Construction of straight women's trousers size 50. Adjusting the trouser pattern

Pants are an integral part of a woman's wardrobe. Not surprising, because this is a very comfortable and practical thing that can be worn not only on special events or to the office, and create a huge number of images.

In today's article we will look at the pattern of trousers in classic style that will suit any figure. They will look equally elegant on both a young girl and an overweight one. elderly woman. Only the latter will need to cover her hips by wearing a long blouse or jacket on top.

As an example, the calculation and construction of a drawing of trousers will be made on a figure with the following:

Loose Fit Distribution (CO)

to measure SB = 1 cm

to measure ST = 1 cm

Constructing a pattern for the front half of classic women's trousers

1. Draw a vertical line with its vertex at point T, from which the following values are plotted down:

Waist line level: TT 1 = 1-1.5 cm (the value depends on the shape of the hips).

Seat depth: TY = BC measurement = 27 cm.

Pants length to the knee line: TK = measurement DtK = 58 cm.

Or YAK = 1/2 ДШ 1 – 1/10 ДШ 1, where

DS 1 = DsB – BC = 104 cm - 27 cm = 77 cm

Pants length: TN = DsB measurement – 2-3 cm (the amount by which in our example the trousers are shortened to the required length according to the model) = 104 cm – 2 cm = 102 cm.

How to determine the amount by which you need to shorten or lengthen your trousers, see.

Position of the hip line: YB = 1/3 TY = 1/3 27 cm = 9 cm.

Through points T 1, B, Z, K, H, draw horizontal lines to the right.

2. Width of the front half of the trousers at hip level: BB 1 = 1/2 (SB + CO) – 1 cm = 1/2 (50 cm + 1 cm) – 1 cm = 24.5 cm.

3. Draw a vertical through point B 1, at the intersection with the horizontal lines we get points T 2, I 1.

4. Step width of the front half of the trousers: I 1 I 2 = 1/10 (SB + CO) = 1/10 (50 cm + 1 cm) = 5.1 cm.

5. The position of the fold line (“arrow”) is determined by dividing the segment YaYa 2 in half, we get Ya 3, through which draw a vertical line from waist level to the bottom. At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.

6. Along the waist line from T 2, set a bevel amount equal to 0-1-1.5 cm to the left, depending on the value of the waist circumference (than less value OT, the larger the value set aside) or the shape of the trousers.

T 2 T 3 = 1 cm.

A bevel measuring 0 cm is taken for figures with a belly and for striped or checkered fabrics.

7.Constructing a bow line(middle line): connect B 1 and Z 2 with a straight line, divide the segment in half (point A); connect A and Z 1, divide in half (point A 1).

Draw a line for the bow of the trousers by connecting points T 3, B 1, A 1, Z 2.

8. To calculate the waist darts of trousers, find the difference between the SB and ST measurements, taking into account their freedom of fit. When calculating, you should also take into account the size of the bevel at the waist, if it was provided (in our example, it was 1 cm for the front and back halves of the trousers).

(SB + CO) – (ST + CO) - bevel = (50 cm + 1 cm) – (38 cm + 1 cm) – (1 cm + 1 cm) = 10 cm

10 cm / 2 = 5 cm - the sum of the waist darts of the trousers, which is divided into:

1/3 5 cm = 2 cm – waist dart of the front half of the trousers;
2/3 5 cm = 3 cm – waist dart of the back half of the trousers.

9. Width of the front half at waist level: T 3 T 4 = 1/2 (ST + CO) + 2 cm dart = 1/2 (38 cm + 1 cm) + 2 cm = 21.5 cm.

10. Extension side seam: T 4 T 5 = T 1 T = 1-1.5 cm.

11. Width of trousers at the bottom: H 1 H 2 = H 1 H 3 = 1/2 WN – 1 cm = 1/2 20 cm – 1 cm = 9 cm.

To make it easier to process the bottom of the trousers with a hem seam, from points H 2 and H 3, draw up perpendiculars 4-8 cm long, we get O and O 1.

12. Connect straight line B and O, at the intersection with the knee line we get a point from which we put 1 cm to the right. Point K 2 is obtained.

Level the width of the front half of the trousers along the knee line (from the fold to the right and left). To do this, from K 1 to the right, set aside the value of the segment K 2 K 1.

K 2 K 1 = K 1 K 3.

Note. The width of the trousers along the knee line is determined by the model; it can be equal to the width of the trousers at the bottom, or it can be more or less, but in any case it should be no less than the girth of the knee, taking into account the increase for a loose fit.

13.Side cut drawn up by connecting points T 5, B, I 4 with a convex smooth line, points I 4, K 2 - with a smooth concave line, which turns into a straight line, descending to point O.

14.Step cut the front half of the trousers is designed from I 2 to K 3 with a smooth concave curve and further to O 1 with a straight line.

15. The bottom line is drawn from point H 2 to H 3 in a smooth curve with a deflection in the middle. H 1 H 6 = 0.5 cm.

The bottom line can also be left horizontal: if the fabric is checkered or striped, for fabrics that are unruly when ironed.

16. The dart of the front half of classic trousers is built on the fold line with a 2 cm gap, 8-9 cm long. The sides of the dart are aligned along the larger side and create a beautiful waist line.

When sewing, the dart can be folded rather than sewn down.

Constructing a pattern for the back half of classic women's trousers

1. Extension at the level of the knee and bottom: K 4 K 2 = K 3 K 5 = 2 cm, H 4 H 2 = H 3 H 5 = 2 cm.

2.Constructing a seat line(middle line): from B 1 to the left, set aside 3 cm (constant value), we get B 2, from which upward restore the perpendicular B 2 B 3 = 1/10 (SB - 1 cm) = 1/10 49 cm = 4.9 cm.

Connect points I 1 and B 3, extend the straight line upward. Measure segment B 1 T 3 on the front of the trousers and set aside its value from point B 3 upwards.

B 3 T 6 = B 1 T 3.

3. Seat line deviation: T 6 T 7 = 1 cm.

4. Width at seat level: I 2 I 5 = I 1 I 2.

5. Auxiliary points: A 1 A 2 = Z 5 Z 6 = 1 cm.

6. The seat line is drawn through points T 7, B 3, A 2, Z 6.

7. From point B 3 to the hip line, make a notch: B 3 B 4 = (SB + CO) – BB 1 = (50 cm + 1 cm) – 24.5 cm = 26.5 cm.

8. To construct the waist line, find point T 8 at the intersection of two arcs:

the first from point B 4 with a radius equal to the segment BT 5;
the second from T 7 to the left with a radius equal to 1/2 (ST + CO) + 3 cm dart = 1/2 39 cm + 3 cm = 22.5 cm

Connect points T 7 and T 8 with a straight line.

9. From points H 4 and H 5, draw up perpendiculars with a length similar to that on the front half of the trousers (4-8 cm), we get O 2 and O 3.

10. Connect B 4, K 4, we get I 7.

Create a side cut through points T 8, B 4, I 7 with a convex smooth line, points I 7, K 4 - with a smooth concave line, which turns into a straight line, descending to point O 2.

11.Step cut form from I 6 to K 5 with a smooth concave curve and further to O 3 with a straight line.

12. The dart of the back half of classic trousers is built in the middle of the segment T 7 T 8, its opening is 3 cm, length 10-13 cm.

13. Draw a horizontal bottom line through points H 4, H 5.

To the lucky owners perfect figure incredibly lucky. Selecting a new wardrobe will not be a difficult task for them. But what about those who have non-standard proportions, and every trip to the store ends with endless fittings and leaving empty-handed. The ideal solution for such girls is a pattern women's trousers according to individual sizes. This task is not easy, but it can be solved.

How to take measurements

To create a pattern for women's trousers, the first thing you need to do is take measurements:

Waist circumference OT - the thinnest part of the lower back is measured.
Hip circumference OB - determined by the widest part of the buttocks, strictly horizontally.
Hip height WB - from the waist to the hip.
Seat height BC - measurement is taken in a sitting position, from the waist to the surface of the chair.
Knee height VK - the distance from the waist to the center of the knee.
Knee circumference OK - measured in a sitting position with the knee bent perpendicularly.
The length of the DB trousers is from the waist to the heel.

To ensure that the trousers fit freely, when cutting, it is recommended to add an additional 1 cm to the waist and an additional 2 cm to the hips.

First, let's look at basic construction patterns for women's trousers. This base can be easily modified into any model. It is best to draw the construction on graph paper, but you can take any sheet of suitable size.

Cutting the front part

Work should start from the upper right point A. From it, move down the hip height - point B, and the seat height - point C. From point B to the left, measure ¼ of the hip circumference and the increase on the hips - point B1, and 1/2 cm to the right - AT 2. From point C, lay a line parallel to B-B1, and to the left 1/20 of the hip circumference - C2. Connect points A, B2 and C2 with a smoothly flowing line. From point A, set aside a quarter of the waist circumference plus 3 cm - A1, from it up 1 cm - A2. Connect points A1, B1 and C1 using a pattern.

In the middle of the segment C1-C2, place point D, from it up to line A1-A, point E. From it down, measure the height of the knee - point D1, and the length of the trousers - F. From point D1 in both directions, draw a line equal to ¼ of a circle knee - points D2 and D3. Below, through point F, draw exactly the same segment. Now you can connect the side points to create a seam line.

To build a dart from point E, you need to put 1 cm on both sides and 10 cm down - E1, E2, E3. Connect the points with a triangle. Finally, connect points E1 and A2. The front pattern of women's trousers is complete.

Cutting the back part

The easiest way is to start directly on the finished drawing, using the same points, just highlight the lines in a different color. You need to start again from point A, from it to the left put half of the segment A-E plus 2 cm, you get point H. From it a perpendicular upward by 2 cm - H1. From point C, set aside 1/48 of the hip circumference - C3, which is connected to H1. To the right of C3, measure 1/10 of the hip circumference - C4. To the right, draw a line from point H, equal to 1/4 of the waist circumference minus 1 cm - H2, from it up 1 cm, H3, and connect H3 to H1.

Call the intersection point of segments B and H1-C3 L. From it to the left draw a line equal to ¼ of the hip circumference - L1. Using a pattern, connect H3-L1 and L-C4. Next, we draw seam lines, marking 1.5 cm from the bottom points in different directions. To make a groove on the segment H1-H3, place a point M in the middle, set aside 1 cm to the sides and a perpendicular 14 cm long, connect it into a triangle. The pattern for women's trousers is ready.

How to insert an elastic band

Trousers with a rigid belt look great, but lovers are more free style give their preference to elastic bands. Such clothes fit more comfortably and adapt better to your body shape. How does the pattern change? There are many different models of women's trousers with elastic, but the construction of the drawstring is the same for all. You will only have to work on the top part of the drawing.

First of all, you need to erase the darts; they won’t be needed here. Draw a line straight up from the hip, the width of the waist will be larger than the real one. Add 2cm of elastic at the top and 2cm for the seams. If the pattern of women's trousers with an elastic band suggests a low waist, you first need to measure the height from the hip, and build a drawstring from this line. Pants with elastic do not fall down and do not cause additional discomfort; they are especially convenient for office work or a long feast. More like this loose fit will hide minor figure imperfections at the waist and hips.

Bananas are back

The “bananas” that returned from the eighties are gaining more and more momentum. The uniqueness of this pattern of women's trousers is the narrowed legs and wide hip part. They are also easy to cut on a standard base. As with skinny pants, the hem should be shortened to the ankle and tapered a little, only the bananas should be a little looser in this part. On the contrary, we spread the hips 5-7 cm in each direction. We increase the waist line by 3 cm, remove the darts, and instead of them there will be folds. A wide sewn belt would look logical.

A pattern of women's trousers in the style of the eighties will delight any fashionista. But for curvy girls it is better not to choose bananas, but for thin girls, on the contrary, they will help add the necessary volume to the hips.

Skinny pants

Skinny in last years- a popular summer trouser pattern. This model has already conquered many women’s hearts. And men are crazy about slender ladies' legs in tight trousers. For sewing skinnies, only elastic stretch is suitable, but the color and pattern leave room for inspiration and style.

To adapt patterns, you need to take two additional measurements:

knee girth with straight leg;
ankle circumference.

The length of the trousers will also have to be changed; this style only reaches the ankle. When constructing, you will have to shorten the length and reduce the width to fit the new measurements in the knee area and at the bottom. Connect new dots. You can do it simpler: in the knee area, reduce it on both sides by 1.5 cm, and on the bottom - by 4 cm. But in this case, there is a risk that the size will not fit. This stunning women's trousers pattern is ready to go.

Color and fabric

Summer gives a lot rich colors and bright moods, and this is fully reflected in the summer wardrobe. The warm season allows you to experiment a lot with the choice of fabrics. Jersey, denim, cotton and linen, light chiffon and delicate silk - you can use anything.

Based on the pattern for "bananas" you can sew light summer trousers in oriental style from thin flowing fabrics. Choose for this bright colors, complex ornaments or a classic oriental pattern in the colors of paprika and curry.

Skinny trousers in warm pastel colors are suitable for work and school, and bright marker shades will make you stand out from the city crowd.

Patterning women's trousers is not an easy task, you will have to put in a lot of patience, but the result will exceed all expectations. Custom-made clothing cannot be compared to store-bought items, and the sewing process itself is a lot of fun. The happy owner of unique trousers can safely go for a walk without fear of meeting a competitor.

IN modern world fashion does not stand still and the main trend today is women's skinny trousers that fit the figure. Every owner of the fair sex with a good figure has already purchased this item, but ladies with other parameters can turn to a tailor to tailor them.

To sew tapered women's trousers, we need a pattern. With her help, we can sew them to any size and experiment with their details, thereby hiding flaws or emphasizing the client’s advantages. The choice of fabric also plays an important role, because in order for this item to fit well, the fabric must stretch. That's why You need to choose stretch material.

How to correctly take measurements for a pattern of women's trousers with the perfect fit

In order to start cutting, you need to take measurements. We will need not only basic measurements, but also additional ones.

To construct a drawing of women's skinny trousers, we will need the following measurements:

Fri (waist semi-circumference);
PB (hip semi-circumference) is measured at the protruding points of the buttocks;
Dkol (height from waist to knee);
Chipboard (pants length);
Sun (seat height) is measured in a sitting position from the waist;
Lunch (hip circumference);
Ok (knee circumference);
He (calf circumference);
Shn (bottom width).

On a note!

When making a drawing, it is recommended to add 1 cm to the waist and 2 cm to the hips when cutting.

What is special about the pattern of tight women's trousers?

To construct this drawing, take the basic pattern of classic trousers. And when cutting tapered ones, the tailor himself corrects the necessary measurements directly on the drawing.

Tapered ones differ from classic ones in that:

the width at the bottom is smaller;
the width at the knee is greater than at the bottom;
The length is mostly ankle length or higher.

Take these features into account when creating a pattern.

Step-by-step construction of a pattern for tapered women's trousers

To make a drawing of women's tapered trousers, we will need a ready-made basic pattern of classic trousers. And using it we will customize the pattern for sewing tapered ones.

We set aside all the necessary measurements for the length of the trousers.

On the basic pattern of classic trousers we prepared, we set aside the length of the narrow trousers from the waist down according to these measurements and add an additional 2 cm. We will need these extra centimeters for hems when sewing.

To spend ironing line you need to divide the lines of the hips, knees and legs in half, and draw it through their centers along the entire drawing.

We create a pattern according to the width of the trousers

Now let's draw our Width measurements on pattern. We calculate:

½ hip circumference from our measurements;
½ knee circumference;
½ leg circumference.

Let's draw additional lines.

From the seat height line downwards, set aside 8-9 cm and draw a horizontal line - hip circumference.

Important!

The knee circumference will match the knee line on the dress pants pattern.

We set aside about 15 cm from the knee line down - this will be the leg circumference line.
For the front part of the drawing, subtract 1 cm from ½ the circumference of the hips and from the point of intersection of the hip line with the ironing line in the center, set aside the segments obtained from the calculations in both directions.
We do the same with measurements of knee circumference and leg circumference. We lay the resulting segments along the knee line and along the leg line at the points where they intersect with the ironing line.
We shorten the seat line by 7 mm and raise it by 1 cm. And then we connect all our marks on the pattern, which we marked according to the measurements on the pattern for skinny trousers.

The front part of the drawing is ready.

Now let's move on to the back.

We take the data from our measurements and calculate ½ the volume of the thigh and add 1 cm, then along the thigh girth line from the central point of its intersection with the ironing line in both directions we set aside these segments. We do the same calculations with measurements of the knee girth and leg girth and indicate them on the drawing.

In the drawing of the back, always add 1 cm to the hip line on both sides, It’s better to remove the excess later at the fitting. This is done so that there is a reserve.

Tips for a novice seamstress on how to create the correct pattern for tapered women's trousers

pay attention to important aspects building a pattern:

To get the pattern right, you need to take accurate measurements using a centimeter.
To sew tight pants, you will need measurements not only those taken for dress pants, but also additional ones. After all, everyone’s figure is different and additional measurements will help to tailor the pattern for a given client to his figure.
When cutting, you should have the following parts: two front and two back halves; four parts for the front of the belt and two for the back; two parts for sewing a pocket and five strips for belt loops.

Be careful, follow the algorithm exactly, and you will get tapered trousers that are ideal for your personal parameters.

Trousers are one of the most comfortable and versatile wardrobe items not only for men, but also for women. Depending on their color, fabric, cut, style, they are worn to work in the office, to a club, relax in them at home and outdoors, trousers can also become part of a festive look.

Comfortable and beautiful trousers can be chosen for any type of figure: somewhere you need to add centimeters, shorten them somewhere, maybe add pockets or stitching. And in tailoring the main role is played by the pattern. By “playing” with the basic pattern, experimenting with details, fabrics and colors, you will definitely be able to find your model, which will only emphasize all the advantages of the figure, hiding flaws.

Of course, you can buy good trousers. But it’s so rare to find something truly unique in stores, and mass production is focused on standard figures, while there are a great many options of different proportions. And then sewing comes to the rescue, helping both to make an individual cut to suit your figure, and to complement the model with small details that help reveal your individuality.

Dimensions

Both for choosing women's trousers and for tailoring, it is important to know your measurements and, above all, the waist circumference (WT) and hip circumference (HI).

Pants size 42: FROM 66 cm, ABOUT 92 cm;
Pants size 44: FROM 70 cm, ABOUT 96 cm;
Pants size 46: FROM 74 cm, ABOUT 100 cm;
Pants size 48: FROM 78 cm, ABOUT 104 cm;
Pants size 50: FROM 82 cm, ABOUT 108 cm;
Pants size 52: FROM 86 cm, ABOUT 112 cm;
Pants size 54: FROM 90 cm, ABOUT 116 cm;
Pants size 56: FROM 94 cm; ABOUT 120 cm.

You also need to take measurements such as:

Front and side length, first and second step length, knee “waist” length, hip circumference (not to be confused with hip circumference), seat height, bottom width.

Pattern of women's trousers

A correctly constructed pattern provides more than half the success in sewing any product. We add for you various variations of trouser patterns, which you can download and create patterns with your own sizes.

Pattern of classic women's trousers. It is by modifying it that you can get other styles.

Breeches are still in fashion. Therefore, a pattern for such a trouser model will definitely come in handy.

And also a pattern sweatpants, because sports and healthy image life is always at the peak of popularity.

Skinny pants are also versatile. They are suitable for both casual and formal wear. Adding a pattern for skinny trousers.

Fabric selection

First you need to decide what kind of trousers you want to sew. If this wide pants, bloomers, then, as a rule, they do not have problems with fit and almost any fabric is suitable for them. But if your choice fell on trousers that are quite narrow at the top, then you need to take a responsible approach to the selection of fabric.

In this case, light fabrics such as raincoats, corduroy, denim synthetics, nylon, fabric with metanit, etc. will not be suitable. However, they are suitable for sewing not narrow trousers, but wide ones, such as bananas, trousers with elastic, with increases at the waist and on the hips, with all sorts of folds and tucks.

Product length and width

If you decide to create a pattern from scratch, then before you build it, you should pay attention to some of the nuances of different models.

Classic trousers:

The width of the trousers at the bottom is determined by the length of the foot.
The width of the trousers at the knee is equal to the width at the bottom.
The length of these trousers is up to the middle of the heel.
Accordingly, we try them on only in the shoes with which we will wear them.

Tapered trousers:

At the bottom their width is smaller than in classic ones.
Naturally, there is more at the knee than at the bottom.
Try on trousers barefoot, the length should be to the floor.

Wide flared trousers:

They are wider at the bottom than the classic ones.
Smaller at the knee than at the bottom.
In shoes, the length of such trousers is 1 - 1.5 cm from the floor.

A selection of useful videos

In this article we will teach you how to build a basic drawing, on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of styles of women's trousers.

For example, we will use size 48. Using the same principle, you can take measurements of your figure and create an individual trouser pattern.

To construct the drawing we will need the following measurements:

W = 38 cm - Waist semi-circumference

POb = 52 cm - Semi-circle of hips

Dbrk = 56 cm - Pants length to the knee

Dbr = 100 cm - Side length of trousers

W = 24 cm - Width of trousers at the bottom (set according to style, usually in the range of 24-28 cm)

And control measures: knee circumference, ankle circumference and thigh circumference.

Don't forget about the loose fitting allowances:

Fri - increase along the waistline (with a tight fit - 0, medium fit -1, looser - 2)

PB - increase along the hips (0.5-1.5 tight, 1.5-3 - medium fit, 3-4 - loose)

For our trousers, we will take the following increment values:

Now let's start building a basic drawing of the basis of women's trousers.

Front half of trousers

Creating a pattern for women's trousers - step 1

Seat height and hip line

In the upper left corner we place point T1.
Let's calculate the seat height: T1Y1= 0.5x(Pob+Pb) +1 cm = 0.5 x (52+ 1)+1 = 27.5 cm.
From point T1 down a vertical line we plot the height of the seat and place point H1.
From points T1 and R1, left and right, draw horizontal lines
To calculate where the hip line will be, divide the T1Y1 segment into 3 parts, denoting the lower division point with the letter B1. R1B1 = (T1R1) / 3 = 27.5 / 3 = 9.1 cm.
Through point B1 we draw a horizontal line to the left and right.

Creating a pattern for women's trousers - step 2

The next step in creating a pattern is to calculate the width along the hip line. The calculation is made using the following formula:

B1B2 = 0.5 x (Pob+ Pb) - 1 = 0.5 x (52+ 1) - 1 = 26.5 - 1 = 25.5 cm.

We put the resulting value from point B1 to the right horizontally, and place point B2. We draw a vertical line through point B2, and denote the intersection points as T2 and R2.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 3

From point Y2 to the right along the step line, we lay off a segment equal to 1:10 of the half-hip measurement (HH) with an increase for a loose fit along the hip line (Hb) and set point Y3.

R2Y3 = (Pob + Pb): 10 = (52 + 1): 10 = 5.3 cm

To determine where the fold line will be, divide the segment R1R3 in half and put the point R. That is, R1R = R1R3: 2 = 15.4.

Through point I we will draw a vertical line up and down, and the points of intersection with auxiliary horizontal lines we will designate as T and B.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 4

Now let's mark on our pattern knee line and trouser hem line.

We get the knee line by setting aside the measurement value Dbrk = 56 cm along the fold line from point T down, put point K here and draw a horizontal line through it to the left and right.

We get the bottom line by setting aside the measurement value Dbr = 100 cm along the fold line from point T down, put point H here and draw a horizontal line through it to the left and right.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 5

Determine and mark on the pattern width of trousers along the hemline and along the knee line.

The width of the bottom of the front half of the trousers is equal to the width of the bottom of the trousers in finished form minus 2 cm. Lay out segments equal to half the width of the front half along the bottom line on both sides of point H and place points H1 and H2.

НН1 = НН2 = (Шн - 2) : 2 = (24 - 2) : 2 = 11 cm.

The width of the trousers along the knee line is equal to the width of the trousers along the bottom line or 2-4 cm less (according to the style). We put half of this value on the knee line from point K in both directions, and put points K1 and K2.

In our case, we assume that KK1 = KK2 = HH1 = 11 cm.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 6

We draw a step cut line on our pattern.

To do this, we use the auxiliary point R21, which we place in the middle of the segment R2R3.

We connect points K2 and H2 with a straight line.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 7

We draw the line of the middle cut of the front half of women's trousers.

To do this, from point T2 to the left horizontally we lay off a segment T2T0 equal to 1 cm. The value T2T0 = 0 is also possible; it is used for figures with a convex belly, or when trousers are sewn from checkered or striped fabric (but not necessary).

We connect points T0 and B2 with a straight line. We connect points B2 and R3 with an auxiliary straight line, divide the segment in half and place point D.

We connect point D with a straight line to point J2.

We divide the segment DY2 in half, and denote the division point as D1. We draw the “bow” line through points T0, B2, D1, R3 with a smooth line.

The width at the waist line is 0.5 x (Pt + Pt) + two darts. The width of each dart is 2 cm. Take the minimum allowance along the waist line, i.e. 0.

Thus, T0T4 = 0.5x(38 + 0) + 2x2 = 23 cm.

There may be one or two darts at the waistline. In this pattern we use the option with two darts.

Place the first dart along the fold line, set aside 1 cm from point T to the left and right. The length of the dart is 8-10 cm. The sides of the dart are straight lines.

We will place the second dart in the middle of the segment from point T4 to the opening of the 1st dart. From the division point we lower a perpendicular 8-10 cm long - this is the center line of the dart, from it we put 1 cm to the left and right and design the sides of the dart, as in the case of the first one.

We draw a side cut line. We connect points H1 and K1 of the auxiliary line, divide it in half, and from the division point to the right along the perpendicular we set aside a deflection of 0.5-0.7 cm.

We build a side cut line through points T4, B1, R1, the deflection point, K1, H1.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 10

We draw the bottom line of the front half of the trousers with a straight line H1H2.

The pattern for the front half of women's trousers is ready.

Back half of trousers

We draw the bottom line of the back half of the trousers.

From points H1 and H2 to the left and right we set aside 2 cm and put points: on the left - H3 and on the right - H4. Thus, H1H3 = H2H4 = 2cm.

From point H we lay down 0.5 cm vertically and place point H5. We connect points H3, H5, H4 with straight lines. The bottom line is decorated.

We draw up the knee line. From points K1 and K2 we set aside 2 cm to the left and right and place points K3 and K4. Thus, K1K3 = K2K4 = 2 cm.

We connect points K3 and K4 with straight lines to points H3 and H4.

We draw a step cutting line.

R2R5 = 0.2 x (Pob + Pb) + 1 = 0.2 x (52+ 1) + 1 = 11.6 cm.

From point Y2 to the right horizontally we put 11.6 cm and put point Y5.

Connect points R5 and K4 with a straight line.

We divide the segment Y5K4 in half, and at the point of division along the perpendicular to the left we set aside 0.5-0.7 cm - this will be an auxiliary deflection point.

From point R3 downwards draw a perpendicular 1 cm long and place point R31. R3 R31 = 1 cm.

From point Y2 through point Y31 draw a straight line to the right until it intersects with the auxiliary line. Let us denote the intersection point as R51.

We draw a smooth concave line through points R51, the deflection point and point K4, and a straight line through points K4, H4. We get a step cut line.

We draw a line for the middle cut. To do this, put the auxiliary point D2 in the middle of the segment D1R2, that is, D1D2 = D1R2: 2.

From point T to the right we set aside 1/3 of the length of the segment TT2 and put point T21, that is, TT21=TT2: 3.

From point T21 we draw a vertical line up, set aside 4.3 cm on it and place point T5.

T21T5 = 0.1 x (Pob + Pb) - 1 = 0.1 x (52 + 1) - 1 = 4.3 cm.

We connect points T5 and R2 with a straight line, and denote the point of intersection with the hip line as B3.

We connect points T5, B3 with a straight line, points D2, Ya31, Ya51 - with a slightly concave line.

Shape the hip line.

B3B4 = (Pob + Pb) - B1B2, where B1B2 = 25.5 cm (already calculated for constructing the front half of the trousers). That is, B3B4 = (52 + 1) - 25.5 = 27.5 cm.

From point B3 to the left horizontally we set aside 27.5 cm and place point B4.

Let's shape the waist line.

Т5Т7 = 0.5 x (POt + Pt) + 2 darts. We take the opening width of each dart to be 2 cm.

That is, T5T7 = 0.5 x (38 + 0) + 2 x 2 = 23 cm.

From point T5 to the left, make a notch on the waist line with a radius of 23 cm and place point T7. We connect points T7 and T5 with a straight line.

We make darts.

We divide the segment T5T7 into three equal parts, from the division points we lower perpendiculars 8-10 cm long - these will be the axial lines of the darts, from which we put 1 cm to the left and right. We draw up the sides of the darts with straight lines.

We draw a side cut line.

To make the side cut line smooth, divide the distance B4K3 into three equal parts.

From the dividing points along the perpendicular we will set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm. At the upper dividing point to the left, and at the lower point to the right.

The pattern for the back half of women's trousers is ready.