For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle

Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)

Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - new the easy way(I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!

I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.

Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But wasn't very friendly school years with geometry and drawing. Even I, who adore both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))

But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No confusing formulas
• No confusing calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?

I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice stroll through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your his bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.

And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.

By the way - since we’re talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress more loose fit- make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And in the end it is born new model(photo below) – also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?

That is why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects line X with the next point...” - ugh!).

I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located here and drawn this way.

After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”

So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem old and familiar to you simple drawing- like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.

And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.

Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, meet - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum size armholes. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.

Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

BACK DARTS – shoulder dart + waist dart

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.

Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT

Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.

I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this one flat circle made of cardboard, with the help of a tuck it will now become convex.

And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest dart.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.

Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.

Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)

The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:

• We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
• We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
• We know that shoulder dart front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.

Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I am all these simple rules I'll give it to you when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).

As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))

WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask

And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))

Happy sewing!

I recently had an urgent need for cuteness, and so the pink bear Susan was born. Susan's pink teddy bear would look great in a snow-white dress, but I've sewn so many of them lately that I'm starting to feel nauseous from white cambric (not for long, I assure you). My soul asked for colors and I decided that the dress must definitely be bright.
And then I remembered that a year ago I took a tutorial on sewing a dress of a similar style on my phone, but I couldn’t bring myself to process the phone photos, I don’t like them. I was ashamed. I reshot MK again on a DSLR :)) I tried to do a lot detailed photos, but some moments are completely obvious to me and I didn’t photograph them. I hope you can understand it from the description.

So, first, let's select the materials. We will need: the main fabric of the dress, thin fabric for the lining, fabric for the collar (if too thin, then plus dublerin/non-woven fabric), a piece of elastic for the sleeves, buttons for the clasp, lace for trim.

1. Take a bear. Fold the paper in half and draw half the front of the dress by eye. There is no need to draw exactly at this stage, we will adjust and correct it later. Cut out the front part. Apply to the bear. The good thing about bears is that the patterns can be pinned at the construction stage; I pin them in the center, along the shoulder and side seams. If you have a doll, it’s also not scary, the pattern is then fixed with pieces of tape. I lowered the shoulder seam slightly, deepened the cutout for the sleeves, the piece turned out wider than necessary, so I cut it in half and taped it to the desired width.
Again we take the paper folded in half, trace the half of the front at the fold as we fitted it, and immediately apply the front part to the shoulder seam, making a back part from it. For now we leave the middle as at the front (then we will reduce it), reduce the depth of the cutout for the sleeves and raise the “neck”. We cut out, pin the pattern on the bear, check if we agree side seams, adjust the width of the back parts. Now we have the basic dress pattern. You can sew a skirt on the bottom and enjoy life, but we are not looking for easy ways, so the dress will... what is it called... with a cut-off yoke? In general, draw the line from which you want the skirt to begin, do not forget to make a mark on the back so that it is symmetrical.

2. Cut off the yoke along the lines, do not throw away the lower parts, we will need them later. Let's start cutting out the collar. If you now simply outline the neckline and draw a collar along it, then after stitching the collar will joyfully stick up, this is not the case. Human collars are cut with a very slight curve, but along the length of the neck... I don’t know how to explain. Search the Internet for “building a collar pattern”, you will understand what I mean. Simply put, our neck is round, while the collar neck is straighter, but the same length. Did you explain it clearly? It is more convenient to cut a double collar for cuckoo bears, so that later you do not have to lay each half separately. I immediately added a neck allowance to the pattern and will cut according to it. Transfer the pattern to fabric. I wanted embroidery on one half of the collar, so first the embroidery, then the cutting.

3. If your collar fabric is dense, then you do not need to duplicate it with non-woven fabric. If the fabric is thin, it will not hold its shape well. Then we duplicate one half with non-woven fabric, sew it together, cut it out and either make notches in the places of the roundings (and the collar is practically one big rounding) so that after turning the collar fits well, or we cut off the zig-zag allowance with scissors, as I did. Don't forget about the notch all the way to the line in the center of the collar. We turn it inside out, iron it, and machine stitch along the edge. Next, cut out the yoke piece from the main fabric and attach the collar as in the picture. At this stage, I baste it along the neck line, because, as we remember, the neck of the dress and the neck of the collar different shapes and if you just pin it, there is a high probability of displacement. We cut out the lining of the yoke and pin everything together perpendicular to the neck seam. By the way, in the photo before chipping you can see that on the right I glued two loops to the allowance with textile glue; this is the future fastener. When we sew this place, we sew at the smallest step so that the loops do not pop out during use.

4. Sew along the seam of the back and neckline, cut it out, make notches at the neckline, turn it inside out, iron it. We are building a skirt. To do this, we take out those who made the patterns that we first cut off. The long panel of the skirt is approximately 1.5-2 times longer than the yoke detail. It’s also better to work on the width, otherwise it will look clumsy: we make a slight rounding along the hem, the widest part in the middle, literally 7-10 mm shorter at the edges. On both sides of the top we outline a piece that continued the sleeve on basic pattern, from the lower end of the sleeve we make a slight flare downwards. We also cut another panel for the back and cut it in the middle into two parts. Collecting fabric. To do this, set the minimum thread tension on the machine (usually I sew at a value of 6-7, depending on the thickness of the fabric and needle, but I lay this line at 1-2) and the maximum stitch length (usual 2.5, for assembly I set it to 4.5 , on my machine this is the maximum). We lay two rows of stitching along the top of the skirt detail at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from each other. Pull the lower ends of the threads; they should easily pull the fabric into folds. Pull it to the width of the yoke.

5. Pin the gathered panel to the yoke, face to face. We sew and process the edge. I finish the edge with an overlocker. We bend the skirt and iron it. You can lay a line along the face of the yoke. We do the same with both parts of the skirt on the back. Before this, I also processed the cut on the backs, and you need to pin the skirt to the yoke so that there is a skirt allowance of about 5mm on the back.

6. Trying it on :) It’s already beautiful, but we still need to make the sleeves. I draw the pattern by eye. The longer the pattern and the higher the roundings at the top and bottom, the more magnificent the puff sleeve. I overlock the edge of the lower cut of the sleeves, bend them 5-7mm (the elastic will be threaded into this allowance, so it should be slightly wider than the elastic that you have), iron it with an iron. I take the lace and baste it to the bottom edge of the sleeve. The lace is wide, so the bottom edge just goes along the fold of the bottom of the sleeve, I stitch along the wrong side 5-7 mm from the edge. We gather the sleeve. We do the same with it as with the skirt (see photo number 4).

7. We baste the gathered sleeve to the sleeve cutout, stitch it, and process the cut. As a result, we get a vest, which we now assemble into a dress. First, insert the elastic into the sleeves. We measure the circumference of the bear/doll's forearm, add an allowance and thread the elastic into the place provided for it. We pin the dress along the side seam, making sure that both ends of the elastic are fixed, otherwise the elastic will “run away”. We stitch and process the cuts.

8. Process the bottom of the dress. I'm going to put lace along the bottom edge, so in order not to create excess thickness, I use an overlocker to sew a narrow seam, fold the edge inward, and iron it. Since the dress has a rounded hemline, the lace needs to be slightly gathered during the basting process. Basted and stitched. We pin the dress together back seam(for this we needed a 5mm allowance, we sew not to the yoke, but so that a bear/doll would then fit into the hole. We sew, straighten the allowances to the sides from the wrong side, iron them. We stitch from the edge of the back neckline, down the skirt, and with the letter "p" up again. Sew on the buttons. If you need to decorate the dress, then decorate it (I sewed small pearls on the front of the yoke). We put it on the bear and enjoy the result, but that's not all :) You also need to spray the sleeves with water from a spray bottle and shape them with your hands a natural puff sleeve so that it lies correctly and beautifully, and does not stick out upward. Leave on the bear until dry. Now it's ready :)

This section is dedicated to curvy women. We will look at and learn how to build patterns using several methods that are used when sewing clothes for overweight women. Here, as in previous lessons, we use step by step instructions constructing drawings of the basis of the dress, sleeves, etc.

As an example, in the first option we will take measurements that correspond to size 54 (chest girth 108 cm), so to speak, for women of average size. In the second option, we use, as an example, measurements corresponding to size 60 (chest girth 120cm), for women with more curvy figures. In both cases, we build patterns for the base of the dress. semi-adjacent silhouette, in accordance with this we take into account the increases for a loose fit along the lines of the chest, waist and hips.
You take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you will sew the dress.
In any case, we recommend that after constructing the drawing and making the pattern, test it on something simple. For example, sew a robe from cheap fabric. If you are not at all sure, use an old sheet or other item that has served its time for sewing.

As a parting word: I wish you courage in your endeavors, perseverance, perseverance and patience in achieving your goal. Step by step, moving forward, you will overcome the path to perfection.
We use exactly step-by-step drawing instructions, to demonstrate and convince you that everything is actually not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. When you look at a finished drawing of a base pattern and have never encountered anything like this before, you may get the impression that all this is incredibly complicated and almost impossible. However, I note that the impossible is most often just something that we have not tried to do yet. Good luck!

SEMI-FITTING DRESS FOR WOMEN OF MEDIUM FITTING (for example, size 54)

To create a pattern drawing, you need to take the following measurements:
Recommendation: Take correct measurements. The entire result of your efforts will depend on this.
To take measurements more accurately, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is clearly defined when the head is tilted, as well as the shoulder line at the base of the neck and at the junction of the arm and shoulder. Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a dot on the body, use a felt-tip pen, which can be easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after completing this procedure.
It’s good if the person you are taking measurements from is wearing thin dress, or better yet, only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand straight, without tension, i.e. maintain your normal posture. This is exactly what I draw your attention to. Because often when taking measurements or trying on, a woman, especially if she sees her reflection in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good aspiration, but when taking measurements it can distort the real state of things. And a well-fitting dress when trying on, in everyday life will not be as comfortable as we would like, and as it should be.
Therefore, taking into account the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract him with a peaceful conversation, tie a cord around his waist, mark the starting points and start measuring.

There are some differences in the proposed methods in the methods of taking measurements, in the number of measurements, in the names of measurements, etc. In this technique, the procedure for taking measurements is as follows:

Name of measurements and symbols	cm	Taking measurements
Product length (Di)		Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length.
Armhole depth (Gpr)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to a horizontal line drawn with a centimeter through the armpits.
Back length to waist (Dst)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the convexity of the shoulder blades. To do this, you can apply a thin ruler to the protruding points of the shoulder blades; the centimeter tape should pass over the ruler.
Back width (Ws)		Measure horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners of the armpits.
Half neck circumference (Ssh)		The measuring tape should run along the base of the neck, at the back above the seventh cervical vertebra, at the front above the jugular cavity (recess).
Half chest girth 1st (CrI)		The measuring tape runs horizontally, at the back along the protruding points of the shoulder blades, and at the front above the base of the chest.
Half chest girth 2nd (CrII)		The measuring tape runs horizontally at the back along the protruding points of the shoulder blades, and at the front along the protruding points of the chest.
Recess opening size (Vrv)		Measured vertically. It is taken simultaneously with half-chest measurements. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point.
Half waist (St)		Measure horizontally at the narrowest point.
Half hip circumference (Sb)		Measure horizontally, from the back along the protruding points of the buttocks, from the front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen.
Sprout height (Vr)		Measure along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
Back shoulder height (Vps)		Measure along the back from the point where the arm meets the shoulder to the waist.
Armhole width (Shpr)		Measure horizontally under the arm: from the joint of the arm with the torso on the back side to the joint of the arm with the torso on the front side. You can calculate it using a ruler placed horizontally in the armpit.
Side length (db)		Measure from the back from the top edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line.
Shoulder Length (Dp)		Measure along the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point where the arm meets the shoulder.
Chest Height (Vg)		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.
Front shoulder height (VPP)		Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Front length to waist (Dpt)		Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line.
Center of the chest (CG)		Measure horizontally between the most protruding points of the chest.
Front width (W)		Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the corners of the armpits.
Width of the front at the protruding points of the chest (ШпII) Control measurement		Measured horizontally between the corners of the armpits at the most protruding points of the chest.
Sleeve length (Dr)		Measured from where the arm meets the shoulder to the desired length.
Sleeve length to elbow (DRL)		Measured from the joint of the arm with the shoulder to the elbow.
Arm circumference (Op)		Measured horizontally at the fullest part of the upper arm (at armpit level).
Wrist (hand) circumference Oz		Measure along the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.
Loose Fit Increases For a loose fit, add 4-5 cm to the measurement of the second half-circumference of the chest CgII, 3 cm to the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips Sb and 2 cm to the measurement of the half-circumference of the waist St.

Let's start building.
In the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at the point R(Fig. 1).

Dress length.
From point P downwards we set aside the taken measurement of the length of the dress Di(100 cm) and put a dot N.

Armhole depth.
From point P downwards we set aside the taken measurement of the depth of the armhole ( Gpr=21 cm) and put a dot G.

Waistline.
From point P downwards we set aside the taken measurement of the length of the back to the waist (Dst=39 cm) and put a dot T.

Hip line.
From point T down is usually postponed 18 – 19 cm. We'll take the average 18,5 see and put a dot B.

From points G, T, B and N to the left at right angles we draw horizontal lines: the depths of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Back width.
From point G to the left we put off the taken measurement of the width of the back Shs(19.5) plus 0,5 cm (increase for loose fit) and put a dot G1:
GG1 = Shs + 0.5 = 19.5 + 0.5 = 20 cm.

Distance to the sideline.
From point G1 To the left we set aside half of the taken measurement of the width of the armhole Shpr (12.5) minus 1 see and put a dot G2:
G1 G2 = Shpr: 2 – 1 = (12.5: 2)-1 = 5.25 cm.
From point G2 draw a straight line down and put dots at its intersection with the lines of the waist and hips T2 and B1.

Sprout width.
From point R set aside to the left 1/3 half neck circumference Ssh(19cm) plus 1 cm and put an end to it P1:
PP1 = 1/3 Ssh +1 = 19:3+1=7,3 cm.

Sprout height.
From point P1 upward we plot the difference between the height measurements of the sprout VR(41cm) and back length to waist Dst (39cm) and put an end to it P2:
Р1Р2 = Вр – Дст = 41 – 39 = 2 cm.
Points R And P2 connect with a concave smooth curve. We get the line of the back neckline (the sprout line).

Back height.
From point T1 We put the taken measurement of the shoulder height of the backrest up Vps(36 cm) and put a point P.

From point G1 set aside up 1/3 segment distances G1P and put an end to it ABOUT. Compass from a point ABOUT draw left through the point P arc.

Shoulder length.
From point P2 as from the center, with a radius equal to 15cm(measurement of shoulder length taken Dp (13cm) plus 2cm to the dart), draw an arc until it intersects with a previously constructed arc (see Fig. 12). Place a point at the intersection of two arcs P1.
R2 P1 =13+2=15cm.
Points R2 And P1 connect.

Connecting the dots P1,O and G2 smooth curve, as shown in Figure 12, we complete the construction back armholes.

Back shoulder dart.
From point R2 left on the line R2 P1 set aside 1/3 of the taken measurement of shoulder length Dp and place point B;
Р2В=13:3=4.3 cm.
From point B downwards we draw a vertical line of length 8 cm and put point B1.

From point IN left along the line R2P1 postpone 2 cm and put an end to it AT 2. From point IN 1 through the point AT 2 draw a line length 8 cm and put an end to it AT 3. Points V3P1 connect with a straight line and get back shoulder line.

Lateral line of the back.
From point T2 set aside to the right 2 cm and put an end to it T3. Points T3 And G2 connect.

Waist line design.
From point T3 set aside up 1 cm and put an end to it T4, points T4 And T connect with a smooth curve (see Fig. 16).

From point B1 set aside to the left 1/2 C6 (60+3=63 cm) and the second half chest circumference CgII with an allowance for a loose fit (54+4=58cm) and put an end to it B2:
B1, B2 = (63-58) : 2 = 2.5 cm. Points G4 And B2 connect with a smooth curve.

Width of the bottom of the back.
From point N to the left we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the back along the hip line (see drawing, this distance BB2) plus 2-3 cm and put an end to it H1. Points H1 And B2 H1 set aside up 1cm and put an end to it H2. Points H2 And N connect with a smooth curve.

Back dart.
Distance GG1 G3.From point G3 draw a vertical line down and place a dot at its intersection with the waist line T5, with the line of the hips - a point B3. From point G3 put down 4 cm and put an end to it AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3 cm and put an end to it B4.

Depth of dart.
From point T5 to the right and left along the waist line we put it aside 1 cm and put dots T6 And T7 AT 4 And B4(see Fig. 20).

The construction of the back is completed.

Before
Bottom line of the back НН1 let's continue to the left. From point H1 set aside approximately 45-50 cm and put an end to it H3. From point H3 draw a vertical line up. From points G2, T2, B2 to the left we draw horizontal lines until they intersect with the vertical. The points of intersection with the vertical line are designated accordingly G4, T8, B5.

Front width.
From point G4 to the right we put aside the taken measurement of the half-circumference of the chest second CrII with an allowance for a loose fit (54 + 4) minus back width with increase (according to drawing GG1 = 20 cm) and minus the armhole width (measurement taken 12.5 cm) and put an end to it G5:
G4G5=58-20-12.5=25.5 cm.
Through the point G5 draw a vertical line down, at the intersection of which with the waist line we place a dot T9.

Distance to the sideline. From point G5 to the right we set aside half the width of the armhole Shpr(12.5) plus 1 cm and put an end to it G6:
G5G6 = 12.5:2+1=7.25 cm.
From point G6 draw a vertical line down and put dots at its intersection with the horizontal lines T10 and B6.

Front height.
From point T8 We put the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist up Dpt (44 cm) and put an end to it P3

Neck width.
From point P3 draw a horizontal line to the right and put it on it 1/3 half neck circumference Ssh!(19cm) plus 1 cm and put an end to it P4:
R3 R4 =19:3+1=7.3 cm.

Neck depth.
From point P3 put down 1/3 half neck circumference Ssh (19cm) plus 1.5 cm and put an end to it P5:
Р3Р5 = 19:3+1.5=7.8 cm.
Points R4 And P5 connect a straight line, divide it in half and mark the middle with a dot O1. From point O1 lay down at right angles 1.25 cm and put an end to it 02 . Points P5, 02 and P4 connect with a smooth curve and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

Center of the chest.
From point G4 to the right we put the taken measurement of the center of the chest Tsg (11 cm) and put an end to it G7. Points P4 And G7 connect.

Chest height.
From point P4 down, extending the line R4G7, set aside the chest height measurement taken Vg (29.5 cm) and put an end to it C.

End of dart.
Along the same line from the point C set aside up 2.5 cm and put an end to it C 1. The chest dart ends at this point.

The size of the tuck opening.
From point C We put the taken measurement of the size of the dart opening up Vrv (12 cm) and put an end to it U. From point C, as from the center, through a point U draw an arc to the right.

Opening the dart.
From point U on the drawn arc we plot the difference between the measurements of the half-circumference of the chest of the second СгII (54cm) and half chest circumference of the first CgI (49cm) and put an end to it U1.
УУ1 = СгII – СгI = 54 - 49 = 5 cm This construction can be done using a compass. From point U, as from the center, radius 5cm draw an arc until it intersects with a previously constructed arc. Mark the intersection point U1.
Through dots Ts1 and U1 draw a straight line, continuing it upward by an amount that is equal to the distance Ts1R4 and put an end to it P2:
Ts1P2 = Ts1P4.

Front shoulder height.
On a straight line T9G5, extending it upward, from the point T9 set aside the taken measurement of the front shoulder height Runway (35 cm) and put an end to it P3.

Auxiliary armhole point.
From point G5 set aside up 1/4 distances G5P3 (4.5 cm) and put an end to it 03 . Dot 0 3 - check Point. When threading the sleeve into the armhole, it connects to the mark on the sleeve at the point ABOUT
From point 0 3 using a compass through a point P3 draw an arc to the right.

Shoulder length. From point P2 , as from the center, with a radius equal to measured shoulder length Dpl, (in our case 13cm) draw an arc until it intersects with a previously constructed arc and place a point P4 . Points P4 , 0 3 And
G6 connect with a smooth curve, thereby completing the construction of the front armhole .

Side line front.
From point T10 set aside to the left 1.5 cm and put an end to it T11. Points G6 and T11 connect with a straight line.

Waist line design.
From point T11 set aside up 1 cm and put an end to it T12. Points T8 and T12 connect with a smooth curve.

Formation of the lateral line in the hip area.
From point B6 set aside to the right 1/2 differences between hip circumference measurements Sat with an allowance for a loose fit (60+3=63 cm) and the second half chest circumference CgII with an allowance for a loose fit (54+4=58cm) and put an end to it B7:
B6 B7 = (63-58): 2 = 2.5 cm.
Points T12 and B7 connect with a smooth curve.

Front bottom width.
From point H3 to the right we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the front along the hip line (see drawing, this distance B5B7), plus 2-3 cm and put an end to it H4. Points B7 And N4 connect with a straight line. From point H4 set aside up 1 cm and put an end to it H5.

Lengthening the front.
From point H3 put down 2 cm and put an end to it H6. Points N6 and N5 connect with a smooth curve.

Construction of a dart.
Distance G7G5 divide in half and put a dot G8. From point G8 draw a vertical line down and place dots at the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips T13 and B8. From point G8 put down 6 cm, and from the point B8 up - 2 cm and put dots B5 and B9.

Recess depth.
From point T13 to the right and to the left we postpone by 1.25 cm and put dots T14 and T15, which we connect to the points B5 and B9. (See Fig. 42)

Construction completed.
But before you start cutting, don’t be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the basic measurements again. Pay special attention to the waist circumference, since in this method, when constructing darts along the waist line, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If, when checking, you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (specifically in the waist circumference), they can be easily eliminated by reducing or increasing the opening of the darts along the waist line.

This is a basic dress pattern drawing - a guide for creating a wide variety of patterns. Before you start modeling, you need to check the pattern, “fit” it to the figure, and make adjustments if necessary. And only after you are completely sure that everything is in order, you can safely begin to create.

And remember, the one who walks will master the road!

I sincerely wish you success!

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This wonderful Marc Jacobs yoke dress looks very romantic. It won’t take much time to sew such a dress with a yoke.

Before you start modeling a dress, you need to build it according to your own measurements. The length of the dress from the waist is about 60 cm.

On the base pattern of the dress, built according to your measurements, draw modeling lines, as shown in the pattern drawings.

On the front half of the dress it is necessary to add an increase to the fastener. Dress fastener width in finished form 2 cm. The clasp of the dress is cut off and cut out separately.

The chest dart of the dress must be closed on the yoke of the dress; the lower part of the dart is not closed, but goes into the gathers.

Since there is additional volume along the waistline of the dress, which also goes into gathers or pleats (if desired, you can add pleats instead of gathers), you need to cut the dress as shown in the dress pattern drawing and spread it about 4 cm. If you want more gathers, spread it further distance.

Perform flaring on the side as shown in Fig. 1. Additionally you need to build

Rice. 1. Modeling the front and back of the dress

How to cut and sew a dress with a yoke

From the main material you need to cut out:

1. Front yoke of dress - 2 children.
2. Dress yoke strap - 2 children.
3. The middle part of the front of the dress to the waist is 1 piece. with fold
4. Skirt front of the dress - 1 child. with fold
5. The back of the dress is 2 pieces.
6. Dress back skirt - 2 children.
7. Collar - 4 pieces.

From the companion fabric you need to cut out:

• The frill of the bottom of the dress is a strip of fabric 12 cm wide (10 cm in finished form) and a length equal to the length of the dress along the bottom cut, multiplied by 1.4.
• Ruffles for the armholes of the dress - 2 strips of fabric 4-5 cm wide (2.3-3 cm in finished form) and a length equal to the length of the front and back armholes of the dress multiplied by 1.8.
• The belt of the dress is a strip of fabric 15 cm wide (5 cm when finished) and about 2 m long.

Additionally, narrow frills are used to trim the collar of the dress and the placket of the dress. The width of the frills is 0.5 cm, the length is equal to the length of the parts being processed, multiplied by 1.6.

IMPORTANT! For convenience, a hidden zipper should be sewn along the back of the dress.

Rice. 2. Details of the cut of the dress with a yoke

How to sew a dress

Baste and sew the shoulder seams of the dress. When sewing a dress, sew seam allowances with an overlock stitch and iron them.

Reinforce the outer parts of the dress collar with thermal fabric. Place the collar pieces in pairs face to face, sweep and stitch on the outside, turn right side out, sweep clean.

Sew the collar into the neck of the dress between the control marks C, stitch it, and finish the seam with an overlocker or bias tape.

Place the yoke strips of the dress face to face with the yoke details and baste and stitch. (Don't forget to place a narrow frill under the bar).

Fold the seam allowance along the dress straps and baste. Fold the strips inside out and stitch along the top short side to the collar. Turn out the strips, sweep the corners clean and iron them.

Topstitch the trims to the edges.

Place the yoke of the right and left sides of the dress on top of each other so that the strips lie one on top of the other. The right side of the dress yoke should lie on top of the left side of the dress yoke.

On the middle part of the dress, overlock (preferably with a rolled seam) the upper cut, assemble (the length of the top of the part = the length of the bottom of the dress yoke). Place the assembled part over the yoke (the overlock stitch should lie on top of the yoke), stitch.

Finish ruffles for armholes along the edges and pull them to the length of the armholes. Place the ruffles on the armholes of the dress face to face, baste and stitch.

Baste and stitch the side seams of the dress. Baste and stitch the fabric of the dress skirt along the side seams.

Sew the skirt of the dress to the top of the dress, slightly gathering where necessary. Sew a frill along the bottom of the dress. Sew the waist allowances at a distance of 1.5 cm to form a drawstring, insert an elastic band.

Sew along the back of the dress. Sew a belt to the dress. The finished width of the belt is about 5 cm, the length is determined individually.

You will find even more simple and interesting patterns on the website of Anastasia Korfiati’s Sewing School. Subscribe to free lessons and sew quality products with us!

The principle of constructing a pattern for any small baby doll or baby doll, using the example of Paola Reina, a 21 cm straight-legged baby doll.

In other words, I’m telling you how to do this:

You need a COMPASS, a ruler, a pencil, and a checkered sheet of paper.
We measured the width of the neck.


Transfer the measurement onto the sheet. We found the middle of the segment. This is the radius of the first circle, the neck of the future dress.


Using a ruler, we measured the width of the future yoke on the doll, from the neck to the shoulder. The shoulder should be covered with a “wing”, but not up to the armpit. 2 cm for this doll. Open the compass 2 cm wider and draw a second circle.


We take into account the shoulder bevel - we make a bevel on the folded half of the pattern, on both sides, 5 mm.


Cut off excess from all sides. A sheet folded in half produces two slices.


We cut the back part in half and glue it end-to-end on the sides to the front part.


We take into account the overlap of the parts on the back. While the back is simply cut, it fits end to end. But it needs to be overlapped. We glued a piece of paper on both sides and added 5 mm to each side of the back.


Ready. This is what it looks like from the face.


And like this from the inside out.


The resulting clamp was tried on the doll. Marked where the boundaries of the armhole will be in front and back on one arm.


We mirrored it onto the second side of the pattern (marks in red).


We folded two rags face to face - the fabric of the top and the lining. The pattern has been translated. RED areas DO NOT need to be stitched!


Sew along the green lines. NO NEED for red ones.


On the other hand it looks like this.


We cut off the excess, leaving an allowance of 5 mm. Notches were made inside the neck circle.


We turned it inside out through the unstitched front and pressed it with an iron. From the face:


From the inside:


We decide on the length of the hem. I think little children dolls don’t need floor-length dresses. It is necessary that the panties be covered a little - this way a long body on short legs looks more harmonious. I put the yoke on the doll, measure from the edge of the yoke to “so that the panties are covered” - it comes out to 6 cm.
We decide on the length of the strip of fabric. It needs to be long. 2 - 2.5 times longer than it would simply be sewn under a yoke without folds. We will spoil the handkerchief; its edge is already hemmed. We cut off strips of 6.5 cm on both sides of the scarf - the length of the hem plus the allowance.


The borders on the sides were cut off at the front. The back was cut in half, we don’t touch the side borders - they will be a fastener.


We sew the pieces into one strip. Armholes: simply cut out two 1x2 cm segments (shaded in the picture) and overcast the edges. You can sew right away from one strip of fabric, not from pieces, if you have a long enough strip.


For a larger doll, you can bother with hemming, for small ones, overcasting the edge is enough.


Now we sew the yoke to the hem, simultaneously laying folds on the hem. Place the pieces face to face. We start from the back, the front is sewn last. You need to be VERY careful that the seam does not move from the markings - one part is rectangular, and the second is rounded. I flash it three times. “There”, watching the position of each stitch. Then I cut the allowance to a minimum and sew it “back” - overcast it. And the third time “there” - I lift the cut to the yoke and grab it so as not to change the position. It's clear? This has already been stitched three times:


And here I sew on the last part, in front, and so far only once. You will also need to cut off the excess, sweep it and lift it up and grab it.


Ready.


Fastening with thread loops and buttons. You can use buttons, Velcro, hooks - it doesn’t matter.


Last step: erasing the markings. The kettle was boiled. Boiling water poured into a spoon in a ladle washing powder. Liners and felt-tip pens come off almost instantly. All that remains is to rinse without squeezing and straighten terry towel. Maybe I’ll stroke it some more later, or maybe I don’t need to. Depends on the fabric.
You can put it on and enjoy :)

All my dolls wear dresses built and sewn like this: