How to properly prepare the material for cutting. And here is a duck? Preparation of fabric for cutting

Selection of necessary tools. For this you will need: a centimeter tape, preferably on a woven basis; tailor scissors; well-ground soap or chalk; ruler; a brush for cleaning lines from fabric; safety pins and necessary curly patterns.

Second stage - decanting

Decaturing is the ironing of the fabric with the aim of preventing it from shrinking. If the composition of the fabric consists of natural fibers, it is imperative to moisten it in warm water and dry it, only then proceed to ironing and cutting. Also, if the fabric is contaminated, it is recommended to wash it with appropriate means suitable for labeling, dry and iron, so that there are no wrinkles and creases. Try to iron the fabric in the direction of the warp, i.e. along the edge to avoid distortions on the finished product.

The third step is to check the fabric for defects.

In this case, you need to look: at spots, not over-stained, not over-woven, at holes, etc. Defects found must be circled with soap or chalk on the wrong side and taken into account when cutting.

The fourth stage\u003e - determination of the front side

Typically, the fabric is folded in a roll in half, face inward. Modern fabrics are double-faced, so choose the side that is most pronounced. Sometimes it happens that the wrong side is better suited to the proposed model, so you can choose the wrong side as the front.

The fifth stage - the definition of the pattern, pile, shade

If the fabric has a shade, a one-sided pattern or a pile (with a pile or embossed pattern), it is necessary to determine the direction of the shade or pattern. In this case, the layout of the patterns is done in one direction.

If the fabric has a pattern in a cage or strip, then on the fabric you need to determine: on the cell - a pronounced cell, and on the fabric in a strip - a pronounced strip, which will be the basis for the whole pattern.

Sixth stage - spreading the fabric

The fabric is folded with its faces inward and laid out on its edge on a flat surface, with a vast area, preferably on a large table. The most important thing when cutting, so that there are no unnecessary objects on the table. unnecessary objects can fall under the blade of the scissors, which will lead to poor-quality cut and blunt scissors.

Seventh stage - layout of pattern details

The process is as follows: first, large parts (shelf, back, sleeve) are laid out, then small parts (cuffs, collar, belt, etc.) are laid along the warp thread. To the bend are placed those details that are given in the pattern in half. The result is an integral part.

The eighth stage - the shallowing of the details of the pattern

It happens exactly along the contour, marking all the control points and lines. For convenience, you can use curly patterns to accurately and evenly circle the lines. Be sure to ensure that the thickness of the lines is 1-2 mm.

The ninth stage - seam allowances

After all the parts have been circled, you can remove the patterns and chop the fabric with pins in those places where the details of the cut are located. Add the required amount of allowances (using a ruler) around the entire perimeter of the parts with chalk or soap. On loose fabrics, allowances need to be increased.

Tenth stage - cutting parts

Check the accuracy of the layout patterns in accordance with the model and dimensional data. Check the size of the allowances and gains (for a loose fit), check the direction of the pattern, pile, shade and the front - wrong side. Check for any defects on the fabric again. Then proceed to the cutting of the details. Cut the product details strictly according to the seam allowances.

If the fabric has a significant thickness or density, then the details are cut into one layer of fabric one after another. This will ease physical activity.

Until! Wish you luck!

P.S.   I will be glad to see your comments!

Subscribe to the blog news, so as not to miss the most interesting.

Sincerely, Maria Novikova.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl + Enter.

How to sew linen? This fabric is considered to be the most environmentally friendly material. Clothes made of linen are the best choice for a hot climate! Sewing linen is not difficult, but preparing for work and caring for this fabric have their own characteristics.

We will talk in detail about the properties of flax and how to sew linen with your own hands.

Flax Features

Why is flax so popular? This fabric, obtained from flax fibers, has wonderful consumer properties! Flax absorbs moisture well and dries quickly; in hot weather, linen clothes reduce body temperature by several degrees. Flax is not electrified, resistant to pollution and even has antiseptic properties! Linen fabrics will serve you for a very long time. Over time, flax does not turn yellow, but becomes lighter and softer.

The main minus 100% of flax is creasing and a tendency to both shrink after washing and stretch during wear. To compensate for these shortcomings, blended fabrics are produced. Flax is mixed with silk, viscose, elastane, wool.

Linen weaving of natural flax is well recognized, it is also distinguished by the presence of thickening on some threads, up to small knots. The fewer such inclusions, the more high-quality linen you hold in your hands. Before buying, be sure to sweep your hand over the fabric, if it is possible to attach a cut to the body. Some types of flax can prick and leave unpleasant sensations on the skin, although most often flaxen fabrics on the contrary are very pleasant to wear.

Please note that linen will shrink when washing. Therefore, buy a cut with a margin of about 10% more than the recommended one for your model.

Model selection

  Linen fabrics are suitable for almost any clothing.

Please note that while wearing, the flax can stretch a lot, especially in places subject to bending (for example, knees). Therefore, it is not necessary to sew an adjacent silhouette from linen or use a lining.

Preparation for cutting

  Like all natural materials, linen needs to be decaturated! Light plain fabrics can be soaked in hot water, and fabrics of dark colors and with a pattern can be soaked in water with a temperature of up to 40 degrees. If in the future you plan to wash the product in the machine, also wash the fabric.

To avoid skewing, we recommend sweeping or stitching the fabric along the edges, folding it with its face inward. Do not use a spin to avoid strong creases in the fabric. Then dry the fabric, spreading it as much as possible. Iron a slightly damp flax with a hot steam iron.

  How to sew linen with your own hands? Linen fabrics are comfortable to use. They are easy to cut, grind and they lend themselves well to the WTO.

The edge of linen is often crumbled, so cut out parts with slightly larger allowances. Process allowances as quickly as possible. If your fabric has a loose structure, it is worth reinforcing the place for embroidering zippers with non-woven fabric.

Check on a piece of fabric how the seam behaves and if the fabric near the line “creeps”, glue the seams with a narrow strip of non-woven. The line should go straight along the non-woven, 1-2 mm step away from its edge.

Care for linen clothes

  As already mentioned, linen products are stretched during socks, but restore shape after washing. Wash the flax at the temperature at which the decathing was carried out (or specified by the manufacturer).

Colored fabrics can fade, so wash them separately at temperatures up to 40 degrees with a detergent for colored fabrics. Do not use spin at high speeds and dry in a straightened state.

Wet linen should be ironed at high temperature using steam.

Cutting fabrics is best done on a smooth and spacious table, having previously considered the layout of the cut details.
  Sewing enterprises use a special program, equipment and knives for economical layouts. At home, the technology of cutting fabric, of course, is simplified. The back of the product is cut out at the fold of the fabric, and the shelf is located next to the back. The remaining parts are laid out in the remaining lunges of the fabric.

Before cutting fabric, it is necessary to check the fabric for “shrinkage”, especially for fabrics containing cotton fibers.

Before cutting, some fabrics should be decanted.

To do this, moisten a piece of cloth with a size of 10 by 10 cm and dry it with a hot iron. If the dimensions of the prototype have changed, then it is necessary to perform decanting, that is, moisturizing the tissue with subsequent heat treatment with an iron or natural drying.

When moistened, almost all fabrics shrink in length and slightly shorter in width. Therefore, in order to prevent deformation of clothing from moisture in the finished form or after washing, it is advisable to decorate almost all fabrics before cutting. This is especially true for fabrics having an admixture of cotton fibers.

However, note that some fabrics cannot be moistened at all (crepe, velvet, silk). First, check on a piece of fabric if there is a need for it or check this when buying fabric in a store. But, if the fabric needs to be decatable, then this must be done, because after the first washing the product will become narrower and shorter.

Cutting the fabric begins with the layout of the details of the pattern

After decating the fabric, you can lay out the details of the pattern and select their optimal location, taking into account the shared direction.
  First, the details of the pattern of the back, shelves and sleeves are laid out. And between them are small parts: a belt, cuffs, collars, pockets and other details. For an example, a layout diagram of a pattern of a female blouse is given. The fabric is folded in half with the front side inward. The addition line runs in the middle of the back.

Not all fabrics can be cut as shown in this diagram. The details of the straight skirt will have a different shade with such a cut, be sure to consider this when drawing up the layout of the details of the pattern and calculating the consumption of fabric.
  Fabrics such as velveteen with a pile coating need only be cut in one direction.

All the main details of the product, unless otherwise provided by the style, must be cut along the shared thread of the fabric.
  The belt, collar and pockets, depending on the style, are laid out in various directions, both along the shared thread, and along the cross, or along the oblique.
  When cutting symmetric (paired) parts, the fabric is folded in half "in a fold" along the shared thread, face inward.

Before laying out the details of the pattern on the fabric, you should check the location of the pattern on the fabric, the direction of the pile, and also make sure that there are no defects in the fabric. If a fabric defect is detected, then they are marked with threads of a different color, and when laying out parts, this place is left unused, "bypassed".

On plain fabrics or fabrics with an indefinite pattern, patterns can be laid out in different directions. If the pattern is located in one direction, then all the details of the pattern are laid out with the upper part on the fabric in one direction.

On fabrics with pile (velveteen, plush, velvet), the details of the pattern should be laid out so that in the finished product the direction of the pile was directed upward. The exception is flannel products, where the pile should have a downward direction. If this rule is not observed, then in the finished product the parts will have a different shade.

On striped and checkered fabrics, the details of the pattern are placed (in accordance with the style) in different directions. In this case, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the strips or cells coincide in color and width and are symmetrical, the center of the pattern or large pattern is in the middle of the skirt and bodice.

Fabric Cutting Tools

The layout of the fabric is sometimes necessary to do before buying fabric in order to accurately calculate the consumption of fabric. To do this, you can select on the floor area 150 cm wide and up to 2 meters long and lay out the details of the pattern. In this simple way, you can find out how much you need to buy fabrics for a particular product.

After the correct and optimal layout of all the details of the pattern on the fabric, chalk or dry soap residue indicate their contours. Then the fabric is folded in half with the front side inward and cleaved with the pins of the edge so that it does not mix with the cut.

The fabric needs to be cut with large tailor's scissors or special sharp (photo), not forgetting the allowances from 1.0 to 1.5 cm. By the way, if you have little experience, then make patterns with allowances. This will save you from the mistake of cutting the part without allowances for seams. Professional tailoring allowances always add to the pattern during the cutting of fabric "by eye". This is because when modeling based on the basic pattern, other allowance values \u200b\u200bcan be used.

Instead of scissors, try using a special knife for cutting fabrics, as in this photo. It costs no more than good scissors, but much more convenient. True, such a knife also requires a special plastic board, which you need to buy separately, but at the same time you can buy a special wide range.

When the product details have already been cut, it becomes necessary to outline the lines of darts, reliefs of pockets, etc. How to do this so that the paired parts of the shelf have the same location of the tucks? Very simple. Chalk the tuck lines on the wrong side on one of the shelves and fold the shelves with the wrong sides inward. Check if the edges of the shelves, necks and other parts coincide with each other and tap with the palm of your hand at the place where the tuck is approximately outlined. Cretaceous lines will leave a mark on the second part, and you will only have to draw them brighter.
  There is still a way, using the laying of snares, but this technology is considered already obsolete.

After cutting the fabric on some details, you can make control marks (marks), for example, cut out the highest point of the whole-piece sleeve okay with scissors, cut out the beginning of tucks, folds along the waistline of trousers or skirts, etc.
  The middle of the back of the dress or blouse, the center of the shelf and collar of the beginning seamstress can be marked with a manual seam, since the chalk lines tend to “disappear” after being ironed.

  Preparation of fabric for cutting

Fabric Cutting Tools:
1. For cutting fabric you will need large scissors (they differ from office scissors and are sold in specialized stores)
2. Sharpened soap and chalk
3. Centimeter tape
4. Rulers and curly patterns

  Preparation of fabric for cutting

- Identify the front of the fabric.   The fabric is usually folded in a roll in half. Woolen fabrics are folded with the front side inward, and silk - outward. At the edge of the fabric, the punctures are directed from the wrong side to the right side of the fabric. All weaving defects are usually brought to the wrong side of the fabric.

- Decanting.   Some fabrics in the process of wet-heat treatment (ironing), washing are subject to shrinkage. To avoid this, the fabric must be decanted before cutting (wet-heat treatment). Iron the fabric in the direction of the warp threads without stretching. The warp thread is directed along the edge of the fabric. When laying out patterns, try to avoid deviating from the direction of the warp thread. Otherwise, the finished product may “spin” on the person.

- Determine the direction of the pile in the pile fabrics (velvet, semi-velvet, velveteen).   Pile should be directed from bottom to top. On pile fabrics with fleece (drape, bike, etc.), the pile on the product should be directed from top to bottom. If there is an embossed pattern on the pile fabric and it does not have a specific pile direction, then the direction of the pile in the product can be from bottom to top or top to bottom. Define visually as you like best.

On fabrics with a large pattern, lay out the patterns so that the middle of the shelf and backrest coincides with the middle of the pattern. Pay attention to its symmetry!

- On fabrics in a cage or strip   determine whether cells or strips are symmetrical or asymmetrical. If asymmetrical, then lay out patterns in one direction.

On the striped fabrics   Lay out the patterns so that the middle of the shelf and backrest coincides with the middle of the central strip!

Strips should be located symmetrically at the ends of the collar, lapels.

  Layout patterns on the fabric.

Cutting fabric is better on a large table. Fold the fabric in half, face inward, align the edges. So that the fabric does not move during cutting, you can chop it with needles inside the contour of the parts.
  - Lay out the patterns on the wrong side of the fabric, taking into account the direction of the warp threads.
  - First, lay out large parts on the fabric (shelf, back, sleeves), then small parts (cuffs, collars, belt, etc.). Get economical layout patterns on the fabric.
- To the fold of the fabric, place the details that are given on the pattern in half size. After cutting, you get a whole piece.

  Covering the details.

Pin the patterns of parts with needles to the fabric and start overcasting.
  - First circle the long lines, then short and oval. The lines should be straight. You can use rulers and patterns to draw lines precisely and evenly.
  - Smooth, slippery fabrics (silk, chiffon, etc.) can be skewed during trimming and cutting. Be sure to pin them with pins. When tracing part contours, do not press hard on the remnant.
  - After coating the contour of the parts, mark on the fabric the location of the lines of the middle of the part, the line of the half-drift, the location of the first loop, pockets, tucks, folds.
  - Once again check the correct layout and lining and only then proceed to the cutting of the fabric.

  Preparation of parts for sweeping.

After cutting parts, transfer all the contour lines to a symmetrical part. You can use the chalk board and chisel. This is the most convenient way. You can also translate the lines with copy stitches, and then slide the parts apart and cut them between the parts.
  - On the cut details, manually sew stitches along the lines of the middle of the front and the middle of the back, the lines of the chest, waist, hips, and the location of the pockets.
  - The location of the control points (the middle of the neck, the middle of the collar, the control cut at the top of the okat to sew the sleeve into the armhole) is marked with cuts at the seam allowance.

“Preparing fabric for cutting. Cutting products »

Lesson Objectives:

educational -to familiarize students with the various ways of arranging the details of the paper pattern on the fabric; teach students the most economical way to decompose parts; to improve the skills of cutting symmetrical details of the product, taking into account the properties, colors and patterns of the fabric;

developing   - develop logical thinking, hand movement coordination, design and performing skills;

educational   - To cultivate an aesthetic taste, attentiveness, to instill the skills of a work culture and accuracy;

career guidance- to generalize knowledge about the sphere of labor activity, professions, career.

Methodological equipment of the lesson:

1. Material and technical base:

technology cabinet; iron, ironing board; tape, scissors for fabric, pins, needles, square, rulers, crayon or soap; fabric for cutting products.

2. Technical means: a computer with the MS Windows operating system; multimedia projector; screen.

3. Didactic support: presentation; routing for the manufacture of cutting nightgowns, textbooks: "" Technology –7 cells. "" V.D. Simonenko; "" Technology of processing tissue 7-9 cells. "" V.N. Chernyakova,

educational and technical documentation:technological maps; instruction cards;

object of labor:nightshirt.

nodal samples: processing of the neck, processing of the lower cut of the sleeve, the processing of joints with straightening and tightening;

materials for monitoring student knowledge: task cards; Tests

Teaching methods :   explanatory, visual, partially search: explanations with practical reinforcement, introductory briefing and practical work.

Forms of organization of cognitive activity of students :   frontal; individual.

Lesson type :   combined.

Interdisciplinary communications : botany - the importance of plants and conifers in human life; technology 5 cells - types of fibers, the structure of the fabric.

List of references:

Technology - 7 cells - V.D. Simonenko - 2000

Fabric processing technology –7 –9 cells. V.N. Chernyakova - 1999

Labor training - 7 cl.

Extracurricular Reading Literature

You and your profession - M.A. Bendyukov

During the classes

Lesson structure:

I . Organizing time: 2 minutes

II . Verifying students complete homework:   2 minutes

III . Updating student knowledge   3 min

IV 10 minutes

V 5 minutes

VI (10 minutes)

VII . The assimilation of new knowledge. (10 minutes)

VIII . Final briefing. 2 minutes

IX . Cleaning jobs. 1 minute

I . Organizing time: 2 minutes

greeting;

verification of student attendance;

teacher filling in a classroom journal;

checking work clothes and students' readiness for the lesson;

students' mood for work;

bringing the lesson plan to students.

II . Students checking homework : 2 minutes

1. Check the requirements for the preparation of the pattern, the norms for increasing allowances for seams.

2. Check safety rules when working with sharp and cutting tools.

III . Updating students' knowledge:   3 min

Testing knowledge of material from past classes on assignment cards. (Application)

IV . Presentation of new material. 10 minutes

Communication of cognitive information.

Before cutting the product, you need to prepare the fabric for cutting.

Many fabrics have the property of shrinkage. So that the product does not lose its original shape and size during socks, the fabric should be rolled.

Woolen fabrics (paid) are usually rolled through a wet iron (a piece of dense fabric, preferably linen) in the shared direction. In this case, you should not drive the iron for a long time, as the fabric can become the most rigid. Then let the fabric cool and dry.

Single-sided wool and crepe fabrics are moisturized by conventional spraying or spraying. Wrap in a sheet and leave for several hours, after which the fabric is ironed with a not very hot iron from the wrong side along the shared thread.

Staple fabric   and artificial silk is best lowered for 15 minutes in slightly warm salted water, starch, squeeze gently without twisting, then wrap in a sheet for 2-3 hours. The fabric is ironed from the wrong side, not a very hot iron.

Cotton fabric   soaked in warm water, squeezed, dried and ironed.

It should be remembered that some fabrics (wool, velvet, synthetic) can not be moistened, since spots or wrinkles remain on them, which do not disappear even after ironing. Therefore, before decating the fabric, it is necessary to check on a piece how it reacts to moisture.

1. Preparation of fabric for cutting.

Identify the fabric by fibrous composition.

Decant the fabric to prevent subsequent shrinkage.

Determine the direction of the fabric of the shared thread, the front and the wrong side, the direction of the fabric pattern and its nature, in order to take all this into account when laying out patterns. Check for defects.

Iron the fabric.

Bend the fabric along the shared thread in the middle with the front side inward, equalizing the pattern, chop.

Align the cross section of the fabric with a square.

2. The layout of the details of the pattern on the fabric.

When laying out patterns, some properties of the fabric must be taken into account. It is easier to cut from hard, elastic fabrics than from light, loose and moving ones. When laying out, pay special attention to fabrics with one-sided direction of the pattern. Here it is necessary to ensure that on all parts of the product the drawing is directed in one direction. In pile fabrics, check the direction of the pile and the shade. When cutting from velveteen and velvet, the details of the patterns are laid out sequentially in the direction of the pile from bottom to top.

When cutting products from a flannel or bike, place the pattern details in the pile direction from top to bottom, then while wearing the pile will not rise. On the striped and cage fabrics, place the details of the patterns so that at the joints of the parts (at the seams) the strip or cage coincided in color, width and passed exactly in the middle of the shelf and back.

By their size, the cells in the tissues can be small, medium and large. In addition to size, they differ in color, size of squares, width and order of stripes. If in the drawing of a tissue cell you can find the middle line that divides the cell into two equal parts in all directions, such a cellular tissue is called symmetrical.

When cutting the line of symmetry must be combined with the middle line of the pattern.

The layout of patterns on the fabric is carried out in two ways:

in a fold - the fabric is folded twice in length with the front side inward;

in a spread - the fabric is deployed in width.

Lay out large parts on the fabric, starting from the shelf, departing from the cut by the size of the allowance for the seams.

Patterns on fabric with a directed pattern should be in the same direction. If fabric with a large pattern, it is necessary that the right and left sides were symmetrical in pattern

The direction of the warp threads on the pattern should match the direction on the fabric.

Details of the patterns are arranged so that the layout is economical.

The lines along which the cutting will be carried out and the control points are drawn with sharpened chalk or soap.

3. Cut it.

Cut the product details along the lines of allowances for seams.

For the first fitting, cut only large major parts.

V . Consolidation of student knowledge.   5 minutes

Make a layout on graph paper in m 1: 4. Mutual control.

Having chosen a rational layout of patterns, students begin practical work.

Practical work   "" Layout of patterns of details on fabric and cutting "".

Induction training:

Exercise 1.

To study the technology of preparing fabric for cutting.

Task 2.

Prepare the fabric for cutting.

Task 3.

Lay out the details of the pattern on the fabric.

Control.

Are the patterns on the fabric correctly located, taking into account the pattern?

Does the direction of the shared thread on the fabric coincide with its designation on the pattern?

Is the part stroke accurate? Are all control points marked on the fabric?

Are the allowances correct?

Task 4.

Make a cut.

Control.

Are all cut details available?

Are the control points drawn at the waistline?

Are seam allowances uniform?

Is the direction of the shared thread of the fabric indicated.

familiarization with educational and technical documentation.

warning of possible difficulties;

safety briefing when working with scissors, pins.

VI . Independent work of students on FTD. (10 minutes)

1 Current teacher instruction (conducted as students complete their independent work):

2. The formation of new skills:

checking the organization of students' work;

checking the organization of students' workplaces (desktop, tools, devices);

compliance with safety, sanitary and occupational health rules when performing tasks;

VII . The assimilation of new knowledge.   (10 minutes)

Verification of the correct use by students of technical documentation;

instructing on the assignment in accordance with the technological documentation.

Targeted student workarounds:

The first round: instructing students on the implementation of certain operations and tasks;

The second round: focusing students on the most effective techniques for performing operations;

Third round: check the correctness of self-control.

The fourth round: check the correct observance of the technical conditions in the work. To accept and evaluate the work.

To give extra work to the most successful students.

VIII . Final briefing.   2 minutes

1. Securing the studied material.

a) the task of choosing the right sequence.

b) test: Cut.

2. Summarize the work   - a message about the achievement of the objectives of the lesson.

An objective assessment of the results of individual work of students in the lesson;

provide an assessment of the quality of work of each student;

to put marks in the journal and diaries of students.

To note which of the students has achieved excellent quality of work.

To analyze the most characteristic shortcomings in the work of students.

A message about the topic for the next lesson:   preparation of cut parts for processing, preparation of the product for the first fitting.

Homework: Bring: cut, sewing needles, tailor pins, crayon or soap, thread.

c) repeat the technology of processing cut copy stitches.

IX . Cleaning jobs. 1 minute

Presentation