Knitting how to knit a shawl collar. Knitting a shawl collar

We have already looked at how to do it calculation of knitting a shawl collar in the longitudinal direction , in practice, very often such a collar is knitted in the transverse direction. It can be knitted in one independent piece or with a seam along the middle of the back and then sewn to the product way into your pocket . Or you can cast on loops along the edges of the parts of the shelves and back, sewn along the shoulder lines. But the calculation will be the same, only the execution will differ.

After the pattern of a shelf with a shawl collar has been built on a reduced scale, transfer the collar detail onto tracing paper. To do this, place a sheet of tracing paper folded in half on the pattern, aligning the fold of the paper with the line of the middle of the collar. Outline only the collar, then cut along the outline, unfold the piece, and outline the collar completely. You should end up with a shawl collar like this, along with the strips of the product.

I divided the drawing of a solid knit collar into sections for which measurements need to be taken. Depending on what pattern the collar will be knitted, there will be a different calculation principle.

Most often, such a collar and trims are knitted with a 1x1 or 2x2 elastic band. This knitting is elastic, and the calculation for it is simpler. Let's start with it. What is good about this knitting for such collars? Pay attention to the drawing: the sum of the lengths of segments 1" - 8" will be greater than the sum of the lengths of segments 1 - 8. Due to the elasticity of the elastic, the number of loops when knitting this collar does not change, it lies beautifully, the elastic at the base is compressed, and along the take-off line straightened. Therefore, in order to understand how many loops you need to cast on from the sections of the parts, you need to measure the lengths of the segments 1" - 8" according to the drawing to scale with a tailor's ruler, and with a centimeter tape - a sample of the elastic band.

After this, make a calculation of how many loops you need to cast on in total, but taking into account the characteristics of each section of the collar. To prevent the bar from tightening the vertical sides of the shelves, the sample should be barely stretched, but measured in a free state, how the elastic behaves after the WTO. On the collar section, the sample needs to be slightly stretched and measured in the state of how you would like the collar to look along the flap of the collar at the very edge.

So, now that you have figured out the number of loops to cast on for the entire collar and trims, be sure to write down how many loops there are for each section, this will be useful in further work.

Segments (1-2) and (7-8) will fall on the vertical sections of the shelves;

(2-3-4) and (5-6-7) will correspond to the bevel of the neckline of the shelves;

(4-5) will fall on the back neckline.

To simplify the calculations, I will assume that the elastic density in all areas is the same and is:

24 p. = 10 cm wide

20 rub. = 10 cm in height

Let's say the lengths of the segments are:

(1-2) = (7-8) = 40 cm, or 24: 10 x 40 = 96 p.

(2-3-4) = (5-6-7) = 27 cm, or 24: 10 x 27 = 63 p.

(4-5) = 14 cm, or 24: 10 x 14 = 34 p.

Total (96+63) x 2 + 34 = 352 p.

As you can see, this results in a very large number of stitches, so for long cardigans, collars are knitted with a seam in the middle of the collar, which is aligned with the middle of the back.

The width of the straps and the width of the collar are different, so we will make a calculation for each part, calculating the number of rows separately for the straps and separately for the collar:

width of the bar (knitting height in sections (1-2) and (7-8)) = 5 cm, or 20: 10 x 5 = 10 r.

collar width at the widest part (knitting height in the section (3-4-5-6)) = 14 cm, or 20: 10 x 14 = 28 r.

As I mentioned above, the method that you chose for knitting the collar, separately knitted and then sewn “in the pocket”, or knitted using raised loops along the edge of the parts, will be slightly different in execution, for the calculation this is not important. This only affects the technology of knitting such a collar: loops will be gradually introduced into knitting or removed from knitting, but in what rhythm this must be calculated:

For 18 rub. - this is the difference in the height of the bar and the collar - you need to add (or subtract) 63 points on each side (sections (2-3-4) and (5-6-7)). This is done on each side in every second row, i.e. 18:2 = 9 times

63 p.: 9 times = 7 p.

Those. in each 2 r. 7 stitches are added (or subtracted) on each side of the central part of the collar.

Calculation of knitting a shawl collar The inelastic pattern is a little different from this one and we'll look at it in a future modeling tutorial.

In short, raised stitch knitting technology: the loops of the widest part of the collar are raised first, i.e. on the site (3-4-5-6), then gradually in every 2nd r. 7 stitches are added on each side until sections (2-3) and (6-7) are cast on. Then in the next 2nd r. loops are raised along the entire length of one plank, and in the opposite direction - the next row - the loops of the second plank. After this, we knit 10 rubles to the height of the bar. and close the loops in one step.

In short, technology of knitting a separate piece using the “pocket” method, starting from the outer (departure) part of the collar is as follows. All loops are cast on and knitted to the height of the bar, after which loops are laid on each side in sections (1-2) and (7-8) and then gradually, in every 2nd row, 7 stitches are removed from knitting on each sides 9 times. After 34 stitches remain in the knitting (section (4-5)), the row is knitted to the end and a “pocket” is knitted on all loops with a hollow elastic band.

In this publication, we will look at knitting one-piece shawl collars on jackets and pullovers. This detail is also called a shawl collar by needlewomen. This element gives a more sophisticated look to one or another knitted product. Every needlewoman who skillfully uses knitting needles can knit it. Most craftswomen, wanting to complement knitted clothing with a similar collar, encounter problems when knitting it, since there are quite a few ways to create it. We offer you several options to work with, as well as a detailed video lesson that will help you understand the process of knitting this element.

This collar is knitted from bottom to top along with the placket. To get such a detail, you need to knit eleven stitches according to the following pattern: k1, p1. in this case, you should start with the edge and one face.

Twenty-five to thirty centimeters before the shoulder line, you can begin making extensions for the shawl collar. In this case, it is necessary to knit the buttonholes of the plank, followed by the knit stitch. and next to it, cast on 1 purl. cross. stitches from a transverse thread (= thirteen stitches of a one-on-one pattern). Similar increases in loops are carried out further in all sixth rows (r.) and each time in a one-on-one pattern you need to knit two stitches more with knitting needles. This is done until the shawl collar reaches thirty-one stitches in width. After this, you can knit directly to the shoulder line.

At the next stage, you can fasten or remove the shoulder buttonholes onto an additional knitting needle and continue knitting the placket with knitting needles, casting in the first p. at the level of the shoulder cut there is an additional edge. Subsequently, this edge will be hemmed to the back neckline.

To knit the desired width of a shawl collar, follow the outer edge on all sides after every four r. knit with knitting needles five six times shortened r. - approximately three-quarters of all stitches. In a specific example, this is twenty-four p. Such shortened r. need to be knitted with a double crochet or with loops pulled through. In the photo, the shawl collar and shoulder bevels were made using broaching.

Thus, the knitting goes to the middle of the back neckline. Then, all the links must be removed onto an additional spoke. The second half of the front is performed similarly.

At the final stage, the buttonholes of both halves on the right and left sides must be transferred to two knitting needles, respectively, and sewn together using a loop-to-loop stitch. Next, the side edge of the shawl collar is hemmed to the back neckline.

Solid knitted shawl on a pullover

In our next training part of the article, we will look at another method of knitting a shawl collar, this time for pullovers.

In the photo below, we see an example of a knitted pullover with a fairly wide shawl collar. During the knitting process, doubling the middle twelve buttonholes was used to achieve this effect. At the same time, knitting such a collar can be started with six, eight or fourteen or more loops.

First, you should mark the central twelve points of the front of the product. In the case when the left bar needs to go onto the right one, it is necessary to knit the fabric up to the given twelve stitches. After this, knit 1 purl with knitting needles eleven times. cross. p. from a transverse thread and 1 persons. p., the final stitch will be an edge stitch (= twenty-three stitches of the one-on-one pattern). Then they continue to knit the fabric directly in height.

Let's consider another case, when, on the contrary, the right plank overlaps the left one. To do this, you should also knit the fabric up to the given twelve stitches, the first of which is a new edge stitch. Next, alternately knit 1 stitch with knitting needles eleven times. and increase 1 purl. cross. p. from a transverse thread. Then you can continue knitting the main pattern.

After this, as in the first case with the jacket, you should expand the pattern in all sixths of the row. for two buttonholes: knit the loop next to the placket links, add 1 purl next to it. cross. p. from a transverse thread. In the presented example of a pullover, a similar increase in loops was performed nine times (= eighteen additional stitches) or a total of forty-one stitches of the plank.
Knitting continues until the middle of the neckline. Here you need to knit forty-one sts and the adjacent faces. p. Then, along the inner edge, cast on 1 more additional edge (in order to sew) = forty-three p. To make extensions, starting from the shoulders, after four r. Knit the outer thirty stitches six times.

For the next placket, cast on twenty-three stitches along the inner edge of the top placket.
The buttonholes of the two halves of the collar on both sides must be transferred respectively to two knitting needles and sewn together using a loop-to-loop seam. At the final stage, the finished shawl collar is sewn to the back neckline.

Having finished with the theoretical part, let's move on to practice. IN next videos videos, for your reference, a detailed training master class from an experienced knitter is presented, which shows how to knit a shawl collar on a men's jacket with buttons step by step.

Schemes with model

You will need

• - Knitting;
• - knitting needles according to the thickness of the threads;
• - circular knitting needles of the same size;
• - product pattern.

Instructions

Model the pattern. Determine the width of the strip. Divide the resulting measurement by 2. Set this value aside on both sides from the middle of the front. If a product is supposed to have a clasp and there is only half a shelf on the pattern, set aside half the measurement from it inside the part. Extend the bar the same distance in the other direction.

Mark the location of the loops or buttons. The location of the top button depends on the style. This is also the starting point of the shawl collar. Divide the distance between this point and the bottom edge of the shelf into an equal number of parts. It depends on how many buttons you are going to sew on.

On the placket line opposite the top hole, place point 1, and mark the intersection point of the neckline and shoulder line as 2. Connect them with a straight line. From point 2, move up the size of the sprout along the same straight line. It can be from 5 to 8 cm, depending on the size of the clothing and the width of the collar. Place point 3. Draw a perpendicular to it towards the neckline and mark the width of the collar on it. This will be point 4. Draw a collar line by connecting points 1 and 4 with a smooth curve. This is suitable for any method of making a collar.

To knit a shawl collar at the same time as a front, calculate the loops by adding half the width of the bar to half the front. In this case, the placket and collar can be made using garter stitch, knit stitch or purl stitch. It depends on the main drawing. If it is performed mainly with facial loops, then for finishing it is better to take a pattern based on purl loops and vice versa.

Tie to the first hole. When knitting at the same time, it is better to perform horizontal loops. Cast off several stitches on one row and cast on the same number on the next. Make sure that the loops are strictly on top of each other. Having reached the top loop, begin knitting the collar. The classic shawl can be made almost straight, you just need to correctly make the line of its connection with the part. To do this, in each row, reduce the number of loops on the main part by 1 and increase the collar row by the same amount.

Having reached the neck line, begin to decrease along the outer edge of the collar by 1 loop in every fourth row. Along the inner edge in the same rows, add 1 loop, but not by reducing the number of loops on the main part, but using yarn overs. In the remaining rows, continue to decrease the loops of the main pattern and increase their number on the bar.

Having tied to the shoulder line, make a bevel. When only collar loops remain on the knitting needles, continue knitting, adding loops from the middle front side and decreasing from the shoulder side every fourth row. Tie to the height of the sprout and close the loops. Knit the second shelf in mirror image.

Knit the back to the top edge, then go to the pattern with which you knitted the placket and collar on the front, and knit in a straight line to the height of the sprout. Sew the pieces together using a knit stitch. In the same way, you can knit the collar separately from the other parts.

To make a collar with cross knitting, reduce the number of loops required for the front by half the width of the bar. Knit with straight fabric until the height of the top button, then from the fastener side, begin to lower loops 1 in each row or 2 per row, as when knitting raglan. Sew the shoulder and bind off the remaining stitches. Knit the second front and back.

Cast on loops for the placket and collar on circular knitting needles, knitting them from edge braids. Exactly how many loops you get depends on the thickness of the threads and knitting needles. The main thing is that the bar lies flat, does not tighten or dangle. The number of loops on both sides should be the same. This version of the strap and collar can be made, for example, with an elastic band. Facial and purl stitch, garter stitch. Tie to the expected middle of the placket and make holes for the buttons. In this case, vertical hinges are more convenient. Cast off the same number of loops at an equal distance from each other, pick them up in the next row and knit them to the end of the bar. Close the loops along the entire length.

The shawl can be modeled. For example, make the collar a little wider than the classic one. Close the loops in several stages, first from the bottom line of the shelves to the height of the top button and loop, then after a couple of rows - 10-20 loops on each side at the junction of the collar and the placket. Knit 2 more rows and bind off the remaining stitches.

You will need: yarn(100% wool, 100 m/50 g) -250(300)350(400)450(500) khaki, circular and sock knitting needles No. 3 and No. 3.5; 1 button.

Pearl knitting: knit alternately 1 person. p. and 1 p. p., shifting the pattern by 1 p. in each row.

Facial surface: faces. rows - persons. loops, purl rdy - purl. loops; at circular knitting only persons. loops.

Knitting density: 22 stitches in satin stitch on needles No. 3 = 10 cm.

Pullover for a boy with a shawl collar - job description

Front and back: on circular knitting needles No. 3, cast on 132(140)148(156)164(172) sts. Knit in the round with pearl stitch 5(5)6(7)8(8) cm. In the last row, evenly increase the number of loops to 146( 154)162(170)178(186). Make marks on the sides, marking 73 (77) 81 (85) 89 (93) stitches for the front and back. Change the needles to No. 3.5 and knit as follows: *14(15)16(17)1809) p. satin stitch, pattern according to pattern A, 27(29)31(33)35(37) stitches in pearl stitch, pattern according to pattern B, 14(15)16(17)18(19) stitches, satin stitch *, repeat* -*. Knit in this way to a height of 26(29)32(35)38(39) cm. Close off the armholes on both sides with 4 sts (2 sts on both sides of each mark). Next, knit each part separately.

Back: on the knitting needle 69(73)77(81)85(89) p. Knit in straight and reverse rows, closing for the armholes 2,2,1,1,1 p. on both sides = 55(59)63(67)71 (75) sts. At a height of 36(40)44(48)52(54) cm, remove the middle 23(25)27(29)31(33) sts for the neckline for additional. knitting needle and then knit each side separately. To round the neck, close from the inside in every 2nd row 1 p., 1 p.

At a height of 38(42)46(50)54(56) cm, bind off the remaining 14(15)16(17)18(19) shoulder stitches. Tie the other side symmetrically. Before: on the knitting needle 69(73)77(81)85(89) sts. Knit in straight and reverse rows, knitting the armholes in the same way as the back.

Attention! When you have knitted 3 rows, bind off the middle 27(29)31(33)35(37) stitches for the neckline and then knit the shoulders separately to the end. Right half: continue knitting according to the pattern until the height is 38 (42) 46 (50) 54 (56) cm. Bind off the loops. Tie the other half symmetrically.

Sleeves: on toe needles No. 3, cast on 36(38)40(42)44(46) sts. Knit in the round with pearl stitch 5(5)6(7)8(8) cm. Change the needles to No. 3.5, put a mark at the beginning row (middle from the inside). At the same time, in the 1st row, evenly add 4 stitches. At a height of 7(7)8(8)8(9) cm, add 1 stitch on both sides of the mark for the sleeve edging. Repeat the addition every 2.5 cm until there will be no work 52(56)60(66)70(74) sts. At a height of 24(27)30(33)36(40) cm, close 4 sts in the middle of the sleeve. Next, knit in straight and reverse rows, decreasing for the edge sleeves on both sides in every 2nd row 2 p., 2 p. Then close 1 p., on both sides, until the height of the edging is 5 (6) 7 (8) 9 (10) cm. After that, close in every 2nd row 2,3,4(2,3, 4)2,3,4(2,3,4,5)2,3,4,5(2,3,4,5) sts Cast off the remaining loops in one step.

Assembly: execute shoulder seams. For the collar on the face side of the neckline, using knitting needles No. 3.5, evenly cast on, starting from the right edge, 91(97)103(111)117(123) sts (including loops from additional needles). Knit in satin stitch, knitting along the edges. p. (always personal p.). Turn the work over and knit the shortened row: knit the right half, neck, left shoulder, turn the work over, remove 1 stitch without knitting, knit the right shoulder*, turn the product over, remove 1 stitch without knitting, knit 5 stitches after the previous place of the revolution*. Repeat *-*, almost to the bottom edge of the front neckline.

Attention! To prevent holes in your work at the turning points, knit the thread between two loops along with the trace. loop.

Continue knitting with all stitches until the length of the product is the same as where the closed loops of the front neck were. At the same time, on the left side, make 1 buttonhole at a height of 2 cm before the end of knitting and at a distance of 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (5) cm from the bottom edge of the neckline. Sew in the sleeves. Sew on a button.

Pattern diagram and pattern for knitted pullover for boy: