Collar pattern for a men's shirt with description. Processing a men's shirt collar: choosing a shape and preparing a pattern

I was organizing the folders on my computer and found these interesting collars.

There are a lot of them here, and perhaps even small, but maybe they will be useful to someone.

As you know, fashion is cyclical, and if these collars are not in fashion today, this does not mean that they will not be in demand in 5-10 years.

What I mean is that there is no need to write that they are too old-fashioned - everything comes back in fashion!1. Collar with a detachable stand for a men's shirt. It consists of two parts - the stand and the collar itself.

In general, this advice to everyone: if you want to cut out a collar and don’t know how to do it, what kind of collar would be better suited, but you don’t want to cut the fabric, then it’s best to cut out a collar you like from fake fabric (fabric that you don’t mind cutting, it’s better to choose the most suitable texture), and figure out how you like its shape and how it lies.

In this case, you will not ruin the fabric, and you will be able to evaluate the collar.

And it's not even that important women's shirt or men's - one construction.

By various techniques it is, of course, different, but this construction (EMKO method) is quite successful (although there are some angularities and shortcomings).

The shirt collar pattern consists of the collar itself and the stand.

Construction of the collar pattern:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay a segment equal to 7 - 8 cm, and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 6 - 8 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

4. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:

5. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point c) we build a perpendicular up and down, along which we put 1.5 cm in both directions, and put points at b1 and b2.

6. At point B we build a right angle.
BB1 = AA2 = 3 - 4 cm.

Draw the bottom of the rack parallel to the top. We complete the ledge equal to the width of the half-skid. The corner can be rounded or left as an angle - according to the model.

The width of the collar at the front and the design of the ends according to the model.

7. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

8. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

9. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 1 - 1.5 cm.

10. We draw the departure line with a smooth curve.

Happy building and sewing!

Quite often you can see shawl collar in clothes.

Such a collar is in demand in blouses, dresses, and even coats, although, probably, most often such a collar can be seen in a robe.

The shawl collar looks very dignified and can be made from almost any fabric.

Pattern it is also not complicated and can be built very quickly.

Constructing a pattern shawl collar(according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

2. Connect points B and L, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. From point A4, on the continuation of line A3-A4 to the left, set aside a value equal to the length of the back neckline and place point O.

4. From point O we lift up a perpendicular to the line A4-O, along which we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar = 4 cm - for stooped figures, 6 cm - for kinked figures, and we get point B3.

5. Connect points B3 and A4.

6. From point B3, perpendicular to B3-A4, draw a line to the middle of the collar.

7. Stand height:
B3-B2 = A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

8. We set aside the width of the departure according to the model, but not less than B3-B2 + (3 - 4 cm), and we get point B4.

9. We draw up the departure line according to the model.

Shawl collar in clothes:

It is presented below and is not anything complicated or scary.

So you don’t need to be so afraid, you can just read it carefully and everything will become clear.

Where can we see an apache collar?

Most often these are blouses and dressing gowns.

But such a collar can often be seen on a wedding bolero.

So, if you decide to sew a wedding bolero, then take note of this collar.

He classical and looks appropriate on many models.

This is, so to speak, a classic that never goes out of style.

Apache collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside the height of the stand A4-B = 3 cm.

2. Connect points L and B, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. Let's continue L-E line up and put it away from point B to the length of the back neck - put point B1.

4. From point F we draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to F-B1, along the arc to the left we lay off a segment B1-B2 = 5 cm.

5. Connect point B to point B2 with a straight line and, perpendicular to it from point B2, draw a line from the middle of the collar up and down.

6. From point B2 to the left on the line of the middle of the collar we lay off a segment:
B2-B3 = A4-B = 3 cm, and to the right B2-B4 = the width of the departure according to the model.

7. Position of the front end of the collar.
Point C - according to the model.

8. We draw the departure line and the edge of the collar to the inflection line L-B according to the model.

9. We draw the line for sewing the collar into the neck through point B3 tangentially to the neck, with A4-A41 = 0.5 - 0.8 cm.

This apache collar pattern may vary slightly, depending on the height of the stand.

You can make a turn-down stand:

Or you can make it so that the collar stands at the back, and only its ends are bent:

And you can even do something in between the two options described above:

Below is pattern of a stand-up collar for products with a combined fastener to the top and open to the style.

These collars are most widespread in shirt-style blouses and dresses.

What makes it special?

And the peculiarity is that, unlike turn-down collar patterns with a slight rise, this collar has a kind of one-piece stand-up and looks good both when buttoned and when unbuttoned.

The pattern of a stand-up collar is constructed as follows:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay off a segment equal to 2 cm and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 3 - 3.5 cm (height of the stand), and
put point B1.

4. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 8 - 10 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

5. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

7. From point A upward we set aside a distance equal to OB2.

8. Distance A3A4 - according to the model.

9. The collar stitching line touches the line OA at point (A1), located at a distance of 1/3 of the segment OA, from point A to the left.

We trace the collar along the control points.

There is a whole group of collars called "fantasy".

Fancy collars are obtained by spreading out the flap of a flat-lying collar of any shape.

These include a collar, which will be discussed below - this is a “mould” collar.

It is usually built on recessed neck.

I will give the construction using the EMKO method.

It is best to make a mold collar from silk fabrics, because... they will flow and lie very beautifully.

Its construction and pattern is very simple.

A2-B1 = 10 cm

A5-O = 9 cm or more

From the drawing we translate the collar pattern, draw cut lines on it, divide the pattern into 8 parts, along which we cut the pattern from the flyaway side and spread it apart.

The amount of expansion depends on the thickness and structure of the fabric, and can range from 10 to 20 cm.

We draw the departure line with a smooth line so that the collar fits nicely into the folds; it should be cut along the bias thread towards the middle of the collar, i.e. to the line A-B at an angle of 45 degrees.

Most often, such collars can be seen on blouses made in a romantic style, but you can also find coats with such collars.

DIY pattern - it's easy!

This is a shirt-type collar with a one-piece stand. For men's shirts.

Why did I decide to talk specifically about the men's collar? Because if you are a beginner, you will understand the basic principle of constructing and processing shirt collars at a time. Another variation of such collars is a collar with a cutting stand. Today we will build a collar with a one-piece stand-up, but they are very similar. And they have the same processing. I think you can easily master both types by following my recommendations for creating a pattern. And in the near future we will start processing the collar and connecting it to the neck.

Construction scheme:

The basic drawing of the collar fits into a rectangle.

Important: in order to accurately match the seams of sewing the collar neck into the neck of the shirt, you should remove the length of the neck seam from the patterns of the front and back of the shirt. Taking into account the area of increase for the fastener. That is, from edge to edge of the shirt.

Subsequently, this value in my construction is designated by the letter N.

Draw a right angle, label the vertex with the letter A.

Collar length:

From point A to the right we put N cm

(the length of the front neck and back of the shirt according to the measurements of the pattern, taking into account the fastener) and put point B (Fig. 1):

All pictures are clickable

A B = removed from the pattern, in our example 20 cm.

From point B downwards we draw a straight line of arbitrary length.

Collar width

From point A downwards we set aside 9.5 cm and place point A 1.

From point A 1 to the right we draw a horizontal line and at the intersection with the vertical we place point B 1.

Collar sewing line

Line A 1 B 1:

From point B 1 to the left, set aside 1/4 of the length of line A 1 B 1. Place point C.

Then from point A 1 upward we set aside 0.7 cm and place point A 2.

From point B 1 upward we set aside 1.5 cm - point B 2.

The collar stitching line is drawn from point A 2 through point C to point B 2.

Comment: The distance between point B 2 and point B 1 regulates the degree of fit of the collar to the neck in the front area. And the smaller it is, the smaller the fit. The stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle (point A 2).

Collar departure line

From point A downwards we set aside 3 cm and place point A 3.

From point B to the left we set aside 1 cm and place point B 3. We connect point A 3 with a smooth concave pattern line to point B 3 so that a right angle is formed at point A 3.

Front collar A

From point B 2 we move the perpendicular upward by 2 cm, and place point C 1.

From point C 1 to the left at a right angle we also set aside 2 cm and immediately up from the resulting point also perpendicularly 0.7 cm. We place point C 2.

We connect points C 1 and C 2 with a straight line.

We also connect points C 2 and B 3 with a straight line.

IMPORTANT! The length of line A 2 B 2 must exactly correspond to the seam where the collar is sewn into the neck of the shirt. Now you can check everything again and adjust the length of the line, if necessary, in the center line of the collar. Simply move the center line of the collar to the left or right.

Line A 2 A 3 – collar fold – lobe line.

From point C 2 to the left (repeating the bends of the line of the neck of the collar), you should draw a line of inflection of the collar stand.

This line is needed to apply the factory, fast and accurate method of processing collars, which I propose to process the collars of men's shirts.

Loop position

On the shirt, measure the zipper allowance - usually this distance is 1.5-1.7 cm.

From point B2 to the left along the neck line, set aside the value of this allowance. Place the S point.

This point gives us a reference point for the position of the loop.

In stand-up collars of all types, the loop is always located perpendicular to the center line of the front. Point S – indicates the position of the center line of the shelf on the collar. From point S we draw a perpendicular upward to the inflection line of the collar stand.

Divide the resulting line in half and mark the position of the loop. In the drawing, the right end of the loop - the beginning of the loop - protrudes 2 mm beyond the center line of the shelf. The drawing is ready.

Special techniques in sewing products at the factory have always surprised me with their solutions in the processing of parts that are simple to the point of genius.

I learned one of these secrets a very long time ago - when I was sewing men’s shirts in the workshop.

We had a norm of 25 units per shift. Of course, 25 fully tailored shirts! At the time, it seemed very unrealistic to me to sew 25 shirts.

But other masters taught me very quickly simple way high-speed processing of collars and cuffs of men's shirts.

And in the first week I finished 15 shirts per shift. Then everything was fine. A couple of months later I was safely fired.

A man is greeted by his clothes, a man by his shirt, and certainly a shirt by his collar.
Collar located so close to the face that it will tell you too much about its owner.
I hope that my view on the topic “ how to sew a shirt collar on a stand.” will be interesting.

I will try to consider not only the sewing algorithm, but also focus on tricks and tricks that will make the shirt collar more beautiful. Of course, not only knowledge plays a role, but also skill.
Every cook cooks borscht in his own way, and for everyone it turns out delicious and special. Either you can or you can’t.

Let's not let our men down, let's sew a real shirt self made. The full cycle of sewing a shirt is in the article

At the stage of sewing in the collar, the following must be done: shoulder seams. . bar.

Classic stand-up collar for men's shirts. How to sew beautifully: secrets and tricks.

Cut out the collarperfectly symmetrical.

From shirt fabric:

2 collar parts, allowances 0.8-1 cm
2 stand parts, allowances 0.8-1 cm

from good collar thermal dublerin:
1 stand piece, without allowances
1 collar piece, without allowances.

The collar padding is quite dense and will hold the shape of the collar perfectly. And the form is the main thing.

Focus on tricks.
1. Do not make the height of the shirt collar too high: 1-1.5 cm above the stand is quite enough. The length of the stand should be equal to the length of the neck - measure in the shirt along the imaginary line of sewing in the collar!

Duplicate collar details :

top collar and outer stand.
That is, we strengthen with an adhesive gasket those parts that are “on top”, in plain sight.

Why? Because:
a) collar thermal dublerin clearly models the shape, b) allowances are not printed on external parts.

Although in the recommendations of the “shirt makers” (and in GOSTs!) the internal stand is glued, but I do it my own way. If one of the masters leaves in the comments the answer to the question “why internal?”, I will be very grateful. Not because “it’s customary,” but precisely “why.” Your advice is in our piggy bank!

Don't have a good collar understudy? Take the non-woven fabric and duplicate both parts of the posts and collars. This is what I do in light women’s blouses.

You might find this article about duplication rules, based on personal experience and an interview with the manager of the Hensel company.

Align and pin the collar pieces with right sides facing inward.
Here's the trick:

2. chip slightly at the bend in the corners. The upper collar is thus 1-2 mm larger than the lower one, which will allow for a beautiful roll of the seam.

Sew a collar.

There is not one, but three tricks:

3. Set the stitch small, approximately 1.5 mm. Or stitch with a regular stitch, and when approaching the corner, reduce

4. Sew to the corner and then make one cross stitch. Only one. Unfold and continue stitching the collar.

Oddly enough, one short cross stitch will create a sharper angle. Why? Due to seam allowances. No matter how we cut them off before turning them inside out, the excess fabric will still create a thickening in the corner.

5. do not lay the line precisely along the border of the doubler, but at a distance of 1 -1.5 mm.
And you will have a beautiful seam roll to the side of the lower collar.

Cut seam allowances and trim seam allowances

– in the corner, up to 1 mm from the line. Trim the allowances step by step along the flap (long side) of the collar. This is standard operation.

Turn the collar inside out and sweep it out.

I do not use sharp objects, I do not pull out the corner with a thread and a needle. I’m scared: the shirt fabrics are too loose—I don’t risk tearing a lovingly made corner.

Check the symmetry of the ends of the collar.

I do not like? Fix it!

Collar stitching.

For this purpose, a foot with a stopper is indispensable, and the stitch width can be adjusted by the orientation of the needle. Nowadays there are modern generation machines that allow the needle position to be moved left and right.
Placket, cuffs and collar – pay attention to the stitching!

6. All stitching on the shirt should be done using a stitch of the same length and at the same distance from the edge.

Sew the collar stand in two stages.

1) prepare the outer one like this: fold the seam allowance and topstitch (the foot from the previous operation).

I mark the middle of the pieces with a hot iron and chip away from the middle.

Pin the outer stand to the bottom collar (face + face). Sew clearly along the border between the collar and the stand.

Why is this intermediate operation needed:
It is easy to control the stitching boundaries and compare symmetry easily. But we need to compare.

2) Pin the inner post and stitch beautiful knot“stand + collar” along the entire length.

7. Chip slightly “at the bend”: in finished form The collar stand will acquire a beautiful bend, following the shape of the neck.

On the wrong side of the inner part, mark with a marker (with chalk) the border of the stitching of the stand - clearly along the edge of the outer stand.

8. Check that the length of the stand clearly matches the length of the neck of the shirt.

If you cut out and sewed the collar correctly, the sizes will match. And if not...surprise! - We will redo the collar.

If the stand is wider than the neck, then definitely reduce it.
If the neck is wider than the stand, then 0.5 cm can still be added. But no more than half a centimeter. No more.

There is a second option for sewing the collar stand (no photo), in which the stand is first aligned with the neckline, and then the bend of the stand is stitched - exactly to the edge of the bar. I will try to do another master class on collar stand, a little later, with a philosophy on the topic “what is best.” The answer is not clear-cut.

Sew the stand to the shirt.

Here, be careful what you pin on what (smile).
I sometimes get confused because “you can’t just sew on a collar the first time” (c)
Correctly like this:
Inner stand (face) + shirt (wrong side).
Check again: The stand is placed right side on the back of the shirt. The seam allowance should end up on the right side of the shirt.

Attention to detail:

9. Make a point hand tack using thread to match the shirt, aligning the stand with the edge of the placket. The layers will not move when stitched.

10. Cut the neck allowances, not reaching the seam 2-3 mm. This is important so that the collar fits beautifully.

Sew the inner collar of the shirt.

11. Place the stitch 1 mm to the left of the border marked with a marker. The inner stand will be narrower and the stitching seam will “hide” under the outer stand.

Iron the seam.

Carefully tuck seam allowances inside.

Sew on the outer stand.

Baste or pin, do as you like. At this stage, if the previous ones were completed perfectly, there should be no surprises.
But although not, it’s better to sweep it. Your fingers can feel the boundaries of the seams well, and running stitches will securely secure the position of the outer post.

Sew along the front side of the stand. We start stitching from the middle of the neckline and, without interrupting the stitching, stitch along the entire perimeter of the stand.
The seam is beautiful on both sides of the collar and runs along the edge or at the same distance from the edge of the inner stand.

Useful trick:

12. Insert a needle with a long thread into the corner of the stand - this will help guide the sewing in “strategically important places” where the stitching can “slip” on the thickenings. Just gently pull the tail of the thread to advance the piece.

This year my son went to first grade for the first time. This big celebration in our family and a new stage in the life of our child. There was a lot of excitement, a lot of thinking on the topic: “Is the child ready and can he be responsible?”

But now the first week of school has already passed, and my son has matured during these days, which surprised not only my husband and I, but also our friends, who also noticed changes.

Before the first of September the child had to sew white shirt. I had a similar experience, but this time I decided make a shirt according to all the sewing rules. This was especially true for the collar, since I always lacked the strength and courage to read a chapter of a book on this topic before starting work.

This time I forced myself to do everything right, and it became a lesson for life. Now I am not afraid to sew this type of product, since the process already seems easy and understandable to me. I hope everything will be clear to you too.

To work you need:
- fabric for sewing a shirt
- interlining to strengthen the collar
- threads to match the color of the fabric
- scissors, pins
- sewing machine

“Shirt collar” is such a general concept that within the framework of one topic we can only talk about its types and history, but this information is much easier to find than a good MK for sewing it, so we’ll focus on the latter.

Creating a collar pattern can take from 1 minute to 30 minutes. Most easy way - is to find ready-made pattern shirts with the correct collar.

There is also another easy way to create a pattern- using the program for computer construction of various kinds of RedCafe patterns (I already told you about it in previous topics).

In the most difficult way(but quite interesting because of the opportunity to use imagination) can be called independent pattern construction. You can also use a graphic collar pattern.

When the pattern is ready, a lot of questions arise, how to assemble a collar correctly so that in the end it turns out beautiful and neat.

We glue the lower parts of the collar and collar (stand) with a thermal pad (non-woven fabric). We fold the parts in pairs and sew the paired collar parts along the top and side edges.

We cut the corners on both sides as shown in the figure.

We turn the collar inside out and sew the stand to it.

We turn the rack inside out, and we get a product that we so often see on shirts, jackets and dresses.

Now all that remains is to sew it into ready product and make decorative stitches if necessary.

By the way, if decorative stitches are made by hand and not on a machine, then the price of the product rises significantly, since it was sewn using manual labor. Such shirts are not only expensive, but also look very beautiful.

Happy sewing!

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Stand collars are one of the simplest collars.
However, despite their simplicity of construction, stand-up collars are very diverse. This diversity is expressed in the width (height) of the stand, in the configuration of the top line, in the design of the ends, as well as in the degree of fit to the neck.

This group of collars can be divided into two subgroups:
1 - cut-off stand-up collars;
2 - one-piece stand-up collars with shelves and backs.

In this article we will look at several designs of this type collars related to cut-off stands, which differ in varying degrees of fit to the neck.

In the first In this option, we will build a stand-up collar that is not adjacent to the neck.

The drawing of such a collar is made in the form of a rectangular strip.

We begin the construction by bringing the neckline into accordance with the chosen style. This means that after we have decided on the model of a dress, blouse, raincoat, etc., it is necessary to deepen, widen or change the shape of the neckline, if this is provided for by the style of the selected model.
We draw a new neckline and measure its length using the front and back patterns. This can be conveniently done using a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on the edge.

Perfect option, this is when you clarify the neck line during fitting, correct it if necessary, and then measure.
In our example, we widen and deepen the neck by about 0.75-1cm.

And let's start building the collar.

Draw a right angle. We denote the top by point O. From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured from the patterns of the front and back. In our example, this value is 20 cm, and you set aside your value and place point A.
The desired stand height is set vertically from points O and A (for dresses and blouses on average 3 - 5 cm; for raincoats and jackets it can reach 10 -12 cm or more). We will take 4cm as an example and place points O1 and A1 respectively.

Connect points O1 and A1 with a horizontal line. That, in fact, is the whole construction.

There are some nuances left.

If, according to the model, the ends of the stand are shaped at right angles, then the upper collar and collar can be cut out in one piece in the form of a single strip. In this case, the top edge of the post will have a fold rather than a seam.

If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A and A1 to the right we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A2 and A3 and connect them with straight lines. The final contour of the stand-up collar will be indicated by the letters O, A2, A3, O1.

When making patterns for the upper collar, do not forget to add 0.2-0.3 cm in the transverse seams and along the top seam to create a piping, but if the collar is one-piece with a collar - only in the transverse seams. See fig.

In the second option, consider a stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.

We begin construction in the same sequence as in the first option. During the fitting, we clarify the shape of the neckline, adjust if necessary and measure the length of the neckline.

From point O upward we set aside the height of the stand (for dresses and blouses it is taken on average 3 - 5 cm). We will take 4cm as an example and place point O1.

From point O to the right we set aside 1/3 of the distance OA and place point C.
From point A, draw a vertical line up and put 1.5-4 cm on it, put point A1.
The greater the distance AA1 (the greater the bend of the stand), the more the upper edge of the stand will be adjacent to the neck.
From point A1 up, set aside a distance equal to segment OO1 or another provided by your model, and place point A2.

We connect points C and A1 with a smooth curve. The final stitching line of the stand passes through points O, C, A1.
We shape the upper edge of the stand by connecting points O1 and A2 with a smooth curve parallel to the stitching line OCA1.

From point A1 at right angles to line CA1, draw a straight line until it intersects with line O1A2 and place point A3.
The ends (corners) of the stand are designed in accordance with the style of the product. In our example they are rounded.

If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A3 and A1 to the right, parallel to the center line of the rack, we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A4 and A5 and connect them with straight lines. The final outline of the stand-up collar is formed with the letters O, C, A4, A5, O1.

I remind you. The upper collar pattern along the outer contour should be 1-3mm larger than the collar pattern. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that the stitching seam does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. to form a edging along the top and transverse seams of the rack.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar from the main drawing clearly along the line, this will be the collar.

And then, on a separate sheet of paper, enlarge this pattern by adding the required amount along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.

The variety of collars of this type is achieved both due to the design and application various types finishing. We are preparing a separate section about this, as well as about processing technology.

Follow the site news and you will always be up to date.

Good luck! Valentina Nivina.

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