Practical work. Processing darts Horizontal and vertical darts on the skirt and bodice

Darts are used in the manufacture of all types of products for men, women and children. Depending on their location, darts can be at the elbow, shoulder, top, on skirts and trousers - along the waistline, on the front - along the waistline, directed up and down. Darts can be split, uncut, or can turn into folds and tucks (Figure 6.6).

Figure 6.6 – Processing darts

Undercuts are usually used in women's and baby dress, coat to create a loose fit, replacing darts on the front of the dress, skirts, and sleeves. Darts and undercuts in the product must meet the following requirements: symmetrical arrangement on the parts, tight fit of the part allowances, absence of slack at the ends and material flow due to differences in its thickness, presence of fastenings at the ends of the lines.

The cut darts are sewn down, starting from the cut of the part, with a seam 7-10 mm wide, reducing the width to nothing and ending with a stitch 10-15 mm below the cut. If the dart is located in the middle of the part, it is ground down, starting and ending the stitching 10-15 mm from the ends of the dart. The ends of the darts are secured. The dart is ironed out by ironing the slack at the end and securing it in lined items with a strip of adhesive-coated material. You can also lay a strip of material when sewing a dart, followed by notching and bending this strip in one direction (photo 6.13, a, b, c, d, e, f, g, i)

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Photo 6.13 – Processing a split dart

Continuous darts are ground in the same way as split darts, according to pre-applied markings (fold lines and ends). Darts are ironed or ironed, placing the middle line along the stitching seam (photo 6.14, a, b).

Photo 6.14 – Processing a continuous dart

In products made from woolen suiting and coat fabrics, a strip of fabric is placed along the entire length of the dart. When ironing the dart, the allowance is placed on one side, and the strip on the other, which is necessary to obtain uniform thickness in the dart area (photo 6.15, a, b, c, d, e, f, g).

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Photo 6.15 – Processing a dart with a strip of fabric

Continuous darts are used in products made of thin fabrics, as well as in outerwear made of dense and thick fabrics, if the length of the dart is no more than 160 mm. Seam allowances for split and continuous darts can be stitched or unstitched in products made from materials that are difficult to apply to WTO.

In products made from artificial materials (fur, leather, suede, quilted fabrics, raincoat fabrics), as well as from natural leathers, fur, suede, tucks are made with an overlay seam with open or closed cuts or ground down without lining a strip of fabric.

Connecting the components of the shelves and back.

In accordance with the design, the shelves and back of the product can be one-piece or consist of several parts. The components of the shelves and back can be connected by stitching, stitching, overlay seams with closed cuts, etc., which is determined by the technical description for the model.

For example, consider the processing of a split back consisting of two halves. The middle sections of the back are leveled and stitched with a 10 mm wide seam along the right side of the back, starting from the neck sections, without tension or seating of the parts. The seams are pressed or ironed taking into account the description for the model.

When joining parts of shelves and backs made of striped and checkered fabric, it is necessary to adjust the pattern on the parts so that it matches the parts of the parts or is located symmetrically to the seam line.

Molding of parts of shelves and back by wet-heat treatment.

The purpose of this operation is to give the shelves and back a three-dimensional shape that matches the design of the product. It is performed using special or universal presses with special pillows, as well as irons. The shape of the parts is given by ironing and pulling out the corresponding sections of the parts and their cuts. The amount of ironing and pulling is included in the design of the product when developing the model (Figure 6.7).

Figure 6.7 – Molding of shelves and backs using WTO

Currently, when developing the design of products, the shape of the parts of the shelves and back in most cases is provided with various design solutions, which leads to a reduction or even elimination of operations for molding these parts during high-pressure technology.

To secure the shape given during WTO and protect the cuts from stretching in order to maintain the shape and dimensions of the design lines, an adhesive or non-adhesive edge is laid along the cuts of the parts. The location of the edge, the degree of tension of the edge, the amount of fit of parts on the edge are determined by the design, taking into account the type of material and are indicated in the description of the model. As a rule, the edge is laid along the armhole sections of the shelves and the back, the shoulder sections of the shelves, the cut of the back neckline, i.e. cuts cut at an angle to the warp thread and easily subject to stretching. The edge is laid at a distance of 3-5 mm from the sections of the parts.

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Hello! In this article we will talk about wet-heat treatment of connecting seams and darts when sewing products.

They say that a good seamstress must have two qualities: perseverance and a love of ironing. Yes, yes, ironing, since wet-heat treatment is an important and integral part in tailoring, which makes up 50% of the entire sewing process and largely affects the quality of the product itself.

Why is wet-heat treatment so necessary and important? The fact is that when sewing stitches, even on a very well-adjusted machine, the fabric shrinks a little. This happens due to the teeth of the machine, which move the fabric and slightly gather the bottom layer of fabric, and the foot, in turn, straightens the top layer of fabric. As a result, the seam of the product turns out to be wavy and gathered like this.

After wet-heat treatment, the fabric straightens and the seam looks smoother and more aesthetically pleasing.

That's why It is necessary to iron the parts after each sewing operation, after each stitch, whether it be a seam or a decorative stitch.

Moreover, some hand-made seams also need to be ironed for the same reason - the fit of the fabric. Yes, even when we baste or baste the pieces, we sit the fabric down slightly. For some fabrics or products this is not critical, however, always iron the basted hem of the hemline (sleeves, skirts, trousers), as well as the basted instep and side seams of trousers.

Now let's talk about allowances. According to the method of processing allowances, connecting seams are divided into three types: edge seams, pressed seams and pressed seams.

Connecting seam on the edge (Fig. 1) iron from the wrong side of the product on both sides, while the allowances are ironed together and left in this position (such seams are used in the lower part of the armhole when sewing in sleeves, in trousers along the seat line, in burlap pocket details).

Open-iron connecting seam(Fig. 2): first, the allowances are ironed on the edge on the wrong side of the product, and then they are ironed on opposite sides of the seam. It is necessary to iron the seam allowances in two steps: first, without steam, use the tip of the iron directly on the seam chip, opening the seam allowances, and only then iron the opened allowances with steam and let them stand. (Seams pressed, as a rule, are used in products made of dense fabrics).

Ironed connecting seam(Figure 2): first of all, the allowances are ironed on the edge, and then both allowances are ironed on one side. (Pressed seams are used in items made from thinner fabrics.)

WTO allowances
Let's look at the pressed seam in more detail. From the above it follows that the allowances of such a connecting seam are ironed to one side, and when processing a certain sewing unit, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology and iron the allowances in the desired direction. But what difference does it make in which direction to iron the seam allowances? It's more a question of the quality of work. The fact is that a sewn product is considered to be of high quality if the connecting seams on the front side of the product are invisible to the eye. When the allowances are ironed, an additional thickness is formed, and on the front side the part on which the allowances are ironed protrudes slightly from the seam chip, and the connecting seam is “hidden” under the thickness of the fabric when viewed from the side of this part. For example, if the shoulder seam allowances are ironed to the front side, then we will not see this seam at the front of the product.

Based on this, the allowances for the following connecting seams are ironed as follows:
Side seams in shoulder and waist items, iron on the front side.

The trousers have side and crotch seams iron on the front halves (for trousers made of thin fabrics).

However, if there is a dart in the side seam, which creates excessive thickness of the fabric, then the side seam allowances are ironed to the back side.

Shoulder seams ironed to the side of the shelf.

If there is a chest dart in the shoulder seam, which forms a sufficient thickness of the fabric, then the shoulder seam allowances are ironed to the back side.

Other vertical seams In both shoulder and waist items, the parts (front or back) are ironed towards the midline.

Allowances horizontal seams ironed upwards.

WTO darts
Wet-heat treatment of darts is carried out in three stages:
on the wrong side of the product, the stitched dart is ironed on the edge on both sides, while the iron should not go beyond the top of the dart;

In accordance with the technology, the dart is ironed in the desired direction, without the iron going beyond the top of the dart.

if the dart is made of very dense fabric, in this case the tuck opening is cut off at a distance of 1 cm from the stitching seam, the remaining cut sides of the dart are ironed;

Finally, the resulting bulge is ironed near the top of the dart.

(read how to iron fabric correctly ).

By technology vertical darts in shoulder and waist items, the part (front or back) is ironed towards the middle line,

horizontal darts ironed up.

WTO allowances and sleeve darts
Just like in other parts, the connecting seam allowances in the sleeves are ironed for thick fabrics or ironed to one side for thin fabrics.
Allowances in two-seam sleeves side seams ironed to the side top part,

in a single-seam sleeve - on the front side,

however, if an elbow dart is present in the side seam of the sleeve and creates excess thickness, then the allowances are pressed to the back side.

Horizontal elbow dart , like all horizontal darts, is ironed upward.

Stitching seam the sleeves are ironed on the edge from the wrong side of the product, first from the sleeve side, finally ironing the remaining folds that formed when fitting the sleeve at the allowances. Then the seam is ironed from the armhole side. On both sides, the seam is ironed very carefully with the tip of the iron, trying not to let the iron reach the sleeve itself.

The sleeve seam allowances are ironed to the sleeve side only along the upper part of the armhole/sleeve hem, the rest of the allowances remain ironed to the edge.

These are the most basic principles of WTO seams and darts. Of course, each specific product has its own nuances when performing wet-heat treatment, which I discuss in more detail in master classes.

So that the finished product has perfect view, during the sewing process it is necessary to carry out wet-heat treatment (WHT) of each section. This should be done sequentially, and the sewing machine and iron should follow each other during operation. By the way, if the master makes a mistake, you can correct a lot with the help of an iron and steam. It’s not for nothing that tailors have this saying: “the tailor makes shit, the iron makes right.” In this tutorial we will tell you how to properly iron seam allowances and form darts.

Advice! To prevent seam allowances from being imprinted on the front side of the product, place a strip of thick paper under the seam allowance, iron the convex sections of the seams on a tailor’s blank, and the straight sections on a seam roller.

Side and shoulder seams

Often, the side and shoulder seam allowances in a product are overcast and ironed; the seam on the front side in this case looks flat.

Rice. 1. Processing seam allowances “by ironing”

In cases where the allowances in the product are overcast together, they are ironed on the front along the sides and shoulder seams. Allowances on clothes made of knitted fabric are overcast, taken together and also ironed to the front.

Rice. 2. Processing allowances “in ironing”

Relief seams of the product

In dresses and blouses, raised seams, such as princess seams (from the armhole line), vertical reliefs (from the shoulder seam), etc., are ironed on the front to the mid-front line, on the back - to the central back seam. Why is this so? When you put the product on your figure, the light falls in such a way that with this ironing the seam looks neater and flatter (Fig. 3). Rounded part lateral relief Slightly sit at chest level; excess fabric that forms at the seam allowances must be cut into a corner.

Rice. 3. Vertical reliefs on the bodice of the dress - the allowances are placed towards the center (correctly)

Allowances pressed to the side seams emphasize the thickness of the seam and look rough (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Vertical reliefs on the bodice of the dress - allowances are laid to the sides (incorrectly)

On items made of thick coat fabrics, raised seams may be ironed. To give the seams a flat shape, iron a small section of the seam with a steam iron from the front side, you can use an ironing iron (a piece of cotton fabric).

Rice. 5. Ironing the seam using a steam generator

Then immediately apply a tamper to the treated area and press for 6-8 seconds, the tamper will absorb excess moisture, and the fabric along the seam will take a flat shape. Treat all seams using this method (Fig. 5, 6).

Rice. 6. Ironing the seam using a tamper

Horizontal and vertical darts on the skirt and bodice

Horizontal darts on the bodice

The depth of the chest horizontal dart is ironed upward. Why this way? A rolled seam is formed, which is least noticeable, since the light falls from above, the seam looks neat and thinner, and is almost invisible on variegated fabrics. Iron the waist seam of the dress down.

Rice. 7. The horizontal dart on the bodice is laid up (correctly)

Seam allowances pressed down emphasize the thickness of the seam and look rough (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8. The horizontal dart on the bodice is laid down (incorrectly)

Remember a simple rule: The depth of the front and rear waist darts on the product is set to the center of the front or back. Why? All for the same reason mentioned above - the dart in this position looks flatter and is visually less noticeable.

Sew the dart according to the markings, fasten the ends of the threads and cut them. Iron the dart from the wrong side, not reaching 1-1.5 cm from the top.

Rice. 9. Ironing the waist dart from the wrong side

To give the dart a curved shape, use a tailor's blank. Place the dart depth to the mid-front/back line and iron. To prevent the depth of the dart from being imprinted on the front side of the product, place a strip of paper under the seam allowance. Iron the dart 1-1.5 cm short of the top of the dart.

Rice. 10. Ironing using a strip of paper

Use a tailor's block and give the dart its final shape - iron from the front side, slightly pulling the dart at the top. There should be no creases at the top of the dart.

Rice. 11. Forming a waist dart on a tailor's blank

Deep darts or darts on thick fabrics must be cut in the center, not reaching 1 cm from the top of the dart.

Rice. 11 a. Deep tuck processing

Place the dart allowances in different directions and iron (Fig. 11a-b).

Rice. 11 b. Deep dart iron

How to fit the shoulder seam of the back without a dart?

An increase in fit is placed along the shoulder seam of the back of the product (in most patterns) (in some cases, a dart is placed along the shoulder seam of the back). This is necessary for a better fit of the product on the back. How to properly position the backrest shoulder in this case? This can be done quite simply.

Place 2 parallel lines along the shoulder seam with a stitch length of 4 mm, 2-3 mm above the shoulder line marking.

Rice. 12. Auxiliary stitches along the shoulder seam

Take the bottom threads and pull, aligning the length of the back shoulder with the length of the front shoulder. Distribute the gathering to avoid wrinkles.

Rice. 13. Seat the shoulder seam

Iron the back along the shoulder seam (Fig. 14).

Rice. 14. Ironing the shoulder seam

Place the back and shelf right sides together, pin or baste. To prevent the shoulder seam from stretching (this is especially important when sewing products from elastic fabrics and knitted fabrics), use cotton braid 0.5 cm wide (Fig. 15). You can also use it to fix the length of the shoulder seam.

Rice. 16. Ironing seam allowances

On the side of the shoulder seam, the backs are rounded, which ensures an ideal fit along the back of the product.

Rice. 17. Shoulder seam of the back of the product

Now that you know how to iron darts, your projects will be even more perfect. To consolidate the results of the lesson, we suggest you complete a simple practical task:

Form the waist dart of the skirt using the method given in this lesson.
Experiment with raised seam allowances - iron them first to the center of the bodice, then to the side seams and visually evaluate the appearance of the product.
Perform a WTO seam on a product made of wool fabric using a tamper. Evaluate the appearance of the seam from the front side before and after tamping.

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Darts are details without which it is impossible to correctly form the relief of adjacent clothing and ensure a beautiful fit of things according to the figure. On finished product they are sections of fabric separated from the part by stitching. In the drawing they are indicated by wedge-shaped triangles or slightly curved lines.

As a rule, elements that change the relief and outlines of things are made invisible. But there are also decorative external details. You can do without them only when designing very loose, “flying” clothes. Most fitted and semi-fitted styles include them. In some cases, it is possible to make raised seams; in general, it is the darts that are responsible for the sculptural fit. The craftsman must not only know how to design them, but also perform wet-heat treatment (WHT) of the products so that the finished item looks presentable.

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Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric, the type of element itself, they work with it differently. The most common option is darts with widening on one side and narrowing on the other. On longer sections, open cuts are usually made. For such parts, the side lines are beveled - this creates the required depth. Elements on the bodice or skirt of the dress must end smoothly towards the top so that there is no sharp angle if this is not provided for in the style. To fulfill this condition, even during construction, the part is slightly bent on the sides. This is what needs to be reflected when smoothing the part.

Basic rules for constructing darts

To construct a dart on paper and then correctly execute it according to the material, you need experience, a steady hand and knowledge of the matter. Difficulties often arise with this element, including at the final stage of sewing. The question of where to iron darts on a dress, jacket, or skirt raises a lot of controversy. By choosing the right direction, you will ensure that your clothes are neat and cohesive. appearance without unsightly folds or creases - the item will fit beautifully to your figure. Most of these parts are located in conspicuous places, so their imperfections are visible to others, and they are difficult to redo.

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Before stitching, to preserve the shape, it is necessary to sweep or pin the elements with pins, bending them in half. Which side to choose for ironing depends on the location of the part.

Generally accepted rules for processing parts

The details on the front are ironed towards the side seam.
Darts along the back, as well as waist darts along the skirt, need to be pressed towards the central seam.
On the shoulders, the details can be ironed towards the center or in different directions (but on “problem” fabrics like chiffon or stretch jersey, many tailors choose one).
In some cases, breast darts coming out of the side seams should be ironed downwards, just like the elbow darts on dresses with long sleeves.
Side details iron down.

Based on the rules, each master independently decides where to direct the element when smoothing. Taken into account individual characteristics products, personal taste, some special private wishes. When designing darts, the correct smoothing of the seams is also taken into account. On the sides they are ironed to the shelf, if relief is not provided there, and to the back, if provided. In dresses with chest darts, shoulder seam allowances are pressed using the same principle. On single-seam sleeves that do not have an elbow relief-forming element, allowances are smoothed out. If there is a dart, they are ironed to the shelf.

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It is advisable to iron on special rounded wooden blocks. They absorb excess liquid that appears during the wet-heat treatment process and help maintain shape. In the most inaccessible, narrow places, it is recommended to use spoons with long handles. When placing the product on the ironing board with the wrong side up, the neck is placed along left hand– you need to smooth out the part yourself. When working, they also take into account what fabric the dress is made from.

How fabric affects the process of ironing darts

The main characteristic of the fabric that influences the choice of “direction” for darts and the features of the work is its density. On the thickest materials, the element is cut through the central part, not bringing the cut to the tops by 1-1.5 centimeters - this must be taken into account when ironing the sides. Transparent, “airy” materials require careful handling: they should not be pulled when ironing. When transferring the darts, use a soft disappearing marker and make a “snatch” with the seam back. After stitching, before smoothing, the ends of the seam are checked - the threads must be well secured (for example, with two knots).

During processing, pay attention to the texture of the material. For velvet, corduroy and similar fleecy and dense fabrics, the elements are ironed by lightly touching the surface of the fabric without pressing on it. If wrinkles have formed on the front side, they are removed with brushes over steam or damp soft cloth, folded in several layers. When sewing items made of silky velvet, it is advisable to press the details while hanging.

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Work progress with darts when working with standard suiting fabric with medium density

The part is folded along the central axis, pinned and swept away.
A stitch is sewn along the part using a machine (on an oblique basis). At the beginning you will need a back-and-forth tack, and at the end the threads are left free.
Iron the rib on the folded dart without bringing the iron below its corner.
The part is turned in the desired direction. It will have to be smoothed along the edge, being careful not to go into it, so that there are no prints left on the front surface.

Ironing thick fabric

Small elements made of dense materials can be worked in two ways. The first one is more often used with dresses made from the warmest fabric and with outerwear. You will need a separate rectangle of fabric, which along the center line is aligned with the side of the dart.

Progress

The part is cleaved along the rib line, stitched on a machine, a tack is made at the top and the stitching is completed to the end of the part using additional fabric.
The strip of fabric is folded in half and ironed along the edge.
Unfold the dart and additional fabric to the sides.
Iron the element.
The additional section is trimmed evenly and, if necessary, its edges are overlocked.

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The second method is used for darts with significant depth - on the chest or waist. The fragment is sewn on a machine along its entire length, and the lower and upper fastenings are made. Then they cut along the rib line, leaving about 2 centimeters intact at the corners. The sides are ironed with steam in different directions, pressing the fabric until it cools completely. To prevent the flying parts from appearing on the front surface, moisture-heat treatment is performed underneath them, cutting off excess material if necessary. If you are sewing a dress with a lining, the split detail will be invisible.

Processing darts on the waist and skirt

Vertical darts, which are used to create relief in the waist area, are processed differently. The elements have sharp corners along the edges - the machine stitch is laid from one of them to the other.

The part is folded along the center line and steamed.
Iron each side in turn, straightening the material.
Turn the part to one side.
Pull the fabric along the edge so that there is a straight line on the front surface.

When working with things made of dense materials on a lining, you need to cut the element in several areas. If the fabric is thin, it is better not to make a tuck, but to work out the relief. Otherwise it will look rough.

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The details of the skirts are smoothed towards the middle to create something like a wedge-triangle. Its ending is nullified, and the line is laid from the waist level to the bottom, along the entire length. The remaining threads can be pulled to the wrong side using a sewing needle. knitting machine. For ironing, it is advisable to use a special pillow on which the dress is placed face down. In order for the wet-heat treatment to be done correctly, the ironing iron is soaked in water, wrung out well (steamed to be safe) and placed on the wrong surface of the dress.

Progress

Place the dart towards the center of the item.
Carefully walk the iron along the part on which the iron lies - in the direction from the waist, along the entire length.
If a “bubble” appears at the dart on the skirt, it is smoothed out by ironing circular movements. The easiest way to perform the operation is on elongated “wedges” that smoothly converge to the top.

The chest pieces are ironed towards the waist. If the dress has raised seams, they will be ironed to the midline.

Dart processing technology

Completed by a municipal technology teacher educational institution average secondary school No. 53, the city of Komsomolsk-on-Amur, Khabarovsk Territory.

Why are darts needed?

Darts are necessary to give the product the shape of the human body. Almost no product is complete without darts. Methods for processing darts and the size of their solution depend on the type of dart, on the characteristics of the figure and on the properties of the material from which the product is made.

Darts in different products

Darts are processed on the front, back, front and back panels of the skirt, back and front halves of the trousers in the waist area to fit the clothing to the human body.

Marking darts Marking darts

To process the dart coming from the cut, mark the dart lines on the wrong side of the part with chalk lines: line 1 – line of the middle of the dart,

lines 2 – lines of the sides of the dart,

line 3 – line limiting the length of the dart.

The distance between the lines of the sides of the dart, measured along the waist line, is called the tuck opening.

Primary requirements

The completed darts must meet the following requirements:

– Allowances for processing darts should fit snugly to the parts.
– Paired darts should be symmetrical and the same length.
– Bar tacks must be made at the ends of the darts.
– At the ends of the darts, the slack of the fabric should be well tucked.
– Finishing stitches, on stitching and stitching darts, should not be secured with machine reverse stitching - bartacking. The ends of the threads of finishing machine stitches are brought to the wrong side and tied with a knot.
The darts should be ironed towards the middle of the part.

Work order

Observe safety regulations when working with hand tools, when working on sewing machine, when working with an iron;
In the middle of the piece of fabric, on the wrong side, mark a dart: length 18 cm, opening 8 cm (4 cm from the middle of the dart to the left and right), draw the sides of the dart.
Fold the piece right side inward, pin the dart together, sweep it, matching the sides of the dart, starting from the top to the cut.
Sew the dart along the side line, starting from the cut to the top, gradually reducing the stitching to nothing. At the beginning and at the end of the line, make bartacks. Remove the basting threads.
Press the fold of the dart and the seam. Iron the tuck to one side. Press up the slack at the top of the dart from the wrong side.

Manufacturing technology

The piece is folded right side inward along the center line, basted, and then ground down.
Darts are ground down starting from the cuts and ending strictly at the transverse lines defining the end of the dart.
Iron or iron (depending on the type of material) and iron towards the middle of the part.

Wet heat treatment of skirt darts

The resulting slack in the fabric in the area of the ends of the darts is ironed with arcuate movements of the iron, after moistening it.

The iron must be moved from one area to another without moving it across the fabric to avoid stretching.

To secure the required shape, it is necessary to completely remove moisture from the fabric.

Be sure to take into account the properties of the fabric, maintaining the appropriate temperature conditions.

Properly processed darts should not be stretched or curved.

End of work

Self-control: the dart dimensions correspond to the specified ones; The stitching line is even, starts from the cut of the fabric, ends on the fold, at the top of the dart; tacks are made at the beginning and end of the stitching
Attach a sample to the album.