How to sew a corset with cups. Sewing a corset

Corset is an indispensable item of women's wardrobe. It will help to hide the flaws of the figure and "pull" it, aligning the silhouette; emphasize feminine forms and add charm and irresistibility to the image. This corset model is simplified.

Depending on which fabric you choose for it, it can be worn with both daytime and evening wear.

Materials:

• fabric for the front of the corset
• lining fabric
• dublerin
• corset bones (20 pieces)
• lace
• fittings for lacing (grommet, block, haulage)
• fittings machine, fabric hole punch

Patterns and fabric

The most important thing when sewing a corset is choosing and drawing up a pattern. First, decide what shape you want: how much the corset should tighten the waist and whether it should at all; what is the shape of the top (more like the top of a dress or like a bra); in a modern style or such as were worn in past centuries.

Here we do not describe the construction of a corset pattern.

Having made the patterns (if you are using them for the first time, and generally for the first time you are sewing a corset), do not be too lazy to sew a trial version of a corset from the cheapest fabric. At this step, you can accurately adjust the patterns for your figure and correct all the shortcomings. Insert the underwire into the key seams to gauge how well the corset fits.

Choose the main fabric for the corset so that it is not too delicate, but rather tightly woven. Ideally, take a special lining fabric - koutil (cotton for corsets). But any non-stretch cotton fabric will do, the denser the better.

Most clothing stores sell cheap plastic bones. An example of these in the photo: on the left (plastic bone in the bone case) and in the center (crossbar). Don't use such bones. They twist. Moreover, for example, when you sit down, such bones are bent and a trace of the fold remains. As a result, the shape of the corset is deformed.

For the corset, use steel and spiral bones (pictured on the right). Steel seams are inserted into side or back seams where there are no curved lines. Spiral bones are used for curved seams as they bend to match the seam line. But they can be inserted into all seams, as in this corset.

The underwire should be two centimeters shorter than the seam length. Otherwise, their ends will break through the fabric in a fairly short time.

Cut fabrics

Fold the fabric in half with the right side in, arrange the patterns and trace them around the outline. The seam allowance needs to be made quite large, about 1.5 centimeters. The allowances will serve as additional reinforcement for the bones. Trace all details on the lining fabric as well. Cut out. If you have a rotary knife, you can lay the pattern on the fabric and immediately cut along its contour. Remember to work with the rotary knife on a special surface (rotary knife mat).

Cut out two pieces from the doublerin for the stripes on the back of the corset where the lacing will be. Glue these dublenine pieces to the corresponding lining pieces. If there is no doublerin, you can use a thick fabric. Cut out two parts from it according to the pattern (in the photo with the patterns, the last detail on the right). Smooth the parts with an iron if necessary.

Stitching parts

Sew the main fabric pieces together at the side seams, and also the lining fabric.

Cut the seams at the waist and bust as needed to avoid wrinkling the curves. Unfold the ends of the seams in different directions and iron with an iron.

Sewing the body of the corset with lining

Fold the body and lining corset right sides inward. Sew one side edge first, unfold and press the seam to one side on the wrong side. Then sew the other side edge and iron the seam. Turn the corset out, iron the seams again using a thin cloth or gauze, placing it over the seams to be ironed on the corset.

Bone channels

The corset needs vertical stitching on both sides of each seam. Stitch over the base fabric. It is important that the seams on the base fabric and the lining fabric are approximately the same level (the more precise the better).

This corset has two underwires in each seam and one in the seams with lacing. It is best to start stitching from the center of the seam and then to the side of it. Thus, if the seams on the front and lining parts of the corset do not match exactly, the channels for the bones will be more even than if you start to sew from one side to the other.

Connect the seam lines of the front and back side so that they are at the same level as possible. For convenience, you can sweep the seam line with a thread. Slowly sew the stitch as close to the seam line as possible. Then sew a line some distance from the first.

You also need to sew a second channel on the other side of the seam. In order for the bone to sit not very tightly, you need to make a channel wide enough for its free location. Make the width about one and a half to two times the width of the bone. Here's what you should get.

After you finish sewing the channels, line up the top and bottom edges of the corset by cutting off any protruding threads and any irregularities.

Cutting parts for processing corset edges

Decide how you want to finish the edges of the corset. They can be trimmed with piping available at the store. If you want a straight edge, without edging, then at the step when the front part was sewn with a lining, you can stitch along the top edge of the corset and along the bottom (leaving an unstitched place to turn it out). Then on the face, lay the lines close to the edge, at the same time stitching the open space at the bottom.

Here the edges of the corset are finished with lining fabric. For edging the top, lay the fabric flat on a work surface. Its width should be slightly larger than the overall width of the corset.

Place the corset on the fabric and straighten. Circle and cut the fabric along the top of the corset and 4 centimeters from the sides.

Remove the corset. At small distances, mark points (4 centimeters down) from the top edge. Align the points in a line and cut along this line.

Also cut out the trim for the bottom of the corset, making sure the bottom is as flat as possible on the fabric.

Sewing straps

Decide how wide you want the straps. This number must be multiplied by 4. Cut two strips of the desired width and sufficient length. Here the straps are 1 cm wide. This means that you need to cut strips 4 centimeters wide. Fold the edges of the strips inside out towards the center so that they touch, iron. Then fold the strips in half and sew on both sides.

Processing the upper edge of the corset

Pin the ends of the straps to the top of the corset on the front side as shown.

Place the piping on the front of the corset, wrong side up. Run a stitch across the top of the corset close to the hem. Unscrew the piping and sew along the edge as shown.

Wrap the hem inside out and iron with an iron. It is desirable to process its edge with an overlock (zigzag).

Seed insertion

Each channel has four layers of fabric (main fabric and lining fabric plus seams). The underwire can be inserted in the middle, between the top two main fabric layers and the bottom two lining fabric layers. However, if you are using a very heavy lining fabric and a thin denim, you can insert the underwire between two layers of durable lining fabric. Insert the bones into all channels.

Processing the lower edge of the corset

Bring the piping to the bottom edge of the corset with the right sides inward and sew along the edge. Make sure that the bones are not close to the hem, otherwise the needle could break if it hits the end of the bone. Repeat as you did for the top edge of the corset.

From inside out, hand sew on the edges of the bottom and top piping.

Lacing

Mark the location of the holes in approximately 2.5 cm increments.

Punch or cut holes.

Install the eyelets into the holes.

Corsages are sometimes confused with corsets. The main difference is in the purpose and application and, as a result, in the manufacture.

CORSET designed to give the figure a special shape. The bodice shapes the figure, pulling together the lower part of the chest and abdomen, thereby raising the chest, makes the figure fit, slim, feminine.

CORSAGEdoes not tighten the figure, but fits it tightly. The bodice can be either a separate item of clothing or a part of it. Maybe a dress with a bodice and even a jumpsuit with a bodice.
If we are not so categorical and deviate from the prevailing norms and conventions, we will find that modern dressmakers offer us a kind of symbiosis of these two types of clothing. The end consumer benefits from this, that is, you and I. And that's great!

Ready bodice pattern suitable for girls from 42 to 50 sizes. More precise parameters are indicated below and on the pattern itself.

A bodice made of fabric with elastic properties looks very good. This is not a condition or even a recommendation, since a wide variety of fabrics can be used for this bodice: from leather to lace. Based on this, choose the location of the fastener, the presence or absence of bones and straps.

The zipper (detachable) can be positioned both in the side seam and in the middle seam of the back, as well as in the middle of the front.

Ready bodice pattern
Bust: 84 88 92 96 100
Waist: 66 70 74 78 82

To prepare the pattern for work, click on the diagram at the end of the article and bodice pattern will open in a new window.

Print the pattern sheets on the printer and connect them in accordance with the diagram. Determine the size you need and cut.

Be sure to check the scale. On the printed sheet with the 10x10 cm square shown, the sides of 10 cm should correspond exactly to 10 centimeters.

You determine the width of the straps yourself, specify the length at the fitting.

NOTE: The bodice can be sewn with or without lining. The lining details are cut according to the main details.

Before cutting, check your measurements for compliance with the pattern parameters.

If necessary, correct the pattern and only after that proceed to cutting, not forgetting to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where refinements are possible when fitting. If you are going to put the bones, take this into account when cutting, give additional allowances.

Having swept the details, try on the bodice, make all the necessary corrections and start sewing.

You will succeed!

Be creative and enjoy the results of your creativity.
Leave your wishes and suggestions in the comments. We will definitely consider them.

If you have any difficulties with printing patterns, write and we will post a master class with the details of this process.

To view and print the pattern, click on the picture

An underwire corset is the perfect outfit for women. That is why we want to give several arguments in favor of why it is necessary to sew a corset. The underwire corset needs to be sewn, because it allows you to make the waist thinner, secondly, the underwire corset needs to be sewn, as it helps to emphasize the chest, and thirdly, it is quite easy to sew it! Don't believe me? Read our tips!

See also:

When sewing corsets, bones are used to stiffen the bodice and avoid unnecessary folds.

The bones come in different lengths and stiffnesses, as a rule, they are made of flexible metal or plastic.

If you decide to sew a corset with underwire, allowances for the seams on the details of the bodice must be made 1.5 cm (Fig. 1. How to sew a corset: marking the allowances).

Fig. 1. How to sew a corset: marking allowances

How to sew a corset with underwire: a description of work

Sweep and grind the side and embossed seams of the corset. Taking the allowances together, at a distance of 0.7 cm from the connecting line, lay an additional line - you get a drawstring under the bone.

Fig. 2. How to sew a corset: we put a drawstring under the bone

If the width of the bone is more than 0.5 cm, then the line should be laid at the width of the drawstring + 0.2 cm.

If the model has a cut-off corset along the waist line, lay a horizontal line 0.5 cm above the waist line (so that the bone does not fall out during fitting).

Insert a bone into the resulting drawstring. The length of the bone should be 0.5-1 cm shorter than the drawstring (Fig. 3. How to sew the corset: insert the bone into the drawstring).

Fig. 3. How to sew a corset: we put a bone in the drawstring

Restitch the drawstring along the top of the corset with a horizontal seam. Lay the drawstring and bone allowances on one side. Then sew the product as usual.

Corset pattern

"Which pattern should I use?" is the most frequently asked question. First, find the model that you want to sew - a photo or drawing, in which all the details will be visible both from the front and from the back. Look carefully at the photo - the seams of the reliefs, the fastener, the cutout and the bottom line will be visible on it. A photo or sketch will greatly facilitate the work when applying all the model lines to the pattern.

The base pattern is built according to the measurements taken from the figure, according to the method to which we are accustomed, and the products made according to it suit us. When taking measurements to build the base, put on the bra that you like the cup shape the most, and it is in it that you take measurements and try on the corset. Do not forget to take the measurement from the waist to the armhole - this is a control measurement, and after constructing the pattern, compare it with the pattern obtained in the drawing - they should match.
The technique of building a corset according to "Müller", which was given by the magazine "Atelier", has proven itself well. But it is not suitable for all figures - the fit depends on the type of figure and posture. This cut is close to the historical one - it flattens the bust, which is fixable - you can make a more convex shape on the pattern by adding 0.5 cm to each side of the relief passing through the breast. For informational purposes, you can download the zip-archive of the pattern construction.
On the site, from the section "Creating clothes" - subsection "Corsetry" you can download books with the construction of patterns for various types of corsets.
A good pattern for a corset with cups in the book "Il Modellismo", which can be downloaded for informational purposes in the article "Building the base".

You have built your foundation. On the pattern of the base, taking into account the increase in CO, which were given above, draw the lines of the corset relief, top and bottom. It is important to draw all the lines visually beautifully. By "incorrect distribution of relief lines" experts mean that when modeling the corset, the relief lines were drawn so that in the finished product, they visually disfigure the figure.
For example, the front reliefs, which it is desirable to pass through the center of the chest, are sometimes offset a few centimeters to the side. If, closer to the center - a "narrow" breast is obtained, if to the sides from the center - then "flared" breasts are obtained. Similarly, with the upper points of the reliefs, if they are strongly reduced to the center, then visually they increase the chest, but the figure itself is not in its best form.

The second important point concerns the upper line of the corset - the bust in the armpit area should not "fall out" of the corset. That is, lowering the armhole on the corset should not exceed 1.5 cm with a moderate cut on the back. But the lowering can be even greater if the corset has a strongly open back. In this case, you will need to think about straps.

It is not advisable to make the length of the corset more than 10-14 cm below the RT - it will be inconvenient to sit in it, this value depends on the individual characteristics of the figure and is specified during fitting. The bottom line is formed in different ways. Usually, the bottom line has a curly shape. The straight line of the corset bottom visually enlarges the hips.
Be sure to make adjustments to the corset pattern according to the articles "Correction of a lagging neckline" and "Additional darts" available on the site.

The question of creating a corset pattern and adjusting it is covered in great detail in the book "Patternmaking For Fashion Design". Pages of the book, with modeling schemes and adjustments, can be downloaded in one file in a zip archive. Experts strongly advise using the recommendations in this book.

Fashion designer

Hello dear readers! Today our lesson is about corset. The interest in the corset is very great, because it is he who helps us, women, to model the figure in the most advantageous way. By learning how to create this piece of wardrobe, you can look stunning in any situation! So, let's begin.

To begin with, I would like to make a reservation - today we will not talk about a corset, in its classical sense, but about a lightweight, so to speak, corset - oh corsage... The thing is that the corset, in the modern world, does not have that wide popularity as before. A corset is a product that shapes a figure, it consists of many parts, is made on special equipment, using special corset accessories (usually metal bones, busts, planes for eyelets, has lacing, with which the pulling process takes place), which makes the manufacturing process in a non-professional workshop is almost impossible. Pulling at the waist, in a corset. can be very large - 10-20 cm, which, of course, cannot be achieved in corsages.

It is difficult to use a classic corset in everyday life, so let us turn our attention to a corset that meets all aesthetic requirements and, moreover, is more comfortable. The differences between corset and bodice are now clear. But !, in ordinary life, corsage everyone calls a corset, it so happened in a non-professional environment, so we decided to call our lesson Corset pattern, to make it easier for the reader to find this material. If you want to delve deeper into the topic of corsets, perhaps we will create another lesson where we will tell you about the history of the corset and give options for building, this is really a very interesting topic! So, let's begin.

We will construct a corset (corsage) pattern on the basis of an adjacent product. A corset (bodice) implies a strong fit, and in some cases a tightening, therefore, we will set the increments to the girths to the minimum (negative values \u200b\u200bof the increments are also possible). Negative increases are used mainly to the waist circumference and the third chest circumference (because it is in these places that the figure can be pulled a little without creating much discomfort). Measurements from the figure should be removed with a tight-fitting measuring tape, not tightening, but not too loose. It is required to take a measurement of the Bust girth on linen, the height of the chest and the volume in the finished product depend on it.

Increase to OT \u003d from 0 to -2 cm

Exhaust gas gain \u003d 2 to 0 cm

Increase to OT \u003d -3 to -6 cm

Increase in exhaust gas \u003d from -1 to -3 cm

We remember that the increments are given to half measurements, because the construction takes place on half of the figure and cutting is meant, also, on the fabric folded twice.

Corset pattern

Drawing grid

Let's determine the length of the base pattern, by the way, you can use it to create a tight-fitting dress or, for example, a bottom cover for a dress (combination). We postpone this value vertically, from top to bottom - AH, placing a segment at the left edge of the graph paper (For example: AH \u003d 110).

Draw perpendicular lines through A and H to the right.

From point A to the right, smooth out the size of the half-girth of the chest with an increase in freedom (For example: AB \u003d POG + Pr \u003d 48 + 2 \u003d 50cm.). We put point B.

Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the lower line and set the point H1.

From point A downwards we set aside the segment AT, the length of which is equal to the length of the back to the waist plus an increase (For example: AT \u003d Dts + Pr \u003d 38 + 0.5 \u003d 38.5 cm) and put point T.

From T to the right we draw a line to the segment BH1, at the intersection we put the point T1. Section TT1 is the waist level.

Then, from T downwards, we postpone the height of the hip line. The size of this segment is equal to half the length of the back (For example: TB \u003d ½ * TPA \u003d ½ * 38 \u003d 19 cm). We put point B.

From B to the right we draw a line of the hips, the intersection with the segment BH1 is denoted by B1.

Back neck construction

Initially, from point A to the right, along segment AB, we postpone the width of the back plus an increase (For example, AA1 \u003d SHS + Pr \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm). Set point A1.

From point A1 to the right, set aside the segment A1A2 equal to 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest (For example: A1A2 \u003d 1/4 * POG \u003d 1/4 * 48 \u003d 12.0). We put point A2.

Now we draw lines of arbitrary length from A1 and A2 down. Segments A1 and A2 - are the boundaries of the width of the armhole.

Then, from point A to the right, we postpone a segment AA3 equal to 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus an increase (For example, AA3 \u003d 1/3 * NSP + Pr \u003d 1/3 * 18 + 0.5 \u003d 6.5 cm). We put point A3. AA3 stands for the width of the back neckline.

From point A3 upwards, draw a segment A3A4 equal to 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck plus an increase. (For example A3A4 \u003d 1/10 * POSH + Pr \u003d 1/10 * 18 + 0.8 \u003d 2.6 cm). We put point A4. A3A4 - the height of the back neck.

In order to draw the neckline beautifully, the angle АА3А4 at point А3 should be divided in half and draw a line. On this line, set aside the size of the auxiliary segment A3A5 (For example, A3A5 \u003d 1/10 * 1POSH - 0.3 \u003d 1/10 * 18-0.3 \u003d 1.5 cm) and set point A5. We connect the points A4, A5 and A obtained as a result of construction with a smooth curve - this is the line of the neck of the back!

Construction of the shoulder back section

Initially, from A1 we put down the segment A1P and set point P. (The size of the segment A1P depends on the shape of the shoulders - for normal A1P \u003d 2.5 cm, for sloping A1P \u003d 3.5 cm, for high A1P \u003d 1.5 cm).

We connect points A4 and P with a straight line. Then from A4 we set aside the segment A4P1 equal to the length of the shoulder plus an increase equal to the size of the tuck solution (For example A4P1 \u003d DP + 2 \u003d 13.5 + 2 \u003d 15.5 cm) and set point P1.

On the resulting line A4P1 from A4 to the right, set aside 4 cm and put point O. It is from point O that we will build a shoulder dart on the convexity of the shoulder blades.

From O vertically downward we put off 8cm - we get the point O1. Then, also from the point O, we put off 2cm to the right - we put the point O2. We connect O1 and O2 with a straight line.

The segments OO1 and O1O2 are the sides of the tuck, but we need to equalize them. To do this, from point O1 through point O2, draw a segment O1O3 \u003d OO1 and set point O3. Then we connect points O3 and P1.A4O + O3P1 - the length of the shoulder.

Now let's define the level of the chest line. To do this, from point P downward we postpone the segment PG \u003d 1/4 * Pog + Z. (We choose the Z coefficient depending on the posture: 7 cm - for a normal figure, 7.5 cm - for a stooped figure, 6.5 cm - for an over-bent figure). (For example PG \u003d 1/4 * 48 + 7 \u003d 19 cm).

Draw a horizontal line through point G to the left and right - it determines the level of the chest and the lower level of the armhole. The point of intersection with the straight line AH is denoted by Г1, with the line of the width of the armhole - Г2, with the line ВН1 - Г3.

From point D upwards, we postpone the value of the back angle of the armhole, equal to GP2 \u003d 1/3 of the distance PG + 2 cm, and put P2 (For example, GP2 \u003d 1/3 * 19 + 2 \u003d 8.3 cm).

Divide the angle at point G in half and draw a segment GP3 \u200b\u200bequal to 1/10 Width of the armhole + 1.5 cm and set point P3. These manipulations will help us draw the armhole line beautifully. (The width of the armhole \u003d the size of the segment A1A2). (For example GP3 \u003d 1/10 * 12.0 + 1.5 \u003d 2.7 cm).

Divide the line ГГ2 in half and set the point Г4. By connecting points P1, P2, P3 and G4, we get the line of the back armhole!

We proceed to building the line of the armhole of the shelf

From point Г2 upwards we postpone the segment Г2П4 \u003d 1/4 * Pog + W. (We also choose the W coefficient depending on the type of posture: 5 cm - for normal; 4.5 cm - for stooped; 5.5 cm - for kinky). (For example: Г2П4 \u003d 1/4 * 48 + 5 \u003d 17 cm). We put point P4.

From point P4 to the left, set aside P4P5 \u003d 1/10 * POG and set point P5. (For example: 1/10 * 48 \u003d 4.8 cm).

From the point G2 upward, draw a segment G2P6 equal to 1/3 of the value of G2P4 and set P6. (G2P6 \u003d 1/3 * 17 \u003d 5.7 cm).

And now we will perform several auxiliary constructions to draw a beautiful armhole. We connect points P5 and P6 with a straight line and divide them in half.

Then to this line to the right, at a right angle, set aside 1 cm. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and draw a segment G2P7 equal to 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm (for example, G2P7 \u003d 1/10 * 12.0 + 0.8 \u003d 2.0 cm). We put point P7. P5,1, P6, P7, G4 we connect with a smooth curve - the front armhole line.

Building the neck of the shelf

From the point G3 upwards, we postpone the value of G3V1 \u003d 1/2 * POG + R. (We choose the R coefficient depending on the posture: 1.5 cm for normal and kinky; 1 cm for stooped shoulders) (For example 1/2 * 48 + 1.5 \u003d 25.5 cm). And then we put point B1.

From the point G2 upwards, we postpone the value equal to G3B1 and set the point B2. Then we connect B1 and B2.

From point B1 to the left, set aside B1B3 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + 0.5cm and set point B3. В1В3- neck width. (For example: 1/3 * 18 + 0.5 \u003d 6.5cm).

From B1 downwards we put off the segment B1B4 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + 2cm and set point B4 (For example 18: 3 + 2 \u003d 8cm). We connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. В1В4 - throat depth.

From point B1 through the division point, draw a line on which we lay off the segment B1B5 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + 1cm and set point B5. (For example 18: 3 + 1 \u003d 7cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 with a smooth line and get the neck of the shelf.

Building a dart

From the point G3 to the left we lay off the segment G3G6, which is equal to the position of the center of the chest. We denote it by point Г6.

From G6, draw a perpendicular line upward until it intersects with the line B1B2. At the intersection we put point B6. From B6 downwards, we put B6G7 \u003d VG and set the point G7.

Then, in the same way, from point B6, we put 1 cm down and put point B7. Then, we connect points B7 and P5 with an auxiliary segment.

Along the line П5 В7 from point П5 to the right, set aside the segment П5В8 equal to the length of the shoulder minus the size of the segment В3В7 and minus 0.3 cm (For example, В3В7 \u003d Дп-В3В7-0.3 \u003d 13.5-3-0.5 \u003d 10.2 cm) ... We put point B8.

From point Г7 through point В8 draw a segment Г7В9 along the length equal to the segment Г7В7. The resulting point is designated B9.

We connect points B9 and P5. G7V9 and G7V6 - dart sides, P5V9 + V7V3 - shoulder length.

Back side seam

Let's extend the line A1G down, perpendicular to the waist and hips, until it intersects with BB1. When crossing, points T2 and B2 are formed.

Backrest retraction

From point T to the right, set aside 1.5 cm and put point To. Connect points A To B. From point To to the right at right angles to line A To, we draw a line until it intersects with straight line GT2, we get point T21.

Shelf side seam

Point Г6 lies on the straight line ГГ2, from Г2 to the left at a distance of 1/3 of the width of the armhole (Г6Г2 \u003d 1/3 ГГ2 \u003d 1/3 * 12 \u003d 4cm) From this point we lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with the straight line BB1. Points T3 B3 are formed. From point T3 upward, a distance equal to T2T21, we put a pointku T31. We connect points T21 and T31 with a straight line, slightly extending it to the right, by about 2 cm.

Calculation of the depths of darts at the waist

The sum of all darts along the waist (denote V) is equal to the Width of the drawing grid minus the amount of the take-off, minus OT (half-girth of the waist) and minus the amount of tightening of the bodice, if a tightening bodice is planned. V \u003d (AB-1.5 cm) -OT \u003d (50-1.5 cm) -37.8 cm \u003d 10.7 cm is the total amount of all solutions, which must be distributed over the sections of all darts along the waist:

• on the back - 2.7 cm
• on the shelf - 2.5 cm
• side seam 3 cm
• side dart on the shelf 2.5 cm.

Locations of darts at the waist

Dart on the back. Divide G1G in half and from this point lower the perpendicular line down to the intersection with BB2. This is the center line of the dart on the back. At the intersection with the waistline, it forms the point T21.

Dart on the shelf.From point G7, lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with B3B1. This is the centerline of the dart on the shelf. At the intersection with the waistline, it forms the point T31.

Side dart on the shelf located on the axis Г6Б3

Dart in the side seam- on the GB2 axis.

We form darts

To begin with, we need to determine the degree of fit of the pattern on the hips. Vbed. \u003d (OB + 1.0 cm) -BB1 \u003d (51 + 1) -50 \u003d 2 cm. Now 2/4 \u003d 0.5 cm. We postpone this value on the straight line BB1, on both sides of the points B2 and B3. We put points B21, B22, B31, B32.

On both sides of the point T22, set aside segments equal to 1/2 * 2.7cm \u003d 1.35cm. Further, from the point dividing G1G in half, down through the points of these segments located at a distance of 1.35 cm from the center line of the tuck, lower two lines connecting at a point on the center line located at a distance of 4 cm up from the BB2 line.

Axial groove GB2. From point T21 on both sides ½ * 3cm \u003d 1.5 cm. The lower end of the left side of the dart ends at point B22, the right end at point B21.

Side dart on the shelf. From point T31 on both sides ½ * 2.5cm \u003d 1.25cm. The lower end of the left side of the dart lies at point B32, the lower right end at point B31. Dart on the shelf From point T32 on both sides ½ * 2.5cm \u003d 1.25cm. The right (closest to the middle of the front) of the newly formed points will be designated T32a. The lower end of the dart does not reach the BB1 \u200b\u200bline by 4 cm.The upper end of the dart does not reach the center of the chest by 4 cm.

If Vper. \u003d Zero, then nothing needs to be done.

If Vdev. \u003d negative number, then pay attention to the design of the details at the hips, they should be narrowed.

Top and bottom lines of the bodice

Top line of the bodice. Along the middle line of the back, at a distance of 18 cm from the waist line (TT1), we put a point from which we draw a smooth line to a point lying on the side of the breast dart at a distance of 10 cm from point G7 - point P61. The line connecting these points is a smooth curve with a deflection at point P7.

In the chest area, the upper cut of the bodice is limited by a straight line going from the point of the breast dart lying on the side at a distance of 10 cm from point G7 - a new point G61, to a point on the line of the middle of the front up from point G3 by 2 cm.

Decoration of the central part of the corset

From point T32a draw a straight line through point G7, until it intersects with the arc drawn from point G7, radius G7G61.

Measure the distance from point G61 to point P61 +1.5 cm (this increase in the solution will help to avoid lagging of the top of the corset from the figure) and set it aside in an arc to the left of the point formed when the arc intersects the straight line T32aG7. Draw a straight line from point Г7 to the intersection with the arc at the newly formed point.

Renew the upper cut of the bodice, taking into account the newly built dart.

Making the lower cut of the bodice passes through a point lying on the line of the middle cut of the back, at a distance of 10 cm from point T0 downwards. To a point on the side seam of the back, 10 cm from the waist down. And further, from the point symmetrical to it on the side seam of the shelf to the point on the right side of the lateral dart of the shelf lying on a straight line from point T31 down, then continue construction from the point symmetrical to it on the left side of the dart, then to the beginning of the waist dart on the shelf and further to the middle of the front at right angles. The line of the bottom cut of the bodice is a slightly convex curve passing at right angles at the mating points.

We will correct the configuration of the embossed part of the bodice in the chest area with smooth lines, in accordance with the natural curves of the body. On the left side of the newly formed, translated, chest dart, a slightly convex curve, repeating the roundness of the chest, through point G7, then down to the point formed by the dart solution at the waist, on its left side, slightly bending the curve under the chest, for a better fit to the figure ... Further down to the bottom of the bodice. All lines of the bodice details should also be smooth.

The bodice pattern is ready.

It is built around a custom tailored silhouette to ensure you get the best possible fit over other methods. takes into account all the nuances of the figure. Having it at hand, you can always simulate a variety of bodice models, changing the location and slope of the reliefs, the configuration of the top and bottom lines. Leaving unchanged such important components as dart solutions, the position of the center point of the chest, the total volume of the corset.