Step-by-step instructions on how to knit fishing nets with your own hands and using a machine. Do-it-yourself shuttle for knitting nets How to make a shuttle for weaving nets

From the very beginnings of his existence, man has been obtaining food for himself. As a result, he learned and invented many ways to obtain food, including fishing. Over time, this activity has turned from a necessity into a hobby.

Fish are caught using a fishing rod and various contraptions. A very effective tackle is a net. Here we will look at how fishing nets are knitted manually and using a machine.

• Tools and accessories
• Knitting a knot
• Climb
• Weaving
• Preparatory actions
• Knitting nets
• Useful video

It should be noted that this gear did not come to its current form immediately. For a long time, water miners have been improving their fishing devices and have come to a common decision that the net should be made by weaving. The knitting technology for this gear has been clearly proven.

There are two ways to weave fishing nets:

• Manually.
• Mechanically where a knitting machine is used.

Weaving fishing nets with your own hands

Initially, the net was woven by hand. It took a lot of time and required perseverance and concentration. However, with some information and patience, it is quite possible to weave a network yourself at home. An avid fisherman will only enjoy making his own tackle.

First, you need to acquire a tool and decide what material the network will be made of. To do this, you can use either nylon thread or fishing line.

The choice of a suitable thread depends on the purpose of the net (what kind of fish it will mainly catch), its parameters (length, height and mesh size) and personal preferences.

You need to understand that a mesh made of nylon thread (“rag”) is stronger than a mesh made from fishing line, and therefore more durable. But such gear gets very tangled, and the process of extracting fish from it causes a lot of trouble. A network of scaffolding is easier to deploy, but breaks faster. A fast, strong fish can make a hole out of it and slip out to freedom.

The “rag” is used when catching species such as silver carp, bream, and large crucian carp is expected. These representatives of the ichthyofauna can easily damage a fishing line net, but if they get caught in a nylon fishing line, they will become thoroughly entangled in it and will not escape.

It is important to choose the correct thread section. Naturally, the thicker it is, the stronger the network. However, here you need to follow the rule of the golden mean. Tackle that is too thick is very noticeable (especially knots) and scares away fish, while gear that is too thin is easily damaged and does not hold the catch.

Tools and accessories

You will need a knitting shuttle and a template. You can make them yourself. The shuttle is made from a thin piece of aluminum or getinax. The thickness varies between 3-5 mm. One edge of the shuttle is pointed and has a slot in the form of a rod on which the thread will be wound. The other end looks like a bicorne that secures the thread.

The thread is wound as follows: A loop is knitted and put on the rod at the top of the shuttle. Then the thread is pressed under tension to the lower edge, where the double horn prevents it from breaking, and the consumable material is wound, alternately turning the shuttle relative to the plane.

The amount of thread will depend on the length of the shuttle, the height of the rod and the depth of the double horn. As a rule, the dimensions of the shuttle are slightly larger than the size of the knitter's wrist.

The template is often made of plastic. It determines the size of the network cell and plays an important final role, so it must be done accurately and accurately. It is important that its edges are parallel and smooth.

A tourniquet will be useful to secure the beginning of the network, as well as a fixed support. As a rule, this is a gas pipe or battery. A thread is attached to it, from which the height of the net is gained, and then the finished tackle is knitted.

Knitting a knot

The strongest and most immovable knot is performed as follows. A template is brought to the finished loop (the first one knitted by hand), and the shuttle is threaded into it.

The thread passed through the loop is attracted to the edge of the template (it should pass from above) and fixed thumb. Now the shuttle can be moved freely.

There is a loop under your thumb that needs to be held until the knot is completed. Next, the shuttle is passed into the finished loop so that the thread wraps around the previous loop on both sides. Then the shuttle is passed a second time between the right edge of the loop and the already threaded thread.

After threading twice from top to bottom, the shuttle is passed into the loop, which is held by the thumb. The knot is tightened synchronously, i.e. the thread is pulled with a shuttle, and the pressure on the loop is simultaneously reduced with your thumb. A slight characteristic click will signal that the unit is ready.

There are many ways to increase your fish catch, but the most effective ones are. Below the site editors share with you the 3 most in effective ways increase in catch:

These are the first steps that the knitter will use to set the specific height of the net. Using the knot shown above, a mesh is woven from a thread, consisting of cells adjacent to the same side. Their number will determine the height (or width) of the entire tackle.

After the first row is ready, take a tourniquet or thick rope and thread it through the individual cells (along one edge of the loops). Then the harness is tied to a pipe or battery and weaving begins in length.

Weaving

The difference between this and the previous stage is that the template is applied to adjacent cells, and the finished ones are simply removed from it as they accumulate. It is necessary to ensure that the template is positioned perpendicular to the network, this affects its correct shape.

Next, the length of the tackle is woven in the same order. After the next row of cells is connected, a new one starts from the left edge. It is recommended to immerse the finished net in hot water (approximately 900C) so that the knots are completely tightened.

The upper edge of the woven tackle is equipped with floats, and sinkers are attached to the lower edge.

Fishing net knitting machine

It takes a long time to weave a net manually, even with a lot of experience and skill. There is also a knitting method using special homemade equipment.

The machine for making fishing nets is made of five parts:

1. Housing – made of aluminum tube;
2. Shuttle - has a cut at an angle of 450 and a hole on the side for moving the thread (on the back wall there is a cone-shaped recess of 2.5 mm in which the bobbin is attached);
3. A bobbin is a bronze product turned on a lathe, which moves freely in a shuttle;
4. Aluminum plug - designed to fix the end of the bobbin (it is inserted tightly into the shuttle and should not fall out during knitting);
5. Shuttle movement limiter.

Preparatory actions

The thread is wound onto the bobbin and inserted into the shuttle. Then it is closed with a stopper. Assemble the shuttle and install it, with the plug facing forward, into the machine body until it stops. The gap between the stopper and the hook is approximately 3 mm. The thread will pass through it while knitting.

Knitting nets

The mesh size of the future network is determined by the shuttle on which the thread is wound. The cell includes the lower area of ​​the machine. The thread enters under the shuttle and comes out from above.

Pressing the thread with your finger, pull it to the template and throw it in a half ring to the left. Then grab a couple of cells so that the thread passes from the bottom of the machine, and tighten the knot.

Each master can use his own technique or try different options. The most important thing here is that knots are knitted on a machine much faster than by hand. Happy fishing!

Useful video

Video showing a simple and quick way to knit a fishing net:

Video about the best knots for weaving fishing nets:

Pike-fish.ru

Fishing net making machine

Today, a machine for the production of fishing nets has enormous potential in the development of the fishing industry.

Equipment for the production of networks is not uncommon today and, as a rule, it is produced by a huge number of organizations.

Spare parts for the repair of such machines can be found without much effort.

Price comparison

It is worth immediately paying attention to the price of these machines, which on the one hand are primitive from a technical point of view, only because they were bought from China for spare parts and assembled. However, they are sold in Europe for huge sums of money only for European assembly with the “made in (European country)” tag.

It is better to immediately buy Chinese equipment. It will have no competitors in terms of price, and practically the same in terms of quality. As an example, consider a machine that produces fishing nets LZURHD9-610, which can be bought in China for four hundred thousand yuan or two million rubles.

Machine Parameters and Applications

The power of this machine is two kilowatts. The device has dimensions: 2.5 x 7.5 2.5 meters. The weight of the machine is seven tons. Therefore, to accommodate the device, a room of about thirty is required. square meters and four-meter ceilings.

The productivity of the machine depends on the size of the cell, that is, the larger the cell, the fewer knots are knitted, and the less time is spent on this process.

It is also necessary to carefully note the fact that the machine is certified in Russian Federation, that is, having in hand a certificate of compliance with industrial requirements, a machine for the production of fishing nets gives a huge advantage.

Material for the production of nets.

The product for production is nylon monofilament having a thickness of 0.18 to 0.30 millimeters, as well as polyethylene thread of the same thickness. Traditionally, nylon nets (nylon) still have great strength and durability.

In addition to these positive properties, they can be easily repaired. However, line (monofilament) nets are very expensive and difficult to repair.

Generally, one type of fishing net production is usually enough to get started. Although during the increase in production volume there will be a shortage. You can solve this problem in some ways.

The solution to this is usually considered to be the opening of the production of additional raw materials for the manufacture of nets, be it nylon or polyethylene, naturally with subsequent expansion. Naturally, there will be an expansion of fishing equipment: fishing rods, spinning rods, and so on.



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Knitting nets. A practical guide for anglers

KNITTING NETS

In the practice of sport and recreational fishing, net products are widely used: for nets, cages, lifts, etc. In addition, recently in some regions the use of net fishing gear has been permitted under licenses.

If you can't buy a net or a product made from it in a store, don't be upset. If desired, they are easy to make at home.

The mesh fabric consists of intersecting threads fastened with knots. Nets are knitted from linen, cotton, nylon, silk and other threads that have the same thickness along the entire length and tensile strength corresponding to the future product. The thread must be smooth, elastic, resistant to environmental influences.

In the extended position, the cells of the network (Fig. 1) are equilateral quadrangles, the sides of which (threads) are connected by knots. The cell size is determined by the distance between nodes.

Rice. 1. Mesh fabric:

1 - thread; 2 - node; I - cell; P - cell size; P - row of cells; P/2 - row of half-cells; W - network width; V is the number of cells in a row of network width; D - network length; n is the number of rows of the network length.

The mesh fabric begins to be knitted from the first row of cells. The number of them in a row depends on the width of the network and the size of the cell. The required number of half-cells is tied to the first row of cells to obtain a fabric of the required length.

The net is knitted using a shuttle and a template.

The shuttle is designed for placing thread, performing operations such as tying knots, sewing together net products and repairing them.

In Fig. 2 shows shuttles of various designs. The width of the shuttle should be twice smaller size cells, length - 10-15 times greater than width, thickness - minimal, but corresponding to the strength of the material, so that the shuttle does not bend from the tension of the turns of thread wound on it.

Rice. 2. Tools for knitting net:

1-shuttle made of riveted wire for knitting small meshes; 2-shuttle made of soldered wire; 3 - shuttle made of plate (metal, wood); 4-thread wound on a shuttle; 5 - template (wood, plastic); d - length; w - width

The template is designed to give the network cells the required uniform size. Templates are made in the form of plates, usually of an oval cross-section, 10-12 centimeters long. The width of the template (with a thickness of 2-3 millimeters) should be such that the length of one turn of thread around it is equal to twice the size of the cell.

Knitting a mesh fabric is a repeatedly repeated operation of tying and tightening knots, with the help of which the lower row of half-cells is tied to the top row of cells.

To learn how to quickly and efficiently knit a net, you need, first of all, to master the techniques of knitting knots. In Fig. Figure 3 shows the simple, most common knots with one overlap (overlap - passing the shuttle through the upper cell while tying the lower one to it).

Rice. 3. Simple mesh knots:

a - knot through the little finger; b - knot with overlap at the top: c - knot with overlap at the bottom

Knot through the little finger. The sequence of operations when tying this knot is shown in Fig. 4. Holding the template between the thumb and ring fingers of the left hand, the middle one is inserted into the upper cell and the net is pulled. The thread coming from the knot of the upper cell is drawn around the template and ring finger, then hooked onto the index, middle and little fingers. The little finger is pressed to the palm and, without loosening the tension of the thread, right hand shuttle from below into the first loop (around the ring finger and template) and overlap from below into the cell under the middle finger (Fig. 4, a). In the figure, the shuttle is shown conventionally in the form of an arrow.

Having placed the thread on top of the template, they begin to pull it to the top cell (Fig. 4, b). In this case, all fingers, except the little finger, are freed from the loops.

When the weave of threads is on the upper edge of the template, the weave is clamped with the thumb and forefinger. Then the little finger is released from the loop and the knot is finally tightened between the fingers on the upper edge of the template (Fig. 4, c).

This method of knitting knots is considered the best, firstly, because the resulting knot does not move along the thread of the upper cell, as a result of which all four sides of the cell are the same; secondly, despite the apparent complexity, knitting is done at the highest speed, since you only have to intercept the shuttle once, passing it through the upper mesh. However, this method does not allow knitting nets with a mesh size of less than 1 centimeter. With a certain skill, a knot through the little finger can be knitted blindly, which is very important for people with poor vision.

Knot with overlap at the top (Fig. 5). First operation: the thread coming from the previous knot is wrapped around the template, the shuttle is passed into the upper cell from above (overlapping from above) and the cell is pulled to the upper edge of the template. In this case, the threads of the upper cell should turn and form a small loop at the bottom, after which the loop, together with the upper edge of the template, is tightly clamped between the thumb and middle fingers. Second operation: the thread is passed around the large and index finger, the shuttle is passed under the lower threads of the upper cell, over the thread above the thumb and forefinger, and the knot is finally tightened between the thumb and middle finger.

It is important that the thread covers the loop of the upper cell when tightening the knot; To do this, it is useful to slightly move your thumb upward without releasing pressure. The thread tightening the knot should be directed down and slightly to the right.

Knot with overlap at the bottom. First operation: the thread is passed around the template, the shuttle is passed into the upper cell from below (overlapping from below) and pulled to the edge of the template; The place where the threads are intertwined is pinched between the fingers. The second operation is the same as when tying a knot with an overlap at the top. Simple knots, if tied correctly and tightly, are immovable. To exclude the possibility of their movement along the thread of the upper cell, double-overlapping knots are sometimes used.

Double overlap cell knots are different from simple themes that the second overlap is carried out either after tightening simple node, or in the process of tying it. The node shown in Fig. 6, a, is formed after tying and tightening a knot with an overlap from above, followed by an overlap from below and a second tightening. Node in Fig. 6, b is obtained in the process of tying a knot with an overlap at the top. After the first overlap and passing the shuttle under the threads of the upper cell, make a second overlap from below behind the right thread of the cell and tighten the knot. This knot is more compact and is good for knitting networks of single-strand threads.

Before you start knitting a network, you need to make some calculations, prepare a sufficient number of threads, select or make a shuttle and a template. The number of cells is calculated as follows. Let's say you need to knit a mesh fabric for a lift, the length and width of which is 1 meter, the mesh size is 2 centimeters.

When the network is stretched, its cells will look like squares (see Fig. 1). The number of cells in a row is determined by the ratio:

N=Ш/с, where N is the number of cells in row P1; W - network width (length of one row of cells); c is the length of the diagonal of the square.

Since c=a#2, where a is the cell size, then W/a#2.

Substituting the original data into the formula, we get:

N=100/2*1.41~36.

Thus, each row of the network, which determines its width, must contain 36 cells. Since the width and length of the network are the same (100 cm), another 35 rows of cells, or 70 rows of half-cells, must be tied to the first row of cells.

To tie one row of half-cells, you will need about 150 centimeters of thread (2*a*N=2*2*36=144 cm), and for 72 rows - approximately 110 meters (including a small margin for knots, breaks, etc. .).

For a cell measuring 2 centimeters, you need a shuttle 1 centimeter wide. The width and thickness of the template are selected so that one turn of the thread around the template is 4 centimeters.

Starting to knit a network can be done in two ways. The first method is to knit two rows of meshes at the same time (Fig. 7). By wrapping the thread once around the template and tying its ends, you get an auxiliary “o” loop. From the thread coming from the shuttle, make two turns around the template and tie a knot on its edge (Fig. 7, a). Both loops are removed from the template, the straightened second loop will be the first mesh cell. This cell is inserted into the auxiliary one and both are hung on a nail (Fig. 7, b) or on any other stationary object located at arm's length of the knitter.

If you decide to tie the network in knots, for example with an overlap from below, proceed as follows. Draw the thread around the template, overlap it into loop 1 from below, pull it to the edge of the template, tie and tighten the knot, forming cell 2.

The next knot is tied in the same way, forming cell 3 (Fig. 7, c).

The following cells are knitted in the same sequence.

The resulting garland should consist of even and odd loops, the number of which should be equal to the estimated number of cells in a row of the network (Fig. 7, d). Then a cord is pulled into the even cells and its ends are tied (Fig. 7, e). hang the loop on a nail and begin to form subsequent rows.

The second way to start knitting a network is shown in Fig. 8. At the end of the thread, tie a small loop so that the shuttle fits into it. A cord is inserted into this loop, its ends are tied, and the loop from the lace is hung on a nail (Fig. 8, a).

Throwing the thread coming from loop knot 1 onto the template and passing the shuttle into the lace loop, pull the template to the knot with the first loop, tie and tighten the slip knot (Fig. 8, b), thereby forming loop 2. The slip knot is tied into such sequences: after pulling the template, the last two threads going up are pinched on its edge with the thumb and middle finger; thread from under thumb throw on the index finger, the shuttle is passed under two threads of the resulting loop and over the thread thrown on the index finger; the knot is tightened on the upper edge of the template between the thumb and middle finger, next to the first knot. In the same sequence, all the nodes of the first row are knitted along the width of the future network (Fig. 8, c). To make the loops the same, you should not keep more than five or six half-cells on the template. They must be reset from the left end of the template as new ones accumulate.

Having tied the required number of loops and half-holes, the cord loop is removed from the nail and turned 180°. The template is removed from the half-cells and from the left edge they begin to knit the next row of the half-cell network (Fig. 8, d). The procedure is repeated until a network of the required length is obtained.

Tying the thread. If the supply of thread on the shuttle runs out or it breaks, the threads are tied. To do this, the ends of the broken thread and the thread from the charged shuttle are folded together, slightly twisted and tied with a regular knot next to the previous one, tightened at the edge of the template. The ends of the threads are cut at a distance of 3 - 5 millimeters. It is useful to melt the ends of the nylon threads over the flame of a match.

When knitting long mesh fabric, the distance from the knitter’s hands to the nail should not be more than one meter. To do this, as the net is being made, the loop from the cord should be removed from the first row and the cord should be passed into the cells located near the knitter’s hands. To prevent the free edges of the finished fabric from twisting and interfering with work while knitting the net, you can hang a hook with a small weight from its cells.

If you need to knit a mesh fabric that is not rectangular, but of some other shape, add and subtract cells.

To increase the number of cells in the next row compared to the previous one, you need to tie an additional loop to the previous row in the manner shown in Fig. 9, a, b. To reduce the number of cells in a row, you need to link one of the cells of the next row to two cells of the previous one (Fig. 9, c).

Tying mesh panels allows you to produce products of various shapes (cylindrical, cone-shaped, bag-shaped, etc.). Panels of the required shape and size, having edge cells with three nodes, are connected to each other using a shuttle using one of the methods shown in Fig. 10.

Source

handf.mirtesen.ru

How to tie a fishing net

A fishing net allows you to catch fish without being constantly nearby. This convenient way for those who are on a camping trip and fish just to get food.

On the other hand, connecting the network yourself is, although painstaking, but quite simple work. Why do it yourself? After all, it’s quite possible to buy a network canvas? In fact, this tackle can be made in different ways.

• It can be made from fishing line, or from nylon cord. In the first case, it will be much less durable, but removing the caught fish from it will be relatively simple. If you use a net knitted from nylon threads, its strength will be much higher. On the other hand, when you take fish out of it, you run the risk of greatly confusing it.
• In addition, options are available with different cell sizes and with different numbers. You cannot be sure in advance that this particular type of fishing tackle will suit you.
• It should also be noted that it will need to be equipped for fishing. For example, attach weights. It is not always convenient to do this with purchased gear.

Therefore, if you connect it in the most convenient way for yourself, taking into account your plans, then in most cases it will be more effective than looking for the same option on sale.

Methods of weaving nets

It is quite possible to do it manually. Of course, this will require some labor, but the manufacturing process itself is not particularly difficult. The most well-known methods of carrying out such work are hand knitting or work using a special machine for this. Let's look at this in more detail.

Manual method

In order to make a fishing net in this way, you will need very few tools. To do this, you will need a shuttle, which is easy to make yourself, a plate resembling a ruler (this tool is called a template) and a strong wire loop to which the cord is attached at the very beginning.

In the future, the entire network is gradually connected node by node. First, half loops of the first row are made, then, row by row, and the rest of the part.

Knitting machine

In order to slightly reduce knitting time, there are special machines. There are several varieties. We are not considering here industrial machines that are used for the production of fishing nets. The most common variety is next type machine

Let's talk a little about how this device works. The entire body is made of aluminum tube. The shuttle is also made of this material.

In its front part there is a special slot through which the thread will pass. The shuttle has an oblique cut located at an angle of 45 degrees.

• There is a recess at the back of the hook to secure the bobbin. It has the shape of a cone and its depth is two and a half millimeters. This hole is designed to secure the bobbin.
• This part must be made of bronze, processed on a lathe according to the drawing provided. This part must move freely inside the shuttle.
• Aluminum is used to make the shuttle plug. In the center of the shuttle there is a narrow hole of 2-3 millimeters so that the second end of the bobbin can be fixed. The plug should be inserted tightly and not move during operation.
• It will also be necessary to provide a shuttle travel limiter. It will need to be made from an aluminum plate.

Network shape and size

Although at first glance it seems that most of them are made in a rectangular shape, in fact their application can be very different:

• The trawl is more like a bag. The leading edge is shaped like a circle. When fishing with a trawl, they seem to grab the fish and pull them to the surface.
• Purse seines are used in a similar way, but their operating principle is slightly different. In this case, the net is pulled precisely by the bottom and side walls. The net is installed vertically, the lower part is weighted with weights.
• Gill net. The principle of its operation is that the fish gets caught in it by being caught by the gills. It is also installed vertically for fishing.

There are also many other options. They vary in size and shape, the size of the cells, and the material from which they are made.

Weaving fishing nets with your own hands

Suppose you decide to knit such a tackle with your own hands. What do you need for this? You need very little.

What tools will you need?

• Of course, a shuttle is needed. It looks like this.

It has exactly this shape so that a cord or fishing line can be wound around it in a certain way. First, a small loop is made on the cord and hooked onto the tongue.

Then it is pulled down, passes through the notch and approaches the tongue from the back. Then it covers him and goes down. After this, the lower recess passes through and is again brought to the tongue from the front side, goes around it and goes down. This pattern is repeated until the entire cord is wound.

• In addition, you need a template. By appearance it resembles an ordinary school ruler. Its width is half the size of the cell in the network we are creating. You can make it from plastic, wood or other similar material.
• You need a wire hook to which the cord will initially be attached at the beginning of the netting process. It is attached to a wall or something similar where we will be working.

Note that if we make these tools ourselves, we will need to thoroughly clean them with sandpaper. There should not be any burrs there so as not to damage the cord we are using.

How to tie a knot

Despite the fact that at first glance the knot seems complicated, it is actually quite simple to knit. The movements required for this are very simple. Let's talk about this in more detail.

Here we will tell you how the loops are knitted. They are all made in the same way as described in this figure.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• First, the cord is wrapped first from above, then from below the template.
• Then the shuttle is carried through the previous loop and brought to the template again. You need to press it with your thumb.
• The shuttle is then threaded between the two starting cords.
• Then carefully tighten.

This knot will not tighten under tension. Each subsequent node is made in the same way.

Network altitude climb

This stage is the creation of the basis for weaving the entire network. We are talking about knitting a chain of cells connected by common sides. The number of cells is taken such that they make up the entire height of the network.

Subsequently, cells are connected to them row by row, ultimately forming the entire network. After the first row is knitted, a strong cord is threaded through it and its ends are secured. On this basis, the fabric is knitted further.

Fishing net weaving process

The figure demonstrates how to correctly wind the cord onto the shuttle. This must be done before starting work.

These figures do not need detailed explanations, but I would like to note that key point is the double carrying of the shuttle inside the created loop. It is this that allows you to create a cell whose position will not change under voltage.

The last two pictures show the process of creating stitches after creating the first row. The knitting of the knot itself occurs exactly the same as before.

It remains to be noted that the network does not have to be knitted all at once. There is also an option when several pieces of canvas are taken, and then their cells are connected to each other.

Fishing net knitting machine

Using a machine can speed up such work. So, although it will take some effort to create, if you plan to do a lot of net weaving, using one can improve your efficiency.

Preparation

• In order to start working, the bobbin must be carefully inserted into the shuttle. After this, it will need to be closed with a stopper.
• After this is done, the shuttle must be inserted into the body (with the plug facing forward, push it all the way).
• After this, the sharp part of the shuttle will be located at the bottom of the machine. In this case, the limiter should not reach it by 2 - 3 millimeters. Such a hole is necessary for the movement of the cord during the process of making the net.
• The thread must pass through the slot of the shuttle and it must be tied to the net.

The process of knitting a net on a machine

• For loom knitting we also need a template. First, the thread is passed over it, then it is brought around from below and threaded into the previous loop.
• The cell thread should now pass under the shuttle and come out from above it.
• Pull the shuttle to the template and press the thread with your thumb.
• We draw the thread from the shuttle to the left in relation to ourselves and thread it, while grabbing one or two threads. In this case, the loop once again passes from the bottom of the shuttle to the top.
• In this case, the cord that went on the left needs to be pulled slightly towards you, while passing through the bottom of the machine. Now we tighten the knot and move on to the next cell of the network.

Tie the tackle yourself or buy it?

Of course, the modern market offers a lot various options network fabric. At the same time, their industrial production is of very high quality.

If compared with homemade options, the former will be significantly superior in quality. There are only two main drawbacks: the fairly high price and the need to look for exactly the option you need.

If you make the tackle yourself, then you can make exactly what suits you the best way. In addition, when purchased, it often has to be modified in order to be used for fishing. So the decision in each case must be made taking into account the specific circumstances.

Knitting a net is a fairly long process. But, at the same time, you can make exactly the tackle you wanted. Sometimes a fisherman is interested not only in the catch itself, but also in the preparation for it. Having spent his labor, creating his own gear, and having received a good catch, the fisherman is unlikely to regret it.

In some regions, the use of fishing nets is prohibited by environmental authorities. And although it cannot be called professional fishing tackle, when fishing in the sea or in permitted bodies of water, it is a fairly effective tool. Finding a product on the market is problematic, so you can learn how to weave a net yourself using improvised materials.

Tackle characteristics

Currently, fishing websites offer a lot of instructions on how to weave nets by hand for beginners. This skill can be useful not only for fishing enthusiasts, but also for more experienced fans who want to expand their professional experience.

It's no secret that every fishing net is different in different ways weaving and different cell sizes. The last parameter is determined by the following factors:

1. Estimated production size.
2. Method of fishing.

If anyone has had to weave a tackle from nylon or ordinary fishing line, then he knows how complex and painstaking the upcoming process can become. In any case, if you take it seriously, the end result can exceed your initial expectations.

Networks available on the market have different shapes. Single-wall and two- or three-wall models are in greatest demand. The first option is considered the simplest and most common. At the same time, it is used for both amateur and commercial purposes.

As for modernized products with two or three walls, they are called “entanglements” (the principle of operation is to entangle fish). The prey becomes entangled in the net and can no longer escape to freedom.

When choosing the length of the net, several subtleties are taken into account, including the environment in which the fish will be searched. A universal option is a 20-meter tackle, with a height of 1.5 to 1.8 meters.

Another important characteristic of the gear is the size of the cells. It is selected in accordance with the amount of expected production according to the following parameters:

1. Nets with a mesh diameter of 20 mm are ideal for catching live bait and small aquatic life.
2. The diameter of 27-32 mm is intended for catching roach and perch.
3. Diameter 40−50 mm is an ideal solution for fishing for bream and crucian carp.
4. Nets with mesh sizes from 120 to 140 mm are a powerful tool for catching pike.

Chinese analogues

Recently, a wide variety of cheap Chinese nets have been offered for sale, which have managed to gain particular popularity among a wide range of fishermen. The country of manufacture of these gears is exclusively China. By comparison, patterns that are supposedly considered Finnish are not always knitted in Finland.

Due to the low cost, it is not at all a pity to dispose of such gear or leave it in the water in case of a snag. The presence of different configurations of length and mesh sizes allows the net to be used to cover large lakes and rivers where a variety of fish are found. However, the quality of such products always remains questionable.

A serious problem is the production of insufficiently loaded structures that are not able to occupy the desired horizon in the water column and float to the surface. The knots used are not reliable enough, which leads to them untying in the event of a hook or attack by a large fish.

Subtleties of weaving

Considering the inaccessibility and high cost of gear, you can learn how to knit a fishing net yourself. Step by step instructions and diagrams from the Internet can be good helpers in this matter. As a basis for future tackle, nylon or nylon thread, as well as ordinary fishing line, are used. It is advisable to give preference to synthetic raw materials, as they have increased strength and are not susceptible to the aggressive effects of water.

To give the future structure the desired shape, you should use special accessory - landing cord. It is often replaced with ordinary wire. When searching for optimal items for loading a net, it is advisable to use rounded options that do not have sharp corners that can break the net. The same applies to floats - they should not deform or damage the tackle with their shape.

Pieces of baked clay, polystyrene foam or small pieces of plywood are used as a float. Before fixing them to the net, you need to thoroughly sand the edges with sandpaper. In most cases, sinkers and floats are used for tangling nets created using fishing line.

Required Tools

When creating your first tackle, you must first find a special tool - a shuttle for knitting nets with your own hands. You can buy it at the market, in a fishing store, or try to make it yourself. A fishing line or thread is placed on the shuttle, and then you will need to work with it like a regular needle.

The shuttle itself is a special tool made of solid raw materials. Its length is from 10 to 15 centimeters, and its width is half the size of the mesh cells. One end of this “needle” has a pointed base and a small slot where you need to wind the fishing line. Then it is fixed at the other end in a bicornuate position.

For weaving nets at home, another tool is used - a die. This is a special plate made of metal or wood, which has the same length as the shuttle. The product serves as a kind of template on the basis of which cells are created.

When using a shuttle, you must follow these instructions:

1. The first step is to put the loop on the first pointed end of the shuttle.
2. Then it is pulled up a little, pressing it to the second end.
3. Then you need to make a ring through which the thread will be pulled. In this case, you should form a loop with a diameter of 5 centimeters - thus, a knot will appear at the bottom, where the bar will be applied in the future.
4. At the next stage, the shuttle must be placed under the template, and the thread must be brought out through the ring created earlier. Then it is carefully pulled and fixed with a finger, while tying the loop with a simple knot. There are two types of knots - single and double overlapping.

As for the dimensions, namely the height and width of the created network, they are determined by the number of woven cells. After making the first row, you need to thread a cord or harness through the cells, which, in turn, is fixed to a pipe or any other object. Having completed this fixation, you can begin weaving in length.

In fact, it follows the same method as weaving in width, and the only difference is in the method of applying the template - it is applied not to the lower, but to the adjacent cells.

To tie a network of fishing line and rope, it is enough to prepare a high-quality shuttle and a bar, the width of which corresponds to the size of one cell. If we are talking about rope gear, then the thread must be placed on the tongue of the shuttle and gradually wound around it, catching it on the tongue and lowering it to the shuttle’s double horn. Then the tool rotates, lifting the material upward. The main thing is that the winding of ropes is complete. The remnants of the thread are cut off and the ends are set on fire.

The next step is to creating a loop with a diameter of one meter. This loop is attached to any durable object, and then the end of the thread from the loom is attached to it. Next you need to place a bar under the thread and insert the shuttle into the loop.

After carefully tightening the thread, it is necessary to repeat Roundabout Circulation around the hand. As a result, another knot will appear that needs to be pulled towards you and tied firmly. At the next stage, the working thread is held with a finger and thrown over the hand, while the shuttle must be placed under one outer thread and the loop tightened again to create a double knot. After the first row has been formed, the bar can be removed from the loops.

Option for weaving from fishing line

To weave a net from fishing line, you need to study the step-by-step guide, and, if possible, consult with an experienced colleague. The main material for the work ahead is fishing line, sold in reels. The smaller its diameter, the better the tackle will work, although strength suffers from this. To make the design of the net invisible even in clear water, it is advisable to give preference to models of lines with a dark gray or blue color.

During the weaving process, you need to use a double rod knot. By the way, the described method creates not only fishing gear, but also nets for economic and domestic purposes. The size of the cells of the fishing device is determined by the fishing method and the size of the prey.

The procedure for weaving a mesh from fishing line is divided into several stages, carried out in parts, the so-called divisions. These parts are assembled into a large structure, which, in turn, is fixed on a thick rope or cord. To attach the sections, markings are made on the cord.

With a cell size of 30 millimeters, the total length of the cell will be 16 centimeters. As a result, the tackle will include three separate parts, and every third cell will be fixed on a cord with a distance of 16 centimeters.

Breden is a special structure that resembles a hammock. A seine is created using a similar method, but it has an increased length.

The basting can have a circular weave and repeat the net. As for the drag, it is woven in cells from the largest to the smallest.

Without a doubt, on the modern market you can find many ready-made models of network fabric with different sizes cells and strength. Many industrial options are made using high-quality materials using advanced machines, so there are no complaints about their reliability. It is problematic to create such a high-quality product at home, but the first option may also have a significant drawback - a high price. In addition, finding a suitable solution that will meet the requirements of the fisherman is not entirely simple.

If we are talking about hand knitting, then the possibilities for choosing suitable configurations are much wider. Anyone can create exactly the kind of tackle they need, without the need for lengthy modifications (which is not uncommon for store-bought products). Therefore, the desire to tie a fishing net with your own hands is justified by the end result and has the right to life.

In any case, you need to remember that weaving a network is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming process, but the effort spent will bring excellent results. It's no secret that many fishermen enjoy not only the fishing process itself, but also the preparation of gear. Therefore, if you spend your time and energy on creating a homemade network, you will not have to regret it. Perhaps homemade tackle will become the best fishing tool that can provide a good catch at any time of the year.

Attention, TODAY only!

Making a tatting shuttle at home

Unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to buy a shuttle in a store. This article will teach you how to make a tatting shuttle at home.
Usually weaving tatting lace is done using a shuttle. It must be said that there are also shuttleless methods of weaving tatting - this is needle tatting on a long and thick needle and even crocheted tatting. Is it true last method refers to knitting. Shuttle lace is most famous in Russia, but needle lace is not as widespread, but it is loved in other countries of the world.

A shuttle is a device with which you can easily move a small ball of thread from place to place when weaving lace. In this case, the shuttle has a special shape that protects the thread from unwinding, so the thread cannot get tangled. As the thread is used, it can be easily unwound from the shuttle.
Tatting shuttles, in their variety, can be wooden, metal, plastic, and very special ones, even made of horn and bone. Antique shuttles were lovingly crafted from precious metals, silver and even gold, decorated with mother-of-pearl and expensive stones, carving and inlay.



http://content.foto.my.mail.ru/mail/nininana/_blogs/i-446.jpg
And here is the finished version, the plastic was taken from a (small) paint can.

For beginners, the simplest shuttle is quite suitable; we will try to make it ourselves. To do this, take some strong plastic jar, about 12 cm in diameter. For example, an empty plastic jar of tomato sauce or mayonnaise will do. The plastic should preferably be thick and elastic. Now from this jar, cut out two identical ovals, with sharp edges, something like a boat. You will also need a regular bobbin from a sewing machine.
All that remains to be done to make the tatting shuttle suitable for needlework is to carefully glue the bobbin between the boat petals. Tie the structure tightly with electrical tape, then let the glue dry thoroughly. Then remove the electrical tape, and then you will have a rather convenient lace-making device. This device can replace your factory shuttle.
After this, you can begin to learn the tatting technique itself.
Here in pictures:
Arc

For work we will need: 1 shuttle and 1 ball of nikto.
Take two threads in your hands - one from the ball, the other from the shuttle, tie them together, leaving the ends 5-7 cm free.
Take the resulting knot with the thumb and index finger of your left hand and hold it tightly.
Circle the thread coming from the ball back side fingers of your left hand, fasten it to the little finger of your left hand, making a few turns, this thread will be working.
The tension of the thread should be such that when bending the middle and ring fingers of the left hand, the thread does not slip off the little finger (otherwise, make another turn of the thread around the little finger or keep the little finger slightly bent); when straightening the fingers, the thread should move up without pulling the little finger.
While weaving, the ball should lie in front of you or hang - it depends on the severity of the ball and how well your fingers are trained. To master the element, unwind several meters of thread onto a separate ball so that the ball is no heavier than the shuttle with thread.
When weaving an arc, the tatting knot is performed in the same way as when weaving a ring.
To use the arc element in practice, I suggest weaving a braid consisting of arcs and rings.
For clarity, take a ball of thread of one color (pink), and wind threads of a different color (white) onto the shuttle.

Weave a ring according to the pattern:
1 - K(4p"4p2p2p4p"4)
Turn the work upside down and weave an arc according to the pattern:
2 - D(4p2p2p4)
Turn the work over again, this time arc down, ring up and weave a ring and so on.
To weave some ribbons and closed elements consisting of arcs and rings, it is enough to have one shuttle and 1-2 balls of thread. When a second shuttle is needed, we will talk about this a little later.
http://rukodelienn.forum2x2.ru/t28-topic


And for inspiration:

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Making a tatting shuttle at home

Unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to buy a shuttle in a store. This article will teach you how to make a tatting shuttle at home.
Usually weaving tatting lace is done using a shuttle. It must be said that there are also shuttleless methods of weaving tatting - this is needle tatting on a long and thick needle and even crocheted tatting. True, the last method applies to knitting. Shuttle lace is most famous in Russia, but needle lace is not as widespread, but it is loved in other countries of the world.

A shuttle is a device with which you can easily move a small ball of thread from place to place when weaving lace. In this case, the shuttle has a special shape that protects the thread from unwinding, so the thread cannot get tangled. As the thread is used, it can be easily unwound from the shuttle.
Tatting shuttles, in their variety, can be wooden, metal, plastic, and very special ones, even made of horn and bone. Ancient shuttles were lovingly made from precious metals, silver and even gold, decorated with mother-of-pearl and expensive stones, carvings and inlays.



http://content.foto.my.mail.ru/mail/nininana/_blogs/i-446.jpg
And here is the finished version, the plastic was taken from a (small) paint can.

For beginners, the simplest shuttle is quite suitable; we will try to make it ourselves. To do this, take some strong plastic jar, about 12 cm in diameter. For example, an empty plastic jar of tomato sauce or mayonnaise will do. The plastic should preferably be thick and elastic. Now from this jar, cut out two identical ovals, with sharp edges, something like a boat. You will also need a regular bobbin from a sewing machine.
All that remains to be done to make the tatting shuttle suitable for needlework is to carefully glue the bobbin between the boat petals. Tie the structure tightly with electrical tape, then let the glue dry thoroughly. Then remove the electrical tape, and then you will have a rather convenient lace-making device. This device can replace your factory shuttle.
After this, you can begin to learn the tatting technique itself.
Here in pictures:
Arc

For work we will need: 1 shuttle and 1 ball of nikto.
Take two threads in your hands - one from the ball, the other from the shuttle, tie them together, leaving the ends 5-7 cm free.
Take the resulting knot with the thumb and index finger of your left hand and hold it tightly.
Circle the thread coming from the ball along the back of the fingers of your left hand, secure it to the little finger of your left hand, making a few turns, this thread will be working.
The tension of the thread should be such that when bending the middle and ring fingers of the left hand, the thread does not slip off the little finger (otherwise, make another turn of the thread around the little finger or keep the little finger slightly bent); when straightening the fingers, the thread should move up without pulling the little finger.
While weaving, the ball should lie in front of you or hang - it depends on the severity of the ball and how well your fingers are trained. To master the element, unwind several meters of thread onto a separate ball so that the ball is no heavier than the shuttle with thread.
When weaving an arc, the tatting knot is performed in the same way as when weaving a ring.
To use the arc element in practice, I suggest weaving a braid consisting of arcs and rings.
For clarity, take a ball of thread of one color (pink), and wind threads of a different color (white) onto the shuttle.

Weave a ring according to the pattern:
1 - K(4p"4p2p2p4p"4)
Turn the work upside down and weave an arc according to the pattern:
2 - D(4p2p2p4)
Turn the work over again, this time arc down, ring up and weave a ring and so on.
To weave some ribbons and closed elements consisting of arcs and rings, it is enough to have one shuttle and 1-2 balls of thread. When a second shuttle is needed, we will talk about this a little later.
http://rukodelienn.forum2x2.ru/t28-topic


And for inspiration:

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A casting net (cape or parachute) is one of the most ancient methods of catching aquatic life with a net. You can fish with it from a boat from the shore or from a pier. Wherever there is a convenient place to throw it, and where there is a good bottom you can catch with this net.

Casting networks are divided into 2 groups: “Spanish Women” and “American Women”. This division means a difference in their design and functionality.

The main difference between the American ones is the presence of slings stretching to the center of the network fabric. These slings pass from a thick rope through a ring located in the center of the net and are tied to a rope with weights tied around the perimeter of the net. During the throw, the net opens due to centrifugal forces and falls onto the surface of the water in its entire plane. Then, due to the weight-weight, the net is quickly immersed in water around the perimeter, and in the center

Due to water resistance, a small dome of network is formed. This net can be used to fish both in the water column and from the bottom. If the bottom is good, then you can wait until the net falls to the bottom and immediately pull the rope. If the bottom is not very good, then without waiting for the net to fall to the bottom, you need to pull the rope tied to the slings in the center of the net. This will avoid unwanted snags. Further, continuing to pull, the slings will pull all the sinkers into one place - the net closes. At the same time, the middle of the net will lower and pockets will form on the sides where the caught fish will be clogged. When the sinkers begin to rise and press against the center of the net, the fish will not escape anywhere. Such nets are usually made from fishing line or nylon thread. The weight of a net with a diameter of ~3 m with weights is about 2.2 kg.

Spaniards do not have such slings. Closing the network is ensured by a cord stretched along the perimeter of the entire network, pulling which tightens the ring of the network - a circular drag is obtained.

Unlike Americans, due to these design features, the Spanish can reach up to 7 kg (D=3m) in weight! It all depends on the diameter of the network. They are usually made from nylon thread.

What type of network to buy or make for yourself is up to you! I advise you to go to the store, look and decide which one you need.

But for my region where there are silted ponds and small rivers, American is suitable for me. And it is easier to use. It’s easier to pull out the catch, easier to prepare for the throw, and it’s lighter. But for faster rivers the Spanish Flu would be more suitable.

The prices for casting networks in Russia are too high. You can buy a Chinese one with a diameter of 2.5m in a store for 2-4t.r. And normal ones will cost even more. It would be cheaper to buy it in foreign online stores, but according to customs rules, all fishing equipment and their parts for catching animals are PROHIBITED for transportation! Therefore, it is more profitable to make such a network yourself. It will take a long time, but you will get the network you need.

To make a cape net (its fabric), a regular net fabric is not suitable, since such a net will have cells stretched diagonally in the four corners when thrown and pulled. Because of this, the canvas in the elongated state can have the same radius, and when it opens, it can become square-like (or vice versa). Because of this, it won’t be possible to throw and the canvas will get tangled. From ordinary fabric, you can sew a casting fabric from triangles, so as to prevent the cells from stretching diagonally. But such networks will have many seams and there may be problems with load balance, which will affect the quality of the network opening.

The fabric must be knitted by hand or ordered from craftsmen.

I made such a network myself with a diameter of 3 m. cell=1.7cm. The thickness of the fishing line is 0.24 in about 1 month, but I knitted it whenever I had to. As a result, 28,000 knots were tied, 900 m were spent. fishing line (250 rub.) +50 rub. 75m. fishing line 0.8 for slings +10 rub. swivel +35 rub. 20 m. BRAIDED rope for body kit + 20 rub. 10 m. ropes for pulling (preferably also braided, but not essential) TOTAL = 415 rubles + lead from batteries. I used cheap “Klin” fishing line in reels, now I regret it. You need to take an inexpensive fishing line, but without memory! Klinskaya is a bit stiff, but it remembers the knitting position - then it springs back.

For knitting we will need:

1. Make a shuttle and template
2. Line for canvas. For cells from 15mm. up to 25mm, a fishing line D=0.20 (0.25) without memory is suitable. You can calculate the length of the fishing line and the expected amount of work in
3. Line for slings D=0.8. 100m coil is enough.
4. Rope for body kit. Nylon, wicker!!! See the length in the same table. Select the diameter depending on the weight of the sinker. Usually they recommend 5mm, but for me it’s 3mm. went great.
5. Rope for pulling the net. Nylon, thickness from 10mm (so as not to cut your hands) is also wicker.
6. Sinkers calculated at 1.2 kg. at 1m of network radius.
7. The swivel is stronger.
8. PVC pipe (connection) 32”
9. Plastic plate or bottle cap.

2. Making a shuttle for knitting a net.

Shuttles for knitting nets come in different types.

Basically, for weaving nets with large meshes, plate shuttles with two or one pointed side are used. Such shuttles are now sold in almost every fishing store and cost about 50 rubles.

These shuttles can be made of wood, plastic, textolite, metal plate or wire. It’s your choice of what to make from and what materials are at hand.

First, a plate is cut out in the form of a rectangle, the length of which should be from 15 to 30 cm. There is no point in making it longer as it will be inconvenient to weave. Longer ones can be used when weaving strong nets with thread or rope for hammocks. The width of the workpiece should be less than the mesh size of the future network, but sufficient to ensure the strength of the shuttle. For example, when I knitted a 1.7 cm mesh net, I used a 1.4 cm wide shuttle.

1. I recommend using a duralumin plate to make the shuttle. It is easy to process, the material itself is quite elastic and light, and sharp edges can be smoothed to a mirror state, which makes weaving easier.

2. Next, on one side of the plate, you need to make two cuts with a hacksaw at the same distance from the edge (see the black dotted line on the left), and on the other side, cut off two triangles, giving the shuttle a pointed shape.

3. Next, use pliers to break out a piece between the slots as in the picture along the red line. You should get two horns. And at the other end, many holes are drilled in a “U” shape. For braiding with 0.24-0.35 fishing line, the optimal gap at the top of the “U” will be about 2-3 mm. If you do more, the line will spontaneously fall off the shuttle during weaving.

4. Carefully process the break point (on the left) with a file, smooth out all sharp edges and irregularities. At the right end, use a file or other tool to grind off the partitions between the drilling holes and also remove all irregularities.

The line needs to be wound from one edge to the other. On the left, the fishing line is passed between the horns, then from the side where it comes out the fishing line is put in a loop on the remaining rod inside the “U”, then the fishing line is again led between the horns to the other side. etc.

The same shuttle is sometimes made pointed on both sides. But I think it will create more problems during its manufacture and winding of fishing line.

In the next version of the shuttle, there is no core inside the “U”, but thin cuts are made on the edges for the passage of the fishing line. These shuttles can hold a lot of fishing line. The fishing line is wound by alternately threading it through thin cuts at the edges.

These same shuttles are sometimes made of elastic wire. The wire is bent in this shape, after which another thinner wire, thread or electrical tape is wrapped in the center to give the shuttle strength. The fishing line is wound in the same way as the first shuttle discussed. In fact, this is what it is, only made of wire.

For knitting with a thin thread or thin fishing line of a network with a mesh size of less than 10 mm. It is better not to use a regular plate shuttle. In this case, due to the small size of the mesh of the network, every millimeter of the mesh should be saved so that as much fishing line as possible can be wound on the shuttle, and then it can be easily pulled through the mesh when tying knots. A needle-shaped shuttle made of thin elastic steel wire is suitable. To make it, you need to cut two pieces of wire of the same length. Next, using a vice and pliers, bend both ends of the wire as follows:

Both wires must be bent at each end so that the edges and places of bends coincide along the axes indicated in the figures.

When both wires are prepared, they need to be connected by wrapping them with a ton of wire or in some other way to ensure their immobility relative to each other.

Now the ends of the wires (see left) need to be slightly bent so that they rest against each other (see right end). And additionally, the ends of each wire on the outside can be sharpened, giving them a pointed shape. And grind down the places where the ends of the wires come into contact so that planes are formed with which they will touch, but sharp edges of the wires must not be allowed to remain in these places!

Now the shuttle is ready for winding fishing line or nylon thread onto it. The fishing line must be wound from one end of the shuttle to the other, passing it between the touching ends of the wire. To make it easier to wind the wire at both ends of the shuttle, you can bend it slightly (only while winding the line) - this will not only make it easier to thread the line between the ends of the wire, but will also prevent unnecessary friction and damage to the line on the remaining sharp edges.

To ensure that all network cells are the same size, a template plate is used. It can be made from anything. The main thing is that it is thin and durable. During the weaving process, you will repeatedly wind loops of fishing line around this template, which can lead to the appearance of cuts from the fishing line on its edges, to which it will cling. Therefore, in order not to make the template several times, it must be made of scratch-resistant material. For example, textolite, aluminum or some types of plastic. If you knit a little, you can use unnecessary plastic cards (bank cards, discount cards, etc.)

The length should be about 10-13 cm (this depends on the size of your palms). The length should be such that the template fits comfortably in your hand. The width of the template is equal to the cell size of your future network.

After you have cut the template to the required dimensions, carefully sand it with fine sandpaper to make it smooth. There should be no sharp edges or edges on it!

3.Knitting the net fabric.

I don't know exactly what this node is called. I have been knitting with it since childhood, as someone taught me. In principle, the knot is good, it does not stretch, but perhaps in comparison with the others it takes a little longer to knit, but when you learn how to knit it you will be able to knit very quickly.

I divided the knitting order shown in the picture into 6 stages using colors and numbers.

1. (necessary at the very beginning of knitting when we don’t have a single row yet) We tie a loop on a fishing line, the edge of which is fixed somewhere. See Fig.1 - Black

2. We already have a loop or loops from the previous row of the network. We pass the shuttle through the loop. See Fig.2 - Blue

3. Insert the template plate into the resulting new loop and pull the shuttle, pulling the fishing line and squeezing the template with it. See Fig.3 - Gray

4. While the fishing line is still stretched, press it with your finger to the template, thereby fixing it. Hold your finger. See Fig.4 - Orange

5. We hold our finger. And we draw the shuttle with fishing line around the previous loop (which we threaded into items 1 and 2 h filthy). We move the shuttle to the side. See Fig.5 - red

6. We hold our finger. And we pass the shuttle into the previous loop (which we threaded into items 1 and 2 black) on right. In this case, the loop from point 5 should also remain on top as in the figure. Then we pass the shuttle into the loop, which we still hold with our finger on the front side (closest to us).

Now, without releasing your finger, pull the shuttle and line down. the loops will begin to tighten points 5. and 4. And when you feel that the tension of the fishing line has reached your finger and there is no excess fishing line left on the loops, loosen your finger and continue to pull the shuttle until the loop under your finger is completely tightened.. See Fig.6 - Purple

You should start knitting the network with a set of primary loops. The knitting itself will be from the center of the network circle to its edge, so you can choose the diameter of the network yourself, the one you need or how much patience you have.

So, first you need to decide which way to knit in the round. There are two ways. The first is in a spiral from the center and the second in circles.

In any of the options, first we make a loop on the fishing line, see in Figure “1”, onto which we then cast on the required number of initial loops. I usually knit about 16 stitches. But it should be taken into account that the other end of the fishing line (not the one on the shuttle) should be left longer - approximately equal to the radius of the future net.

Now we knit the second third and fourth row. This way we get a rectangular network fabric. see figure “2 and 3”

For this fabric you need to tie the beginning and the end so that you get a ring of mesh. see figure "4" Next, we knit the remaining rows of the future network to the ring from one of the edges, simultaneously increasing the number of loops in each subsequent row (this is necessary for your network to increase in radius).

see in figure "5"

Well, if you want to weave in a spiral, then when tying the edges of the net, make a shift by 1 row (i.e. tie the end of the 1st row to the beginning of the 2nd, the end of 2 to the 3rd), after which the end of the 4th row will remain free. Next, to the free end of the 4th row, we will begin to tie the remaining loops, gradually increasing their number in each subsequent row, thereby increasing the number of spirals of the network and increasing the radius of the network, and so on ad infinitum.

Now about adding loops. This is necessary so that your network increases in radius, but at the same time remains flat and not in the form of a pipe or cone. To do this, you can calculate for yourself that it is necessary to increase the number of cells of each row or spiral by the number = PI = 3.14 - this is ideal. But in fact, after you tie it, the net will be pulled into a cone due to the memory of the fishing line. Therefore, increase the number of loops by 4 or 5. cmin figure "6"

Now about the knitting methods. I would still advise weaving in rows (parallel rings). With this method, when casting, the net opens up better.

I also advise you to mark with some marks on the network canvas the places on the circles where you need to add the number of cells (for example, I use tapes with Velcro). This is necessary in order to remember to add cells exactly where needed. Naturally, they need to be removed and moved to the right places.

see in figure "7"

Also, in order to avoid curvature of the mesh circumference on each new weaving row, you should shift the place where cells are added by +1 cell!

For example, we started the network with 16 cells, we need each new row add 4 cells each, which means that on the new row the places where +1 cells are added (four times) will be located through 4 cells of the previous row 16/4 = 4, etc. for the next row the number of cells is already 16+4=20, and the places where cells are added are 20/4=5 cells. Etc. But do not forget to shift the places where you add cells by +1 cell in the row.

see picture

If during knitting you forgot to add cells in any place, it’s okay to make another +1 cell in the next row - in the future this defect will be leveled out and will be invisible, but try not to make such mistakes. It’s better, of course, if you notice the omission of adding a cell before you finish the row and add the missing cell to the same row.

4. Casting sinkers.

There are many sinkers with ready-made holes for rope for casting. different options. Basically, they are based on one simple principle - lead is poured into a mold with a steel core (rod) in it, which is then removed. Believe me, drilling holes takes much longer, and due to the viscosity of lead, there is a chance of breaking a bunch of drills.

First I tried to carve the shape of the sinkers into two plaster plates. At the same time, it is very difficult to carve in the already hardened plaster the very shape of the future sinkers, a groove for placing a steel rod in it, and even so that it is all symmetrical on both plates!

Accordingly, due to these same difficulties, the resulting weights were very crooked, scary, and the injection molds did not always match.

After struggling with them, I found an easier and quick way casting with hole.

In the same plaster plates, using this device, I drilled several holes of the diameter I needed. And the knitting needle sticking out in the center additionally drilled a small recess into which I later inserted a steel rod to create a hole in the weight. This can also be done using drills and drills. And this thing just fell into my hands. This seems to be the former pointer of a pressure gauge or other pointer instrument.

During the casting process, I tried to drill such holes from the flat side of the plaster, but this greatly increases the overlay on top of the mold, which will have to be trimmed further in the future. Therefore, I advise you to make a gypsum plate 3-5 mm thick. larger holes (on the sides), which will ensure easy drainage of excess poured lead from the surface of the mold.

The casting process itself is very simple. In the iron tin can melt the lead. Insert the steel core into the center of the mold (exactly into the recess whose diameter should approximately coincide with the steel core rod). The diameter of this rod should be equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the rope later used to hang the net.

Once all the lead has melted, take the jar with pliers and pour it into the mold. I advise you to tilt the mold a little so that excess lead flows to one side. While the lead is cooling in the mold, but has not yet hardened, rotate the steel rod along the axis - this will prevent the cooling lead from sticking. As soon as the lead begins to harden (it becomes like porridge, even grains are visible J), ​​pull out the rod.

Having cooled a little in the mold, the lead shrinks and you can pull out the resulting sinker blank by lightly shaking it.

The plaster mold must be dry! You can’t cool it or the lead in it with water! In the first case, there is a chance that lead will splash on you and burn you, and in the second, the form will simply crack!

It should be noted that from my own experience I know that in order for the sinkers to be less confused with the net fabric, they need to be made of an elongated, cylindrical shape. It is desirable that their length be equal to two cell sizes.

When casting, you get these ready-made but not yet processed sinker blanks. Here you can clearly see that the excess lead has stacked on the side of the mold, and the buildup is very small.

Next, you need to cut off the entire overlap with pliers. Carefully collect the scraps and pour them into a jar for re-melting.

So that when using the sinkers they do not cling, scratch or cut the fishing line or rope, then it is necessary to smooth out the sharp edges remaining after trimming the excess. Although the metal is soft, there is a small chance of damaging the network fabric.

We will smooth the edges using the rolling method. To do this, pour all the finished, cut weights into a plastic bottle or canister (it all depends on the volume and size of your weights). According to the technology, you can also add several large balls from bearings, but special + will not be. Now this bottle or canister needs to be shaken, kicked or whatever else you can think of, the main thing is that the weights inside shake, hit and rub against each other. They need to be taken out when ready. The edges should be rounded, without burrs or sharp edges. You can also add a little paraffin to the bottle when rolling, so that in the future the sinkers will get less dirty on your hands.

5.Assembling the body kit.

Finished weights with holes should be washed with water and dried.

To make a net kit, weights need to be placed on a nylon braided rope. A twisted rope is not suitable, as it may subsequently affect the opening of the net when throwing. Or simply, it will get tangled with the slings and net, twisting under the weight of the sinkers.

Since the net is nylon, and even braided, to make it easier to attach the sinkers, as well as to prevent the upper braid of the rope from moving relative to the inner one, one end of it must be melted over a fire and while it is hot, give it an elongated, refined needle shape.

Having strung all the sinkers, you need to secure them on the rope at an equal distance, so that the weight is enough for your net (1.2 kg/1 m radius). This can be done in 3 ways:

1. Simplest. You can squeeze the sinkers a little by holding the rope inside. But with this method there is a chance of crushing the rope. And if you make a mistake with the distance between the weights, it will be impossible to redo it, and the weights can only be cut off and melted down.
2. Having placed the weight at the required distance from the previous one, secure it by tying knots with fishing line or nylon thread on both sides. In this case, it will be possible to redo the detected errors.
3. Secure the sinkers with knots of the same rope. It will also be possible to correct the error without damaging the weights. But you will have to untie knots, a bunch of knots, or cut the rope.

6. Linking the body kit to the network.

You can tie the kit to the net using fishing line or nylon thread pre-wound on a shuttle - this is more convenient.

Before tying the body kit, you need to calculate how many net cells should be located between the weights and at what distance so that the net cells are neither compressed nor stretched. And monitor the uniformity of the number of cells while knitting. It is advisable to tie a suspension to each cell to more evenly distribute the load on the network fabric.

After the kit is completely tied to the network, you need to tie the ends of the rope with two ordinary knots and tighten them tightly with pliers. The knot can also be wrapped with nylon thread, giving it additional strength. Or, after tightening the knots, both ends can be cut off, melted over a fire and fused into one ball, which will also prevent the rope from coming undone. It would be enough.

If the loads are small, then they can be secured to the rope several at a time. For example, my loads turned out to be too small, 5-6 grams each. For my network with a radius of 1.6 m, 2 kg of weights are needed. At the base, the network had about 410 cells. Which means to hang 2 kg. Weights then need to be tied 1 to each loop. It would be long and tedious, so I grouped the loads in groups of 3 and secured them with knots of the same rope. In this version, the rope with weights gets even less tangled in the net and its mobility is not limited.

7.Attaching the slings

Before we start tying the slings, it is necessary to make and secure a pass-through ring. This ring is necessary so that when casting and pulling the net, the lines do not get tangled with the net itself, but pass freely through it.

For manufacturing you will need a PVC adapter tube with a diameter of 32-25 used for welding PVC water pipes.

On the wide part it is necessary to machine or melt a groove of small depth.

Next, string the center of the network fabric with a nylon thread (around the hole left during weaving). This hole in the center is where you started the first rows of your net when weaving

Then pull the hole with the nylon thread onto the prepared PVC tube and firmly fasten the net fabric to the tube by winding it with the remnants of the same nylon thread. It should look like in the photo:

The photo shows that I fused two wires in the center of the PVC tube. They are necessary to divide the slings into four groups - according to sectors of the network. This will provide additional separation between the lines so that they do not stick together when casting. Later I removed them, but it turned out in vain! Without these wires, the wet slings began to stick together more strongly, which greatly interferes with the good opening of the net.

8.Manufacture and fastening of slings.

Slings for American-type casting nets are made from fishing line with a thickness of 0.8-1 mm. The fishing line must be without memory so that it does not get tangled. First you need to calculate how many slings you will need. Many casting network manuals offer this calculation option. Considering that the slings should be tied at least every 40cm. you need to divide the circumference of the straightened net by 40. Let’s say I have a net in the straightened state (flat circle) with a radius of 1.6 m. Then its length is L=2*P*R =10.048 m. number of lines = 10.048/0.4=25.12

It turns out that my network will require 25 lines. But there is a minus in this calculation! The number of weights tied to the net between the slings may be different, which will upset the balance of the net.

It is better to count the total number of sinkers (or groups of sinkers) connected to the network. measure approximately how many sinkers need to be placed so that the distance is within 40 cm and divide the total amount by the amount in the measured distance.

You may have to experiment a little with the distance between future sling attachments and the number of weights between them. It is necessary to select such a number of weights between the lines that when dividing the total number of weights by the number of them between the lines, the number closest to the whole is obtained.

Now cutting the slings:

The length of the sling differs from the radius of the circle of the straightened net! When you take the net by the ring in the center of the circle and lift it from the net, all the cells are stretched diagonally. This extended length should be used for slings. You can measure it with a meter, having stretched out the net in advance. Or more exact method This is to count the number of rows of the network (the number of circles of the network) from the center to the edge (you can count the knots). Then multiply the calculated amount by the size of the side of the cell. This is exactly how long all slings should be + allowance for a loop and knot of about 15-20 cm for each sling.

On each cut sling, you need to tie a loop on one side with a single or double knot. The loops of all slings should be approximately the same.

To align, string all the slings in loops onto a hard object, such as a nail driven somewhere. Next, smooth out the slings, untangle them along their entire length and pull them out. Now measure the distance of the length of the sling from the knots of the loops (without the previously added margin) and add 1 cm to it. (The slings are still gathered together and extended) at this distance we will tie the rope with weights. This distance now needs to be marked with a marker on each line!

Now everything is ready for binding. Place the net with the inside facing up.

One sling at a time, alternately tie them to a rope with weights at the previously calculated distance. And don’t forget about the mark on the lines made with a marker! The knot must be located at this mark! I do not recommend using a regular knot tied twice as it ruins the fishing line. In the place where you pull the knot, the sling may break (as it already happened to me).

I tried this one (1) knot and it hasn’t let me down yet (the line in this knot does not tighten, but wraps around the rope and has a self-tightening knot):

Having tied this knot, I advise you to tie the remaining short end to the rope with a double knot, just in case. (2) , and then tie a single next to it (3) . All three knots must be knitted very close to each other. This line catch combination will last forever!

By the way, do not rush to cut off the remaining short pieces from the slings. In many methods of casting a casting net, the lower edge of the net (the rope itself with weights) is taken into the mouth, but since after the first cast it can already be dirty, it is better to take with your teeth not the rope, but just these remaining pieces of lines. The fishing line still retains less silt and dirt on its surface.

Now, so that the lines do not get tangled in the future when casting, take them one by one along the circumference of the net and string them on a thick rope. When all the slings are strung, tie all the loops of the slings with several knots and pull the entire resulting bundle through a ring of PVC tube tied in the center of the net.

Now the net can be turned over with the outer side up. Pull a plastic plate with a hole in the center with a radius of about 1.5-2 cm onto the sling loops tied together; this will serve as a limiter for the slings. You can use a cork from plastic bottles. The plate (plug) must be lowered below the nodes (on the slings themselves). Wrap the hinge nodes with several layers of electrical tape so that the nodes cannot slip back through the plastic plate.

Tie a strong swivel onto the same rope after the knots with loops. The swivel will prevent twisting of the pulling rope, slings and net web, since when casting the net rotates along its axis. A thick braided rope is tied to another ring of the swivel to pull the net out of the water.

At the free end of the rope to pull the net, you need to tie a small self-tightening loop, which will secure the rope to your hand when casting.

All! Now your casting net is ready to fish. Good luck with your fishing and fewer snags!

P.S. photo of my first catch: