Simple pattern of fleece baby overalls. Pattern of overalls for a newborn with a detailed sewing workshop

For tailoring overalls I needed:

(we are 6.5 months old, but I sewed a jumpsuit of size 74, for growth);
1.2 m of the main fabric (I used raincoat fabric);
1.2 m of fabric for lining (I used fleece as lining fabric);
2 m of insulation (we have cold winters, so I made two layers of double padding polyester);
2 one-piece zippers 50 cm long;
1 cord 80 cm;
elastic cord 1.5 m;
6 clips and 6 lugs for cords.

I supplemented the pattern of overalls with boots and mittens (patterns are given in full size):

I also changed the fringing of the hood and the backing under the zipper (see below)

Step 1. When cutting parts from the main fabric, I made the following allowances for seams (allowances are given in cm)

When cutting the details of the pad, I did all the seam allowances for 1 cm

The zipper substrate was cut out the same way from raincoat fabric and fleece.

Step 2. In the next step, I superimposed the cut parts (both from the main fabric and the lining details) on the synthetic winterizer and cut it exactly along the contour. Each detail turned out to be warmed by a synthetic winterizer. For the convenience of stitching zippers, I did not cut out the substrate under the zipper from the synthetic winterizer, it is better to fill it with the synthetic winterizer then.

Step 3 Since I used a raincoat fabric as the main fabric, and it slides along the synthetic winterizer, it is necessary to sweep all the details from the raincoat fabric along the edge so that the synthetic winterizer does not stray when sewing.

Step 4Now you need to cut off the excess padding polyester on each part.

Step 5 We lay and embroider the folds on the central lower part of the front with a fold, connect this part with the front yoke.

Step 6 We attach fleece strips to the edges of the resulting central front part (where the lightning will be) (the length of the strip is slightly greater than the length of the zipper, width 3.5 -4 cm). I did this for the convenience of inserting a zipper, and then to close the zipper so that heat would not come out of the jumpsuit.

Step 7 Similarly, we attach the same fleece strips to the sides of the front to the edges (where the zipper will be)

Step 8 Now we connect the front sides and the central front part (at the seams that are located below the section for the zipper, in the photo they are marked in red). Here is the result:

Step 9 Scour the cuts for the zipper. In the photo, I put a zipper in the section to show how it will be sewn.

Step 10 We sew back details on the middle seam. I sewed an elastic on the back, stepping back from the edge of the armhole for about 2-2.5 cm. The length of the elastic is 25 cm. Then you can connect the front and back parts of the overalls along the middle seam between the legs.

Step 11 Stitch the sleeves to the front and back parts of the jumpsuit. We turn off the jumpsuit and sew the seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the overalls (with one seam). Unfortunately, I did not take a photo of this stage.

Step 12 Getting to tailoring the hood. We cut out the fringing of the hood (the pattern is given above). I carved it from faux white fur, and I used fleece on the lining.

Step 13 Mark the fringing of the hood.

Step 14 We cut the seam of the hood, embroider a fringe to it (as shown in the photo).

Step 15 We lay the machine seam, but not where we just swept it away, but stepping back from the basting seam about 1.5 cm. This is necessary in order to then insert a lace into this drawer to tighten the hood. You can make the drawstring for the lace in another way, as it will be more convenient for you or as you think will be more rational.

Step 16 Stitch the details of the hood, cut out of fleece. We put the hoods from the main fabric and from the lining, one into the other, with the front side inward (as shown in the photo).

Step 17 We mix the details of the hood along the front cut (in the photo I hold this place with my hand).

Step 18 Then you need to sew this seam (in the photo is shown in red dotted line).

Step 19 We turn the hood and that's what we got.

Step 20 We fold the details of the substrate for the zipper with the sides inward.

Step 21 Stitch the zipper backing. Just do not make a seam at the junction with the neck, we will sew in the hood there (in the photo this place is circled in red).

Step 22 We cut the seam allowance so that it can be carefully turned out.

Step 23 We turn the substrate on the front side and mash the edge.

Step 24 We combine the backing for the zipper with the hood: the front side of the backing - to the front side of the hood, the lining of the hood - to the backing of the backing. We take out the substrate to the hood and shorten it.

The result should be:

Step 25 Now we apply the front side of the hood to the front side of the overalls and wrap them, then shorten them (in the photo the seam is indicated by a red dotted line).

The connection of the hood, the substrate for the zipper and overalls:

Step 26

So the zipper will be sewn:

Step 27 We proceed to grinding the details of the overalls lining. I did not skip the details from the fleece around the edge, since the fleece does not slip over the sintepon.

The grinding algorithm is similar:

1. We connect the front sides and the central front part.
2. We notice cuts for lightning.
3. We sew back details on the middle seam. No need to grind the gum!
4. We connect the front and rear parts of the pad along the middle seam between the legs. Side seams do not need to be sewn yet; they will be sewn along with the sleeve!
5. Stitch the sleeves to the front and back parts of the pad. We turn the lining and sew the seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the lining (one seam).

Here's what happens in this step:

Step 28 On the sleeves and on the trouser legs I made drawstrings for the elastic. To do this, it is necessary to cut strips from the main fabric, the width of the strip is 4-5 cm, to determine the length, measure the length of the cut of the sleeve and leg with a centimeter tape and make an increase for the seam (I hope it was clear, maybe the photo will be more clear). We cut from the sides so that there are neat edges at the drawstring.

Step 29 We draw the wings to the sleeves and trousers.

Step 30 Stitch the side parts of the boots, sew them to the trouser legs of the overalls and attach them.

Step 31We take note and attach the trace.

Step 32

Step 33 We knit and grind mittens.

Step 34 We insert the mittens into the sleeve, sew and grind.

Step 35 We turn out. Here's what we got:

Repeat steps 30-35 for padding the jumpsuit.

Step 36 At this step, the jumpsuit looks like this:

Step 37 We combine the front side of the overalls lining and the front side of the hood lining, wipe them and sew them (in the photo the seam is marked with a red dotted line).

Here's what happened:

Step 38 We connect the front side of the coquette from the main fabric with the front side of the coquette of the pad, wipe and sew.

We turn out. Here's what happened:

Step 39 Insert the lining into the jumpsuit. We make stitches in several places manually, thereby combining the jumpsuit from the main fabric and the lining (the stitches should be free). This is necessary so that the lining does not get off. Be sure to connect the shoes and mittens, the rest is at your discretion, but it is better to connect in several more places, so the lining will be securely fixed in the jumpsuit.

Step 40 We insert the zipper into the incision, attach it to the front of the overalls (we don’t touch the lining yet). It is advisable that the zipper teeth be covered with a cloth.

Step 41 Attaching a zipper. My fabric shifted slightly during the sewing, so the zipper cloves did not completely cover the fabric, although I expected to completely close them. But it’s okay, the lightning pad in this case will save us, it is quite wide, inserted from the inside, so it will block the zipper and will be pressed to it.

Step 42 We notice the lining to the zipper on the wrong side of the overalls (on the one hand, we attach the lining to the zipper, on the other hand to the zipper)

Step 43 We parse the seam of the substrate for the zipper and stuff it with a synthetic winterizer, but not very tight. Then we sew this place with hidden stitches.

Step 44 We insert the lace into the drawstring of the hood, sew the button to the substrates for the zipper.

Attention! Make sure that when the zipper substrates are fastened on the button and the zippers are fastened on the jumpsuit, the yoke should fit snugly on the substrates, otherwise there will be free space and heat will come out of the jumpsuit.

Step 45 We insert the elastic bands into the drawstring on the sleeves and legs (you can insert the laces as you like). They play rather a decorative function.

The jumpsuit is ready!

Daughter in a new jumpsuit!

Workshop on sewing summer overalls for girls.

The jumpsuit is sewn for a daughter, soon 11 years old.
And smartly and the most for the summer.

Sizes: AB -71 cm FROM -56 cm OG -62 cm.

Materials:

1 m of fabric (sooo thick calico) with a width of 150 cm;
sewing threads yellow and blue;
elastic in the drawstring approx. 55 cm;
journal;
paper for a pattern;
a pencil is simple;
scissors;
tailor pins;
4 tips.

The overalls model is taken from the magazine Diana Moden. According to the size table, the pattern was made by age of 8 years. Our sizes coincided with the magazine precisely for this age. Feel free to take a size smaller.
In addition, the pattern is given immediately with 1.5 cm allowances. I was flashing with 1 cm allowances.
At the bottom of the product and at the waist 2.5 cm.

Our size required 1 meter of fabric with a width of 150 cm. Once upon a time, Polinka chose this fabric in the store, but I still could not adapt it, and now, the time has come.

Details:

front bodice
back,
2 pieces front and back halves of shorts,
grind front and back,
shuttlecock 1 pc.,
armhole and shoulder straps - 2 pcs.,
pocket turning 2 pcs.,
pocket 2 pcs.

Overalls for sewing

Cutting parts on fabric

I arranged the details not quite as recommended in the magazine.
The lining of the armholes and straps should be one-piece, for the sake of economy I made the stitching strips in the middle. Do not forget that they should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, this also applies to the top of the front and back.
On the right, I still have a decent piece of material, it will go to the little daughter’s dress, but more on that in another master class.
Also, when laying out, consider the direction of the shared thread.

Jumpsuit Top

Shuttlecock

Shuttlecock - 1 part with a fold is cut separately. The bottom of the shuttlecock can be handled in different ways.

Options: overlay, bend and hem; tuck, tuck and flash. And I just went through a role seam a couple of times.

Put a shuttlecock to the top of the front, sweep or immediately flash, make notches.

Fold the front facing in half inside out; you can steam it for convenience.

We put it on the front side on top of the shuttlecock, pulling, sew. We cut off allowances close to the seam, about 3 mm from the seam.

We bend the grind to the wrong side, sweep. Close up the shuttlecock so as not to hem it accidentally. Firmware.
Neat seam on the front side. In principle, it is not visible under the shuttlecock.

Sew the shuttlecock to the armholes.

We process the back with a grinder as well as before, only without a shuttlecock.

Stitch the side seams of the front and back. I'm right on the carpet. It can be done on a machine, cut the sections on an overlock or on a machine with a zigzag seam.

So. Turn the armhole and straps into one-piece. A seam in the middle of each.

Sew each grind to the armhole, aligning the middle. Do not forget to stretch a little sharpening.
For ease of processing, I sewed a seam on the machine from the edges of 1 cm. This is an allowance, it will be bent along the line inward. You can certainly not do this. But it seemed to me that it was more accurate and faster.
Tuck, sweep, flash immediately and straps.
The ends of the strapless can be tucked inward. I didn’t, because tips were planned for the tips or you could just tie knots.

Pockets

Tuck pockets glued with non-woven, processed the lower sections. Overlaid the details of pockets with the front sides to each other, sewn. I opened the grind to the wrong side, steamed it. Made two parallel lines.
I sewed a line 1 cm from the edge along the contour of the pockets from the edge on the machine.

I noticed a pocket allowance on the inside, steamed.

I put pockets on the details of the front halves of the shorts.
The side and top of the pocket were sewn to the base for the convenience of further processing.
I sewed a pocket in two parallel lines. Basting removed.

Shorts

Sew the front and back halves of the shorts together.
Then sew the middle seam, pulling the step sections slightly.
For reliability, I still went through the machine line.

On the bottom I made a machine line for the convenience of bending the allowance along the bottom of the shorts. Turned up, pinned with needles, hemmed.

Children's jumpsuit - comfortable and beautiful clothes for little explorers! A patch pocket on the front is suitable for storing small finds, and wide legs will not interfere with freedom of movement. Adjustable straps will extend the life of the jumpsuit for several seasons.

We will show how to build a simple pattern and sew a children's jumpsuit with your own hands in just one evening!

Children's jumpsuit: choice of materials

How to sew a jumpsuit with your own hands? Our model can be sewn both from summer, thin fabric, and in a demi-season version - for example, from jeans. For maximum comfort, the upper part of the jumpsuit is made double. The lower fabric is visible on the lapel of the pocket and the fastenings of the frames, in addition, it plays the role of piping along the edge of the strapless, pocket and upper edge of the jumpsuit. Ideal for the bottom fabric - thin cotton.

The color of the fabric should be contrasting or differ by several tones from the facial tissue.

In addition to the fabric, you will need accessories to adjust the strapless jumpsuit. We used a set of a frame with a banner and a simple frame of the same width for each strap. Another option is with buttons. Perform loops on the top of the jumpsuit, and sew buttons on the straps at the required height. In this case, straps need to be sewn with a margin of 5-7 cm in length. You can also buy special fasteners for overalls, both plastic and metal.

To finish the pocket, we sewed a large button to his lapel. Such a pocket can also be decorated with embroidery or applique.

So, let's sew a jumpsuit with your own hands!

We will tell you how to make a pattern of overalls with your own hands, using ready-made trousers or shorts of a suitable size. Prepare a pencil, ruler and scissors, as well as a large sheet of paper. It is most convenient to draw a pattern on graph paper, which is sold both cut into sheets and in a roll. You can also glue several sheets of plain paper, take a newspaper or the remainder of a roll of wallpaper.

Fold the sample in half by placing one leg inside another. Spread the step seam. Circle the outline of the sample on paper: the line of the step seam, the top and the beginning of the side seams. Repeat on the other side of the sheet, straightening the backstitch.

Set aside the required length of the overalls and the desired width from the side seam line from the top line. Make the width loose by adding about 2 cm to the waist and hips.

From the center of the front waist line draw a vertical upward, its length is equal to the desired length of the upper part. Lay to the right half the width of the upper part, it should be less than the width of the chest (the distance between the beginning of the armpits) by 2-3 cm. Draw a smooth lateral line of the upper part, ending it 3 cm above the waist line.

On the back half of the legs draw the same vertical, and then draw the back upper part of the jumpsuit, narrower than the front. Slanted diagonals equal the width of the straps, an average of 3.5-4 cm.

Cut off the top of the overalls from the legs.

Draw the desired pocket outline on the front half. Transfer it to a separate sheet of paper and draw the upper lapel, as shown in the diagram. The height of the lapel is half the height of the pocket itself.

Separately, draw a shoulder strap pattern. Its length can be determined live on the child or measure the length from the waist line of the front to the waist line of the back over the shoulder, and then subtract from there the height of the front and back upper parts of the jumpsuit. Add 10 cm to the resulting value. The width of the strap at the top is 2-2.5 cm, expand the pattern closer to the bottom to 3.5-4 cm.

Cut

FROM BASIC FABRIC

2 details of the front half of the legs
2 details of the back half of the legs
2 straps details
1 pocket detail

FROM ADDITIONAL FABRIC

1 fold upper front part
1 fold upper back part
2 straps details
1 pocket detail
2 parts 5x5 cm (double frame width plus 1 cm)

Working process

Details from the main fabric and additional fabric
Two frames with a banner and two narrow frames
Button, thread, scissors

Stitch side leg seams. Sew over allowances and iron them towards the back. Double stitch.

Stitch step seams, overcast allowances and iron towards the back.

Unscrew one leg on the front side and insert the second one inside, aligning along the central seam. Stitch the central seam, overcast the allowances.

Fold the pocket parts with the front sides and grind, leaving the seam section open. Trim the allowances; in the places of fillet, make triangles.

Turn out a pocket, sweep around the perimeter, slightly bringing up the lower colored fabric. Iron the pocket.

Sew around the perimeter of the pocket. Bend the valve to the front side and fix it by sewing on a button.

Stitch together the straps in pairs from the main and additional fabrics, folding them with the front sides inward. Cut allowances to 5 mm and turn the straps on the front side.

Fold in the rectangular parts for the frames, facing inwards and stitch. Twist, move the seam in the center, iron and stitch.

Insert the frame into the prepared parts, fold in half and sew along the edge.

Stitch the side seams of the upper parts from the main and additional fabrics. Iron allowances to the sides.

Pin or sweep the straps and frames to the top of the main fabric, folding them with their sides inward along the upper edge.

Fold the upper parts from the main and additional fabrics with their faces inward and sew along the entire upper edge. Align and cut the allowances at the fillet points.

Bast the top of the jumpsuit over the top edge. Iron.

Stitch the top of the jumpsuit over the top edge with double stitching.

Stitch the legs to the top, folding them with their faces inward along the waist line. Align the mid-front and back lines and the side seams. Iron allowances up. Tuck the bottom edge of the upper half of the extra fabric and bast it on the allowances, covering them.

Double stitch at the waistline. Stitch the pocket by laying the first line over the existing one, and then completing the second line, as for all finishing seams.

Insert the upper edge of the strap into the frame with the waist, as shown in the photo.

Insert the shoulder strap into the frame sewn to the top of the jumpsuit, as shown in the photo.

Pull the strap up over the waist, allowing access to it. Insert the edge of the strap into the waist and tuck it in, secure it with a pin or bast. Stitch the hem of the strap.

Fold the bottom edge of the legs two times, bast and iron. Sew double stitch.

Children are very fond of winter, because this is the most fabulous time of the year. Morning parties, Christmas trees, gifts, a meeting with the magician Santa Claus, who fulfills the most cherished desires and brings so many goodies - all this is Winter! The first snow transforms nature, dressing cities in white dresses, and so it calls us to go for a walk with our kids, run along the snowy paths, and lie in the soft fluffy snow. Winter games are the funniest! You can ride a sled or ice skate, play snowballs, sculpt a snow woman. And in order not to freeze while walking, you need to dress correctly so that it is warm and comfortable, especially for a child.

We offer you the perfect option for winter clothing - an insulated jumpsuit with a hood. It is soft, comfortable, fastens with a zipper, and reliably protects against frost. And if the cold wind blows, you can put on a protective hood and any frost will be for nothing. In this lesson, you will learn how to build a basic pattern of children's overalls, according to which you can simulate and sew various models for both boys and girls, you just have to make a fantasy!

For calculations and drawing patterns use the measurements of your child. In the lesson we use standard measurements of 28 sizes for a height of 104 cm.

Children's measurements necessary for construction (height 104 cm size 28) (for more details see):

Bust (OG) - 56 cm
Waist (OT) - 53 cm
Hip circumference (OB) - 61 cm
Neck circumference - 28 cm
The length of the front to the waist (Traffic Accident) - 27 cm
Shoulder Length (DPL) - 8.5 cm
The length of the back to the waist (TPA) - 25.5 cm
Armhole depth - 14 cm
Hips - 14 cm
Sleeve length (D) - 36 cm
Wrist circumference - 12.5 cm
Arm circumference at the top - 19.5 cm
The length of the legs from the outside is 63 cm
Leg length on the inside - 45 cm
Knee Height - 35.5 cm

The width of the bottom of the trousers is 32 cm (the value depends on the model and personal preferences and can be increased or decreased)

Merka Seat height calculated as follows: Measure 13 minus Measure 14 \u003d 63-45 \u003d 18 cm. Also measure The seat height can be measured.

Fig. 1. How to take children's measurements

16. Reference measurement of landing depth (Fig. 2) - it is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the back, passing a centimeter tape between the legs, to the jugular cavity along the front. This measure is necessary to control the finished base pattern. For a comfortable fit, the measurement for the pattern should be 3-4 cm more than the taken measurement.

Fig. 2. Measurement of landing depth

IMPORTANT! The increase in freedom of fitting to the Half-circumference of the Chest is selected individually, base the choice of the increase in size, based on the thickness of the fabric and insulation, as well as the desired style of overalls - from 4 to 8 cm. In the presented basic pattern, the increase in size is 8 cm. We will perform all necessary calculations in building process.

Basic pattern of children's overalls - meshing

We begin the construction from the upper left corner of the sheet of paper, put the point A. Grid width: AA1 \u003d ½ exhaust + 8 cm \u003d 56/2 + 8 \u003d 36 cm.

From point A, draw down segment AD \u003d Length of the back to the waist + Leg length on the outside + 6 cm (increase in landing and lapel) \u003d 25.5 + 63 + 6 \u003d 94.5 cm.

From point A1, release the vertical line down, from point D to the right, draw a horizontal line. At the intersection, point D1 is obtained.

Armhole line. AG \u003d Depth of armhole + 1.5 cm (increase) \u003d 14 + 1.5 \u003d 15.5 cm.

Waistline. From point A, lay down the segment AT \u003d DTS + 2 cm (increase) \u003d 25.5 + 2 \u003d 27.5 cm. Draw a horizontal waistline TT1.

The line of the hips. From point T, lay down the length of the TL \u003d 14 cm (the height of the hips by measurement). Draw a horizontal line of the hips, points L1 and L2 are obtained.

Step line. From point T, lay down the length of the vehicle \u003d 18 cm (seat height) + 2 cm (increase in landing) \u003d 20 cm.

Knee line. TK \u003d 35.5 cm. Draw a horizontal dotted line of the knee, points K1 and K2 are obtained.

The bottom line of the trousers. DN \u003d 4 cm (lapel trousers). Draw a horizontal dotted bottom line for the HH1 trousers.

Draw horizontal segments from the marked points - points G1, T1, L1, C1, K1, H1, D1 are obtained.

Side line. Divide GG1 in half (point G2) and vertically through point G2 draw a side line.

Fig. 3. Pattern of children's overalls

Constructing a bodice pattern

Back pattern

The neck of the back. From point A, set aside 1 / 6OSH + 1 cm \u003d 28/6 + 1 \u003d 5.5 cm and 1.5 cm upwards to the right (for all sizes). On the pattern, cut the neckline of the back.

Armhole width. Г3Г4 \u003d Half-circumference of the chest / 4 + 2 cm (increase) \u003d 28.5 / 4 + 2 \u003d 9 cm. From the point Г1 left and right, put off Г2Г3 \u003d Г2Г4 \u003d 4.5 cm (½ Width of the armhole).

Back shoulder line. From point P, lay down 2 cm and draw a short horizontal support line.

Draw a line of the shoulder of the back equal to the Length of the shoulder according to the measure + 1 cm (increase) so that the extreme point of the shoulder lies on the auxiliary horizontal line.

From the lower corner of the armhole, draw a perpendicular 2 cm long. Draw the armhole of the back as shown in the drawing.

Shelf pattern

The rise of the front. From the waistline, put upwards T1A1 \u003d Length of the front to the waist (accident) + 2 cm (increase) \u003d 27 + 2 cm \u003d 29 cm.

Neckline shelves. From point A1 of radius R \u003d 1 / 6ОШ + 1 cm \u003d 28/6 + 1 \u003d 5.5 cm, cut the neck of the shelf.

Spend the length of the shelf shoulder similarly to the shoulder of the back.

Building a pattern of trousers

Front half of trousers

From the point C1, put to the right С1С3 \u003d 1/10 Hips half-circumference + 0.5 cm \u003d 3.1 + 0.5 cm \u003d 3.6 cm. С1С4 \u003d С1С3. Draw the line of bow C3C4 on the pattern.

Connect points C3 and H1 with an auxiliary straight line. Set aside 0.5 cm at right angles from the center of C3H1 and draw a slightly concave seam line.

The bottom line of the front half of the trousers. Н1Н2 \u003d 1/2 The width of the bottom by measurement is 1 cm \u003d 32 / 2-1 \u003d 15 cm. Extend the D1D2 line on each side by 0.3 cm. Draw the arrow line vertically upward from the center of the H1H2 line.

Rear half of trousers

From point C, set CC4 \u003d 1/4 CC2 + 1 cm \u003d 18.25 / 4 + 1 \u003d 5.5 cm to the left. Draw a segment C4L along the curve.

Line arrow. Divide the C4C2 segment in half and draw a line of the arrow as shown in the drawing - the point K4 and H3 is obtained.

The width of the bottom of the front half of the trousers is calculated by the formula: ½ The width of the bottom according to the measure + 1 cm \u003d 32/2 + 1 \u003d 16 + 1 \u003d 17 cm. From the point H3 put aside 8.5 cm left and right. Points H4 and H5 are obtained. Extend D3D4 on each side by 0.3 cm.

Connect the points L2 and H4 - the point K3 is obtained.

Measure the K4K3 segment and postpone the same value from the K4 point to the left: K4K5 \u003d K4K3. Connect the points C4K5, set aside the auxiliary perpendicular 0.7 cm long through the center of the line to the right and draw a slightly concave line along the curve.

On a shelf, build a detail of the stitched strip 3.5 cm wide, re-shoot the detail of the strip on tracing paper separately. On the pattern, designate the width of the drawstring for the elastic.

Sleeve pattern for overalls

Build a sleeve pattern as shown in fig. 4. CC2 \u003d 3/4 Depths of the armhole for the pattern of overalls.

Fig. 4. Pattern sleeves for jumpsuits

Hood pattern

To build a hood pattern for overalls, 2 measurements must be taken: Head circumference and Head height (distance from the joint of the neck with the shoulder to the crown).

Fig. 5. Pattern of a hood for children's overalls

Basic overalls pattern is ready. You can use it without changes, or simulate the style according to your sketch. Details of the cut of the overalls are shown in Fig. 6.

Fig. 6. Details of the cut of the children's hood

And now - a surprise for those craftswomen who completed the lesson completely and read the article to the end! We have prepared for you a basic pattern of overalls for a child 26-28 sizes (height 104 cm) in full size and you! We wish you colorful ideas, bright models and a fabulously fun winter!

To build a pattern drawing, take the following measurements.

Half neck circumference.

Half chest circumference.

Half hips.

The length of the back to the waistline.

Shoulder length.

The width of the back.

The length of the sleeve.

The length of the trousers on the side.

The length of the trousers to the knee.

Seat height.

Build a drawing.

Back and front halves.

Jumpsuit Length. On the left side of the sheet, draw a vertical line on which you postpone the measurement of the length of the back plus the measurement of the length of the pants plus 4 cm and put points A and N.

From points A and H to the right, draw horizontal lines.

Overalls Width. From point A to the right, postpone the measure of chest circumference (Og) divided by 2 plus 8 cm and put point B. From point B, lower the perpendicular to the lower horizontal line, mark the intersection point with H1.

Back length to waistline. From point A down, postpone the measurement of the length of the back to the waist line plus 2 cm and put point T. From point T, draw a horizontal line to the right until it intersects with the BH1 line, mark the intersection point as T1.

Seat height. From point T down, postpone the measurement of the height of the seat plus 2 cm and put point W. From point W, draw a horizontal line to the right, the point of intersection with the line BH1, mark Ш1.

Hip line. From point W upward, set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the height of the seat and put point B. From point B, draw a horizontal line to the right, mark the point of its intersection with line BH1 B1.

Knee line. From point T down, postpone the measurement of the length of the trousers to the knee, plus 1 cm and put the point K. From point K, draw a horizontal line to the right, mark the point of its intersection with the line BH1 K1.

Back width. From point A to the right, postpone the measurement of the width of the back divided by 2 plus 1.8 cm and put the point A1.

Armhole Width. From point A1 to the right, postpone ¼ measurements of the half-circumference of the chest plus 1.8 cm and put the point A2. From points A1 and A2, draw down the vertical lines.

Neckline of the back. From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-measure plus 1 cm and put point A3. From point A3, restore the perpendicular upwards, on which put aside 1/10 of the neck half-measure plus 1 cm and put the point A4. Divide the angle AA3A4 in half, from point A3 along the line of dividing the angle, set aside 1/10 of the neck half-measure and set point A5.

Connect the points A4, A5, A with a smooth line.

Shoulder section of the back. From point A1, down, lay 2 cm for normal shoulders, 1.5 cm for high, 2.5 cm for sloping and put point P. Connect points A4 and P with a straight line, on which from point A4 put aside the measure of shoulder width plus 1.6 cm for tucking plus 0.5 cm for landing and set point P1.

From point A4, line A4 P1, set aside 4 cm and put point O. From point O, draw a vertical line on which lay 6 cm and put point cO1. From point O on line A4P1, set aside 1.6 cm and put point O2. Connect the points O1 and O2. From the point O1 along this line, set aside the length of the segment OO1 and put the point O3. Connect the points O3 and P1 with a straight line.

Backhole armhole depth. From point P down, set aside груди measurements of half-circumference of the chest plus 7 cm and put point G. Through point G, draw a horizontal line, the point of its intersection with the line AH, designate G1, with the line limiting the width of the armhole, G2, with the line BH1 - G3.

Armhole line of the back. From point G up, set aside 1/3 of the length of the PG segment plus 1 cm and put the point P2.

Divide the angle G of the armhole in half, from the point G along the line of dividing the angle, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.9 cm and put the point P3.

The width of the armhole - segment GG2 - divide in half and put the point G4. Connect the points P1, P2, P3, G4 with a smooth line.

Front armhole depth. From point G3 up, set aside ½ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 4.5 cm and put point B1. From point G3 up, set aside ½ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 4.5 cm and put point B1. From the point G2 upward, set aside the length of the segment G3B1 and put the point B2. Connect points B1 and B2 with a straight line.

Neckline. From point B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-neck measurement plus 1 cm and put point B3.

From point B1 down, set aside 1/3 of the half-neck measurement plus 2 cm and put point B4.

Connect points B3 and B4 with a dashed line, divide it in half. Connect the point of cherishing with a dashed line with point B1. From point B1 along this line, set aside 1/3 of the neck circumference plus 1.5 cm and put point B5.

Connect points B3, B5, B4 with a smooth line.

Auxiliary points for the design of the front line. From point G2 up, set aside ¼

measure the half-circumference of the chest plus 6 cm and put the point P4.

From point G2 upward, set aside 1/3 of the length of the segment G2P4 and put the point P5.

Divide the angle P5G2G4 in half, from the point G2 along the line of dividing the angle, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.6 cm and put the point P6.

Shoulder section of the front. From point B3, through point P4, draw a straight line. On this line from point B3, postpone the measurement of the length of the shoulder and put point P7.

Front armhole line. Connect the points P7, P5, P6, G4 with a smooth line.

Side cut of the upper part of the overalls. From point G4 lower the perpendicular to

hH1 line. The points of its intersection with the lines of the waist, hips, seat height, knee and the lower horizontal line are designated T2, B2, Sh2, K2 and H2. Point B2 ends the line of lateral sections of the top, below is an auxiliary line for constructing sections of the trouser section.

Front cut line. From point Ш1 to the right, draw a horizontal line on which from point Ш1 put aside 1/10 of the measurements of the half-circumference of the hips plus 0.5 cm and put the point Ш3.

From point Ш1 up, postpone the same segment and put point Ш4. Connect points Ш3 and Ш4 with a dashed line, divide it in half. From the point of division, restore down the perpendicular on which to postpone 0.3 cm. Connect points B1, 0.3, W3 with a smooth line.

Fold line. Divide the Ш2Ш3 line in half, mark the division point with Ш5. Draw a vertical line through point W5. The points of its intersection with the lines of the waist, hips, knee and lower horizontal mark T3, B3, K3, H3.

Bottom line of the front half of the jumpsuit. From point H3 left and right, set aside ½ of the width of the bottom of the trousers minus 1 cm and put the points H4 and H5.

From the point H3 up, set aside 0.5 cm and connect the resulting point in straight lines with points H4 and H5.

Side cut of the front half. Connect points B2 and H4 with a straight line.

Step cut front half. Connect points Ш3 and Н5 with a dashed line, divide this line in half. From the point of division to the left, restore the perpendicular, set aside 1-2 cm on it and connect the resulting line with a smooth line with points Ш3 Н5.

Auxiliary point for the design of the mid-cut line. From point W to the left on a horizontal line, set aside 1/10 of the thigh half-girth measurements plus 0.5 cm and set point W6.

The fold line of the back half. Divide the Ш6Ш2 line in half, mark the division point with Ш7. Draw point Vertical line through point W7. The intersection points of this line with the lines of the waist, hips, knee and lower horizontal mark T4, B4, K4, H6.

Step line extension. From point Ш6 to the left on a horizontal line, set aside 1/10 of the measurements of the half-circumference of the hips plus 2.5 cm and put the point Ш8.

The bottom line of the rear half. From point H6 to the left and to the right, put aside 1/2 measure of the width of the bottom of the trousers 1 cm and put the points H7 and H8. Set aside 0.5 cm from point H6 down and connect the resulting point with straight lines to points H7 and H8.

Side cut back half. Connect points B2 and H8 with a straight line. The intersection point of this line with the knee line is designated K5.

Knee Width. From the point K4 to the left, postpone the length of the segment K4K5 and put the point K6.

Step cut back half. Connect point K6 with a straight line with point H7 and dashed with point W8. From point Ш8 down the dashed line, set aside 1 cm and put the point Ш9. Divide the segment Ш9К6 in half, from the point of division to the right, restore the perpendicular on which you postpone 0.5 cm. Connect the resulting point with a smooth line with points Ш9 and К6.

Mid-cut line. Connect the points T and W9 with a smooth concave line.

The construction of the sleeve.

Length. On the left side of the sheet, draw a vertical line on which to lay off a measure of the length of the sleeve and put points A and H. From these points, draw horizontal lines to the right.

Width. From point A to the right, postpone the width of the armhole from the drawing of the overalls, multiplied by 3, minus 1 cm and put point B. From point B, lower the perpendicular to the lower horizontal line, mark the intersection point H1.

Okat height. From point A downward, set aside ¾ of the depth of the armhole of the back and put point O. From point O, draw a horizontal line to the right, and point it at the intersection of it with line BH1 O1.

Okat line. Divide the OO1 line into six equal parts, mark the division points O2, O3, O4, O5, O6. From these points, draw vertical lines upward, and point the intersection with the line AB, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5.

From point O2 up, set aside 1/3 of the height of the eyelid minus 0.5 cm and put points A7 and A8.

From point O6 up, set aside 1/6 of the height of the okat and put point A9.

Connect the points O, A6, A7, A3, A8, A9, O1 with a smooth line.

Bottom line. Continue down the A3O4 line, mark its intersection with the HH1 line as H2. From point H to the right, set aside 2-3 cm and put point H3. Divide the H3H2 segment in half, postpone 0.5 cm from the division point down and connect the resulting point with a smooth line with the points H3 and H2. Set aside 2-3 cm from point H1 to the left and put point H4. Divide the H4H2 segment in half, postpone 0.5 cm from the division point upwards and connect the resulting point with a smooth line with the H4 points and H2.

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