Closer look at the pattern

25-row. Persons row. from 1 loop, knit 2, (1 for the top slice, 1 for the bottom slice), 1 knit, from 1 loop, knit 2, (1 for the top slice, 1 for the bottom slice), 9 knits, yo, 1 knit, yo, 9 knits. Repeat 3 times.

26 row. Purl row. all facial.
27 row. Persons row. from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, k2 to the left, k8, yarn over, k1, yarn over, k8, k2 to the right. Repeat 3 times. (We start knitting 5 petals from 1 petal)

Thanks to Mishutina's mother, there are readable diagrams

Row 28: Purl. row, k10, slip 1, thread at work, k19, slip 1, thread at work. Repeat 3 times.

29 row. Faces, row. Sk stitch, 2 yarn overs, 2 stitches, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn over loops, 2 yarn overs, 1 yarn overs, 2 stitches to the left, 17 knits, 2 yarn overs to the right. Repeat 3 times
Row 30 Purl row. Sk stitch, k1, p1, 2sk, k1, p1, 2sk loops, k1, p1, 2sk, k1, p1, 2sk loops, k1, p1, 1sk, 1p remove. thread at work, k17, 1p, remove. thread at work. Repeat 3 times
31st row. A row of faces. Sk stitch, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k 1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k 1, 2 yo ,K1, 1skr, 2vm left, 15knits, 2vm right. Repeat 3 times.

Knitting 47 and 48 rows

We tie the square according to this pattern

After the pattern is completely knitted, we transfer all the loops to the auxiliary thread (the thread should be long enough so that you can freely distribute all the loops along it and lay out the back in the form of a square).
Then it is recommended to wash the back and dry it on a flat surface, stretching it slightly so that the pattern becomes flat.
When using wool or cotton yarn, the product can also be ironed (under no circumstances should yarn with acrylic be ironed!).

2. Front We knit similarly to the back. In the 38th row of the pattern, to form the neckline, remove the middle 9 knit stitches onto an auxiliary needle. (These are the last last stitches when knitting in a circle, then the next row will follow)
Next, we switch to knitting with front and back rows, continuing to knit the pattern according to the pattern.
To form a deepening of the neckline, to the right and left of the removed loops, at the end of each row we unknit several loops, and also transfer them to the auxiliary knitting needle:
in rows 38-41 - unknit 2 loops on each side, in subsequent rows - unknit 1 loop.
If you knit 48 rows... then we start forming the neckline not from the 38th row, but from the 40th.

Forming the neckline at the front.

After the front is completely knitted, we transfer the neck loops to one auxiliary thread and tie the ends of this thread in a knot. We transfer all the remaining front loops to another auxiliary thread, and it is recommended to start stringing loops from the neck, i.e. first transfer the shoulder loops, then the side surface, bottom, etc.
After transferring all the loops, break the auxiliary thread, leaving long ends on both sides so that all front loops can be freely distributed on the thread and laid out on a flat surface. This stringing is necessary to make it more convenient to sew the shoulder seam loops in the future.
Wash and dry the front, laying it out on a flat surface.

3. Assembly. Fold the front and back with the wrong sides facing each other so that the pattern on them matches.
Then we sew the loops of the shoulder seam with knitted seams, as follows:

In this case, it is recommended to start stitching from the neckline and go in the direction of the sleeve neckline. Do not secure the ends of the thread you are sewing with, but leave the ends approx. 15 cm free. This is necessary in case it is necessary to make a few more stitches in both parts - at the beginning or at the end of the shoulder seam.
Another important point: the shoulder seam goes from the neckline to the third (central) petal of the pattern; it is recommended to sew a couple more loops after this petal. This is necessary so that the seam fits better on the shoulder and so that the cuff of the armhole does not bulge upward.
This is approximately 17 loops.

Next, we sew the loops of the side seams in the same way: from the middle of the side and further down to the third central petal.
It is recommended to sew together 2-3 additional loops in these seams at the bottom to narrow the sweater at the waist and leave the ends of the thread free so that you can sew or unravel several stitches if necessary.
Approximately side seams contain 30 loops.

4. We transfer the remaining loops of the neck, sleeves and bottom to separate auxiliary threads.
Please note that all these elements will be knitted with a 3 by 3 elastic band (or, if desired, 2 by 2), and therefore the number of loops in them should be a multiple of 6 (or 4, for a 2 by 2 elastic band).
The number of loops for the neck, sleeves and bottom can be adjusted using the thread ends left when stitching (for example, sew or unravel 1-2 loops), as well as using decreases, i.e. knitting 2 loops together (it is important to distribute the decreases evenly around the entire circumference).
By the way, at this stage the sweater can already be tried on your figure.
Sleeve knitting pattern (optional)

5. We transfer the sleeve loops (about 48 loops) to the knitting needles and knit 7 rows (2.5 cm) with a 3 by 3 elastic band, close the loops, tightening them a little so that the cuffs do not puff up.

According to the experience of knitters, it was said that it was not immediately possible to achieve the required elasticity of the edge, which led to the fact that the head did not fit into the sweater or the edge of the bottom was very tight on the product :-)
The problem was that we tried various ways closing the loops, having not found the most elastic method, so we decided to knit the neckline of 54 loops and the bottom elastic of 90 loops separately, and then sew them to the sleeveless vest with a knitted seam.

Thus, the problem of elasticity of the edge was solved; in addition, a clear advantage of this method was that it was easier to arrange the elastic band beautifully and symmetrically relative to the openwork pattern.
The neckline and bottom consist of 40 rows (15 cm), knitted with a 3 by 3 elastic band.

7. The finished product can be washed again, dried on a flat surface and ironed.
Attention! Yarn containing acrylic cannot be ironed!

Successful embodiments of the sleeveless "Frosty patterns" by knitters.
(if anyone recognizes themselves in the photo and doesn’t like it... please write... I’ll delete it)

If you want to knit beautiful product with a frosty pattern, then this article is just for you. In it you will learn how to knit such a pattern according to a pattern with a description. At first glance it may seem that this is very difficult to do, but this is not at all true. Even a beginner will be able to deal with the frosty openwork and understand the entire working process.

To knit a small fabric with such a pattern, you will need knitting needles on a short fishing line number 5, a hook and any yarn that you have. Crochet one sliding buttonhole and cast on sixteen links. Then transfer the loops to four tools, 4 stitches respectively for each. Next, knit three stripes of faces. loops. Fifth person. R. is created according to the proposed scheme: a crossed loop, then four yarn overs, two crossed loops, four yarn overs and crossed again. Thus, repeat these steps three more times. The sixth row will be purl, it starts with a cross. p., four throws of thread, k1. p., 1 p. p., 1 persons. and 1 purl. n. In the seventh stripe there are all links of persons. The eighth line will be purl, but the links are knitted according to the pattern on the face. At the heart of this fabric, which is knitted frosty pattern, there is a square napkin. And you yourself decide what to create from it in the future.

Knitting continues. The ninth row will be faces. Tie two loops together, slanting to the left, then remove the links and turn them. Next, cast them on the left needle again and knit as follows: k1. etc., thread the thread twice, knit 1 again. p., 2 along with a tilt to the right side. Finish the strip using the diagram as a guide. In the tenth line you should do this: persons. p., knit with face, then you need to perform two stitches, knit 1. method, and the second purl. From the eleventh to the twentieth row, knit a frosty pattern of only faces. stripes.

Twenty-first r. there will be persons. Knit according to the pattern. Two joints with a tilt to the left side, 1 person. p., two with a slant to the right, nak., five faces. p., again you need to throw a thread, two together to the left, knit 1, two together to the right side, nak., five knits. and yarn over. Do this manipulation three times. In the new style, the ornament is made according to the pattern on the wrong side. The twenty-third strip will be purl, knit three joints, that is, remove 1, and make the other two with the face, stretching the removed thread through them, two throws of thread, seven knits, nac., three joints with a yarn over, seven knits. n. and again nak.

New circular purl. R. knits faces. in those places where 3 joint loops were previously made. All sketches that are made between the petals will be facial. The frosty knitting pattern continues, the twenty-fifth row is knitted like this: 1 l. p., then from one knit two, nine l. p., nak., 1 l. n., again yarn over and nine faces. n. Twenty-sixth circular r. will be done inside out, according to the drawing. Twenty-seventh r. begins by knitting two pieces from 1 stitch, do this three times, then two together with a tilt to the left, eight stitches. p., thread cast, 1 l. p., cast, eight l.p., 2 joint to the right side and end the line by creating two things from 1 p. at once. Complete the next row according to the diagram. Thus, you need to knit forty-five stripes to get a full-fledged frosty pattern. The finished fabric can become the basis for a future pullover or blouse. If you knitted the pattern strictly according to the pattern, then you will get a square. Place new loops for the sleeves on an additional tool, and then make another similar square, just make the neckline a little larger - this will be the front part of the future jacket. Make side and shoulder seams. The jacket can be made longer by making several rows stockinette stitch and 2 x 2 elastic bands. Close the loops in the usual way. Such an ornament can be an addition to other designs or the main one on the entire canvas.